【GO WITH ME】5 Days & 4 Nights: Encounter Lijiang, the City of Romance
Not long ago, I quit my job and suddenly felt an immense sense of relief, as if breaking free from a sea of misery.
The emotions I had bottled up for two and a half years finally scattered the moment I handed in my resignation. Both body and mind felt utterly refreshed. I don’t think this feeling will ever be easily forgotten, no matter how much time passes.
I'm someone who doesn't care much for rituals but can be demanding about them at times. This time, I wanted to welcome a new beginning in a special way, so I chose an impromptu, go-as-you-please trip.
Day 1: Dayan Ancient Town
Dayan Ancient Town is one of China’s most famous old towns. Visiting Lijiang without strolling through it would be a real pity. The streetside shops each have their own character, offering everything from snacks to trinkets. In some unnamed alleys, you might even stumble upon a wonderful Naxi ethnic performance.
I came across this performance purely by chance, just wandering around. That’s the joy of travel — you never know what you’ll see or hear next.
In truth, Dayan Ancient Town is heavily commercialized. If not for the traditional Naxi architecture and the towering snow-capped mountains in the distance, you might think you were in Dali or Chengdu.
So, if you want to see the most original and unspoiled Lijiang old town, head to Shuhe Ancient Town. The day I went, I saw a Naxi woman washing her hair by the river, exactly like in a period drama.
Day 2: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain
Afraid of getting too tired, I arranged the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain visit on the second day. Again, I signed up for a group tour at my inn; they provided round-trip transport, a padded jacket for the mountain, and an oxygen canister—no worries at all.
The day I climbed the mountain, the weather didn’t cooperate—it was drizzly and overcast. Fortunately, I still got to see Blue Moon Valley and White Water River. Blue Moon Valley is like a sapphire set at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, almost opaque, with an unfathomable deep blue when you look down.
Equally bottomless, White Water River is a milky white color, cascading down terraced steps with gentle trickling water—a beauty I’d never seen before.
After taking the scenic area shuttle bus, I finally arrived at the cable car station, feeling both excited and nervous. The cable car moves quickly, over dense pine forests. The higher you go, the thicker the snow and the sparser the trees—the vertical climate zones’ impact on vegetation is strikingly clear.
At the summit, I reached the viewing platform. All I could see was a blanket of white; the distant mountains were completely hidden, visibility was extremely low. Normally, from the platform there’s a stretch you can climb, but it was closed due to the weather. A bit of a pity, but no worries—I can always come back!
Day 3: Walking the Ancient Tea Horse Road — Exploring Lashihai
Again, I joined a group tour from the inn. I have to say, Lijiang’s attractions are very spread out—each visit usually takes a full day—so joining a group tour with pickup and drop-off is super convenient.
The first stop was the Ancient Tea Horse Road. Riding a horse along narrow mountain trails felt like traveling back in time. On very steep slopes, the horse would sometimes stumble, making us riders tense up. Then the young Naxi horseman would shout, 'Lean forward uphill, lean back downhill!' Following his rhythm, we stopped feeling scared.
This was definitely the longest horse ride I’d ever taken, and the only time I’ve been so close to a horse. Sitting in the saddle, the horse felt like a friend, one that could take you anywhere you wanted to go.
After the Tea Horse Road, we headed to a resort near Lashihai in the afternoon. The sky was unbelievably blue, and Lashihai was stunningly beautiful. After lunch, I went to the lakeside and asked the staff for a pink boat. I spent the whole afternoon drifting on the crystal-clear lake; when I got tired of paddling, I lay back, basking in the sun and tranquility. Then I’d paddle on to see scenery farther out.
Occasionally, I’d lose control and bump into another boat, but there was nothing to worry about—just a gentle push and we’d safely glide past each other, leaving only laughter behind. It was part of the fun!
Day 4–5: Lugu Lake
The beauty of Lugu Lake is truly beyond words.
The deep blue sky is dotted with big white clouds, while the crystal-clear Lugu Lake is embraced by green mountains. The whole scene needs not a single touch of embellishment—any more would be superfluous, any less would feel empty. This combination of blue sky, white clouds, clear lake, and green trees is simply breathtaking.
You don’t need a fancy DSLR or professional gear—just a phone snap and even the clumsiest photographer can capture gorgeous scenery. So, Lugu Lake is definitely a paradise for photography enthusiasts.
The drive from Lijiang to Lugu Lake took about five or six hours on a long, bumpy road that wasn’t in great shape. A tip for motion-sickness-prone friends: take your pills beforehand!
By the time we arrived at Lugu Lake, it was afternoon—the sunniest and most pleasant time of day. We first took a boat to a small island in the center to see the little monkeys. Then, we visited a Mosuo family’s home and had dinner. That meal was the best I had in Lijiang: abundant and very much suited to Han Chinese tastes.
