Through High Mountains and Into Rainforests: A 17-Day Journey to Mount Emei, Shangri-La, Xishuangbanna, and Kunming

📍 Lijiang · 👁 1790 reads · ❤️ 3 likes

The destination for the 2020 trip was Yunnan. I had been longing for Chengdu's cuisine, and since it's convenient to travel from Chengdu to Yunnan, my original plan was to start from Chengdu. But the sudden outbreak of COVID-19 at the beginning of 2020 brought great uncertainty to travel, so I couldn't decide whether to go. After being cooped up at home for over half a year and feeling quite down during the pandemic, I wanted to get out for some fresh air. I booked train tickets and a hotel in Qingdao, planning to first go to Qingdao, which is closer to Tianjin, to enjoy the sea breeze. Two days before departure, seeing that the domestic epidemic situation had become relatively stable and long-distance travel was possible, I finally decided to go to Qingdao first, then to Mount Emei in Chengdu and on to Yunnan.

Total expenses for Mount Emei and Yunnan (for two people) came to 19,723.25 RMB, broken down as follows:

Transportation: 6,567.42 RMB, Accommodation: 3,776.60 RMB, Entrance fees (including scenic area shuttle buses, cable cars, etc.): 2,862.00 RMB, Shopping, meals, local transportation and miscellaneous: 6,517.23 RMB.

Due to a flight delay, we arrived at Chengdu Shuangliu Airport at almost 2 p.m. After retrieving our checked luggage, we had already missed the 2-something high-speed train from Shuangliu Airport to Mount Emei, so we had to wait at the high-speed train station for the 6 p.m. train. We arrived at Mount Emei High-Speed Train Station after 7 p.m. Fortunately, Mount Emei city is not big, and the owner of our booked hotel came to pick us up on time.

After settling into the hotel, we went out for dinner. Mount Emei is very close to Leshan, and many Leshan specialties can be found here. Since we planned to stay overnight at the Golden Summit of Mount Emei, we first bought some food supplies for the next day's hike, and then came across a restaurant called Niumantang Qiaojiao Beef with many diners, so we decided to have our first meal at Mount Emei there.

We ordered a medium portion of Qiaojiao Beef, which was served in a large bowl brimming with beef, offal and vegetables. Both the beef and offal were very tender, and the broth was delicious, even better when soaked with rice.

After filling up on Qiaojiao Beef, we went back to the hotel to rest, ready for the next day's Mount Emei adventure.

During dinner the previous evening, we noticed a shop selling Mount Emei tofu pudding with a plaque reading 'Intangible Cultural Heritage' on its signboard. This morning we went to try Mount Emei's tofu pudding and see how it differs from the northern version.

The tofu pudding here comes with crispy fried pork and lots of fried bits, a bit oily and not quite to our taste.

Mount Emei Tofu Pudding

After breakfast, leaving our luggage in storage, we began our journey on Mount Emei.

Mount Emei is the bodhimaṇḍa of Samantabhadra Bodhisattva and one of China's 'Four Sacred Buddhist Mountains.' With its steep terrain and gorgeous scenery, it has long been known as 'Emei, the Most Beautiful Under Heaven.' Religious culture, especially Buddhist culture, forms the core of Mount Emei's historical and cultural identity. All architecture, statues, ritual instruments, ceremonies, music, and paintings reflect a strong religious atmosphere.

We first took a bus to Fuhu Temple at the foot of the mountain.

Fuhu Temple, also known as Fuhu Zen Monastery, Shenlong Hall, or Huxi Abode, is adjacent to Baoguo Temple. Destroyed during the Ming Dynasty, it was rebuilt in the eighth year of Shunzhi in the Qing Dynasty and renamed 'Huxi Abode.' Later, due to tiger threats nearby, monks built a victory pillar to subdue them, thus changing the name to 'Fuhu Temple.' Emperor Kangxi once inscribed the name 'Ligou Yuan' for it.

Stepping through the temple gate, we were surrounded by a vast expanse of lush green, with trees so dense they blocked out the sky. Few people visit here, and the tranquil atmosphere gave a sense of escaping the mundane world. Climbing up stone steps and passing through Xijin Forest, the temple hall with its 'Huxi Abode' plaque came into view.

In the rear courtyard to the right of the Main Shrine Hall, there stands the Huayan Pagoda Pavilion, housing a Ming Dynasty cast copper Huayan Pagoda. Standing 5.8 meters tall with 14 tiers, the pagoda is cast with over 4,700 small Buddha figures and engraved with the full text of the Avataṃsaka Sūtra. This copper pagoda is considered the finest in China due to its antiquity, impressive size, and exquisite craftsmanship.

Fuhu Temple – Huayan Precious Pagoda

Fuhu Temple – Huayan Pagoda Pavilion

Leaving Fuhu Temple, we strolled along a mountain path and soon reached Baoguo Temple.

Baoguo Temple is the first temple on Mount Emei and the seat of the Mount Emei Buddhist Association, making it the center of Buddhist activities on the mountain. In front of the temple gate stands a pair of Ming Dynasty stone lions, vividly carved and imposing, guarding this famed mountain sanctuary like sentinels. In the 42nd year (1703) of Emperor Kangxi's reign, inspired by the Buddhist teaching 'Four Kinds of Gratitude, Four Kinds of Repayment,' the emperor bestowed the name 'Baoguo Temple' (Temple of Gratitude to the Nation).

This is a must-visit spot on Mount Emei, so it was crowded, much less serene than Fuhu Temple.

After Baoguo Temple, it was nearly noon. We walked to the Baoguo Temple Tourist Transport Center to take a bus to the Golden Summit, passing a stone-carved corridor and the First Mountain Pavilion along the way.

Mount Emei – Stone-carved Corridor

Mount Emei – First Mountain Pavilion

The direct scenic bus from Baoguo Temple Tourist Transport Center to Leidongping parking lot takes about two hours. From Leidongping, you can walk to the lower station of the Golden Summit cable car at Jieyin Hall. From there, you can take the cable car up; those with good stamina can also hike. The mountain path from Jieyin Hall to the Golden Summit is quite steep, and walking takes about an hour and a half. To conserve energy, we chose the cable car. The uphill walk from Leidongping to Jieyin Hall is relatively easy with nice scenery, and we spent about half an hour reaching the cable car's lower station, stopping now and then to take photos. The cable car cabin is large, like a bus, holding about thirty to forty people, and it took just over ten minutes to reach the upper station. Our booked Jinding Hotel was right at the exit of the upper station.

From the hotel, it's less than a ten-minute walk to the Golden Summit. Dropping off our bags, we headed straight there.

