Dali, Lijiang, Shangri-La: A 7-Day DIY Travel Guide to Northwest Yunnan

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Let's go to Yunnan!

I first went to Dali this May, and since then, almost every month I've made a trip to Yunnan. Kunming, Yuxi, Dali, Lijiang, Shangri-La – I've left my footprints in every city, and I have a few favorite photos from each place. After sorting through seven Yunnan trips, I've stayed up late to compile this 7-day DIY travel guide to Northwest Yunnan just for you.

I wonder if you're also planning a similar itinerary: to see the poetic charm of Dali (wind, flowers, snow, and moon), to encounter the gentle romance of Lijiang Old Town, and to find your own earthly paradise in Shangri-La.

[About the Itinerary]

Day1: Fly directly to Kunming, then take a bullet train to Dali; explore Dali Old Town; stay at Nanguo Boutique Guesthouse

Day2: Dali Old Town, cycling around Erhai Lake by e-scooter, Chongsheng Temple and the Three Pagodas

Day3: Xizhou Ancient Town, Shuanglang; stay at Canghai Suji

Day4: Shaxi Ancient Town, then arrive in Lijiang; stay at Arro Khampa in Lijiang

Day5: Horse riding across Seven Immortals Lake, Lijiang Old Town

Day6: Arrive in Shangri-La, Dukezong Ancient Town; stay at Arro Khampa in Shangri-La

Day7: Drive from Shangri-La to Lijiang International Airport, return journey

[Transportation Tips]

Kunming: As the capital of Yunnan Province, Kunming has very convenient transportation. This year, Kunming Changshui International Airport has become one of the busiest airports in China in terms of passenger traffic, with direct flights from most major cities. We chose to fly directly from Quanzhou to Kunming, then took the airport shuttle bus to Kunming Railway Station for 35 yuan. The journey takes about 35 minutes—not too far.

Dali: Dali also has an airport, but the flight options are relatively limited. You can transit in Kunming, with one flight in the morning and one in the evening. However, we opted for the high-speed train from Kunming to Dali, which takes 2 hours and costs 145 yuan.

Lijiang: Lijiang International Airport firmly holds the position as Yunnan's second-largest airport, with many busy routes. There's no high-speed train from Dali to Lijiang, only regular trains, but from Kunming there is a direct high-speed train to Lijiang. We set out from Dali, though, and didn't take the train; instead, we rented a car and drove to Lijiang via Shaxi Ancient Town. There are also many shared car options from Dali to Lijiang, taking about 3 hours and costing around 100 yuan per person.

Shangri-La: Shangri-La is the capital of Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. It has an airport, but no expressways or railways have been opened yet. It's perhaps the trickiest destination to reach in Northwest Yunnan. Leaving from Lijiang Old Town, we drove to Shangri-La. You can first take a section of the expressway, then switch to the national highway. The whole drive takes about 4 hours.

Flying directly from Quanzhou to Yunnan, a three-hour journey brings you to the 'Spring City' of Kunming, and then you head westward to Dali. There are many ways to get from Kunming to Dali, the fastest being by plane—just over an hour—followed by the 2-hour bullet train we took. They say the beauty of Dali lies in the wind of Xiaguan, the flowers of Shangguan, the snow on Cangshan Mountain, and the moon reflected in Erhai Lake. But for me, the white clouds drifting across the blue sky are also one of Dali's most beautiful sights.

Take bus No. 8 from Dali Railway Station, and for just 3 yuan you'll reach Dali Old Town. With Cangshan Mountain at its back and facing Erhai Lake, this square-shaped old town carries a thousand years of history and culture. Finding accommodation in Dali is not difficult. If you want to avoid the noise of the old town but still be close by, I recommend the Nanguo Boutique Guesthouse in the Miwan Tourism & Culture Town.

Just 500 meters from the old town, Miwan is a quiet spot. Nanguo Guesthouse is set in a Bai-style building. The guesthouse has only a dozen or so rooms. The 'light luxury honeymoon king room' is 35 square meters, blending Japanese and Nordic styles for a fresh, simple, relaxed, and warm feel. The room uses star-hotel standard bedding and custom toiletries. Although it's a guesthouse, the service and facilities are very standardized. At night, you'll receive a cup of warm milk, and breakfast is served in the lobby on the ground floor.

