South of the Colorful Clouds — The Longer You Stay, the More You Want to Retreat (A Tour of Dali, Lijiang, and Xishuangbanna)
The first time I came to Yunnan was in April 2013. Back then, I was still a carefree, naive youth. I spent a leisurely month in Dali Ancient Town, which gave me my earliest daydreams about Yunnan. The second time was in December 2019. By then I seemed to be a young man who had seen the ways of the world, its warmth and its indifference. I hiked for days deep in the mountains of Yubeng village in Shangri-La, giving me a deeper understanding of Yunnan. The third time, in August 2020, I was a little uncle already in my thirties, a bit more at ease. I wandered for nearly two weeks through ancient towns like Dali, Lijiang, and Xishuangbanna, and developed an inexplicable, stubborn attachment to Yunnan. (Here’s the travelogue of the Shangri-La Yubeng trek: https://you.ctrip.com/travels/xianggelila106/3921865.html?isAuthor=true)
Luckily, on the day we went to Xizhou, it cleared up beautifully. I wanted to go running through these rice paddies.
Xishuangbanna’s night market really is a must every single day. I loved it too much.
If you come to Yunnan during the rainy season, you’ll have to take a Zen-like attitude toward blue skies and white clouds, so choose your travel time wisely. During the two weeks I was here, I really saw very few moments of wide-open blue sky. Especially those days in Lijiang, it rained for days on end, making it hard to venture far, so I had to make do with wandering around the ancient town. In Xishuangbanna, just as I was strolling through the night market, a sudden downpour would send me hurrying back.
【Dali Ancient Town】A few days of pure blankness
As soon as I arrived in Dali Ancient Town this time and passed by Erhai Gate, I started sighing. It’s really changed so much, almost unrecognizable. Back in 2013, the area around Erhai Gate was basically nothing, very open and empty. Now it’s a bustling market, and the shops around it are doing lively business. That pleasant feeling of taking a stroll after a meal back then — I’m afraid it can’t be found again.
As for what they sell at the Erhai Gate market, apart from some ethnic costumes, special snacks, and handmade souvenirs, there’s not much else. It’s just that a friend of mine would often patronize a little flower shop. In Dali, if you have fake flowers at home or in your shop, it’s almost disrespectful to the place. The natural ecology here is so beautiful, and lovely flowers are everywhere. With a little care in arranging them, there’s naturally no need for those lifeless fakes.
Walking from Erhai Gate along Renmin Road, all the way toward Cangshan Mountain, has always been my favorite way to explore the ancient town. Renmin Road is the busiest and most vibrant main street in the town, lined on both sides with all kinds of unique shops. After a few years away, the lower stretch that was originally a bit quiet is now noisy, with lots of tourists. The shops along both sides are mainly inns, restaurants, and souvenir stores.
The upper stretch is still as bustling as ever. I always just hurry past and leave – that’s where tourists gather most, especially with Foreigner Street right beside it. Back then, that was a lively bar strip. Actually, there are quite a few bars on both sides of Renmin Road. Especially at dusk, when the resident singers start performing, they add a layer of artsy mood and weathered sentiment to the ancient town’s already bustling human vibes.
I remember in Dali those years back, apart from these tie-dye products, the most commonly seen things around the ancient town were simple linen and cotton clothes. When I came again this year, I found those clothes were nowhere to be seen, replaced mostly by tie-dye garments priced from 69 to 399 yuan. Back then, I never tired of wearing those simple clothes, even pairing them with a bamboo basket on my back and riding a bike to roam around the ancient town and its surroundings.
Actually, Dali Ancient Town isn’t big, but it isn’t small either. After walking around a lot, you realize there are only so many places to go. Yet walking from Erhai Gate to the North Gate can take quite a while. The deep courtyards branching off from various lanes might often bring you pleasant surprises. So if you want to experience a quieter ancient town, just wander a little away from the main streets into the side alleys. Here you might stumble upon a favorite café, a tasty restaurant, or an inn.
Speaking of staying in the ancient town, selfishly, the reason for me was to have a spot where I could quietly watch the clouds gather and drift over Cangshan Mountain. Every day, every moment, the clouds on the mountain are unpredictable and ever-changing — you never tire of watching them. Though it’s the rainy season, admittedly, the clouds over the mountain never exactly spread out, and you rarely see sunlight streaming down through the clouds. Still, that doesn’t affect how much I enjoy this state of mind. When your mood is right, you’re content.
Actually, there’s another place very worth visiting near the ancient town, but you have to leave the town itself. That’s Sanyue Street. Dali’s Sanyue Street is a traditional festival with a thousand-year history, and also an ancient and prosperous trade market in western Yunnan. Back then I especially loved coming here to hunt for things — clothes, snacks, souvenirs, all here. It’s even livelier during festivals, though now it seems gradually taken over by various food restaurants. The days I was there actually coincided with the Torch Festival, but because of the pandemic, the events here were cancelled. Still, under the memorial archway, there were many stalls selling torches.
A bit farther from the ancient town, Dali University is also worth a visit. When I was there, it was still closed because of the pandemic; it should be open now with school in session, and tourists are allowed in now. But outside the campus, there’s one rather surprising spot, which I specifically found online beforehand. Since Dali University sits at the foot of Cangshan Mountain, the terrain is high. Outside the campus there’s a straight road leading toward Erhai Lake without any obstructions. Standing at a high vantage point, you can even see Erhai in the distance. This road normally has little traffic, so I indulged myself a bit, taking photos right in the middle of it.
【Life in the Ancient Town】Leisurely delights – food and coffee
The days I spent in the ancient town, I basically woke up naturally, had a brunch, then went back to rest or found a café to sit in. In the evening, I’d see where I could have dinner, maybe a little drink — really very easygoing.
When choosing my lodging, I said I absolutely had to find an inn with a rooftop terrace where I could see Cangshan Mountain views. So I booked this Jimu Inn. Though I was still a bit fooled by the inn’s photos — the seating area shown on the rooftop actually isn’t accessible to people — but it did have its own rooftop.
Besides the rooftop, the inn also has its own café, with 20% off for guests. So without going far, I could sit quietly with a cup of coffee. Because the inn is away from the main streets, it’s very quiet day to day, plus there’s an Akita dog, a Scottish Fold blue cat, and a farm cat, so this was my daily enjoyment.
Waking up naturally in the ancient town, I’d want to find a place for brunch and a coffee. I mainly went to two places. Actually, it’s not easy to wake up naturally — haha, sometimes I really sleep in quite late. Chaimiduo is one of the rare restaurants in the ancient town with its own standalone courtyard. It’s a great spot for a date, breakfast, or afternoon tea.
