The Second of Life's Three Great Regrets: The Yunnan Matsutake Chicken Soup That Was Right at Her Lips but She Never Tasted
While chatting today, I just settled on the title for our Yunnan travelogue, once again poking at Ah Zhang's heart and bringing tears to my eyes.
Looking back on Yunnan, I've already forgotten many details, even though it's only been a year. There's so much I want to hold onto, but now I realize only a few things truly stick. I hope this travelogue helps us remember every important moment.
I never used to think much of Yunnan; it felt like the kind of place my parents' generation would enjoy. But after a friend visited Xishuangbanna, it began to seem pretty good. I can't quite recall how we settled on Yunnan—probably just a casual "any plans for the National Day holiday?" and then it was decided. My impression of Yunnan completely changed after visiting Shangri-La and Lugu Lake. Breathtaking mountains, stunning waters, gorgeous scenery—that's Yunnan in a nutshell.
1. Prep: around 6,000 RMB per person
1. Flights (approx. 1,500 RMB per person)
2019-10-03 Guangzhou to Shangri-La, China Eastern MU5774, 07:55–10:55
2019-10-10 Kunming to Guangzhou, China Southern CZ3490, 22:00–00:20
Considering the crowds during the National Day holiday and the high altitude, the classic Yunnan route usually goes from Dali and Lijiang up to Shangri-La. To avoid the masses, we opted to fly directly to Shangri-La and travel counterclockwise. It turned out to be a great call—there were hardly any tourists in Shangri-La those days, and by the time we reached Lijiang and Lugu Lake, most travelers were already heading back. The catch: you need to be in decent shape. Shangri-La sits at over 3,000 meters above sea level, and one of our friends, unfortunately, suffered from altitude sickness.
2. Accommodation (approx. 1,500 RMB per person)
There are plenty of lodging options in Yunnan. We mostly booked guesthouses, and every host we met was incredibly kind, giving us a taste of local life and customs.
3. Local transport (approx. 800 RMB per person)
There are tourist buses connecting the different areas of Yunnan. The bus rides from Shangri-La to Lijiang and from Lijiang to Lugu Lake each took about five to six hours. For local travel, we hired private cars—safety first since we were three girls, and it saved time. Guesthouse hosts typically offer such services. In Shangri-La and Lugu Lake especially, we arranged car hire through our hosts.
4. Shangri-La is high-altitude territory, so we started taking Rhodiola a week in advance. Many say it doesn't do much, but better safe than sorry. We also brought glucose and other supplies just in case, ready to use oxygen if anyone felt unwell.
2020-10-03 Guangzhou – Shangri-La – Shika Snow Mountain – Dukezong Ancient Town
2020-10-04 Dukezong Ancient Town – Pudacuo – Dukezong Ancient Town
2020-10-05 Dukezong Ancient Town – Balagezong – Dukezong Ancient Town
2020-10-06 Dukezong Ancient Town – Napahai – Songzanlin Monastery – Lijiang
2020-10-07 Lijiang – Lugu Lake
2020-10-08 Lugu Lake – Lijiang
2020-10-09 Lijiang – Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – Lijiang Old Town
2020-10-10 Lijiang – Kunming – Guangzhou
When planning our Yunnan itinerary, we were most keen on Shangri-La and Lugu Lake. With limited time, we had to choose between Dali and Lijiang. Looking at the map, we realized we'd need to go through Lijiang anyway to reach the other two, so Dali was dropped.
DAY 1: Guangzhou – Shangri-La – Shika Snow Mountain – Dukezong Ancient Town
Originally, Ah Zhang had something on and we were supposed to leave on the 4th. But with such a short trip, we figured it was better to arrive a day early and soak up local life. So, ZZ and I set off on the 3rd. Our guesthouse host picked us up from the airport. Shangri-La is small, and the airport isn't far from the old town. As soon as we landed, we felt the chill of high altitude. The weather was gorgeous—blue sky, fluffy white clouds—and the view from our guesthouse window was stunning.
At lunch, we randomly picked a small place and tried Tibetan-style pork, delicious yak butter tea, barley cakes, and yogurt.