The lobby on the first floor is spacious, with a free tea station where you can brew tea and chat with friends. Overall, I'd recommend the guesthouse for its location, value, and service.

Walking from Nanguo to the old town takes about 15 minutes. In the early afternoon, looking at Cangshan Mountain, a belt of clouds shrouds the summit like a white cap of snow. Sunrays stream through gaps in the clouds and illuminate the land—a phenomenon considered a marvel elsewhere but seemingly an everyday occurrence in Dali. This scene is especially magnificent viewed from Haidong looking toward Haixi, or from a drone's perspective.

Walking along the old town's streets, Renmin Road seems to stretch straight from the foot of Cangshan Mountain eastward to the shores of Erhai Lake, bustling with tourists and lively shops. If you want a quieter spot, you can duck into the side alleys; maybe you'll find a few nice little shops there.

Like the books at Persimmon Tree Café, or the cats at Meow Island. Dali is very easy to find that artsy vibe, right in those ordinary lanes.

After walking around the old town and getting tired, we chose a highly-rated Yunnan cuisine restaurant for our first meal: Duan Gongzi Restaurant. It's located at the intersection of Upper Renmin Road and Bo'ai Road in Dali Old Town (150 meters west of Fuxing Road on Foreigner Street, near the South Gate Cangshan Gate). The restaurant is decorated in an antique style. A distinctive feature is the dragon throne in the hall on the ground floor, which many kids love – it's great for photos. They have tables for four and round tables for larger groups. The staff are dressed in period costumes, making you feel like you've stepped back into the ancient Dali Kingdom.

As a Yunnan cuisine restaurant, the 'Wind Flower Snow Moon Fish' is highly recommended. It's one of Duan Gongzi's signature dishes—you must try it. The fish is tender and tasty, with a mild sour-spicy flavor that suits most palates. The presentation is carefully crafted, and any muddy taste from the freshwater fish has been removed through their preparation.

The Dali Bai-style pepper-chili chicken uses local black-bone chicken, cut into small pieces for easy eating. It's loaded with fresh Sichuan peppercorns, giving a numbing sensation that's perfect with rice. Of course, when in Yunnan, you can't miss the mushrooms. The Cangshan wild mushrooms are definitely worth trying—don't worry, they won't make you see little stars (hallucinate). Only an authentic Yunnan restaurant can prepare wild mushrooms with such great flavor and appearance.

Duan Gongzi Restaurant is open daily from 11:30 to 22:30, with a per-person cost of about 95 yuan—very reasonable. After your meal, I suggest strolling along Renmin Road, or if it's too noisy, Yeyu Road is also a great choice. Every evening, many street vendors set up here, and on this not-so-long street, you'll find interesting people doing interesting things.

At Nanguo Guesthouse, sleep in and wake up naturally; even at 10 a.m., you won't feel like you're wasting time. Dali is about 1.5 hours behind Beijing time in terms of solar time, so it gets dark quite late. After a bowl of authentic Bai-style rice noodles made by the guesthouse auntie, I set out to capture aerial footage of the old town—a way to see Dali Old Town from above.

No-fly zones don't apply here; the airport is far away and there are no restricted areas nearby. But be careful not to fly too low, and watch out for mountain winds. From high up, the old town unfolds in its entirety. The Cangshan Gate, Southeast Gate, and Erhai Gate (East Gate) stand out. Especially the East Gate—it's said that it used to stand right on the edge of Erhai Lake. Due to changes in terrain and water resources, the lake has shrunk, creating the landscape we see today.

Besides the imposing city gates, the neat grid of intersecting streets connects every corner. The east-west Renmin Road always disorients me: I keep thinking Cangshan is to the north and Erhai Lake to the east, but actually they face each other east–west.

For lunch today, we went to Jin Hua Xiao A Mei on Renmin Road, a restaurant serving traditional Dali flavors. It's at the intersection of Renmin Road and Bo'ai Road, open from 11 a.m. The decor is retro Chinese, with a photo wall displaying old memories of Dali—worth a look. The waitstaff wear distinctive local costumes, adding character. If you eat there, remember to pick up a Dali travel guide; it's quite handy.