After dinner, as the sky slowly darkened, our driver took us to the Walking Marriage Bridge and the Sea of Grass. Silence surrounded us as a flaming sunset sank low. We chatted and laughed; two of the guys made funny faces, scaring the girls into huddling behind them, not daring to lag a single step.
When night fell, the Mosuo bonfire party began. The small courtyard was packed with tourists from all over. The Mosuo people wore traditional costumes and sang and danced around the fire. The atmosphere was so infectious that you couldn’t help but sing and dance along. It was one of the liveliest and most fun bonfire parties I’ve ever been to (though this record was later surpassed by one I attended in Xishuangbanna).
The next day, a few friends had planned to get up early for the sunrise, but they bailed on me. I ended up alone, waiting from dim dawn until the sun was high. Though I didn’t catch the sunrise, I witnessed another kind of beauty: sunlight streamed through gaps in the clouds, gilding the distant snow mountains—it was equally stunning.
After breakfast, the sky was still overcast, but that didn’t dampen our spirits to explore more of Lugu Lake. We went to Lugu Lake Town for another breakfast, then returned to the lakeside to take photos with the colorful 'pig-trough' boats. That’s also where we took our only group photo of the trip.
When you think about it, fate is truly a magical thing—who you meet and who you end up with in life is all up to fate.
I had booked a two-day, one-night trip to Lugu Lake at the inn. Early the next morning, the driver picked me up near a school close to the inn. There were already two couples in the van: the older couple from Beijing, the younger one from Xi’an. Once the last guy was picked up, our little group officially set off.
With four young people together, I figured the trip wouldn’t be boring. And as I expected, we quickly got to know each other and hit it off—no awkwardness at all.
We took photos together, giving each other posing tips. We joined the bonfire party hand in hand, singing and dancing like the local Mosuo people.
After the party, we went to the young couple’s room, sipping hot fruit tea on the balcony, watching moonlight spill over the shimmering lake, and chatting endlessly about everything under the sun.
They came from Beijing, they from Xi’an, he from Chengdu, and I from Qingdao. I never imagined I’d make so many friends on a single trip. Because of them, this Lijiang journey will always stay with me.
Many say Lijiang is the city of romance, but I, a complete romance-repellant, ended up meeting a group of friends. To me, this kind of joy feels more genuine and real.
Grateful for these encounters, which doubled my happiness!
Whenever I think of Lugu Lake, I think of that blue sky, those waters, and these friends. If one day I have such free time again, I’ll come back, find a simple place to stay for a while, listen only to dogs barking and birds singing, the wind and the water, with nothing but a calm lake and graceful peaks before my eyes. No thoughts of work or life, no dwelling on the past or worrying about the future—just staying in the present moment and savoring its beauty.
If you ask me what’s fun to do in Lijiang, I could talk for hours. But if you ask about good food, my answer might disappoint you.
Free-range chicken hotpot and rice noodles are the most common foods in Lijiang. Truth be told, they’re very lightly seasoned, with little oil. Even I, who don’t like heavy flavors, wasn’t too keen on them, let alone those who prefer bold tastes.
Also, there’s one local specialty you must try: flower cake. In Dayan Ancient Town, shops selling flower cakes are everywhere; you can buy freshly baked ones—they’re super tasty.
The most famous flower cake shop in Lijiang is Jiahua. Their prices are fair, the taste is good, and if you buy in bulk, they even ship it for free—pretty great overall!
When traveling in Lijiang, staying in Dayan Ancient Town is by far the most convenient; the hundreds of inns in all kinds of styles will surely meet your needs.
Compared to hotels, I find inns full of warmth. From the owner to the staff, the relationship with guests isn’t just transactional; it’s more like fellow travelers. You can have drinks, play cards or board games with them, or ask for routes and tips. In short, don’t treat them as ordinary shopkeepers—befriending them might add even more fun to your trip.
Handy Tips:
💗 The saying 'wear padded jackets in the morning and gauze at noon' perfectly describes Lijiang this season. I foolishly thought Yunnan was like spring all year round and didn’t bring warm clothes, so I ended up frozen and had to dash to a mall to buy a down jacket. Learn from my mistake—bring warm clothes!
💗 Lijiang sits at a low latitude and high altitude, so sunlight and UV rays are intense. Ladies, make sure to slather on sunscreen, or you’ll tan a couple of shades without even trying. Also, bring sunglasses, especially on bright days—you’ll protect your eyes and look stylish at the same time.
💗 Many friends worry about altitude sickness before visiting Yunnan. Actually, it’s not too bad—I barely felt anything, even at the top of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain; I hardly used my oxygen canister. But it varies from person to person. If you’re concerned, you can drink rhodiola tea a week in advance. And once you’re up the mountain, it’s good to use some oxygen; if you wait until altitude sickness hits, it’s too late.