The Golden Summit of Mount Emei is the most concentrated area of temples and scenic spots on the mountain, a gathering of famous sites and the essence of Mount Emei, symbolizing the mountain itself. Also known as Huazang Temple, it was first built in the Tang Dynasty, with a roof covered in tin tiles, and was called 'Silver Summit' during the Yuan Dynasty. From the Golden Summit, one can witness the four great wonders of Mount Emei – sunrise, sea of clouds, Buddha's halo, and divine lights.

At the highest point of the Golden Summit stands a rare treasure called the 'Golden Summit Bronze Hall,' commissioned by Master Miaofeng in the 30th year of Wanli in the Ming Dynasty (1602) and donated by the Prince of Lu'an from western Sichuan. The hall is 8 meters tall, 4.8 meters wide, and 4.3 meters deep, with double eaves and carved ridges, surrounded by embroidered brown lattice windows. The whole structure is welded from bronze components, and the roof tiles are gilded. Under sunlight, it sparkles with golden brilliance visible for miles, hence the name 'Golden Summit.'

We were lucky; when we arrived at the Golden Summit, the sky cleared. Before even ascending, the golden statue of Samantabhadra with ten directions, gleaming in the sun, was strikingly bright. Climbing the high stone steps, the terrain opened up. The towering golden statue of Samantabhadra and the Golden Summit itself shone brilliantly against the blue sky and white clouds.

From the summit, we gazed around at the surrounding mountain ranges and even spotted the distant Ten Thousand Buddha Summit.

The Ten Thousand Buddha Summit is the highest peak of Mount Emei, at 3,099 meters above sea level. With sheer cliffs rising from the flatland, it stands majestically at the top of 'Great Brightness Mountain.' It is the highest scenic area and nature reserve among the four sacred Buddhist mountains of China, and also the world's highest World Natural and Cultural Heritage site.

Unfortunately, the path to the Ten Thousand Buddha Summit is now closed, so we could only gaze from afar.

Mount Emei Golden Summit – Distant view of Ten Thousand Buddha Summit

Around 5 o'clock, tour groups and visitors staying downhill began to leave. The bustling crowds disappeared, leaving only those of us who had booked accommodation on the summit to capture the sunset. We stayed on the Golden Summit until the sun went down before returning to the hotel.

Mount Emei Golden Summit – Sunset

Early next morning, while it was still dark, we visited the Golden Summit again. Many people had already gathered, waiting for sunrise.

As light began to appear on the horizon, a stir went through the crowd. The sky brightened gradually, and the edges of white clouds turned golden-red. At first, only a tiny sliver of deep red sun peeked out from the cloud bank, then slowly, most of the sun emerged. Moments later, the crimson sun jumped above the clouds. The surrounding peaks and the Golden Summit were bathed in sunlight, the golden statue of Samantabhadra and the Golden Summit Hall gleaming brilliantly in the morning glow.

Mount Emei Golden Summit – Sunrise

The Golden Summit bathed in morning light

Mount Emei Golden Summit – Distant view of Ten Thousand Buddha Summit

Once the sun had fully risen, we contentedly returned to the hotel. After breakfast, we prepared to descend. At a viewing platform near the cable car upper station, we saw snow-capped mountains in the distance, their white peaks glowing even brighter in the sunshine. On the way to Leidongping, we also encountered Mount Emei's monkeys.

Mount Emei Golden Summit – Distant view of snowy peaks

Mount Emei – Chance encounter with monkeys

We took the bus from Leidongping parking lot to Wannian Temple parking lot, then a cable car to Wannian Temple.

Wannian Temple is one of the eight great temples on Mount Emei. It houses the three treasures of the temple: a Buddha's tooth, palm-leaf sutra, and imperial seal. The temple has many stone inscriptions, the most famous being the 'First Mountain Stele' handwritten by Song Dynasty calligrapher Mi Fu. The beamless brick hall within the temple is the second hall of Wannian Temple, also called the Samantabhadra Hall. Built in the Ming Dynasty entirely of brick, without any wood, pillars, or tiles, it is a magnificent sight.

From Wannian Temple, we walked downhill along stone steps, passing by White Dragon Cave. White Dragon Cave, also known as White Dragon Temple, was founded by Zen Master Biechuan during the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty. Behind the temple, there were originally upper and lower White Dragon Caves, said to have been the cultivation site of the White Snake Lady, giving the temple its name.

White Dragon Cave is small; a quick tour takes only ten minutes. Continuing downwards, we soon arrived at Qingyin Pavilion.

During the Tang Dynasty, Qingyin Pavilion was called Niuxin Temple. In the reign of Emperor Xizong of Tang, Zen Master Huitong from Jiangling renamed it Woyun Temple. In the Ming Dynasty, Zen Master Guangji drew from the line 'Why need silk and bamboo? Nature's sounds in mountains and waters are clear' from poet Zuo Si's 'Recruiting Hermits' of the Jin Dynasty, taking the two characters 'qingyin' (clear sounds) to rename it Qingyin Pavilion. The pavilion has a single hall, enshrining the Three Saints of Huayan: Shakyamuni Buddha in the center, Manjusri Bodhisattva on the left, and Samantabhadra Bodhisattva on the right. In front of the pavilion stands the 'Jie Wang Pavilion.' Though small, Qingyin Pavilion is surrounded by mountains and water, with beautiful scenery. Its overall layout embodies the concept of 'nature and man in harmony,' making it a model of Chinese Buddhist temple garden architecture. One of Mount Emei's ten scenic wonders, 'Double Bridges and Clear Sounds,' is located here.

This is another must-see spot on Mount Emei, and it was quite crowded, turning what should have been a peaceful place noisy and bustling. We lingered only briefly before taking the bus back down to the Baoguo Temple Tourist Transport Center.

After retrieving our stored luggage at the foot of the mountain, we went to the Mount Emei High-Speed Train Station. There was still time, so we immediately switched to the earliest train to Chengdu.

By the time we settled into our hotel in Chengdu, it was already dinner time. We found a Yuanji Skewer Hot Pot restaurant near the hotel online and embarked on a culinary journey in Chengdu.

Chengdu Skewer Hot Pot

Today, we planned a rest day in Chengdu, just wandering around and looking for local snacks.

Early in the morning, we followed the navigation to a shop specializing in Chengdu snacks called Xiaomingtang Dandan Sweet Water Noodles. We ordered Dandan Noodles and a few other snacks; everything was delicious.

Last time I visited Jinli was at night. After breakfast, we decided to explore Jinli in the daytime. On the roadside, we saw a vendor selling sugar-glazed oil fruits and bought some to try – they were okay.

Jinli was still crowded during the day, but without artificial lighting, the architecture revealed a rustic beauty.