Although it's a Yunnan cuisine restaurant, they've integrated many Sichuan and Cantonese cooking techniques, making it easily accepted by the masses. These kinds of restaurants tend to do well in tourist spots and quickly build a good reputation. Their signature dish, A Mei Bao Jiang Tofu, might look a bit like stinky tofu on the outside, but it's actually tender tofu that's been deep-fried and then coated in a specially thickened sauce. It's great with rice and very flavorful. The tofu pieces are big, and the portion is generous.

Cold chicken shreds with red rice noodles – an appetizing dish with a mild spiciness and a hint of sweetness, very much to the taste of southerners. It's a cold dish with soft noodles and chicken strips, and the sauce is poured on by the server after it's brought to the table. The free-range chicken herbal soup is great for nourishing your body in autumn and winter. What I liked most is that it comes with at least seven different types of mushrooms.

On a certain review platform, this restaurant ranks No. 1 among Dali specialty dining. In terms of flavor and value, it's highly recommended. After lunch, even though the UV radiation was intimidating (remember to apply sunscreen; this is extremely important in Dali!!!), we rented a small electric scooter to go cycling by Erhai Lake. Renting an e-scooter in Dali Old Town is very convenient; a small one costs around 60 yuan. If you're worried about getting ripped off, ask your guesthouse—they usually have reliable partners. Of course, besides e-scooters, you can rent a flashy plastic-looking sports car, but I don't recommend it because many spots by the lake are only accessible by scooter.

Starting from the old town, I recommend riding toward Cai Village. The road passes through fields and Bai farmers tending their crops. Follow Yuehua Road east to Cai Village Pier, and from there we chose to head north. The newly built boardwalks have indeed changed Erhai's landscape, and the travel environment has greatly improved. Along the way, there are many waterside curves perfect for taking photos.

By the shore, buildings are set back from the water; the lakeside is mostly wetlands. We mainly covered the stretch from Cai Village to Ma Jiuyi, stopping here and there, finding plenty of photogenic spots that only a scooter can reach. The ride of over three and a half hours wasn't that long, and it's not what most tourists would do, but I think it was enough time. Within that distance, you can capture many great shots; any longer and you might get tired of the scenery.

With our little scooter, we cut back from Ma Jiuyi to the Dali-Lijiang Highway and aimed for Chongsheng Temple, attracted by the fame of its Three Pagodas landmark. But in the end, the ticket price of over 100 yuan put us off, and it was getting late, so I flew my drone beside the temple, which counted as a visit to this 'Royal Monastery of Dali' rebuilt in 2005.

Before sunset, we returned the scooter to the old town and then went to a Yunnan restaurant on Renmin Road recommended by a friend. Jinshan - Century Old Courtyard Restaurant. The owner meticulously maintains this century-old courtyard and has developed Yunnan dishes tailored to tourists' tastes. Jinshan's owner was the first local restaurateur I met in Dali; my first impression might be that she loves to drink.

The century-old courtyard by Renmin Road is the owner's own house. The restaurant is divided into indoor and outdoor sections. If it's not raining, I highly recommend sitting outside. Dali's climate is extremely pleasant; even in summer there are no mosquitoes. You can tell the owner has put a lot of effort into tending the courtyard, with many green plants and succulents that are thriving. In the daytime, the courtyard would be perfect for photos.

The restaurant is open daily from 10:00 to 23:00. Besides many of their own innovative Yunnan specialties, their homemade liquor is also recommended. The 'Mushroom-Infused Water Cauliflower' – I've had water cauliflower in Dali many times, but the flavor here is the most unique. The key is the wine-infused mushrooms, which give this original dish its soul.

The signature passion fruit sour-spicy fish uses a new method: the sourness from passion fruit is natural and carries a light fruity aroma, very appetizing. Corn cakes – a staple, but could also be called a dessert. Made from cornmeal, they're a bit like bread. The recipe is the owner's own creation.

Overall, this restaurant set in a century-old courtyard is very down-to-earth, with good flavors and good value. Definitely recommended.