I was hesitant about hitting a snow mountain on the first day since you shouldn't overexert yourself at altitude. But with half a day to kill and not wanting to waste it, we decided to go. The other sights could wait for Ah Zhang, and we'd see a snow mountain near Lijiang later anyway, so we picked Shika Snow Mountain. Shangri-La has several snow mountains, with Meili Snow Mountain being the most famous, but it's far and usually requires a two-day trip. So we had to skip it this time—maybe next time.
There's a cable car up and down. ZZ and I agreed it was probably the oldest, shakiest cable car we'd ever taken. Every time it paused at a support tower, the car swayed and made creaky, squeaky sounds. At high altitude, we both moved super slowly. The oxygen vendor at the ticket gate asked if we wanted to buy some, and when we said no, he teased us: "There won't be any zhaxi to help you up there!" It took us a moment to get the joke, probably due to oxygen deprivation, and we wanted to laugh but didn't dare. Near the summit, there's a short path to climb, and we had to stop every ten steps or so to catch our breath. The wind up there howled, and the clouds were beautiful. We'd just stand there, resting and watching clouds drift by—cold yet so relaxing. A few days ago, chatting with ZZ, we both agreed Shika Snow Mountain was truly stunning, even if the wind was so fierce we could barely take it in.
Dukezong Ancient Town has lots of great small eateries, mostly run by locals, and you can find them on review sites. We picked a place serving Tibetan hotpot. We planned to save yak meat hotpot for when our friend arrived because it's a local specialty, so we ordered chicken hotpot. The place was busy that evening. The owner seated us by the TV, and we ate while watching a Tibetan language lesson, wondering why the same few words kept looping. We were thoroughly entertained. The yak butter tea was so good that ZZ and I polished off an entire pot. Outside, it was freezing—inside, the little restaurant was toasty.
DAY 2: Dukezong Ancient Town – Pudacuo – Dukezong Ancient Town
We found a highly-rated earthenware pot barley noodle shop online. In the morning, we walked clear across the old town to the outskirts to find it. I don't quite remember the taste anymore, but I recall it was really good—other tourists even asked us what we had ordered. After eating, we strolled the quiet, peaceful lanes of the old town, turned the giant prayer wheel (it takes ten people to move it), and got a bird's-eye view of Dukezong by daylight.
Finally, Ah Zhang arrived around noon. She was in high spirits and wanted to order this and that, but by the time we got to Pudacuo, she was down for the count. Good thing we'd listened to our host and brought oxygen. From the scenic area bus drop-off to the main site, there's a bit of a walk, and Ah Zhang, hit with altitude sickness that triggered gastritis, was vomiting the whole way—so miserable. Only Shudu Lake was open at Pudacuo, but thanks to returning a drone propeller for a friend of our host, we got to take photos by the lake. The weather wasn't great, but Pudacuo's beauty still shone through. As we walked the lakeside boardwalk, a light rain started. Ah Zhang finished one oxygen canister, then bought another in the scenic area—not sure if it was 50 or 100 RMB. ZZ walked part of the way with someone's discarded raincoat packaging on her head—a bit pitiful but funny, shame I didn't sneak a photo. And the M&M's from our host's friend while poor Ah Zhang suffered alongside us made the whole experience oddly special.
On the way back, we stumbled upon a gorgeous sunset—one half blue, the other orange, like a clash of ice and fire. ZZ complained I didn't get the shot she wanted, but that scene is etched in our minds, isn't it?
Fresh matsutake mushrooms were already scarce in October. The day before, our host asked if we wanted some because it needed ordering in advance; the matsutake chicken soup takes most of a day to simmer. Ah Zhang was adamant, so we placed the order for that evening. It was divine—the umami of the matsutake and the chicken melded just right, light, fresh, and sweet. A huge pot, absolutely brimming. Ah Zhang went to lie down in her room after we got back; she had no appetite. ZZ climbed the steep stairs with a bowl of piping-hot soup and literally held it to Ah Zhang's lips, but still she couldn't drink it. Embarrassed to ask the host to reheat it multiple times, we gave the leftovers to his border collie, Guodong. The next morning, Ah Zhang woke up full of regret, asking why we hadn't saved it for her. This year, we've been frequenting Tibetan bars, and poor Ah Zhang, though she's had fresh matsutake, has never once caught the soup. This will probably be a lifelong regret—hahaha.
