Yunnan is an enchanting destination
Yunnan is a travel destination I have always longed to visit. The province boasts unique natural scenery and is home to the greatest diversity of ethnic groups in China, attracting countless visitors each year to explore its ethnic cultures and beautiful landscapes. I booked this trip about a month in advance, choosing the period from mid to late October, right after the National Day holiday.
We took a noon flight from Wuhan to Kunming, arriving in about two hours. At Kunming Airport, we took Metro Line 6, transferred to Line 2 at Tangzixiang, and got off at Kunming Railway Station. From there, we took a high-speed train to Dali. There are many daily high-speed trains between Kunming and Dali, and the journey takes about one hour. We arrived at Dali Railway Station around 6 p.m. Exiting the station, turn right and walk a few minutes to the bus stop. Take bus No. 8 and get off at the East Gate of Dali Ancient Town. A short walk brought us to our pre-booked guesthouse. The roads in the ancient town are paved with cobblestones and are quite uneven, so it’s best to carry your suitcase rather than drag it, otherwise the wheels can easily break.
Upon entering our room at the guesthouse, we had a pleasant surprise: a bouquet of fresh lilies and a complimentary plate of fruit were waiting for us. The travel fatigue instantly melted away, and my mood lifted. After unpacking and resting a bit, we went out to explore the streets. We bought local snacks like grilled rushan (dairy fan), ersi (rice threads), and erkuai (rice cakes) from street vendors. Without realizing it, we had filled up and skipped dinner, heading straight back to the guesthouse to rest.
Dali was our first stop on this trip. It is a national-level nature reserve and an outstanding tourist destination. The main ethnic minority here is the Bai people; it is China’s only Bai Autonomous Prefecture. During the Tang and Song dynasties, two local regimes—Nanzhao and the Dali Kingdom—were established here, and for over 500 years, Dali served as the political, economic, and cultural center of Yunnan. The novel Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils (Tianlongbabu) also has many references to Dali.
Today we woke up naturally and then went to a long-established rice noodle shop in the ancient town for a bowl of mixian. We planned to visit Erhai Lake. On the road outside the East Gate, there are minibuses to Shuanglang, a famous spot on the lake, with tickets costing 15 yuan per person. As we waited, a driver offered a shared ride to Shuanglang for 30 yuan per person. Eventually, with two seats to fill, we bargained it down to 20 yuan per person. The drive from the ancient town to Shuanglang takes about 50 minutes. You can also rent a car or a high-power electric scooter to tour around Erhai. The scooter rental is 80–100 yuan per day. The distance from Dali Ancient Town to Shuanglang is about 55 km, and riding an electric scooter takes about an hour—which is a bit tiring. Although it was the off-season, Shuanglang still had many tourists. There were numerous rental shops offering brightly colored convertible sports cars, which were stunning; many young couples rented them to take photos around the lake. Many others rented electric scooters for the loop. We rented one in Shuanglang for 50 yuan per day, just leaving an ID card as deposit, no cash needed.
We rode from Shuanglang to Wase and Xiaoputuo, then turned back. Unfortunately, Butterfly Spring was in the opposite direction, so we didn’t have enough time to visit it. After returning the scooter, we took a minibus back to Dali Ancient Town. At 'Eryue Xiaochu' (Er Lake Moon Kitchen), we bought a group deal for a mushroom hotpot for two. The hotpot was completely vegetarian, but a hotpot without meat feels incomplete, so we added a plate of beef rolls. After eating, we strolled around the ancient town a bit more before returning to the guesthouse to rest.
Our guesthouse was run by a family from Northeast China. They provided free breakfast—steamed buns with egg and celery filling, plus congee—which was very soothing for the stomach. We had pre-booked online a day tour ticket for the Cangshan Ximatan scenic area. We walked to the tour bus pick-up point outside the south gate of Dali Ancient Town. The staff handed each of us a 1-liter oxygen canister, just in case we needed it while climbing Cangshan. The scenic area bus took just a few minutes to reach Cangshan Ximatan. We then took a cable car up the mountain. This cable car is 5,555 meters long with a vertical height difference of 1,648 meters, reputed to be Asia’s longest and most technologically advanced ropeway. It has two sections, with a transfer in between, and the whole ride took over 30 minutes.