Renting a car is very convenient for getting around Dali. Today's destinations are Xizhou Ancient Town on the west bank and the social-media-famous Shuanglang across the lake. Both are lakeside towns by Erhai, but they offer completely different experiences.

From the old town, Xizhou is not far. Driving along the Dali-Lijiang Highway takes about half an hour. If you can't drive, there's a bus from the old town to Xizhou that costs 7 yuan per person – note, it's exactly 7 yuan! Xizhou Ancient Town is a famous historical and cultural town in Yunnan, which writer Lao She once called a 'dignified old town'.

Enter Xizhou through the West Gate (Zhengyi Gate) on foot, and wander the town. Almost every traditional Bai-style residence has its own history and stories. In ancient times, Xizhou was an important stop on the Tea Horse Road, home to many wealthy merchants and renowned scholars.

Stroll along Xizhou's bluestone paths, leisurely crossing streets and alleys. The Yan Family Compound near Sifang Street, along with the Dong Family Compound and Yang Family Compound, are well worth seeing. But tourists love most the Instagram-famous Corner Tower and the Xilinyuan in the fields—the most photographed spots of Xizhou online.

Of course, if you ask when Xizhou is at its most beautiful, I believe many would say in autumn during the rice harvest. In late September this year, I happened to catch the golden fields of Xizhou.

If you go to Xizhou, I highly recommend spending a full day there. Stay in a small courtyard like Huanxi, and sample Bai snacks like Xizhou baba (baked flatbread). The Xizhou Parlor and the Xizhou Farming Museum are also great places to take photos and zone out.

Compared to Xizhou, my first impression of Shuanglang wasn't what I expected. Quoting a friend, she said Shuanglang feels like a reconstructed antique commercial district in a city—loud and flashy. But as Dali's most internet-famous destination, Shuanglang has its own appealing highlights.

Driving from Xizhou to Shuanglang takes about 40 minutes; from the old town, it's farther—over an hour. If you drive, the navigation often suggests the expressway, but it's not necessary; the expressway is actually a bit of a detour and takes about the same time. There are also shuttle buses from the old town to Shuanglang, though you might have to wait a bit.

They say the best scenery of Dali is at Cangshan and Erhai, and the best of that is in Shuanglang, which has always been popular. Shuanglang Ancient Town is probably the best spot around Dali to admire Erhai Lake. Here you can experience the lake's beauty up close and gaze across to the lush Cangshan Mountain. When the weather is fine, the scenery is beyond words.

Besides the lovely natural scenery, the man-made photo spots are the main reason Shuanglang blew up online! The lakeside guesthouses with their 'sky mirrors' – nearly every visitor to Dali wants to snap a photo there. So even when Dali Old Town is sparse with tourists, Shuanglang still has a substantial number. In Shuanglang, you watch the sun set behind Cangshan's peak. Tonight, we'll stay somewhere where we can watch the sunrise: Jijian - Canghai Suji.

The guesthouse is in the Dali Canghai Golf International Community, at the foot of Cangshan Mountain, next to Chongsheng Temple and the Three Pagodas. This golf community is one of the highest-situated building complexes in Dali. At Canghai Suji, the sea-facing rooms overlook Erhai Lake. On a clear morning, you can lie in bed and watch the first rays of sunlight hit the lake. Being a bit away from the old town, you can also see a sky full of stars at night.

It's two connected villas, equipped with dining areas of various sizes, a multi-functional meeting room, a western-style bar, a Chinese tea bar, a cozy reading nook, an outdoor barbecue area, a laundry, and other personalized facilities. Butler service gives you a high-value experience.

We stayed in a sea-view king room with over 30 square meters. From there you can see the Three Pagodas and Erhai Lake not far away. The room is warm and comfortable, fully equipped, with TOTO bathroom fixtures and UK-imported SevenPlus toiletries.

Sleeping in the embrace of Cangshan, the first light of dawn sneaks through the curtain gap into the room. By afternoon, a wisp of mist lingers around the mountain's waist—perhaps this is the paradise city dwellers seek. Today, we set off from Dali to Lijiang, and the first stop is Shaxi Ancient Town, about two hours from the old town.