Chaimiduo actually also has a farm, a farmers' market, a B&B, and so on, advocating a lifestyle themed around farming. So the restaurant’s ingredients come directly from the farm. The atmosphere is comfortable, with its own courtyard; the walls are covered with bougainvillea, which glows beautifully in the sunlight. If it feels too sunny, there are plenty of seats indoors and on the second floor. Most customers are families with children and young couples. Try to arrive early, or you’ll have to wait for a table.
There’s a wide variety of dishes to choose from, focusing on healthy fare. I ordered a Farmer’s Breakfast. Other recommendations: Farm Big Salad, creamy mushroom soup, rosemary grilled steak, vegetable salad, various Western dishes, and more.
Fly Me to the Moon is another highly rated Western-style restaurant in the ancient town. Although it’s small inside, the portions are large — a good spot for brunch in Dali Ancient Town.
It’s a standalone little building with seating upstairs and downstairs. But it rained the day I went, so the outdoor second-floor seats were closed. There are also outdoor seats on the first floor, quite pleasant like a café. The indoor seating, however, is a bit cramped because the bar, kitchen, and aisle make the space feel tight.
I recommend the French-style baked eggs! Unfortunately, they were already sold out when I arrived that day — there were many customers. Since the wait was long, I ordered a burger and my friend got an American breakfast. The portions were really generous, especially my burger — I didn’t know how to take a bite, and barely finished it after a long while. Per person spend: 60 yuan. Location: No. 74 Guangwu Road, Dali Ancient Town, Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province. It’s in a side alley off the main ancient town street, a quieter spot that’s not hard to find, perfect for quietly enjoying yourself. By the way! This restaurant is closed on Wednesdays!
Actually, life in the ancient town basically means going out in the morning and evening; the afternoon sun is strong and I didn’t feel like going out. Though the streets get a bit less crowded in the afternoon, so if I really wanted to go out, I’d just find a café, sit, browse my phone, and watch the people passing by. Right across from Chaimiduo is a highly rated little café called Elephant Café. Every time I roamed the ancient town, I’d pass by it. Then on a slightly sunnier day, I decided to visit. The front door seats happened to be empty, so I sat down, sipped coffee, and watched the tourists come and go. I also noticed a foreigner sitting next to me — I seemed to have seen him sitting here when I passed by days before, as if he’s a regular.
Next to Elephant Café, during the day, you might also come across a mobile motorcycle coffee stand — very cool.
What’s a bit annoying, though, is that the ancient town happened to choose this month to repair and maintain some old houses. So the building housing Elephant Café was surrounded by steel bars and draped with green safety nets, slightly affecting the visual feel. Another internet-famous café also suffered from this, making it impossible to fully appreciate its advantage: Dawandao Café. Dawandao Café is known for its view of Cangshan Mountain, which attracts people to visit. Yet because of the renovations, the originally clean, crisp window view of Cangshan has been blocked by steel bars.
But apart from the view, this café leans toward a retro, artsy vibe — very comfortable overall. Even the barista’s style and clothing fit the café’s atmosphere perfectly. Beside the bar, there are also clothes for sale, mostly women’s wear. Though it’s usually a rather popular café in Dali Ancient Town, surprisingly there weren’t many customers in the afternoon, probably due to the renovations. The café is located on the 4th floor of a residential building at an intersection of Renmin Road. If you’re just passing by, you’d basically never discover it; you’d have to search online for the address to find it.
If you really want a café where you can see the Cangshan view, then Tang·Ka is the one. Tang·Ka is a coffee-themed inn, tucked deep in an alley off Renmin Road, quite convenient. The first-floor entrance directly faces the bar, and the walls are covered with award certificates, so the coffee is clearly professional. Friends with a discerning palate for coffee would probably find a brew they like here.
The second-floor seating is also fresh and comfortable, filled with various green plants and flowers, and there are window seats facing the Cangshan view — a hotly contested seating area.
But most attractive is the open-air rooftop terrace! The view is broad, overlooking Dali Ancient Town and Cangshan Mountain. The whole layout is like a little garden, cute and exquisite. Too bad it was raining the day I went, so it wasn’t ideal to sit outside; I could only take photos for memory’s sake.
Oh, and downstairs at Dawandao Café, at the intersection on Renmin Road, there’s a little stall that’s unassuming yet hard to ignore. It’s said to be one of the top-rated authentic snacks in the ancient town — xidoufen (pea porridge). The stall is simple: just a cart, a basin, a pot, a small table, a few stools, and the granny herself. She sells only one pot each day, and when it’s gone, she packs up. Usually on good-weather, good-business days, she might pack up as early as 10-something. The day I went was rainy, probably tourists weren’t out much. Passing by after 11 a.m., I found granny still there and couldn’t resist buying a bowl to try.
Xidoufen is a summer snack in Yunnan, made by grinding white peas into powder and cooking them into a thin porridge. The texture is very refreshing, mildly sweet without being cloying, served warm with plenty of youtiao (fried dough sticks) on top. The best way to eat is dipping the youtiao into the pea porridge — so sticky-good! While eating, I chatted with granny, who didn’t know how late she’d have to stay today. Slightly grumbling, she told me, ‘This rain today, wonder if I can sell out…’ She said she’s been running this stall for 30 years, that she was here before I was even born, then broke into a hearty laugh.
If you want to eat some Yunnan-style local cuisine inside the ancient town, I tried a few myself that I found decent and can tell you about. But the recommended dishes here don’t differ much, like braised chicken, ‘water sprite’ (a local aquatic plant), omelets, free-range chicken, potatoes, etc. This one is Jīn Jī Fandian (Golden Chicken Restaurant), tucked in an alley off Renmin Road, easy to find and well-ranked. The atmosphere is comfortable, with many scenic seats, though overall not many spots, so during peak hours you might wait a bit. The second floor seems to be a bar, which gets noisy later.
There’s another one I found more authentic in flavor, called A Wang Private Kitchen. Especially their braised pork belly was really flavorful and chewy; after finishing a portion, I wanted more. Mostly large tables, good for families. But it’s not easy to find, maybe that’s why customers aren’t super many.
After staying in the ancient town for a while, you can actually get a bit tired of the food. So later, when I really didn’t know what to eat, I chose an Apó Là Páigǔ (Granny’s Preserved Ribs), a Lijiang specialty. There are several branches in the ancient town, with spacious interiors and many tourists. It’s a must-try local specialty. You can order a rib pot, or mix ribs, chicken, and trotters.