The cable car let us off at an elevation of 3,900 meters. We then followed a trail upward to Ximatan (Horse Washing Pool). Legend has it that Kublai Khan once washed his horse here, hence the name. The pool sits at about 4,000 meters. The trail was relatively gentle, so I didn’t feel very tired and didn’t use the oxygen. After enjoying the mountain for over an hour, we took the cable car back down. At the base station is the Tianlongbabu Film City. In Dali Ancient Town, we hadn’t seen the legendary Dali Palace or Prince Duan’s mansion, but the film city vividly recreates their splendor. There were also short performances by actors at irregular times. After visiting, we could take bus No. 10 right from the film city; it’s the starting point, and the route passes through the ancient town, stopping right at the gate of our guesthouse. We rested a bit, then went out for dinner, strolled around Dali a bit more, and went back to rest.
Cangshan Ximatan, Dali
Tianlongbabu Film City, Dali
Tianlongbabu Film City, Dali
Today we took a pre-booked bus to Lijiang. The guesthouse host drove us to the Leicuiyuan Bus Station at the south gate of Dali Ancient Town. We departed at 9:30 a.m. and arrived at the south gate of Lijiang Old Town around 12:30 p.m. We then took a taxi to the north gate; the metered fare was 11.9 yuan. Our guesthouse in Lijiang was just a few minutes’ walk from the north gate. Like Dali, the streets in Lijiang Old Town are paved with cobblestones and are quite bumpy. We called the host, who came to the north gate to help carry our luggage to the guesthouse. After checking in and resting, we went out for a meal around 2 p.m. at the 'Grandmother’s Preserved Ribs' restaurant, where we ordered a Naxi-style preserved rib hotpot. The ribs had a delicious, uniquely smoky flavor, and the price was reasonable, making it great value.
Lijiang Old Town sits at an elevation of 2,416 meters. Founded during the Song Dynasty, it has a history of over 800 years and is a major settlement of the Naxi ethnic minority. The town was built around water, with a dense network of canals, creating a charming environment. After our meal, we strolled through the old town in the light rain. Even though it wasn’t peak season, there were still lots of visitors. The houses along the streets are mostly shops. The old town features historical sites, traditional minority architecture, and countless scenes of little bridges over flowing streams—it’s a place that invites you to slow down and savor.
Grandmother’s Preserved Ribs in Lijiang
Day 5: Drizzle to moderate rain
We had booked online a day tour to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The previous night, we arranged with the driver to pick us up at the north gate of Lijiang Old Town at 9:30 a.m. The tour group had only five people, with the driver doubling as a guide. Each person was provided with a waterproof, warm jacket, bottled water, and a small oxygen canister free of charge. We visited Blue Moon Valley and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The driver gave us a brief introduction on the way. It’s about 20 km from Lijiang Old Town to the mountain, but the road was in poor condition, so the drive took 50 minutes.
First, we spent about 1.5 hours at Blue Moon Valley, a valley at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. On sunny days, the river water in the valley appears blue, and the valley itself is crescent-shaped, looking from a distance like a blue moon nestled at the mountain’s base—hence the name. For lunch, we had a group meal at the Blue Moon Valley restaurant: preserved chicken hotpot. After eating, the driver took us to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain itself. This is a national 5A-level scenic area and is considered a sacred mountain by the Naxi people.
From the entrance, we took a scenic area bus to the cable car station and rode up to an elevation of 4,506 meters. From there, we started walking up along a boardwalk. Because of the continuous rain, the boardwalk and paths were extremely slippery, and walking above 4,500 meters was extra exhausting. At such high altitudes, any exertion makes you tired very quickly. I had to use the oxygen canister and rest every few steps. After more than an hour, we finally reached 4,680 meters, the highest point accessible to tourists on the walking trail. It’s said that Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is covered with snow and ice only from November to April. Although we didn’t see any snow, reaching 4,680 meters still gave us a great sense of achievement. The whole ascent and descent took about 3.5 hours. Back at the parking lot, we returned to our tour vehicle and headed back to Lijiang, concluding the day’s journey.
Cable car ascending to 4,506 meters on Jade Dragon Snow Mountain
4,680 meters, the highest point on the boardwalk
Today we started a 3-day Shangri-La tour. We had arranged with the driver the night before to pick us up at the north gate of Lijiang Old Town at 7:10 a.m. Again, the driver served as the guide. It was cloudy when we got in, but luckily the sky cleared as we drove away from Lijiang. This Shangri-La group had only four people. The driver was Tibetan, very skilled and warm-hearted. Along the way, he shared stories about local customs and scenic spots.
Our first destination was Tiger Leaping Gorge, a national 4A-level scenic spot. It lies on the route between Lijiang and Shangri-La, about 80 km from Lijiang and 96 km from Shangri-La. The drive from Lijiang to the gorge area took around three hours. The Jinsha River, originating from the Geladandong Snow Mountain in Qinghai, rushes all the way here and suddenly meets the obstacle of the Jade Dragon and Haba Snow Mountains. The once calm river becomes furious. Tiger Leaping Gorge is the first great gorge of the Yangtze River, stretching between the Haba and Jade Dragon Mountains. Legend has it that a tiger once leaped over the river on a rock, giving it the name. The south bank of the Jinsha River is Lijiang’s Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and the north bank is Shangri-La’s Haba Snow Mountain.