Passing by the Three Kingdoms Tea Garden, we happened to catch a Sichuan opera performance. Tired from walking, we went in to rest. The program was varied, with acrobatics, magic, and water sleeve dances. The highlight, of course, was the unique Sichuan opera skill – face-changing.

Face-changing is an important part of Sichuan opera, a special technique for portraying characters in the art form, a romantic method to reveal the inner thoughts and emotions of the characters, and a treasured cultural heritage created and passed down through generations of Sichuan opera artists. The main techniques include 'smearing,' 'blowing,' and 'pulling.' By bringing face-changing to the stage, Sichuan opera uses marvelous skills to make it a unique art.

We sipped tea and enjoyed the show.

After the performance, I remembered the Jian ware tea sets I had seen in Kuanzhai Alley last time and wanted to buy a set this time. So we headed to Kuanzhai Alley again. But after searching for a long time, we couldn't find that shop and gave up. Online, I saw that Kuixinglou Street, not far from Kuanzhai Alley, had many snacks, so we decided to have dinner there.

Kuixinglou Street is a short street lined with restaurants, many of them hot pot places. We bought some egg cakes from a roadside stall; they were okay. Noticing a crowded place called 'Sichuan Flavor Party Snack Collection,' we also ordered a few snacks there. I thought a shop specializing in snacks would have great flavors, but the ones we ordered were just average.

Early the next morning, we took a flight from Shuangliu Airport to Lijiang, arriving after an hour and a half. I had booked a hotel in Shuhe Ancient Town, which offered airport pickup. The driver was already waiting for us. The drive from the airport to Shuhe Ancient Town took about an hour, and we reached the hotel by noon.

We used the afternoon to visit the Mu Mansion within Lijiang Old Town and stroll through the old town itself.

Lijiang Old Town, also known as Dayan Old Town, is one of only two ancient towns in China that successfully applied for World Cultural Heritage status as an entire town. The streets in the old town are built along the mountain and water, paved with red breccia, and feature attractions such as Sifang Street, Mu Mansion, Wufeng Tower, and the Great Water Wheel.

The Mu Mansion, originally the government office of the hereditary Mu clan of Lijiang's native chieftains, is located at the eastern foot of Lion Mountain in the old town. First built in the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), it was reconstructed in 1998 and turned into the Old Town Museum. Covering 46 mu (about 3 hectares), the mansion contains 162 rooms arranged neatly from west to east along a 369-meter central axis, including the Sanqing Hall, Yuyin Tower, Guangbi Tower, Hufa Hall, Wanxuan Tower, Yishi Hall, and Zhongyi Archway. Eleven plaques bestowed by successive emperors hang inside, reflecting the rise and fall of the Mu family. The TV drama 'Mu Mansion Storm,' which tells the story of Lijiang's Mu chieftains, was filmed here.

The Mu Mansion is vast in scale, its layout similar to the Forbidden City in Beijing.

Leaving Mu Mansion, we wandered along the old town's streets and unknowingly arrived at Sifang Street.

Sifang Street is the heart of Lijiang Old Town, said to have been built by the Ming Dynasty Mu chieftains in the shape of their official seal. It was the most important hub on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, where merchants gathered from the Ming and Qing dynasties onwards, and various ethnic cultures intersected and thrived, making it the center of Lijiang's economic and cultural exchange.

Turning into a narrow alley off Sifang Street, we found both sides brimming with flowers. Following the alley to its end led to a must-see spot in the old town – the Great Water Wheel.

Lijiang Old Town – Great Water Wheel

After exploring the old town, it was time for dinner. Outside the old town, at a hot pot restaurant called Ama Cured Ribs, we ordered the local specialty – cured spare rib hot pot – along with water nymph flowers and other sides. A full pot of cured ribs arrived; it was delicious, and even after we were both stuffed, there was plenty left.

Lijiang Cured Spare Rib Hot Pot

With plenty of time today, we decided to take the bus to the Jade Pillar Soaring to the Sky Scenic Area. Leaving the hotel in the morning, we caught bus no. 111 at the entrance of Shuhe Ancient Town and transferred to no. 17 to Yuhu Village, then walked along the road to the scenic area.

The Jade Pillar Soaring to the Sky Scenic Area is part of Lijiang's Jade Dragon Snow Mountain scenic region, located over ten li from the old town. It is grouped with Yushui Village, Yufeng Temple, Dongba Valley, Dongba Ten-Thousand Gods Garden, and Dongba Kingdom as the 'Three Jades and Three Dongbas.'

Yuhu Lake is an artificial lake dug by the Mu family before the Ming Dynasty. The Mu clan built summer retreats, the Yulong Academy, and a deer farm by the lake. The earliest residents of Yuhu Village were those who guarded the palace and raised deer for the Naxi kings.

On a cliff beside the lake, four large characters 'Yu Zhu Qing Tian' (Jade Pillar Soaring to the Sky) are carved, an inscription by Yang Bi, Lijiang's first appointed official. This stone carving not only captures the grandeur of Lijiang's snow mountains but also serves as a cultural relic directly linked to the significant historical event of 'gaitui guiliu' (replacing native chieftains with centrally appointed officials). The lake's crystal-clear snowmelt water ripples with aquatic plants; on clear days, the tall, shining Jade Dragon Snow Peak is reflected in the lake under blue skies and white clouds, as if nature itself settles at the bottom. 'Jade Lake Reflection' ranks first among the twelve finest sights of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, praised by Naxi poets of the Ming and Qing dynasties.

Nowadays, the area focuses on introducing Dongba culture and traditional Naxi customs. There are exhibition halls displaying Dongba script and Naxi folklore. Few tourists come here. Inside, trees sway gracefully, and the still reflection in the lake resembles a vibrant oil painting. Unfortunately, it was cloudy, so we didn't get to see the reflection of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

Jade Pillar Soaring to the Sky Scenic Area

Leaving the scenic area, we took a path next to the parking lot down to a large meadow. The meadow was blooming with all sorts of wildflowers. We were the only two people there, free to soak in the beauty of nature. Crossing the meadow brought us to Yuhu Village. The village roads are paved with stones, and the houses are built of stone, blending seamlessly with nature. The village is large; while wandering, we unexpectedly saw a building marked 'Joseph Rock's Former Residence.'

Joseph Rock was the foreign scholar who first comprehensively introduced Lijiang's ethnic culture to the West. In 1922, as an explorer, writer, and photographer for National Geographic and Harvard University's Arnold Arboretum, he entered Yunnan from the Thai-Burmese border and ended up living at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain for 27 years.

Yuhu Village – Passing through the large meadow

Yuhu Village – Joseph Rock's Former Residence

Returning from Yuhu Village, we planned to explore Shuhe Ancient Town, but a sudden heavy rain sent us back to the hotel to rest.