Then there’s this stone-plate barbecue. I don’t quite get it — I’m not sure when it emerged as a Bai ethnic delicacy. It’s everywhere in Dali! Back in 2013, I really don’t remember seeing this kind of restaurant. It’s basically grilled meat, but the grill itself seems to be made of some kind of stone slab. At night, these places are unbelievably lively, packed with diners! Out of curiosity, I tried one. But being alone, I really couldn’t eat much. Consider Lǎo Yújiā (Old Fisherman’s), which has several branches in the ancient town. Every night, the wait is super long. When indoor seats fill up, they set tables outside. If you ask whether it’s really that delicious… I didn’t have big feelings about it. After all, grilled meat or barbecue, how different can it be? Probably people come more for the ‘specialty’ and the ‘vibe’.
After meals and drinks, as night falls, the ancient town begins to throng with people. Renmin Road gradually gets crowded. Those artsy little bars start soliciting business, and resident singers take the stage, singing soul-stirring songs. Of course, the ancient town’s bars include both quiet ones and rowdy ones. The rowdy ones usually feature a whole band, playing rock or pop. Personally, I prefer quieter bars, and definitely those with outdoor seating.
Sitting outside, sipping a small drink — I don’t know whether the tourists are looking at me or I’m looking at tourists; anyway, we’re all passersby amusing ourselves. Listening to a girl in the bar strumming and singing some artsy tunes or current viral internet songs, I’d get drawn in for a moment, then snapped right out. But ah… the drinks in these ancient town bars are really not cheap... they rival prices in first-tier city bars! This left me a bit baffled. Some bars may have a minimum spend, requiring a fee to order, so to attract customers, a few loudly hawk ‘no minimum spend, free song requests!’
After wining and dining, listening to the band perform is actually pretty pleasant. But if you asked whether I came for the drinks or the music, the drinks probably account for more. Yet it seems many in the bars are long-stay or resident people in Dali Ancient Town. Their enthusiasm was more dedicated to the singers — lively interactions, cheerful sing-alongs — which made me feel truly like a tourist.
【Erhai Lake】It’s truly so calming
This trip around Erhai Lake was actually rather scattered, I’d call it go-with-the-flow. Normally, a standard itinerary starts from Dali Ancient Town and goes clockwise along the lake ring road for 1–2 days by car. If you have more time, you can stay overnight in a favorite village. If you rent a small car, one day circling the lake is plenty. Since I was alone, even though I really wanted to rent a cool pink convertible to cheer myself up, driving alone wouldn’t allow me to see much outside, so forget it. Actually, riding an e-scooter is freer because the West Ring Road passes through many ancient villages that cars can’t enter, while the East Ring Road is smooth for driving but parking isn’t convenient. The limitation of an e-scooter is that you can’t go too far. My itinerary suits solo wanderers with flexible time, no set plan. Though I didn’t complete the full loop, I felt very satisfied! The route: Dali Airport – Wase Town – Shuanglang – Haidong Town – Dali Ancient Town – Caicun Wharf – Xizhou – Dali Ancient Town. Below, I’ll list the scattered photo spots I encountered along the self-driving route, and describe the other ancient towns separately. There are many online guides for cycling around the lake, with fairly intuitive sightseeing maps.
The section along the West Ring Road, this trip, I really didn’t like. Too many stretches were under repair, so most parts were impassable. I don’t know how long it will take to finish. Though this allowed weaving through various ancient villages, it was way too time-consuming and inconvenient. Might as well do what many do: directly hire a three-wheeled cart to hit the seaside spots near the ancient town. I suppose this road work is for more convenient self-driving in the future — I saw an artificial boardwalk being built along the road. But the West Ring Road surrounds many old villages, which come with living atmospheres and farmland too.
I originally hoped to ride along the road from the ancient town all the way to Xizhou, and indeed stumbled upon many beautiful scenes along the way. Strangely, it didn’t remind me of the landscapes from my cycling trip back then — and back then I was even riding a bicycle!
Part of the West Ring Road features some spots worth checking out, but because of the roadwork, I couldn’t see many of them, such as Shuāngyuān Xī (Double Mandarin Duck Creek), Mǎjiǔyì Village, Gallery Bridge, etc. While searching for passable paths, I chanced upon a few eye-catching landscapes. Probably most tourists head straight to Xizhou, so I hardly encountered any other tourists the entire ride.
Anyway, I can’t recall how long I stubbornly persisted. Indeed, a stretch of the West Ring Road was under repair yet still open to vehicles, so I could still get close to Erhai’s scenery. What I often saw were branches of lakeside trees striking their own poses, carefree.
Unexpectedly, I also came across a lovely couple taking wedding photos.
So compared to the West Ring Road, I much preferred the East Ring Road this time. If you’re not starting from the ancient town, I’d suggest beginning from Shuanglang, or like me, from Wase Town. Ride a little scooter and loop along the western shore of Erhai — it definitely won’t disappoint. Every time I glimpsed the broad Cangshan mountain views accompanied by thick clouds, a refreshing, cheerful blue, and the breeze ruffling my hair, a surge of impulse would well up inside: I want to retreat to the hills here! I love this kind of ease so much!
Near the East Ring Road, there are actually some ancient villages right by Erhai Lake. Some have large stone signboards, some have archways characteristic of the Bai nationality — not hard to spot.
I never expected to encounter such a large patch of lotus flowers by Erhai Lake — no wonder this place is called Lotus Bend. Coming here by bike, I naturally couldn’t resist stopping, even though it wasn’t the peak lotus blooming season, there were still quite a few flowers. Since there’s an old village right next to it, villagers with nothing to do in the afternoon sit by the lake, under the trees, smoking and chatting.
I was just thirsty, so I bought a bottle of water at a small shop. Nearby, a few Bai elderly women were chatting about family matters; I went closer to listen but couldn’t understand. Seeing me, the granny suddenly changed topic and pointed to the grapes on the fridge, recommending them: they’re homegrown, no pesticides, sweet and delicious. Seeing I had no intention to buy, she warmly offered me a taste, saying they’re really good!
I don’t remember where, but I saw this little house with a graffiti-covered wall right by Erhai Lake. Beside it, a path led down to the lakeside, so I parked to take a look. The beauty of riding a small scooter is you can stop anytime, and no matter how long you stop, you don’t worry someone will take it. The local folks are honest, and they don’t lack your scooter, so it’s reassuring. For cars, though, there aren’t many parking spots nearby, so you can only glance and pass by.
Unlike the East Ring Road, the West Ring Road has many cliffside stretches and more curves, so be very careful when driving. Riding up and down a few slopes, I felt like I was about to fly — so happy! Mountain views, lakescapes, and sky merging in one frame gave me a truly new understanding of Erhai, a different sensation, adding an extra dose of fondness.
There really are many lakeside views around Erhai that don’t have official names, but if you observe carefully you might find surprising seaside scenes. That’s also why I love riding a small scooter around Erhai: moderate speed, and the freedom to play as you please.