The driver parked near the entrance, and we walked down to the riverbank. The gorge was crowded with tourists. The giant rock in the middle of the river, battered by the surging water, roared and echoed through the valley. We spent about 1.5 hours there before leaving. After the gorge, the driver took us for a meal, then we continued toward Shangri-La. The entire road from Lijiang to Shangri-La was a winding mountain road, but we could see a newly built expressway alongside; it was expected to open the next year, which would make future trips much faster and safer.
On the way, we passed a sea of flowers, and the driver stopped for us to admire and take photos. It was a field of fiery red langdu flowers (Stellera chamaejasme), which are striking because the roots, stems, leaves, and flowers are all the same red—very unique. Leaving the flowers, we soon reached Yila Grassland. Under the blue sky and white clouds, the green grassland stretched into the distance, blending with the horizon. Next to the grassland is Napa Lake, a high-altitude freshwater lake at 3,266 meters. It’s a seasonal lake with a water area of 660 square kilometers, and the scenery is beautiful. The driver took us on a loop around the lake, stopping at scenic points for photos. Napa Lake is about 8 km from Shangri-La city; you can also rent an electric scooter from Dukezong Ancient Town to tour the lake.
After our lake tour, since there was still time, the driver took us to Songzanlin Monastery, the largest Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Yunnan. It holds a significant status across the whole Tibetan region and is often called the 'Little Potala Palace'. Leaving the monastery, the driver dropped us at our hotel in Dukezong Ancient Town to rest. At 7 p.m., he took us to a group meal at a local Tibetan family’s home outside the old town. There seemed to be several tour groups eating there. The food far exceeded my expectations: butter tea, highland barley wine, yak meat hotpot, highland chicken soup, fresh lamb rolls, and more. Best of all, the dishes were refilled proactively when finished. During the meal, Tibetans sang and danced, interacting with the guests. After dinner, there was a bonfire party. When it ended, we drove back to the hotel to rest.
Langdu flowers in Shangri-La
Yila Grassland in Shangri-La
Napa Lake in Shangri-La
Napa Lake in Shangri-La
Group meal at a Tibetan home in Shangri-La
Today’s itinerary was Pudacuo National Park, a national 5A-level scenic area located 22 km from Shangri-La city, at elevations ranging from 3,500 to 4,159 meters. It is an important part of the 'Three Parallel Rivers' scenic area. Its main attractions include Bita Lake, Shudu Lake, and Milizang Alpine Pasture, making it one of Shangri-La’s major sights.
The road from Shangri-La to Pudacuo was very rough, and the drive took about an hour. At the park entrance, we transferred to a park bus that took about 20 minutes to reach Shudu Lake. The boardwalk around the lake is 3.3 km long, and we completed it in under 1.5 hours. Because it rained all day, we missed the classic view of brilliant blue skies and equally blue water that you see on sunny days. Pudacuo fell far short of my expectations. The park should also include Bita Lake and the Milizang Alpine Pasture, but both have been closed to visitors for three years. Only the 3.3-km circuit around Shudu Lake is now open—it’s no longer the full Pudacuo National Park. I feel the park should inform visitors of this limitation when they book tickets to avoid disappointment.
Returning to Dukezong Ancient Town in Shangri-La, we went to a popular Tibetan restaurant where the variety show 'Extreme Challenge' had previously filmed. We ordered a set meal that included butter tea, highland barley pancakes, grilled mushrooms, and a yak meat hotpot. The food was much better than what we had at the Tibetan family’s place the day before.
Pudacuo National Park
Pudacuo National Park
Shudu Lake in Pudacuo National Park
Dukezong Ancient Town is the best-preserved and largest Tibetan settlement in China. It features the world’s largest prayer wheel, which takes many people turning together to rotate. Many come here to pray for blessings. In 2014, a massive fire destroyed one-third of the town’s buildings. The current town has been restored. It’s not large, and you can explore most of it in a few hours.