A friend said that Shaxi is his image of what Dali should be. For me, it's the same. Walking in Shaxi Ancient Town, on uneven bluestone paths, elderly Bai people in traditional attire move about the street corners. Old men sit under the cloister, their eyes full of stories. At that moment, it feels like stepping into another world; when you come back to yourself, you realize life can be so unhurried. Strolling through the alleys, the town's little dogs lounge at doorways, sunlight filters through leaves onto the ground, and visitors wander this isolated, independent old town—this is Dali.

I first heard about Shaxi from a post on a travel website, and after longing to visit for so long, I finally made it. I've never liked any old town as much as Shaxi. Most ancient towns I've visited seem cut from the same cloth, with old buildings reeking of commercialism. But Shaxi is very different. It preserves the pristine memories of the Tea Horse Road and exudes a strong sense of local life. So if you go to Dali, you must visit Shaxi.

If you ask what to see in Shaxi, I'd say Sideng Street. It's the heart of Shaxi. The Kuige Pavilion with its stage is one of the tallest structures in the old town. It's said that the one on Dali's Foreigner Street is a replica of it.

About 10 minutes' walk from Shaxi's central area, in a village, there's Yunnan's most beautiful bookstore: Librairie Avant-Garde Shaxi Bai Bookstore. It's far from the tourist center, in an unassuming village surrounded by fields. Perhaps its purpose goes beyond just making a profit.

The book selection here is rich with local cultural features. The cultural creative products that combine with local culture are the biggest highlight – items like Jiama prints, Wamao figurines, and tie-dye artworks, all with excellent craftsmanship. And of course, you have to check out the Poetry Tower in the bookstore.

It was already afternoon when we finished exploring Shaxi. The drive from Shaxi to Lijiang isn't short, but we could make it in about an hour before sunset. Arriving in Lijiang, we treated ourselves to a meal at an authentic restaurant in the old town. Lijiang Old Town is probably one of the hottest travel destinations this year. The restaurant we chose serves Yunnan ethnic cuisine in the old town: Dianxi Prince.

The restaurant's décor is as antique and charming as Lijiang Old Town itself. The interior showcases Yunnan's multi-ethnic culture through many details. I really liked the staircase—it's great for photos. Dianxi Prince opens from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Cars can't drive in, so you'll have to walk. Entering from the old town's northeast gate, you'll spot the restaurant after a few minutes on foot.

Being a fish lover, I'd first recommend their ethnic bamboo tube snow mountain fish—a very creative dish. The bamboo tube serves as the container, and sauce is poured over the fish from another tube after it's served. Beyond the perfect presentation, the fish is very tender, the special sauce masks any muddy taste, and there aren't many bones.

In Lijiang, the Naxi people are one of the main ethnic groups, so you must try Lijiang Naxi spareribs. This local dish is highly recommended: half ribs, half salad, a good mix of meat and greens. The cured spareribs are a Lijiang specialty, and this dish has a dry-pot style—very tasty.

Lastly, I'd recommend Yunnan's Zhengqi steam pot chicken, which is perfect for autumn and winter. With chicken as the main ingredient, steamed in a special pot with various seasonings, it's a nourishing soup that's great for boosting your health.

After dinner, we took a walk in Lijiang Old Town. The streets aren't very wide, and the flagstone paths have been polished smooth by countless visitors. Nighttime is probably the liveliest, especially in the bars along the streets. I'm not a fan of the boisterous old town, so I chose to stay in Shuhe Ancient Town, a bit removed from the old town. It's a manor with Naxi architectural features: Arro Khampa Qingyun Manor. The reason I picked this guesthouse has a lot to do with the owner, a story I'll share in tomorrow's itinerary.

Arro Khampa means 'Come, friend' in Tibetan. The biggest charm of this guesthouse might be the owner himself. Zhaba Gedan was once a monk; he speaks fluent English, Chinese, Tibetan, and Hindi. He loves dancing and yoga, and is a guardian and practitioner of local culture.

Arro Khampa Qingyun Manor features Naxi and Tibetan architectural styles. The interior decoration reflects strong ethnic character while also providing modern comfort and enjoyment.