【Wase Town】A great starting point
This time, upon arriving in Dali Ancient Town, I headed straight for a lakeside inn in Wase Town, planning to start with an Erhai bike ride. Choosing Wase Town as the starting point, I really found it excellent. The surrounding area has gradually developed, yet it isn’t as noisy and crowded as already hot spots like Shuanglang, the ancient town, or Caicun Wharf. Dining, drinking, and entertainment options are quite comprehensive. Besides, for rental, you can even get the scooter delivered to the inn around Dali — incredibly convenient! And around Wase Town, spending a day riding the East Ring Road is very fulfilling. Northward, you can reach Shuanglang Ancient Town; southward, Luoquan Peninsula. Not only are the expansive Erhai vistas stunning, but you also see plenty of sights worth photographing.【Little Putuo Island】When I first heard this name, I really didn’t think it fit Dali. Little Putuo Island is a fairly well-known attraction on the western side of Erhai Lake. Its shape resembles a golden seal floating on the water, and it somewhat looks like South Sea Putuo in Zhejiang, hence the name. On the island stands a pavilion. Looking from afar, it seems very cute, small and exquisite, with incense smoke wafting around it amid mountains, water, and clouds — truly like a fairyland.
There are small boats to the island, but I think viewing it from a distance is enough; it’s not necessary to go ashore. About Little Putuo Island, besides the island itself, what I also like is this stretch of land where it’s located. There’s a village beside it, sitting at the foot of the mountain. The long corridor built along the coast feels wonderful to walk on. With the mountain-village scenery as backdrop and Little Putuo Island in front, it evokes that sense of distance between the mortal world and a divine realm.
Riding from Wase Town toward Shuanglang, you occasionally pass through an area of old forest by the lake, with no specific scenic name, but there are many tourists, couples taking wedding photos, and local residents resting — indeed a spot worth lingering for a while.
What I liked even more was a nearby grassland full of abandoned boats. The iron-hulled boats, rusted with patina, I don’t know why they were abandoned here, but they are all intact, probably to be reused later.
Not far away there’s another pretty famous spot. Its real fame actually came later, after some travel photography masters captured it so beautifully that it gradually went viral. So not only tourists but also local travel photographers love bringing clients here for photos. However, the photogenic spots are all down by the lake at the foot of the mountain, while the road is up on the mountain. You have to park by the roadside and follow the trails others have trod down the slope — be very careful, it’s extremely rugged! If you’re afraid of missing it, really, just look for where a ton of vehicles are parked and people are taking photos — that’s it. Since there’s no parking lot, everyone parks on the roadside, so parking is tough, especially when it’s crowded.
What’s worth photographing here? Basically, at the foot of these extended cliffs, there are some small caves. You stand at the cave entrance while the photographer shoots from inside the cave. But honestly, it’s so difficult. Those are barely small caves; they can only squeeze in one person huddled inside. And to take a good shot, you definitely need an ultra-wide-angle lens! Plus, there are queues of travel photographers, so it’s really tough — I decisively gave up! Look at all these people; you know they’re all waiting to take photos here.
Then there’s another spot: a remaining abandoned house that wasn’t completely demolished, leaving behind ruins. The other ruined buildings aren’t much, but this particular wall with a hollowed-out window forms a natural picture frame. The scenery is completely natural; you just need to pose beautifully within the frame. Hats off to the photographer who discovered this place! So here, too, people line up, each wanting to capture a few stunning shots. Only one person can go up at a time, and some travel photographers, being business, take especially long. Seeing so many waiting there — sorry, I gave up again!
South of Wase Town, at the southeastern corner of Erhai Lake, sits an attraction called Luoquan Peninsula. Surrounded by water on three sides with gorgeous scenery, it conveniently faces Dali Ancient Town across the lake, making it a prime spot for admiring Cangshan and Erhai. There’s also a wharf here with boats commuting to Caicun Wharf. So if you’re going to Dali Ancient Town, it’s another way, though most tourists come from Caicun Wharf to visit Luoquan Peninsula.
Unfortunately, rainy-season travel really depends on luck with the weather. I had been pretty glad it wasn’t raining, but then it suddenly drizzled for a while here, the wind picked up at the wharf, and I temporarily found shelter to rest.
I didn’t enter the scenic area proper, but beside the cliff outside, apparently to attract tourists for photos, they created an artificial spot, and even here you have to buy a 20-yuan ticket! But Lover’s Cliff and these truly abandoned boats were quite beautiful.
After that, something magical happened. Luoquan Peninsula has its own ticket booth, tickets 45 yuan each. I thought it was a bit pricey and didn’t plan to enter. But I bought the wharf ticket, finished shooting, and was just strolling around when somehow I wandered right into the Luoquan Peninsula scenic area. It seems I did pass a ticket check near the wharf, but there was no one there… So I ended up seeing a 45-yuan attraction for 20 yuan. Walking from the wharf up the hill, I passed the main gate ticket check (already past the checkpoint) and actually felt a bit guilty, worrying they’d notice I wasn’t familiar and ask to see my ticket…
The two large pagoda structures here are Luoquan Pagoda and Tianjing Pavilion. The current Luoquan Pagoda was rebuilt in 2010, retaining the original pagoda’s two key features: ‘square dense eaves’ and ‘no top.’ The circular base implies ‘outer roundness, inner squareness.’ Inside, there’s an elevator and two staircases leading straight to the top. The current Tianjing Pavilion, rebuilt in 1996, has five stories, a revolving-corridor multi-eave mountain-style building with upturned eaves and brackets, the corners soaring into the sky. The pavilion is lofty and spacious, offering an even wider view when you climb high.
【Xizhou】Wanting to run through these green fields
Among the ancient towns surrounding Erhai Lake, besides Dali Ancient Town, my favorite is still Xizhou! Actually, Xizhou Ancient Town itself is somewhat similar to Shuanglang and Dali Ancient Town, with mostly specialty shops, food stalls, etc.
Xizhou Ancient Town can only be explored on foot. If self-driving, there are parking lots nearby; there are direct buses from the ancient town, or you can hire a car. Xizhou is dotted with many quaint Bai-style buildings. Beside the rice paddies stands an old mansion with a yellow wall, set against the paddies and blue sky — incredibly beautiful! One wall even deliberately retains a black-and-white photo of the ancient town from years ago, adding more texture.
When it comes to the most photo-worthy spot in Xizhou Ancient Town, everyone will definitely say it’s the rice paddies! This vast stretch of paddies in Xizhou is just too photogenic! In spring and summer, it’s a vibrant green vitality; in golden autumn, it’s a sea of golden rice waves — both gorgeous! During peak season, tourists are many, but luckily there are many small paths in the paddies, so you can avoid other visitors.