Dukezong Ancient Town: the world’s largest prayer wheel
Tibetan restaurant in Dukezong Ancient Town
Yak meat hotpot (forgot to take a photo before eating)
Highland barley pancakes and grilled mushrooms
At 8:10 a.m., the driver picked us up from the hotel. Today’s plan was to visit Shika Snow Mountain, a national 5A-level scenic spot. It stands at 4,500 meters, just 7 km from Dukezong Ancient Town, and is considered a sacred mountain by Tibetans. After a short drive of ten or so minutes, we arrived at the entrance, only to be told by staff that the mountain had entered a maintenance period and was closed for a month. So we couldn’t visit it. After negotiating, the travel company refunded the Shika Snow Mountain fee. We decided to return to Lijiang. After a drive of over four hours, we were back, checked in, rested a bit, and went back to 'Grandmother’s Preserved Ribs' for a meal.
After eating, we headed to Mu’s Mansion. There’s a saying: 'In the north, there’s the Forbidden City; in the south, there’s Mu’s Mansion,' showing how highly it’s regarded. Located in Lijiang Old Town, Mu’s Mansion was the palace of the Mu clan chieftains, who ruled Lijiang as hereditary magistrates starting from the Yuan Dynasty through the Ming and Qing dynasties for 22 generations over 470 years. Thus, it was the political and cultural center of the Lijiang region. The TV drama 'Mu’s Mansion Storm' was filmed here. It’s a national 4A-level area with an entrance fee of 40 yuan per person. While not as grand as the Forbidden City, as a local chieftain’s palace, it is very impressive. Visiting also offers a window into Naxi culture, with displays of their life and customs.
After leaving Mu’s Mansion, we continued wandering through Lijiang Old Town. A good way to explore is to follow the waterways—you won’t get lost, and the scenery is beautiful. The riverbanks are planted with succulents and flowers. Strolling along, listening to the babbling water and surrounded by blossoms, I wished time could stand still. We roamed the old town until evening, then had dinner outside before calling it a day.
Day 9: Light rain
The previous evening, we agreed with the driver for a 2-day Lugu Lake tour to pick us up at the north gate of Lijiang Old Town at 7:45 a.m. The drive to Lugu Lake is about 200 km, mostly on mountain roads. Because of continuous rain, we saw loose rocks and occasional small landslides, making the journey feel quite scary. Fortunately, the driver was skilled, and we made it safely. It took about five hours to reach Lugu Lake, and in the afternoon, we started a loop tour of the lake.
Lugu Lake straddles the border between Yanyuan County in Sichuan and Ninglang County in Yunnan, so it’s jointly governed by both provinces. There are seven ethnic minority groups around the lake, including the mysterious Mosuo people who live by its shores. At 2,685 meters, it is the highest-altitude lake in Yunnan and the third-deepest lake in China. Its beautiful natural setting and unique ethnic customs make it a famous tourist destination. After dinner, we watched a Mosuo singing and dancing performance.
Group meal at a roadside restaurant on the way to Lugu Lake
Even in the rain, newlyweds take wedding photos by Lugu Lake
Today we continued exploring Lugu Lake. After breakfast, at 9:20 a.m., we took a car to the dock and boarded a 'pig trough boat' to experience the lake up close. The water is so clear you can see the bottom, and it’s said you can drink it directly. Near the shore, clusters of white flowers bloom; locals call them 'water nature Yanghua' flowers (a type of aquatic plant). By around 11 a.m., we wrapped up our Lugu Lake visit and drove back to Lijiang. We arrived at the north gate of Lijiang Old Town around 5 p.m., had dinner, and then strolled through the old town at night again.
Pig trough boat on Lugu Lake
Pig trough boat on Lugu Lake
Lige Peninsula, Lugu Lake
'Water nature Yanghua' flowers at Lugu Lake
Day 11: Light rain
This morning we slept in and then wandered around Lijiang Old Town in the drizzle. Around noon, we found a restaurant for lunch. After resting back at the guesthouse, we took a bus to Lijiang Airport for our evening flight back to Wuhan. People sometimes say that shopping in Lijiang involves getting ripped off, but based on our multiple stays there, it wasn’t nearly as bad as the rumors. Taxis always used the meter, drivers were courteous, restaurant menus had clear prices and generous portions, and there were even volunteers on the streets helping tourists. I found Lijiang a well-managed tourist destination.
To sum up: This Yunnan trip was largely independent, with some spots visited through locally booked day tours. This kept costs reasonable while providing convenient transportation, and we had no hassles with forced shopping. Our time at each attraction was relaxed and unhurried. In parts of Yunnan, the rainy season lasts from May to October, with little rain the rest of the year. The snow mountains are covered with snow from November to April. So, for much of our trip, we had rain and didn’t see any snow on the mountains. Rain did affect our mood and the scenic views somewhat. Although there were some regrets, overall I was very satisfied. Our total expenses for food, lodging, and transport came to 7,600 yuan, or 3,800 yuan per person. I hope this travel guide will be helpful to those planning a trip to Yunnan.