No trip to Lijiang is complete without visiting Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, so today we headed there.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is the main peak of the Yunling range in the Hengduan Mountains, a young limestone fault-block mountain. Its 13 peaks stretch south to north, with the highest point of the main peak Shanzidou at 5,596 meters, covered with perennial snow. It supports the temperate oceanic glacier closest to the equator in the Eurasian landmass, making it the permanent snow-capped mountain nearest the equator in the Northern Hemisphere. The developed tourist areas include Glacier Park, Ganhaizi, Blue Moon Valley, Spruce Meadow, and Yak Meadow, with three cableways: the large cableway to Glacier Park, the middle cableway to Yak Meadow, and the small cableway to Spruce Meadow.

Because of the cloudy weather and thick clouds, we decided to skip Glacier Park and head first to Yak Meadow at 3,700 meters altitude, then to Blue Moon Valley. Only scenic area buses can go beyond the Ganhaizi Visitor Center, which then take you to the cableway station for the ride up.

Yak Meadow is called 'Gezhangu' in Naxi, meaning 'a patch of alpine meadow scattered like stars.'

The cable car glided through the mountains, fog thickening along the way. Stepping out, we were immediately enveloped in heavy mist with low visibility. As we walked, we photographed the dewy flowers and grass on the meadow, hoping the fog would lift.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – Yak Meadow

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – Yak Meadow – Snowflake Temple

After waiting over an hour with no sign of the fog clearing, we had no choice but to take the cable car back down. Getting off at Blue Moon Valley, we began to explore.

Blue Moon Valley is formed by meltwater from Jade Dragon Snow Mountain flowing through a valley on the mountain's eastern slopes. The water appears blue, and the valley is crescent-shaped, resembling a blue moon set at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain from a distance. Inspired by the 'Blue Moon Valley' in James Hilton's 'Lost Horizon,' the name stuck. As the river flows, it is blocked by the terrain, creating four larger bodies of water named Jade Liquid Lake, Mirror Pool Lake, Blue Moon Lake, and Listening to the Waves Lake. The shores are lush with vegetation, with the distant snowy peak as a backdrop.

The lake water varies in depth, displaying different shades of blue. Boardwalks link the shores, allowing visitors to get close to the water. Perhaps because the gloomy weather hid the snow mountain from view, everyone had gathered here, making it extremely noisy.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – Blue Moon Valley

After touring Blue Moon Valley, our Jade Dragon Snow Mountain adventure for the day was over. Returning from the mountain, we strolled around Shuhe Ancient Town.

Shuhe Ancient Town is one of the earliest Naxi settlements in the Lijiang basin, a well-preserved important market town on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, and a living specimen of the Naxi people's transition from agricultural to commercial civilization. It is a model of market town development shaped by openness and caravan activities.

At the edge of the ancient town, we chanced upon a small shop selling local chicken rice noodles. At 12 RMB a bowl, the noodles were silky and the chicken broth rich.

Lijiang Delicacy – Local Chicken Rice Noodles

To travel from Lijiang to Shangri-La, there is currently only a road. To conveniently visit Tiger Leaping Gorge en route, we booked a shared ride online, which allowed a stop of about an hour and a half at the Upper Tiger Leaping section.

The Jinsha River, originating from the Geladaindong Snow Mountain in Qinghai, rushes thousands of miles to this point, where it is suddenly blocked by Jade Dragon and Haba Snow Mountains. The once calm river turns furious here, crashing forcefully into the massive crevice between the two snow mountains, carving a deep, narrow valley – the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge. As the first great canyon of the Yangtze River, it is renowned for its breathtaking peril and grandeur, one of China's deepest gorges. Legend says a tiger once leaped over the river using a rock in the middle, giving the gorge its name. It comprises three sections: Upper, Middle, and Lower Tiger Leaping, plus high-altitude trekking routes.

Upper Tiger Leaping is the narrowest part of the canyon. In the 30-meter-wide river, a boulder four or five meters high stands midstream, splitting the torrent into two like a steep cascade, creating thundering waves. Legend has it that a fierce tiger used this rock to leap from Jade Dragon Snow Mountain to Haba Snow Mountain, hence the name Tiger Leaping Rock.

The car stopped beside the road. Walking down the stairs, we saw a statue of a leaping stone tiger, about three meters tall including its base, a landmark at the entrance. Continuing inward, we entered the great canyon. On both sides, towering mountains rise. The river is strewn with jagged rocks. The river, squeezed between the two snow mountains, roars forward like a charging tiger, swift and powerful, spraying water and booming through the valley, a spectacular sight. The raging water at times crashes in snowy waves, at other times swirls in misty vortices – a rare natural wonder.

After visiting Upper Tiger Leaping, we continued our car journey. We made a brief stop at Xiaozhongdian, where there was a sea of flowers. In September, the wolfbane flowers were in full bloom, their fiery red hues forming a beautiful picture with the green mountains and grass.

Shangri-La – Xiaozhongdian – Wolfbane Flowers

Around 2 p.m., we arrived at the Dukezong Ancient Town East Gate parking lot in Shangri-La.

Dukezong Ancient Town is over 1,300 years old and the best-preserved, largest Tibetan residential complex in China. It was once a hub on the tea-horse route, a window for cultural exchange between the snowy Tibetan region and Yunnan's ethnic groups, and an economic and trade link for Sichuan, Tibet, and Yunnan. A great fire in 2014 destroyed most of the town, and it has since been rebuilt.

Our booked hotel was at the North Gate. With our luggage, we initially tried to take a taxi, but it was hard to get one at the East Gate, so we called the innkeeper to pick us up.

In Shangri-La, it gets dark late. After settling in, we took a taxi to the nearby Songzanlin Monastery.

Ganden Songzanlin Monastery, also called Guihua Temple, is the largest Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Yunnan and one of the most renowned in Tibetan areas. It is the center of the Yellow Hat sect in the Sichuan-Yunnan region and holds significant weight in the entire Tibetan region, often called the 'Little Potala Palace.' Built on a hillside, it resembles a fortress, a treasure trove of Tibetan religious culture and artistic achievement. With its resplendent gilded copper-tiled roofs, beast-mouthed flying eaves, and the spacious Zhacang Main Hall housing numerous Buddha statues, with exquisite murals and decorations on both sides, it is also known as the 'Tibetan Art Museum.'

We first visited the museum opposite the visitor center, where many beautiful thangkas were displayed, along with a three-dimensional four-sided mandala, exquisitely crafted.

After the museum, we took the scenic shuttle to the monastery. From my research, I knew that the Lamuyangcuo Lake in front could reflect the entire monastery. So, upon disembarking, we first took a walk around the lake's artificial boardwalk. The water was clear, the aquatic plants lush, and ducklings frolicked and foraged. When the sun briefly broke through the clouds, we captured the reflection of Songzanlin Monastery in the water, its gilded copper tiles shining gold.

