Lijiang: Finally Meeting, Knowing, and Bonding with You
The hotel has quite a few communal spaces, all cleverly designed. I especially loved this reading and relaxation spot (pictured below); I could easily sit there for hours.
I stayed in a family suite, which was quite spacious with clearly defined functional areas. There was also a loft on the second floor with a small bed for a child, which was incredibly convenient.
Lijiang Old Town has a magical soothing effect on me. As soon as I step inside, the pressure from my busy life instantly vanishes, and I feel completely relaxed.
My hotel was near the South Gate of Dayan Old Town. There's a reason I chose it: it nicely avoids the bustle of the old town, allowing me to enjoy a quiet holiday. I slept in until almost dusk before venturing out to wander the ancient town. In June, Lijiang hadn't yet hit peak tourist season, so the streets were relatively quiet—just how I think Lijiang Old Town should be.
I strolled over to Sifang Street to soak up the livelier side of the old town. Sifang Street is the heart of Dayan Old Town and its most bustling area; the famous bar street is right nearby.
The closer I got to Sifang Street, the more tourists I saw. As evening approached and the UV rays weakened, many guests who had been hiding in their hotels also came out to wander. Near Yuhe Square, a food haven, the crowds were particularly dense.
I adore the street food in Lijiang Old Town. Though a bit pricier than outside, it always looks so appetizing. However, after many trips to Yunnan, I still haven't acquired a taste for all the insects here.
Sifang Street truly lives up to its reputation as the liveliest spot in the old town. No matter the season, it's always bustling with crowds. Funny thing is, despite visiting so many times, I've never once stepped into a bar here.
You don't need to go into the Lion Hill scenic area to enjoy the night view. I think the best spots are the inns right at the entrance; some have viewing decks with absolutely breathtaking vistas. However, these inns require a purchase to enjoy the view. Although many have signs saying 'free to visit,' as soon as you walk in, the staff will chase after you to order something—really annoying. If you don't want to spend money, you can glance and leave, but if you want to take photos, they'll charge 5 to 20 yuan. The inns with the best views are expensive, typically 5 to 15 times as much as elsewhere. If you're okay with that, ordering a drink and sitting there for an hour or two is wonderful, especially at dusk—it's a real treat.
Once night had fully fallen, I slowly descended the stone-paved path. Lijiang Old Town is at its most atmospheric at this time. I wandered back from Sifang Street to near the South Gate, transitioning from bustle to calm. That was my first day in Lijiang.
Arriving at Shuhe Ancient Town, I loved the vibe. Strolling around with friends, eating, drinking, and just relaxing—here you can listen to music while dining or sipping tea, and even catch a performance while drinking. I truly felt like I was savoring the good life. I think when I'm tired in the future, I'll come back here, either with friends or on my own!
I quite liked it. The service was excellent, and the flavors were decent—not greasy or overly seasoned. I was about to order à la carte, but the waiter recommended a set meal, which gave us an extra dish at a lower price, and the napkins were clearly free—kudos to the service! The small pot rice was fragrant, with crispy fried potatoes and such, but not oily. The grilled fish was fried to a nice crunch, fragrant and crispy, very pleasant; my husband thought it lacked freshness. The tofu was a highlight for me—so tender; it was my first time trying Baijiang tofu (crispy outside, soft inside). Water spinach ('watery yanghua') is a local Yunnan specialty; I finally got to taste it. The cold-tossed version was okay, with an interesting, expected flavor.
The 'Lijiang Eternal Love' scenic area is located in Lijiang New Town, about seven kilometers from Dayan Old Town. Created by 'Songcheng Performance,' it's a cultural tourism attraction. Lijiang originated and flourished because of the Ancient Tea Horse Road, but over time, this route has lost its former significance. However, people haven't forgotten its history; the Eternal Love scenic area has built a living 'Tea Horse Ancient City.'
Adjacent to Wenbi Lake and facing the distant Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, the scenic area is themed around Lijiang's traditional ethnic culture. Its centerpiece is the large-scale song and dance performance 'Lijiang Eternal Love,' touted as a must-see in a lifetime. It vividly showcases Lijiang's millennia-old ethnic culture and historical charm, offering a great window into the past.
The scenic area is packed with things to see; I'll spend the whole day here. It includes Tea Horse Ancient Street, Nacuo Lake, Snow Mountain Beach, various Yunnan ethnic minority villages, Eternal Love Square, and a large indoor tech-themed entertainment complex. There are also two major shows: the indoor performance 'Lijiang Eternal Love' mentioned earlier, and the open-air live performance 'Lijiang Love Song'.
As soon as I entered, I came across the show 'Comic Capture of Liu Yidao' at Mabang Square. Although June is not peak season, the scenic area was already packed. The show was humorous, blending traditional elements with modern flair—I loved it.