We stayed in a 55-square-meter deluxe view room. Although it's a guesthouse, the experience is five-star. The bedding, bathroom facilities, and other amenities all meet and even surpass five-star hotel standards. Butler service adds a warm feeling of visiting a friend's home.

Arro Khampa has its own Western restaurant for breakfast, and I also recommend trying their copper hot pot for dinner one evening. A pot of beef, gathered with a few good friends, paired with the guesthouse's Tibetan beer—couldn't be more perfect.

Besides the restaurant, there's a small meeting room, a book bar, a terrace, a back garden, and a thangka studio. But for me, the coolest experience at Arro Khampa is riding horses with Mr. Zhaba across Seven Immortals Lake, retracing the ancient Tea Horse Road.

Starting from Arro Khampa, the ride takes about 5 hours. A professional horse team accompanies us, carrying equipment and our lunch supplies. Mounting the horses, we soon leave the village and enter the mountains. Uphill, downhill, through forests—after over an hour, we reach an open meadow. We rested there, watching clouds drift by and dancing with the Naxi companions.

Then we continued, the path narrowing, the vegetation denser. In some places, we had to lean close to the horse and bend low. Remember to wear long sleeves and pants for the Seven Immortals Lake trek, and protect yourself from the sun. After the rugged mountain trail, we finally arrived at a lake nestled in the mountains—like a paradise.

Gentle grassy slopes, a few abandoned wooden huts by the roadside—these are said to have been resting stations on the old Tea Horse Road. By the time we arrived, it was afternoon. We took out our prepared lunch and enjoyed it on a blanket with ethnic patterns. There was plenty of fruit and staples.

After lunch, we could have ridden deeper into the mountains, but we chose instead to meditate by the lake with Mr. Zhaba. By the water, on the grass, under the blue sky and white clouds—it was my first time experiencing life like that, completely relaxed in body and mind.

It took some time to return to Arro Khampa from where we were. Back in the room, we freshened up and rested—the day was still bright. We chose to have dinner in Lijiang Old Town at a restaurant near Sifang Street: Dian Yuan Private Kitchen, located on Wuyi Street between the Big Stone Bridge and Little Stone Bridge.

Dian Yuan Private Kitchen's frontage isn't large—just a single shopfront, but the entrance is quite impressive. It looks small from outside, but once inside, it's much more spacious. There's a separate kitchen and lots of carefully tended succulents. It's a photogenic old courtyard, with two floors and plenty of seating. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., but cars can't get there; you'll have to walk.

The top recommended dish is Dian Yuan's baojiang tofu, priced just over 40 yuan. It's my top pick: the tofu is fried, giving the exterior a rich texture, and when you bite into it, the inside is silky soft, combined with a secret sauce that's delicious. It goes great with rice, especially the sauce drizzled on top.

The Dian Yuan secret floral snow mountain fish: after eating a lot of fish in Yunnan, I'd still recommend this one. The fish is tender and without any muddy taste, plus the portion is generous.

Fried rice with tea tree mushroom and minced beef – a unique fried rice, the first time I've had such a combination. The flavor isn't heavy, and it pairs well with dishes. The rice is fried just right, with each grain distinct.

After dinner, the sun dips behind the western mountains, and the streets gradually fill with crowds. It was my first time in Lijiang, but I didn't fully take in the old town—that gives me a perfect excuse to return.

Driving from Lijiang to Shangri-La takes about three and a half hours—not a short trip. Currently, only a short section is expressway; most of it is national highway. But with friends and the passing scenery outside the window, time flies. Along the way, you could stop at Tiger Leaping Gorge if you're interested. Our destination was Arro Khampa in Dukezong Ancient Town, so we didn't stop there.

Some say summer is Shangri-La's most beautiful season, when the grasslands are covered with flowers of all colors. Unfortunately, we were short on time and could only stay one night in Dukezong Ancient Town. Perhaps because of the pandemic, there weren't many tourists; only a few people here and there in the old town.

Climb up Guishan Park in the old town, and from the steps of the Great Buddha Temple, you can overlook Dukezong Ancient Town and see the city of Shangri-La in the distance. The best spot to sit and admire the temple might be from the terrace of the Arro Khampa where we stayed.