The entrance ticket included a guided tour. Guides gathered independent visitors into groups to lead them into the monastery, explaining as they went. Right after our lake walk, we caught a guide taking a group inside and followed along.

Similar to other Tibetan Buddhist architecture, the two main halls, Zhacang and Jikang, stand tall in the center, surrounded by eight Kangtsens and monks' quarters, creating a layered, three-dimensional contour that highlights the grandeur of the main structures. The Zhacang, meaning monastery in Tibetan, is where monks study scriptures and practice doctrines.

Ganden Songzanlin Monastery

Tibetan food and yak meat hot pot are Shangri-La specialties. After returning from the monastery, we found a highly-rated restaurant in the old town called 'Water Side Special Hot Pot' to try the yak hot pot. The staff recommended a combo of yak meat and black pork, a wild vegetable platter, and barley cakes. When we wanted to order more, they stopped us, worried we wouldn't finish. Both meats were tender, and the seasonal wild vegetables were fresh. In the end, we were full before finishing everything.

Shangri-La Yak Meat Hot Pot

We had booked a direct scenic bus from Dukezong Ancient Town to Pudacuo National Park. In the morning, we boarded at the parking lot in front of Moonlight Square. En route, we bought yak milk and barley cakes from vendors – they were delicious.

The small hill east of Moonlight Square is the famous Guishan Park in Shangri-La (Turtle Mountain Park). The bright sunshine, pure blue sky with white clouds, and the glittering golden prayer wheel created an idyllic picture. At the park entrance, there's a large, crystal-clear pool fed by an ancient well; the water is potable, and many townspeople draw their water from here.

Ancient Well at the Entrance of Guishan Park

On each side of the square are the Red Army Long March Museum and the Diqing History Museum. With time before departure, we first visited the Red Army Long March Museum and the Diqing History Museum. The Red Army Long March Museum is actually housed in a Tibetan temple, with a large hall where many local elderly women come to worship. The Diqing History Museum displays some historical artifacts.

Red Army Long March Museum

Diqing History Museum

The direct bus was scheduled to leave at 10 a.m., but due to a staff error, we were delayed and arrived at the park close to noon.

Pudacuo National Park lies in the center of the 'Three Parallel Rivers' World Natural Heritage area in northwest Yunnan, at altitudes between 3,500 and 4,159 meters. It comprises the internationally important Bita Lake Nature Reserve and the Shudu Lake Scenic Area from the Haba section of the Three Parallel Rivers heritage site, featuring Bita Lake, Shudu Lake, and the Milichang subalpine pasture. With its terrain, lakes, wetlands, forests, meadows, rivers, rare flora and fauna, the pristine ecosystem remains well-preserved, making it one of Shangri-La's main attractions.

To protect the rare schizothorax fish, Milichang and Bita Lake are now closed; only Shudu Lake is open to the public.

At the visitor center, we took a park bus to the Shuduganghe hiking experience area, from where it's a 3-kilometer walk to Shudu Lake. Only a handful of passengers got off here; the rest continued directly by bus. With time to spare, we disembarked and hiked to Shudu Lake.

The Shuduganghe hiking area features a path winding through alpine valleys. Because few people come here, the environment is relatively undisturbed and primitive. The ancient forest blocks out the sun with its dense, dark green canopy, sheltering from wind and rain. Walking through the lush woods, we hardly felt like we were at over 3,000 meters on the plateau.

Pudacuo National Park – Shuduganghe Hiking Experience Area

At the end of the hiking area is the parking lot for Shudu Lake.

Shudu Lake is ringed by green mountains, with tall, sturdy spruce and fir trees seeming to pierce the sky. Broad pastures offer lush grass, and the lake is home to many waterfowl like mallards and ruddy shelducks.

Following the boardwalk into the scenic area, the expansive lake came into view, with thick aquatic plants growing in the shallows. Perhaps due to the overcast sky, the scenery wasn't as stunning as imagined.

Pudacuo National Park – Shudu Lake

At 4 p.m., we returned from Pudacuo National Park. An hour later, we got off the bus at Dukezong Ancient Town's East Gate, just in time to visit Guishan Park.

We climbed the steep steps to the Han-style temple; behind it stands the world's largest prayer wheel. Looking up, the entire wheel is about five stories tall, magnificent. The body is pure copper gilded with gold. Its upper cylinder is embossed with figures of the four great bodhisattvas – Manjusri, Samantabhadra, Avalokiteshvara, and Ksitigarbha – while the lower part shows the eight auspicious Buddhist symbols. Inside, it holds over 1.24 million mantras, unspoken truths, and various Buddhist treasures, weighing about 16 tons. To turn this enormous wheel requires the combined effort of a dozen or more people. Rotating it clockwise, each full turn equals chanting the Buddha's name 1.24 million times; three full turns bring blessings and good fortune.

From Guishan Park, one overlooks the entire city of Shangri-La, with wisps of smoke from the town and the shimmering waters of Qinglong Lake all visible.

Guishan Park – Prayer Wheel

At Guishan Park, we joined others in turning the prayer wheel three times, hoping for good luck. Leaving the park, we wanted a Tibetan meal, so we searched the old town and found a small eatery called Zangwei Xinqiao Snacks. We ordered barley noodles, stir-fried Tibetan fragrant pork, handmade tsampa, and butter tea. The tsampa was sweet and tasty, the butter tea creamy, and the barley noodles and pork were delicious.

Handmade Tsampa and Butter Tea

Barley Noodles and Stir-fried Tibetan Fragrant Pork

Stuffed, we continued wandering the old town and stumbled upon Xiangbala Old Street, an ancient-looking street.

We had booked three nights in Shangri-La, but feeling slightly unwell, we decided to check out early and return to Lijiang the next day.

Early in the morning, we left Shangri-La by bus and arrived in Lijiang at noon. In the afternoon, we decided to visit Black Dragon Pool Park, which was not far from our inn.

Many buses go from the old town to Black Dragon Pool Park. The park features a crystal-clear spring pool surrounded by traditional buildings like the Dragon God Shrine, Deyue Tower, Suocui Bridge, Jade Emperor Pavilion, and the relocated original Ming Dynasty Wufeng Tower and the gate tower of the Jietuo Forest from Fuguo Temple.

On clear days, one can capture the reflection of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the pool. During our stay, the clouds were too thick, so we never saw the snow mountain.

Exiting Black Dragon Pool Park, we walked about a kilometer along the Jade River to Lijiang Old Town. Many travel guides recommend No. 88 Snack Shop, so we wanted to try it. Following the navigation, we ordered four snacks, only to be told three were unavailable. We promptly left to find food elsewhere.