Inside the ancient town, there’s also the famous Corner Tower, originally the old residence of Yang Ruxuan, a villager from North Chengbei Village. It’s the most unique historical building in terms of structure and form among Xizhou Ancient Town’s residential architecture. So it attracts huge crowds for photos; added to the fact that vehicles pass along the road right in front, it’s even more chaotic, so it’s best to go during off-peak times.
Of course, in Xizhou, you must try the local snacks! Xizhou Posu Baba is a renowned savory/sweet pastry, pleasing to the eye and palate, and one piece is quite filling. You can also try cold chicken rice noodles, pea jelly, and more.
【Zhoucheng】Making myself a tie-dye scarf
About twenty kilometers from Dali Ancient Town, and a twenty-minute bike ride from Xizhou, lies a tie-dye hometown called Zhoucheng. There’s a tie-dye museum here where you can learn about the actual production process of a piece of tie-dye fabric, buy your favorite tie-dye items like tablecloths, scarves, clothes, handkerchiefs, etc., or follow a Bai elderly woman to make your own tie-dye piece. I made myself a tie-dye scarf. The prices of tie-dye products here are actually on the expensive side; decide carefully before purchasing. The experience of making a tie-dye scarf costs 120 yuan. You can also choose T-shirts, tablecloths, etc.
After paying the fee, the granny first takes you to choose a pattern you like. Once chosen, she’ll lightly mark the pattern with water-based lines on the cloth. Then you follow the granny in threading the needle — she’ll teach you how. Of course, as a beginner, your speed won’t match hers, so to finish faster, she’ll also do the other side for you.
After threading, you need to tie and knot the patterned areas. The design I mainly chose was a lucky flower pattern. The scarf is really large, so the granny took the initiative to add a few small flower knots in the blank spaces for decoration. After all, the grannies are elderly Bai women; their Mandarin isn’t great. While teaching me, they chatted and even complimented my clothes. Busy with the needle and thread, I could also hear her humming a little tune.
After tying, it’s dyeing. You can choose the depth of color you like. I chose a regular indigo blue. When it came out of the dye vat, I was surprised — is this the color I picked? Why so green! After multiple dips and wringing, when it came out, I was stunned — how did it suddenly turn into such a beautiful blue!
After taking it out, you untie the threads. Don’t worry about dye staining your hands; it washes off easily. The grannies have been doing tie-dye for decades, that’s why their hands have a faint blue tint. Untying is actually relaxing; I was full of anticipation. When the final thread was removed and the entire scarf unfolded, every flower pattern was a delightful surprise — I absolutely adored it!!!
【Shuanglang】Honestly, I didn’t fall in love
Shuanglang is pretty much a must-visit recommendation when you come to Dali, because all the lake-view hotels online constantly lure friends to come for photos. I remember when I first came in 2013, Shuanglang was still an obscure ancient town just starting renovations. Over a few years, Shuanglang’s reputation soared, and hordes of tourists flocked here, yet it left me somewhat disappointed… Riding a small scooter from Wase Town, enjoying Erhai’s scenery along the way, my mood was truly relaxed. But as I approached the entrance of Shuanglang Ancient Town Scenic Area, a long traffic jam immediately began to irritate me. Because car rental in Dali is becoming easier and more photogenic, more and more people are self-driving around Erhai. The entrance of Shuanglang Ancient Town Scenic Area practically abuts the ring road; the road isn’t wide, parking lots are few and small, so whenever crowds gather, a jam is guaranteed here.
Shuanglang Ancient Town Scenic Area — there are just too many tourists! Because the scenic area’s terrain is long and narrow, basically there’s only one main artery branching into various scenic spots. In many areas, you see scenes of people squeezing together, which I dared not imagine, so I wasn’t in the mood to take photos. Only when I reached the more spacious Minzu Street could I feel a bit more comfortable.
Along the road are all modern buildings and shops. Suddenly seeing a local elderly woman felt so out of place…
There’s a Nanzhao Style Island here, reachable by ferry from the ancient town. The waterfront street here is also a commercial zone; many tourists make it noisy, making me want to hurry away…
The most common food in Shuanglang Ancient Town is probably wild mushroom hotpot. Friends coming to Yunnan must try it at least once. The legends about ‘poisonous’ mushrooms have been heard more than once or twice; many hope to see little figures after eating — haha. But I saved this chance for Lijiang. Other common sights: grilled dairy fan, fried potato, Yunnan small coffee, local fruits, etc. As for specialty shops, many sell silver jewelry, handicrafts, tea, and so on. How shall I say… nothing caught my eye.
Of course, the more everyday life definitely lies in the heart of Shuanglang Ancient Town. After seeing the scenic area, I was turned away, so I just hopped back on my scooter and returned to Wase Town…
【Lakeview Inn】How to choose Erhai accommodation
Falling in love with Erhai must start from an inn — one where you can sit staring blankly at Erhai Lake, a beautiful lake-view inn perfect for photos, which will absolutely boost your happiness on an Erhai trip. How to choose an inn: see if it has these features:
1. Lake-view rooms, observation decks, and any spot where you can quietly gaze at the lake. Since you’re staying by Erhai, without the lake view, it would be much less appealing. In peak season, popular lake-view inns are really hard to book, especially those rooms where you can draw the curtains and directly face the lake view — truly beloved!
2. Instagram-worthy photo elements, complimentary travel photography. Many inns around Erhai have their own rooftops, often setting up trending photo spots. All those trending Erhai photo elements surely include ‘sky mirror,’ glass balls, infinity pools, etc., producing stunning shots. So at that point, what else besides the trending photo spots? Services. The few places I stayed all had their own travel photographers who could take photos for you, but you needed to book in advance; the quickest would give you the raw files on the same day. If you need more shoots, you could also request other spots at the inn, and they could process them — just extra money.
3. Specialty cuisine. Local Yunnan specialties. Because some inn locations make it hard to find good restaurants nearby, having lake-view rooms plus lake-view restaurants and local cuisine is definitely more tempting! Yunnan local dishes like fried eggs, ‘water sprite’ (plant), and free-range chicken hotpot — usually booking a meal package online comes with discounts.
4. Rental service. After all, the best way to explore Erhai is renting a vehicle to circle the lake. You can rent e-bikes or cute-colored convertible mini cars, whatever you like. Prices are about the same everywhere; you can also book online in advance.