DAY 3: Dukezong Ancient Town – Balagezong – Dukezong Ancient Town
After oxygen and a good night's rest, Ah Zhang was back in top form. Our host was hosting friends that day, so he arranged a local driver, a Tibetan guy who was funny, a bit shy, and quite cute. The drive to Balagezong is long, and he played his favorite songs the whole way, quietly singing along. He even helped us take those photos with impossibly long legs (two meters, maybe?) 😊
The weather on plateau is so unpredictable—freeze without a jacket, sweat when you bring one. The summit of Balagezong was warm, and we walked so much we didn't feel cold at all. The sightseeing bus had an audio introduction about Balagezong that was very touching; you can look it up online in advance if you're interested. The scenic area is huge, with shuttles between spots. The view from the highest point was spectacular—blue sky, white clouds, towering gorges, pure bliss.
That evening, we went to a highly-ranked yak meat hotpot joint in the old town. The meat portions were incredibly generous. Ah Zhang originally wanted to order two pots, since she'd missed the chicken hotpot. Hah, she overestimated us—we were stuffed with just one pot.
During the holiday, the old town had activities every night. After dinner, we strolled around and saw many people dancing the guozhuang; it was so lively.
DAY 4: Dukezong Ancient Town – Napahai – Songzanlin Monastery – Lijiang
Autumn's Napahai was shrouded in a thin layer of mist, a bit like us when we're groggy and half-awake. When traveling, everything seems fascinating; even grazing cattle on the roadside became photo-worthy. They say that during rainy season, the water covers the road, making it look like a sea.
Songzanlin Monastery, nicknamed the Little Potala Palace, is a must-see in Shangri-La. Whenever I'm in such a place, my whole body and mind relax—perhaps that's the power of faith.
At noon, our Tibetan driver took us to a small eatery he and his friends frequent. The lady owner was quite the character. The matsutake chicken here couldn't compare to our guesthouse's, but every dish was unique, especially the yogurt residue. Huddling around a little stove to eat felt amazing, like gathering around the heater at Grandma's during Chinese New Year—homey vibes.
We'd pre-booked bus tickets to Lijiang on Ctrip. The journey was about five or six hours, passing the Jinsha River, and it was dark when we arrived. We found a popular spare ribs hotpot place—great value, only about 30 RMB per person and we were stuffed. We even gave our leftovers to the guys at the next table, haha.
The old town has lots of little jewelry shops with super cheap earrings; we bought over a dozen pairs together and left reluctantly.
DAY 5: Lijiang – Lugu Lake
Early morning, we hopped on the bus to Lugu Lake, but there was a small hiccup. Lugu Lake straddles Yunnan and Sichuan, and we'd booked a guesthouse on the Sichuan side. The bus driver said he only stopped at Sanjiacun, not the stops listed online, and insisted our place was too far. He kept pressuring us to cancel and let him find us accommodation. Unfamiliar with the area, we agonized over it and nearly canceled, but in the end, we stuck with our booking for budget reasons. We called our host over a dozen times, and when we finally arrived that evening, we were so relieved we hadn't switched. Just one tiny regret: the host had offered on the platform to make us persimmon beef stew that night, but I missed the message—I could've cried.
We'd originally planned to circle the lake the next morning, but after learning about the route, our lodging location, and the weather, we decided to do it right after arriving instead. A good move. Our host arranged a car, and the driver took us to a phenomenal local steamed fish pot first—absolutely delicious!
The biggest stroke of luck throughout the trip was meeting such great drivers. They'd chat with us about local customs and share their stories. The lake tour started overcast, but the sun broke through beautifully, and we even saw some rare ottelia acuminata (water flowers) still blooming. The driver took us to every spot, and when we passed a cornfield and wanted to take a look, he even gave us two ears of corn, which we later regifted to our host. He mentioned he was building his own guesthouse and promised we could stay for free next time—hope he remembers that, haha.
On Walking Marriage Bridge, a guy and an old man offered drone videos. To save a few bucks, we sent ZZ to befriend the young guy on WeChat, haha. They ended up chatting up a storm. Back at the guesthouse that night, we told our host the story, and he teased ZZ along with us, saying the guy should come practice "walking marriage" and they'd give him a free room. Haha, still cracks me up.