Our backup dining spot was Zhongyi Market, where many locals go; it has a night food market starting at 6 p.m.

The flight to Xishuangbanna was in the evening, leaving a full day free. We decided to visit Yushui Village to explore Dongba culture again.

Taking bus no. 6 from the old town, the final stop is Yushui Village Scenic Area.

Yushui Village lies at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, a sacred place for the inheritance of Lijiang's Dongba culture, Baisha music, and Leba dance. The village is simple and natural, with mountains and water complementing each other and beautiful scenery – a fengshui treasure with strong ethnic cultural characteristics.

Entering the area, we first saw the World Memory Heritage Monument for Dongba Ancient Texts. Following the mountain path upwards, we reached the Nature God Ritual Site at the source of Lijiang's water. The area also includes a Dongba temple and folk customs museum, offering deep insights into Dongba culture and Naxi traditions.

Yushui Village – Dongba Script

Leaving Yushui Village and walking downhill along the road for about half an hour brought us to Yufeng Temple.

Yufeng Temple is located at the southern foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, 13 kilometers from Lijiang Old Town. Built in the 39th year of Kangxi in the Qing Dynasty (1700), it once had nine courtyards; the main hall and upper and lower courtyards remain. Its Tibetan name is Zhaxi Qupei Lin, meaning 'Auspicious Dharma Propagation Garden.' It is one of Lijiang's five major Buddhist temples alongside Fuguo, Puji, Wenfeng, and Zhiyun Temples.

Yufeng Temple is world-famous for its 'Ten-Thousand Blossom Camellia' tree, personally planted by the eighth Tai Situ Rinpoche of the Karma Kagyu lineage nearly 500 years ago. Each year from the start of spring to early summer, over a hundred days, more than 20 batches producing over 20,000 vibrant camellia flowers bloom in succession, earning it the titles 'King of World Camellias' and 'The Best Tree on Earth.'

Unfortunately, we missed the blooming season and didn't see the magnificent floral display.

Yufeng Temple – 'Ten-Thousand Blossom Camellia' Tree

Yufeng Temple – 'Ten-Thousand Blossom Camellia' Tree (Descriptive Photo)

Exiting Yufeng Temple, we caught a bus no. 6 back to the old town. We retrieved our luggage and headed to Lijiang Airport, ready to begin our Xishuangbanna adventure.

Xishuangbanna is a Dai ethnic region. Due to a flight delay, we arrived late at our hotel in Gaozhuang Xishuangjing in Jinghong, the capital, so we couldn't see the surroundings. This morning, from our room's balcony, we saw the hotel garden and streets lined with flowering plants, banana trees, and tall coconut palms laden with fruit. The buildings, mostly white, have a style very different from mainland China, strongly reminiscent of Southeast Asia.

Gaozhuang Xishuangjing is a Dai term meaning 'nine pagodas and twelve villages.' Through its master plan of 'one river, two gates, nine pagodas, twelve villages,' the aim is to recreate the ancient glory of Jinghong, building a prosperous 'city within a city' to welcome visitors from around the world.

We had arranged with the driver who picked us up yesterday, Mr. Yuan, to rent his car to visit the Wild Elephant Valley. At 9 a.m., Mr. Yuan arrived on time.

To see wild Asian elephants in China, you must come to Xishuangbanna; and in Xishuangbanna, you must go to the Wild Elephant Valley. Historically called the 'Land of Elephants Riding,' Xishuangbanna is the only habitat for Asian elephants in China. The Wild Elephant Valley, situated at the junction of the eastern and western sections of the Mengyang Nature Reserve, serves as the central corridor for elephant groups living in these two sections. The valley is crisscrossed with rivers and dense forests, a typical tropical rainforest landscape. About 50 herds, totaling 300-350 elephants, roam here. The valley offers elevated observation walkways, rainforest sightseeing cableways, an Asian elephant museum, a breeding center, a performance school, and more, allowing visitors to safely observe wild elephants and their habitat without disturbing them. It's the only place in China where one can closely interact with Asian elephants, known as 'a bridge between humans and wild Asian elephants.'

Entering the scenic area, we arrived just in time for the elephant show. Mr. Yuan led us to watch. Elephants are intelligent animals, and their trained performance was lively and fun.

Wild Elephant Valley – Elephant Show

After the show, Mr. Yuan took us to the Butterfly Garden, Orchid Garden, and other spots, eventually reaching the elevated walkway. He told us he'd wait at the other end.

The walkway is over 1,000 meters long, 15 meters above the ground on average. With luck, visitors might see elephants on the ground below. We weren't so lucky, but the walkway, built through dense forest, allowed us to closely observe rainforest plants at canopy height and gain a unique perspective on tropical vegetation.

Leaving Wild Elephant Valley, Mr. Yuan suggested Jino Village, but I wanted to see Manting Park. We decided to head back to Jinghong for lunch first, then Manting Park.

Manting Park is the oldest park in Xishuangbanna, originally the royal garden of Dai kings. The Dai people call it 'Chunhuan,' meaning 'Garden of the Soul,' with over 1,300 years of history. The scenic area centers on three themes: 'Dai royal culture, Buddhist culture, and Dai folk culture.' With hills, waterways, and culturally rich man-made landscapes, it's a natural village-style park.

At the entrance, a bronze statue of Premier Zhou Enlai greets visitors, dressed in Dai attire, holding a water bowl in his left hand and an olive branch in his right. To the left are two bodhi trees planted by a Thai princess to symbolize Sino-Thai friendship.

The park blends natural landscapes with cultivated exotic flowers and garden architecture. Vines twist around trees, paths are deeply shaded, and the shore of Fangsheng Lake is carpeted with green grass. The most distinctive feature is the architecture, rich in Dai flavor. Walking in, one feels a return to nature, a harmonious combination of the natural and man-made that pleases the eye and soothes the soul.

Passing the Dai King's Palace, crossing the wind-rain bridge over Fangsheng Lake, and circling the white pagoda brings you to the renowned Xishuangbanna General Buddhist Temple.

The Xishuangbanna General Buddhist Temple, called 'Wabajie' in Dai, is the pilgrimage center for Buddhist devotees in Xishuangbanna. Before liberation, it was the sacred place where the highest ruler, the Chao Phaeng Din (Lord of the Land), and his chieftains worshipped, and the highest-ranking temple in the region.

The exterior walls are adorned with gilded images of Buddhas, auspicious animals, and lotus flowers, resplendent and golden.

Xishuangbanna General Buddhist Temple

I heard the Starlight Night Market in Gaozhuang had beautiful lights and wanted to see it that evening. Mr. Yuan said it gets lively after 8 p.m. So, after Manting Park, we rested at the hotel and headed out at 8.