【Lijiang Ancient Town】The drizzly mood is quite comfortable
During those days in Dali, luckily only one or two days had whole-day rain; mostly it rained in the morning and cleared in the afternoon, typical of Yunnan’s rainy season. I originally hoped my days in Lijiang would also be like that. But unexpectedly, aside from the first arrival day without rain, the following days were continuous overcast, rainy weather. Even temperatures dropped considerably; wearing a jacket I still felt cold. So my original plan to sign up for a day tour to nearby spots was also chilled away. This time in Lijiang, I only wandered inside Dayan Ancient Town for a few days.
Just like in Dali Ancient Town, I said I must also stay in an inn with a panoramic view of Lijiang! Actually, there are quite a few in the ancient town. But what I want to tell you is, in Lijiang Ancient Town, when booking lodging, make sure to choose an inn close to the entrance. Otherwise, dragging your suitcase, you’ll lose the mood to explore as soon as you arrive. Lijiang Ancient Town has too many uphill and downhill slopes, and the roads are mostly flagstone and brick, very hard to walk. When I wandered, I often encountered tourists grumbling as they walked…
The streets inside Lijiang Ancient Town are built along mountains and water, with various attractions such as Sifang Street, Mu’s Mansion, Wufeng Tower, Black Dragon Pool, Wenchang Palace, etc. The ancient town also features colorful local ethnic customs and entertainment activities: Naxi ancient music, Dongba rituals, divination culture, ancient town bars, and the Naxi Torch Festival, among others. In Lijiang Ancient Town, you often see displays of Dongba cultural script, pictographs that are both interesting and very distinctive. It also seemed like the Torch Festival had just passed; I saw every household with fiery red door couplets, the characters written in that Dongba script.
If we compare the layouts of Dali Ancient Town and Lijiang Ancient Town, they’re a bit like Beijing and Shanghai. Lijiang Ancient Town’s architecture embodies the achievements of ancient Chinese urban construction, differing from buildings elsewhere in Yunnan, and is one of the distinctive and stylish types among Chinese dwellings. The Sifang Street area is the most bustling section in the ancient town, filled with all kinds of shops, bars, snacks, etc.
Indeed, the ancient town has many distinctive souvenir shops, though some coffee, hand drums, yak meat, etc., you might also encounter elsewhere. I randomly came across a phone case shop. I quite liked this somewhat flirty, folk-style phone case, also because my own phone case broke when I was in Dali, so I wanted a more locally flavored one. Each design has different patterns; this one I got seems to be a lucky flower pattern, priced at 39 yuan, not expensive.
This Dongba Paper Workshop has several branches in Lijiang. I was drawn in by the hanging lamps, all made from handmade paper. But I felt they weren’t convenient to carry. I asked if they had an online Taobao shop and was told they only have physical stores, so I had to pass on such lamps.
Speaking of Lijiang Ancient Town, there are quite a few popular photo spots worth visiting. Actually, as long as it’s an ancient-style building paired with colorful decorations, it’s already beautiful. Near Dayan Flower Alley, there’s a street that somewhat resembles the feel of ‘Spirited Away,’ also similar to Jiufen Old Street in Taiwan. The colorful lanterns hanging here have the Dongba script I mentioned earlier, making it even more distinctly Lijiang!
There’s also a street like this, hung with oil-paper umbrellas of various colors and patterns — my favorite street in Lijiang Ancient Town. Both sides have specialty shops. Actually, there aren’t as many tourists on this street as on the main street, so it’s suitable for a slow walk and quiet photos. Every umbrella hanging above has a unique pattern; I really wanted to buy one to take home as a souvenir.
At night, Lijiang Ancient Town is completely different. I deliberately started from this street again to search for that unique charm of Lijiang Ancient Town. As expected, at night, the tourists increased, as if everyone planned to go out and explore the ancient town at night. The already lively Lijiang Ancient Town grew even noisier at night, with the continuous rising and falling of hawking, tourists’ chatter and laughter, and bar singing all mixed together — this is what Lijiang Ancient Town should look like.
Lijiang Ancient Town is actually still a bit crowded, because every street and alley is narrow. Plus, with rain, everyone carried umbrellas, making walking feel even more congested. If you want to find a spot in the ancient town, you really have to rely on navigation, otherwise you simply can’t find it. These twisty old streets are so easy to get lost in, with not many signs, leaving you clueless. Only after walking a lot do some sections become familiar.
Actually, long ago my understanding of Lijiang came from online reviews. Back then, I heard Lijiang was a place where romantic encounters happened easily, because the bars here are suitable for meeting someone. Yet many reviews also said Lijiang was overly commercialized, especially the bar culture making Lijiang Ancient Town too noisy. Of course, everyone’s preferences for Lijiang differ.
So after experiencing Lijiang myself this time, honestly, I was still quite shocked by the bar culture here. Different from Dali, where most bars are quiet ones with lots of acoustic singing, in Lijiang Ancient Town I passed a bar street near Sifang Street that left me dumbfounded. Many can hardly be called bars — more like discos! I thought, is Lijiang Ancient Town this ‘trendy’? Scared, scared; not a single one made me want to go inside and look...
To be honest, regarding Lijiang, I don’t have the same love as for Dali. It turns out I do love the simple, natural feel of Cangshan and Erhai more. But there are really many places worth visiting around Lijiang Ancient Town, and they’re very beautiful, like Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lugu Lake, etc. I imagine they’d be even more wonderful next time under clear, boundless skies — a tiny bit of anticipation.
During the days I wandered the ancient town, I deliberately sought out some local specialties, flipping through various guides, but saw few that I truly loved. After all, I wasn’t that interested in some outside restaurant chains, and I’d already eaten most of Yunnan’s local signature dishes by then… When I checked in, the innkeeper lady highly recommended this Er Ge Rice Noodles. I searched online and found it’s actually ranked the #1 rice noodle in the ancient town. After settling my luggage, I went directly. Actually, by the time I reached the restaurant, it was already around 1:30 p.m., yet the crowd waiting at the door really startled me — still so many! One online review was particularly awkward: compared to an empty noodle shop opposite, you realize how insanely popular Er Ge is! Holding my number for one person, I waited half an hour before getting seated.
You order and pay at the cashier first, then take a seat. I ordered all the shop’s signature dishes — even eating alone, I insisted on this stubbornness! A crispy pork flatbread, a bowl of chicken broth rice noodles, and a braised pork trotter, all must-order specialties. The crispy pork flatbread is actually like a Chinese meat sandwich, but the bread is both flaky and thick. The braised pork trotter was really excellent, melt-in-your-mouth collagen, though a bit salty eaten alone. The chicken broth rice noodles were indeed very savory; it’s best with local sauces to make it even tastier!
Didn’t I already eat Granny’s Preserved Ribs once in Dali? As expected, I really didn’t know what to eat. Later, in Lijiang, I ate preserved ribs for several more meals… Actually, it’s not exactly a food series I personally love, but it’s a local specialty, and there are hordes of people waiting at meal times!