After the lake tour, we finally reached our guesthouse at dusk. We were so, so glad we didn't switch, didn't give up our original choice. It was right on the shore of Lugu Lake, with our room facing the water and a little balcony with two lounge chairs. Ah Zhang and I collapsed into them immediately—perfection.
Our host, Gang, told us there was a performance at a nearby art center that evening with guozhuang dancing. With nothing else planned, we bought tickets. During an audience participation segment, ZZ and I, ever the troublemakers, shoved Ah Zhang onto the stage. Now I chuckle thinking of her being tossed in the air by five or six Mosuo guys after singing.
After the show, it was raining. We called Gang, and he came to pick us up right away. Back at the guesthouse, we sat at the front desk chatting with Gang and another host. Gang, a Northerner, was a master storyteller. To test if his dog really could drink booze as he claimed, we opened a beer—and sure enough, that dog could drink! Amazing! That aimless, chatty night was kind of enchanting, and I miss it.
DAY 6: Lugu Lake – Lijiang
Early morning, Lugu Lake was still hazy. Ah Zhang and I, still in our pajamas, went for a walk by the water—a bit chilly but deeply refreshing. We tidied up, had the rice noodles the auntie made at the front desk, and while waiting for ZZ, I grabbed a coffee in the courtyard, gazing at the distant lake—instant peace. Afterward, we rented e-bikes and rode to Lover's Bay. Ah Zhang's bike skills were good; she even joked about wanting a motorbike.
Near noon, we reluctantly said goodbye to the host (mostly because we didn't want to leave) to catch the bus back. It was evening again when we reached Lijiang. The path to our guesthouse in the old town wasn't great, and two young staffers came out to help with our luggage. We went for a casual wander in the old town that night.
DAY 7: Lijiang – Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – Lijiang Old Town
Since we weren't that into old towns, we didn't plan much time in Lijiang, focusing mainly on Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Because of Ah Zhang's previous altitude sickness, we'd stopped at a pharmacy the night before for oxygen and glucose. There's a direct bus from the old town to the mountain; just mind the schedule. We played around at the entrance for a while—there's a big forest that looks gorgeous in wide shots. After a light meal at the scenic area's buffet and some glucose, we headed up. The ascent was smoother than expected; we moved very slowly, hardly needed oxygen. The wind was strong at the top, and we had to pause every ten or twenty steps, everyone bundled up tightly. Bothered by some little issues at the time, we even shouted a few curses up there—looking back, it feels like an insult to the sacred mountain. Those trivial things don't matter at all.
Down below, Blue Moon Valley had waters of a deep, shimmering blue, somewhat reminiscent of New Zealand lakes, haha. Lots of people were taking wedding photos there.
In the evening, the guesthouse staff organized a game of Werewolf, and that's when we realized just how many young guys worked there. It was fun.
DAY 8: Lijiang – Kunming – Guangzhou
Honestly, I can't recall why we went back through Kunming—maybe more flights, maybe cheaper tickets. Whatever the reason, it was worth it.
The guesthouse offered photo sessions, and we booked one in advance. The moment I climbed onto the rooftop, I really wasn't "nervous"—though my toes gave me away! The final photos were so-so, haha. After the shoot, we rushed to try the host-recommended chicken soup rice noodles, but with the time crunch, they didn't taste that special. Then we grabbed a taxi to the train station.
With a flight around 10 p.m., we decided to have dinner in Kunming. We checked online and picked Dai-style hand-grasped rice. That meal alone justified the Kunming detour. We ordered a set for three for just over 100 RMB. It came with lots of side dishes, each one delicious, and the pounded coconut drink was fantastic. The three of us couldn't finish, but it was too good to waste, so we packed the leftovers and took them back to Guangzhou. We've since tried to find hand-grasped rice there but, sadly, no luck.
After dinner, we bought boxes of Jiahua flower cakes as souvenirs—maybe dozens of boxes. Friends say the freshly baked ones are indeed excellent.
Maybe you only truly discover a place's beauty when you go yourself. This trip completely changed my view of Yunnan. There are so many places I'd like to revisit—twice, or many times. Recently, direct flights from Guangzhou to Lugu Lake have opened, and we're already planning a return trip, though the pandemic makes it uncertain. Fingers crossed!