The Starlight Night Market lies behind the Gaozhuang Grand Golden Pagoda Temple, along the banks of the Lancang River. Looking down from the temple steps, stalls stretch one after another, a vast expanse of glittering lights – very beautiful.

Gaozhuang Starlight Night Market

We strolled around the market. Like many tourist markets, it had stalls selling souvenirs, fruit, and local barbecues.

Both the Wangtianshu Scenic Area and the Xishuangbanna Tropical Botanical Garden, Chinese Academy of Sciences, are quite far from Jinghong, so we joined day tours for these two days. Today was Wangtianshu. Following the guide's text instructions, we waited at the Gaozhuang Tourist Service Center entrance early in the morning.

Wangtianshu Scenic Area is located in the Bubeng National Nature Reserve, northeast of Mengla County in Xishuangbanna, covering 864.4 hectares and a key tourist area. It is home to a representative rainforest species of the Dipterocarpaceae family – Parashorea chinensis (Wangtianshu). Growing straight and tall, up to 70-80 meters like swords piercing the sky, it's called the 'Forest Giant' or 'Forest Prince.' In 1974, Cai Xitao conducted field research and sampling in Bubeng Village, Mengla County, discovered Wangtianshu, confirming the existence of tropical rainforest in China and making China one of the countries with the most complete forest types. In 1986, Prince Philip personally came to verify and confirmed Wangtianshu's existence. After returning, he actively publicized it, confirming to the world that a tropical rainforest exists near 21°N latitude, making China one of the three tropical rainforest regions in the world.

We arrived at Wangtianshu Scenic Area near noon. After lunch, we first took a boat from Bubeng Pier to tour the beautiful Nanla River.

The Nanla River tropical rainforest sightseeing area, dubbed the 'Amazon of the East,' is the first stop in exploring Wangtianshu's rainforest. The 4.3-kilometer stretch from Bubeng Rainforest Pier to Wangtianshu Rainforest Pier winds through layers of dense tropical forest and strange aquatic vegetation, forming a picturesque scene.

Wangtianshu Scenic Area – Nanla River

The boat docked at the Rainforest Pier. Ashore, the highlight of the day awaited – the Wangtianshu Skywalk.

In the 1990s, American botanist Moore, to observe the rainforest up close and from multiple angles, cooperated with the local government to create a surprising 500-meter-long skywalk, suspended 36 meters high between the canopies of Wangtianshu trees. Constructed with thick steel cables linked between tall trees, suspended by steel ropes with nylon nets as railings and aluminum ladders as steps, each section connects to a wooden platform on a tree trunk. Today, it's a world-famous attraction where many come to experience China's tropical rainforest.

Walking on the skywalk, everyone cautiously savored the thrilling, slightly scary sensation of traversing the treetops.

Wangtianshu Scenic Area – Skywalk

Descending from the skywalk, it was time for a rainforest stroll. There are two famous trails – Cai Xitao Trail and Prince Philip Trail, named in honor of botanist Cai Xitao and the Duke of Edinburgh, chairman of the World Wildlife Fund.

Strolling through the forest, birds sang overhead. In the mid-layer, lianas, epiphytes, ferns, and especially the brutal strangling phenomenon were fascinating.

Wangtianshu Scenic Area – Giant Buttress Roots

Symbolic Rainforest Species – Wangtianshu

Wangtianshu Scenic Area – Strangling Phenomenon

Around 4 p.m., we began the return trip. Originally, after Xishuangbanna, we planned to go to Tengchong for hot springs, but on the way back to Jinghong, we received a text message that our already confirmed flight from Xishuangbanna to Tengchong had been canceled. I was immediately upset. Our plans were disrupted; we had to cancel Tengchong and replan. We hurriedly called to cancel the booked hotel and car, refunded and rebooked flights. After all this, I had no mood to explore further. On the way, we picked up a roasted chicken from Manfeilong Roast Chicken to go and went back to rest.

Early next morning, we again boarded at the Gaozhuang Tourist Service Center. Today's destination was the Xishuangbanna Tropical Botanical Garden, Chinese Academy of Sciences.

Also known as Menglun Botanical Garden, it is located on Huludao (Gourd Island) in Menglun Town, Mengla County, Xishuangbanna. It is China's largest botanical garden with the highest number of collected species and specialized plant areas, a comprehensive institution integrating scientific research, species conservation, and science education, as well as a scenic spot. The garden is divided into eastern and western parts. The eastern part is primarily for research, with only the rainforest scenic area open to the public. The western part is the visitor area, showcasing various plant collections.

We first toured the west area, starting with the Aquatic Plant Garden, where giant Victoria water lilies with huge leaves attracted many photographers. Passing through Palm Garden, Exotic Flowers and Rare Plants Garden, Celebrity and Famous Trees Garden, National Trees and National Flowers Garden, and more, we ended at the Liana Garden. The guide introduced plants along the way, but unfortunately, we came out of season and missed most blooms. Even after walking through, I couldn't recall many plant names.

Xishuangbanna Tropical Botanical Garden, Chinese Academy of Sciences

Some in our group rested at the Liana Garden, while we followed the guide to take the electric cart to the Green Stone Forest scenic area in the east.

The tropical rainforest in the east part of the botanical garden has been protected and restored since 1974, now essentially showing the typical features of a rainforest.

The Green Stone Forest area was all dense, layered primeval forest blocking out the sky, with vines and creepers everywhere. Competition for survival is brutal here; through eons of evolution, plants display strange phenomena like cascading roots, giant buttresses, and strangler figs.

Xishuangbanna Tropical Botanical Garden, Chinese Academy of Sciences

After the Green Stone Forest, the guide took us to the Tropical Rainforest Zone. Immediately, hot, humid air enveloped us. Parasitism, strangling, giant buttress roots – all were common sights, survival of the fittest evident everywhere.

Xishuangbanna Tropical Botanical Garden, Chinese Academy of Sciences

Everyone says Xishuangbanna's fruit is delicious, but the fruit we bought in Jinghong city center tasted just average. The guide suggested we try the fruit from the stalls at the garden entrance, saying they were naturally ripened without fertilizers or pesticides. After the tour, we bought small pineapples, mangoes, and bananas there; they were indeed sweet and fragrant, vastly different from what we'd had in Jinghong.

On the way back to the hotel, we stumbled upon a restaurant called Yuhan Dai Family Hand-Grasped Rice. Wanting to try Dai-style hand-grasped rice, we decided to have dinner there. We ordered a set for two, served on a bamboo winnowing tray lined with banana leaves, brimming with various delicacies. The pineapple rice was sweet and sour, the mixed vegetable soup refreshing with a hint of sweetness.