Many visitors don't know what to do at Lijiang Eternal Love and just leave after seeing one show, but there's so much more. From 2 p.m. to 9 p.m., there's a continuous schedule of performances. So the first thing you should do upon entering is get a show schedule from the staff, which clearly lists the times and locations of all performances.
The scenic area has many shows, including the so-called 'Top Ten Performances.' Besides 'Lijiang Eternal Love' and 'Lijiang Love Song,' there are 'Mufu's Son-in-Law Recruitment,' 'Climbing the Flower Tower,' 'Time-Travel Flash Mob,' 'Comic Capture of Liu Yidao,' 'Fengya Pavilion,' 'Climbing Knives and Diving into Flames,' 'Hanging by a Thread,' 'Mufu Troop Parade,' and more. After watching 'Comic Capture of Liu Yidao,' I went to see 'Climbing Knives and Diving into Flames'—thrilling, right? But the crowd was so huge I got pushed to the back.
'Mufu's Son-in-Law Recruitment' was a show I was really looking forward to, mainly because I figured the female lead would be a beauty. So when the time came, I rushed to Mabang Square to wait. The show wasn't long, but I particularly enjoyed this type of performance that blends with history.
Mu Mansion is the common name for the ancient ruling Mu family's government office. The Mu clan governed Lijiang for over 400 years, leaving a profound mark on its history. Locals say, 'If you haven't visited Mu Mansion, you haven't really been to Lijiang.' The architecture throughout the Eternal Love scenic area is distinctive, harmoniously blending traditional and modern elements.
Lijiang Love Song Paradise is a section within the Eternal Love area. It's China's highest-altitude amusement park and requires a separate ticket, but it's more cost-effective to buy a combo ticket that covers the Eternal Love scenic area, Love Song Paradise, and both shows 'Lijiang Eternal Love' and 'Lijiang Love Song'—good value. Inside the park are many thrilling rides, like the giant frisbee, flying chair, drop tower, wave swinger, and log flume—a paradise for thrill-seekers.
When I reached Love Song Paradise, I happened upon people on the giant frisbee—the biggest one I've ever seen, and it looked exhilarating. I snapped a photo at its highest point; the riders' screams could be heard from far away. So I quietly chickened out.
The rides in Love Song Paradise are all high-spec. When the log flume hit the water, the splash sprayed right onto the public path. Two friends had been waiting there to capture the most thrilling moment, but the water splashed directly at them. They dodged away, frightened. After recovering, they noticed a small sign nearby warning: 'Water may spray here—watch out!'
There are two performances at the Eternal Love scenic area you shouldn't miss: the famous song-and-dance show 'Lijiang Eternal Love' and the live open-air drama 'Lijiang Love Song.' Friends have asked me, if I've seen 'Lijiang Eternal Love,' is 'Lijiang Love Song' still necessary? I'd say the two shows are totally different in style, each with unique charm. 'Lijiang Love Song' runs from 6:00 to 6:30 p.m. daily at a dedicated open-air theater, shown at the bottom left of the picture below.
The grand song-and-dance performance 'Lijiang Eternal Love' was the highlight I most looked forward to on this trip. I'd heard so much about it beforehand, and multiple friends had recommended it. Combining cutting-edge stage technology with IMAX 3D cinematic visuals, it recreates millennia of Lijiang's history and legends. The show is divided into six acts: 'Naxi Creation Century,' 'Lugu Lake Kingdom of Women,' 'Caravan Legend,' 'Mu Mansion Glory,' 'Jade Dragon Third Kingdom,' and 'Searching for Shambhala.' It brings together almost all the most iconic Lijiang folklore symbols and cultural elements. It's staged in a giant theater with up to 4,700 seats, which practically becomes a testing ground for high-tech stagecraft.
Yesterday, I spent a full day at Songcheng, deeply experiencing Lijiang's thousand-year history and culture. Today, I wanted to take it easy and soak up Lijiang's magnificent natural scenery, so we all went to Lijiang Sangu Water—a place neither my friends nor I had visited before. Lijiang Sangu Water Scenic Area blends natural landscapes like mountains, gorges, and pastoral scenery with cultural sites such as the Tea Horse Ancient Road, Naxi villages, and Naxi customs. It's located in Hongwen Village, Yulong Naxi Autonomous County, at the confluence of the ancient Jinsha River valley (Xionggu-Jianchuan) and the current Yangtze River's First Bend to Tiger Leaping Gorge section. It's about 36 km from downtown Lijiang, a half-hour drive.
Sangu Water was once a necessary stop on the Tea Horse Road from northwest Yunnan to Tibet. In ancient times, horse caravans heading to Tibet would first pray for safety at the Wanfu Wanshou Stele, then drink and rest at Deyan Spring, and finally light a Ruyi Peace Lantern before setting off on the long journey. Today, Sangu Water is a tranquil little village that attracts unhurried travelers. Inside the scenic area, there's a glass suspension bridge—a modest challenge that many visitors have a blast with.
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