Forgive me for only mentioning now: When in Yunnan, you absolutely must eat mushroom hotpot! It’s truly everywhere. From Dali Ancient Town to Shuanglang Ancient Town, I finally had it in Lijiang Ancient Town! Before eating, I fantasized whether I’d get poisoned and hallucinate, but because they’re all cultivated mushrooms, that effect won’t happen. Though the flavor is relatively mild, it’s genuinely nourishing! Many mushrooms in my mouth, I didn’t even know which kind they were; some I’d genuinely never seen before. And this shop’s mushroom hotpot, served in such a rustic metal pot, definitely has character.
Later, a friend also recommended a local Yunnan-cuisine restaurant. The atmosphere was indeed quite cozy. I really liked the yak meat and crispy rice I ordered. The crispy-coated tofu is also a famous snack here.
Because of the rain, I didn’t want to just stay in the inn, so I thought I’d sit in a café. So I found this N’s Kitchen, mainly because I saw an incredible and super-cheap coffee: Korean viral ‘400-beat coffee,’ which the owner strongly recommended. The café’s location is also convenient, with a second-floor window seat overlooking the ancient town.
This 400-beat coffee is basically caramel foam coffee. The so-called 400 beats mean the owner hand-whisks it 400 times. It’s easy to make: mix coffee powder, sugar, and hot water in a 1:1:1 ratio, then hand-whisk 400 times until it turns into a foam texture. Then you can add it on top of hot water, milk, or black coffee as you like; here they simply put it over milk. Just tasting the coffee foam on top, it’s a bit bitterly sweet. Better to stir it into the milk before drinking. Those who don’t like sweet coffee should avoid it.
【Xishuangbanna】Must visit this night market every day
Finally, finally, I arrived in Xishuangbanna! This Yunnan trip, actually, apart from revisiting Dali from years past, was specifically to see this uniquely ethnic Xishuangbanna. It seems this year it even got a boost from the show ‘Back to Field.’ Xishuangbanna itself is already a very popular travel destination, bordering Laos and Myanmar, and close to Thailand and Vietnam, so it’s truly full of exotic charm. Although this time I mainly stayed in Jinghong City inside Xishuangbanna for a few days, I was really, really satisfied. Especially the night market here — I’d come every night and stroll for a long time!
In Gaozhuang, Jinghong City, there are three connected night markets: the Starlight Night Market, Ganbai Street Night Market, and Six Nations Water Market. Truly, you can browse to your heart’s content! And the night market is right next to the Big Golden Pagoda Temple, looking so beautiful alongside the pagoda! As dusk falls, traffic around the Big Golden Pagoda Temple gradually gets congested, and tourists flock to the temple area — a sign that the night market has begun.
But after wandering a while, you realize what the night market offers mostly falls into a few categories: specialty handicrafts, barbecue, coffee, fruit, cold tossed dishes, ethnic costumes, folk performances, bars, etc. That actually seems like quite a lot… haha! Every few steps, you’ll see another stall for various things, but the barbecue stalls are basically lined up in a row!
The coffee here in Xishuangbanna mostly features Lao coffee, on the sweet side, and magically, it’s first packed in a plastic bag then in a paper bag. At 15–18 yuan a bag, you can literally drink it all day — so much and such a good deal!
Guess what this ice cream is! It’s Moutai-flavored!
The lovely ladies running stalls, especially those selling Dai-style cold tossed dishes, mostly wear ethnic attire — beautiful and unique. Every time they pound and mix, many tourists gather around. As for the taste, I haven’t actually tried it, but things like cold shredded green papaya are indeed a Xishuangbanna specialty snack!
Whether the night market barbecue is good or not, the general verdict is… pricey and mediocre… So you decide! If you really want barbecue, I think the street stalls outside are all pretty good!
Many people say that once you come to Xishuangbanna, you can eat your fill of fruit! Look at this: any box of fruit is only 10 yuan each. I bought two big boxes and ate while walking — really awesome!
Beside the Ganbai Night Market, there’s a bridge along the riverbank that leads to the Six Nations Water Market, another marketplace with strong exotic and ethnic flavor. However, what’s sold is somewhat similar to the night market, but more of it consists of newer, more foreign souvenirs. Still, experiencing the atmosphere is quite nice. You can also take a boat tour from the dock.
Probably because of the pandemic, many waterfront shops weren’t open; a few clearly looked permanently closed. The liveliness was absolutely no match for the night market. By the way! If you visit the night market, you’ll find near the entrance or inside, many tourists dressed in Dai costumes having photo shoots! It really does look very beautiful. I don’t know the exact prices, but there are just so many photo studios! I was also curious: why are they all girls — no boys wearing them for photos!
【Banna Charm】Dai-style captivates the heart
Actually, on our first day arriving in Xishuangbanna, we were lucky — it was a sunny, clear-skied day! Though hot, my mood felt bright and refreshing. The heart that had been affected by continuous rain in Lijiang finally lightened a lot! The vast blue sky and white clouds, plus the Dai-style architecture, really made me feel I was in Southeast Asia! Truly, it’s been too long since I’ve been abroad, so my heart was greatly satisfied. Around Jinghong, there are many attractions worth visiting, but since I’m not very interested in nature parks, wild elephants, and such, and the night market I longed for is only open at night, during the day I pondered where to go!
One place was the Big Golden Pagoda Temple, a must-pass spot on the way to the night market every day. It looks somewhat similar to Yangon’s Shwedagon Pagoda, one of the nine pagodas of Gaozhuang Xishuangjing (meaning ‘Nine Pagodas, Twelve Cities’). Inside this pagoda brimming with religious atmosphere, every step is bathed in Buddhist culture. The plaza in front of the pagoda is vast, and there are worshippers prostrating devoutly. The air is filled with the scent of Buddhist art, perhaps also because of the incense.
When you look at the smaller temples beside it, it really feels a bit like Chiang Mai. The red-brick pagoda temples are adorned with gold, and the eaves are carved with intricate patterns. The pagoda towers extremely high, looking up is so spectacular, instantly giving a sacred feeling. The sacred dragon statues flanking the stairs are also exquisitely carved, every scale shining, designed in varied styles and colors — absolutely gorgeous.
Before the night market starts, there are actually very few tourists in the temple. The ones you might meet more often are, as mentioned, travelers in Dai attire taking photos.
When night falls and the pagoda’s lights come on, mingling with the deep blue sky, it makes the pagoda appear even more sacred and mysterious!