Xishuangbanna Hand-Grasped Rice

After dinner, on the way back, we passed the Grand Golden Pagoda Temple. It wasn't dark yet, so the temple hadn't been lit up, but it still gleamed beautifully in the sunlight. From above, only a few stalls were setting up for the evening. There were few people around, so we lingered before returning.

We took a midday flight from Xishuangbanna, arriving in Kunming after just over an hour. The airport bus to Kunming Railway Station, then a walk to the hotel – by that time, it was already dinner.

Kunming's famous foods are Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles, Steam Pot Chicken, and Wild Mushroom Hot Pot. For our first meal in Kunming, we chose wild mushroom hot pot. We took a taxi to Duocai Zhinan Yunnan Traditional Wild Mushroom Hot Pot Restaurant in Wanda Plaza. The variety of mushrooms was overwhelming, many I'd never heard of. On the server's recommendation, we ordered porcini, coral fungus, copper green mushroom, and a type called 'shuibaicong,' with a free-range chicken broth base. Once the broth boiled, the server added the mushrooms and set a timer for 15 minutes, then took a sample of the soup – a safety precaution against poisonous mushrooms. Then we could enjoy the delicious fungi.

The savory chicken broth and the crisp, tender texture of the mushrooms were something we, long used to northern city life, rarely get to taste.

Kunming Wild Mushroom Hot Pot

Today's main plan was the Western Hills Forest Park in Kunming. We left the hotel in the morning, following the navigation for quite a while before finding the right bus stop.

Kunming Western Hills Forest Park, 15 kilometers west of Kunming's suburbs, is a scenic forest park with rolling peaks, lush woods, singing birds, and beautiful scenery. Viewed from afar, the hills resemble a 'Sleeping Beauty' reclining by the shore of Dianchi Lake. The dense forest remains green all year round, hiding ancient temples like Huating Temple, Taihua Temple, and Sanqing Pavilion among the trees and bamboo.

The bus took us to the park's visitor center, then a scenic shuttle to the Longmen Scenic Area. At the entrance, we took a cable car to Lingxu Pavilion at the top, where we could gaze out over the misty expanse of Dianchi Lake.

Dianchi Lake, also called Kunming Lake, is dazzling with its vast blue waters and dotted sails, a captivating blend of lake and mountain scenery. It's the source of the Pudu River, a tributary of the Jinsha River, and Yunnan's largest freshwater lake, known as a 'Pearl of the Plateau.'

From Lingxu Pavilion, looking out, water and sky merge, and 500 li (250 km) of Dianchi Lake spread before us, refreshing the mind and spirit.

Western Hills Park – Distant view of Dianchi Lake

Descending stone steps and passing the 'Longmen Scenic Wonders' archway, we reached the park's highlight – the Longmen Grottoes.

The Longmen Grottoes are located at the far end of the Western Hills Forest Park in Kunming, stretching from Sanqing Pavilion in the north to Datiange in the south. Longmen is a complex of structures built into the cliffs of Luohan Mountain, the main peak of the Western Hills, boasting nine levels and eleven pavilions. The stone carvings include paths, chambers, railings, grottoes, and Buddha statues. 'Longmen Scenic Wonders' are renowned for being 'peculiar, perilous, steep, and secluded,' ranking first among the many attractions of the Western Hills. It is Yunnan's largest and most exquisite Daoist grotto complex, the essence of the Western Hills.

Western Hills Park – Longmen Grottoes

After Longmen, we took the shuttle bus to Taihua Temple.

Taihua Temple, nestled on the belly of Taihua Peak in the Western Hills Forest Park, is sheltered by mountains and water, hidden among green trees and bamboo, a majestic sight. Inside, pavilions, galleries, and ponds form a winding, peaceful retreat. Centered on the Main Shrine Hall, corridors branch out to flanking pavilions and terraces, with unique architectural artistry. The simple, elegant architecture, the vast 500-li Dianchi Lake, and the steep Taihua Peak create a dreamy, serene, and harmonious picture.

Due to years of neglect, most of the temple is currently closed to visitors.

Taihua Temple

Following the Taihua Ancient Path to the left of the temple gate, it takes about half an hour to reach Huating Temple.

Huating Temple, originally called Dayuanjue Zen Temple, was founded in the 14th century. Rebuilt in the sixth year of Tianshun in the Ming Dynasty (1462) and expanded in the 26th year of Kangxi in the Qing Dynasty (1688), it was renamed Huating Temple. Its grand halls make it a famous Buddhist site in Kunming.

Huating Temple

It was already 5 p.m. when we finished at Huating Temple. We took the shuttle back to the bottom, then a bus to Guandu Ancient Town.

We were heading home tomorrow. Last time at Guandu Ancient Town, the Guandu baba and flower cakes were delicious, so I wanted to stock up. We went straight to Lishi Han Baba shop, but sadly the flower cakes were sold out. I bought a few large baba to bring back.

At the entrance of the ancient town, there was a Qiaoxiangyuan Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles chain restaurant – a perfect chance to try Kunming's famous noodles. Besides the basic version, they had set meals named after the imperial examination ranks like Xiucai (scholar), Jinshi (imperial scholar), and Zhuangyuan (top scholar). We ordered the popular Jinshi set, which included the soup and rice noodles plus cured meat, fish slices, and many other toppings. You add the toppings to the scalding broth to cook, then the noodles. Coated in the rich soup, the noodles were deliciously smooth and savory.

Kunming Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles

Kunming is a famous flower capital, home to Asia's largest fresh-cut flower trading market. Our flight home was at 6 p.m., leaving plenty of time to visit a flower market. Online, I checked that Shangyi Flower Market was the largest and most comprehensive wholesale market in Kunming, so we headed straight there from Kunming Station in the morning.

But when we arrived, the market wasn't very big; we'd already walked two circles in just over an hour.

Kunming Shangyi Flower Market

Where was Asia's largest fresh-cut flower market? A quick search revealed it was the Kunming Dounan Flower Market! So we transferred to the metro and went there.

Kunming Dounan Flower Market is hailed as the 'wind vane' and 'barometer' of China's flower market. Over 80% of Yunnan's fresh-cut flowers and flowers from neighboring provinces and countries are traded here, then sold to provinces across China and over 50 countries and regions including Japan, Thailand, and Vietnam. It's said that seven out of ten fresh-cut flowers in China come from Yunnan.

The market is huge. The first floor mainly sells dried flowers and fresh cuts, every stall piled high with blooms. Perhaps due to the season, there weren't many varieties, mostly common ones in the north, but prices were much lower. The second floor sells succulents, with an astonishing variety, many rarely seen in the north.

Kunming Dounan Flower Market

After the flower market, our Yunnan trip came to an end.

October 2020