Sitting on Arro Khampa's terrace, the main hall of the Great Turtle Temple is nearby, its golden brilliance strikingly vivid against the blue sky. Arro Khampa Nansoda Manor in Shangri-La is another of Mr. Zhaba's chain. The architecture is still Tibetan and Naxi in style, and the interior is similar to the one in Lijiang. The restaurant, bar, and other facilities are very complete.

The 36-square-meter deluxe view king room has a view of the temple. The room is equipped with a humidifier to make the dry Shangri-La air more comfortable for sleeping. After check-in, the butler brings snacks and milk—very thoughtful.

Shangri-La has many attractions, but with only one night, we didn't visit any. If you go to Shangri-La, I suggest staying at least three days to take your time visiting Pudacuo National Park, Shika Snow Mountain, Dukezong Ancient Town, and Ganden Sumtseling Monastery. Shangri-La offers more than what 'Lost Horizon' describes.

After one night in Shangri-La, our 7-day Northwest Yunnan trip neared its end. The return journey felt especially complicated because of the final Dukezong stop. We drove from Shangri-La to Lijiang Airport early in the morning, then flew to Changsha, and from there back to Quanzhou.

Northwest Yunnan has always been the most popular region for tourism in Yunnan. Dali, Lijiang, Shangri-La—each city has its own unique ethnic flavors and distinctive natural landscapes. Seven days can't cover all the mountains and rivers, nor can you fully savor the local customs and people. If you have enough time, I suggest a trip of 10 days or more.

[Accommodation]

In the same city, I prefer to stay with the same brand.

In Dali: near the old town, I'd recommend the Jijian-brand Nanguo Boutique Guesthouse and Canghai Suji. In Xizhou Ancient Town, the Huanxi Garden B&B is also highly recommended. If you stay in Shuanglang and want a first-line lake view, the newly renovated Lanting Bieyuan is also a great choice.

In Lijiang: Arro Khampa in Shuhe Ancient Town, and Hu Si Nian Yue in Lijiang Old Town are also very nice.

In Shangri-La: Arro Khampa and Saloyihe offer two completely different experiences.

These guesthouses can be found on major online travel platforms and B&B booking sites. Of course, there are countless guesthouses in Yunnan, and the choices will definitely be dazzling.

[Food]

Dali: Xizhou baba and ersi (rice noodle sheets) are must-tries. Duan Gongzi, Jinshan Century Old Courtyard, and Jin Hua Xiao A Mei are all good restaurants in the old town.

Lijiang: In the old town, Dian Yuan Private Kitchen and Dianxi Prince are safe bets.

Shangri-La: The Quiet Mani Stone Tibetan Restaurant is worth checking out.

[Costs]

Prices in Dali, Lijiang, and Shangri-La are not expensive, especially Dali which is very affordable. All the spots I visited on this itinerary had no entrance fees, so we spent nothing on tickets. Transportation between the three places was mainly by self-driving. Major travel costs haven't been high this year; especially in Yunnan, Hainan Airlines and China Eastern flights cover nearly everywhere. Overall, for a 7-day trip including round-trip transportation, one person's expense would be around 6,000 to 8,000 yuan.

[Things to Note]

The altitude in Northwest Yunnan is relatively high: Dali is around 1,800 meters, and Shangri-La surpasses 3,500 meters. So, be sure to protect yourself from the sun and stay hydrated. When going to Shangri-La, watch out for altitude sickness.

Additionally, Yunnan is a province with many ethnic minorities living together. When traveling there, be sure to respect local customs and beliefs, especially in Shangri-La.

Travelogue Contents

1. Foreword

2. [One] First encounter with Dali: beyond wind, flowers, snow, and moon, I love the clouds here

3. [Two] Cycling around Erhai Lake by electric scooter—a must-do in Dali

4. [Three] From west to east of Erhai: different experiences in Xizhou and Shuanglang

5. [Four] Shaxi Ancient Town, my image of Dali (and on to Lijiang today)

6. [Five] Retracing the Tea Horse Road—an amazing outdoor adventure

7. [Six] The final leg: Shangri-La

8. [Seven] A complicated return journey

9. Afterword - Various summaries

Travel Information

Hotel Index