Another attraction I visited in Xishuangbanna is Manting Park. Manting Park showcases three main themes: ‘Dai royal culture, Buddhist culture, and Dai folk culture.’ It’s also the oldest park in Xishuangbanna. The Dai people customarily call it ‘Chunhuan,’ meaning ‘Garden of the Soul.’ It was once the royal garden of the king of Xishuangbanna, a place where feudal lords and chieftains admired flowers during Dai history.
Actually, many people come to Manting Park mainly for the evening bonfire party! It’s a cultural performance with strong ethnic characteristics, blending the cultures of six countries along the Lancang-Mekong River: China, Laos, Myanmar, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam, and also includes folk performances of six ethnic minorities living in Xishuangbanna: Dai, Jino, Blang, Lahu, Yao, and Hani. The theater building is so magnificent and splendid — I think it’s an astonishing structure within Manting Park!
Inside the park, there are both naturally formed landscapes and cultivated exotic flowers and garden architecture, making it not only sightworthy but very pleasant to stroll. You can also row a boat on the lake; a gentle breeze makes it even more delightful.
The park also features the sacred Manxi Longsun Pagoda, a white pagoda already weathered by time, yet still exuding the devotion of countless worshippers — a very beautiful pagoda. Next to it sits a statue of the Earth Goddess, symbolizing stable life, abundant wealth, safety, and fulfillment of wishes. Spring water still trickles gently, nourishing visitors.
What I found most enchanting is the Zongfo Temple (General Buddhist Temple), the center of Buddhist pilgrimage in Xishuangbanna. The temple covers about 1,100 square meters. Main buildings include the main hall called ‘Weihan’ in Dai language, a Buddhist academy teaching building, monks’ dormitories ‘Hongnuan,’ and the unfinished ‘Bosu’ (Lotus Apex Buddhist Pavilion).
When you truly approach the temple, you still feel that majesty and holiness. In the center stands a golden Buddha statue, with guardian deities on both sides. The temple is a brick-and-wood structure; at the center of the roof ridge sit three small pagodas, forming the highest point of the hall. Above the door hangs a plaque reading ‘Xishuangbanna Zongfo Temple.’ Tourists can enter the temple to worship and pray, but photography is not allowed inside. The hall floor is covered with rubber mats and carpets; you must remove your shoes to enter. Monks are chanting inside. Tourists can buy a bracelet and ask a monk to consecrate it on the spot. Believers should definitely get one consecrated right there!
The park also features the exquisite Jingzhen Octagonal Gallery Bridge. Beside the park is Manting Dai Village. Together, they form a three-in-one recreational spot: park, village, and temple. To attract family visitors, there are also hands-on experiences like papermaking and pottery. Further in, there’s an Elephant Culture Park, where you can see parrots, peacocks, elephants, etc., watch elephant shows, and get up close with elephants for play or photos.
【Banna Cuisine】Dai-style deliciousness, unforgettable
Let me tell you, when you come to Xishuangbanna, you absolutely must eat their grilled fish and grilled chicken. The Dai-style restaurants everywhere feature all kinds of grilled items as their main dishes! The grilled chicken is fragrant, tender, and crispy — the aroma conquers you the moment it’s served! Especially freshly grilled chicken, absolutely delicious! For grilled fish, it’s not just about tender fish meat but also the right blend of seasonings. You can pair them with fried eggs, pineapple rice, porcini mushrooms, etc. Anyway, the taste is really fantastic!
Then, diagonally opposite Manting Park, I found a hand-grabbed rice place. It’s magical — the name on the review site is Yanhonghan Dai Xiang Hand-Grabbed Rice, but we searched for ages; it was right nearby yet we couldn’t see it. Turns out their sign had gone through who-knows-how-many updates and no longer showed that name. Even the old adhesive remnants pointed to another name… The hand-grabbed rice set for two was quite affordable: pineapple rice in the middle, with rice, vegetables, cucumber, free-range chicken, shrimp chips, and pork belly around it. But what shocked me most was the houttuynia (fish-mint root) wood ear salad… I honestly couldn’t stomach it!
In the night market, you might often see meat-filled rolls being sold. They look a lot like rice noodle rolls. Lots of stalls make them fresh. The one we found seemed to be rather famous around the night market. Their spokesperson was actually their kid! As soon as we arrived, we heard the child constantly asking, ‘Large or small bowl?’ — asking about coconut jelly, refreshing and delicious. The owner lady also highly recommended it!
In the end, what I patronized most in Xishuangbanna was still coffee. Actually, local coffee is truly everywhere: night markets, cafés — all basically selling the same coffee. The first time, not knowing better, I directly searched online for a fairly famous coffee shop called Guixiang· Lao Ice Coffee. The café is actually very small, with few indoor seats; the other four or five tables are all outdoors, but indeed it’s still quite hot.
Buying online had special deals. Besides coffee, I saw a local dessert called Paoluda. Out of curiosity, I ordered a cup. Turns out it’s coconut milk sago with chunks of bread — soak the bread in the coconut milk and eat it; it’s definitely more like a dessert.
Looking back over these two weeks, the Yunnan cuisine I experienced mainly revolves around just a few representative dishes from each place. After a few days, it can feel a bit repetitive. When you want to try something new, it’s not easy to find what truly hits the spot. But things like coffee and desserts can be seen everywhere in every ancient town. Of course, the most distinctive is still Xishuangbanna!
【Travel Tips】Leave a message if you have questions~
My actual itinerary went like this; you can adjust according to your own plans:
Day 1: Shanghai – Dali – Wase Town
Day 2: Wase Town – Little Putuo Island – Shuanglang – Luwo Mountain (East Erhai Ring Road)
Day 3: Wase Town – Haidong Town – Luoquan Peninsula
Day 4: Wase Town – Dali Ancient Town
Day 5–6: Dali Ancient Town
Day 7: Dali Ancient Town – Caicun Wharf – West Erhai Road – Xizhou – Zhoucheng
Day 8: Dali – Lijiang Ancient Town
Day 9–10: Lijiang Ancient Town
Day 11: Lijiang Ancient Town – Xishuangbanna – Night market
Day 12–13: Xishuangbanna
Day 14: Xishuangbanna – Shanghai
Tips before and during the trip:
1. Because it’s the rainy season, temperatures can still be quite cool on rainy days; remember to bring a long-sleeved shirt or hoodie.
2. UV rays in Yunnan are intense; no matter if it’s sunny or not, apply sunscreen diligently. When cycling around Erhai, it’s best to wear a sun-protective jacket or sleeves.
3. When renting a vehicle to circle the lake, be very careful about safety. Every day I hear stories of people driving cars into the lake…
4. In Xishuangbanna, I recommend staying in Gaozhuang, Jinghong. Hotels generally offer free shuttle rides to and from the night market.
5. Hotels in Xishuangbanna may offer discounts on tickets, chartered car tours, etc.
