Yunnan: I Love Dali's Poetic Charm and Sea-Sky Views, and Lijiang's Ancient Elegance and Tranquility

📍 Lijiang · 👁 2 reads · ❤️ 56 likes

July 31, overcast turning to light rain

9:00 am, the train brought us to Dali (Xiaguan).

Usually 'Dali' refers to Dali Ancient Town, still 20 km from Xiaguan city.

Outside the train station, we took bus No. 8, a 1-hour ride to the terminal at the East Gate of the ancient town.

We got off at Caicun intersection and transferred to bus No. 2 to Caicun Dock.

For our 3-day stay in Dali, I chose accommodation by Erhai Lake.

Caicun is the seaside village closest to the ancient town.

This lake-view inn has a bold slogan: 'I lean on Erhai!'

Standard room: 108 yuan

The sky gradually cleared up. After checking in, we couldn't wait to go up to the rooftop and take photos.

From the rooftop overlooking Erhai Lake, the sky wasn't very blue, but it was so pure.

In the afternoon, we went to Dali Ancient Town. Caicun is 5 km from the ancient town, a 20 yuan taxi ride.

The first thing in the ancient town, Donggua did what every artsy youngster must do: get colorful braids!

(In Dali, 10 yuan for 3 braids; in Lijiang, 10 yuan for 8 braids.)

The second thing: eat my absolute favorite rose-flavored grilled milk fan.

The slightly sour milk fan is filled with rose jam, grilled until fragrant and super delicious, 5 yuan each.

You won't find it outside Dali.

A street snap for the memory.

Dali Ancient Town has a history of over 1200 years, with Wuhua Tower at its center.

During peak season, looking down, it's people, people, people, Dali, people, people, people, people.

Walking further, the bustling South Gate of the ancient town is inscribed with 'Dali' written by Guo Moruo.

August 1, overcast turning to light rain. Right outside our inn is Caicun Wetland Park.

I especially love these few rocks in Erhai Lake; they're a must-visit for me every time I come to Dali.

These rocks change appearance with the seasonal water levels, and each visit brings something new.

This year, small boats on Erhai Lake are all banned.

If I could sit in a small boat out to the middle of the lake at sunrise or sunset, that would be lovely too.

Bougainvillea peeking out from someone's courtyard is in full, gorgeous bloom.

We spent the morning at Caicun, had lunch, then took a car to drop our luggage at a hotel in Xizhou.

Then we rented an electric scooter; Donggua drove while I took photos, starting our lakeside ride!

Erhai is not a sea, but the best scenery of Dali is along its shores.

A full circle around Erhai Lake is 125 km, while Xizhou to Caicun round trip is 40 km.

We wandered along the west-side lakeside road, stopping here and there; no matter where we stopped, it was beautiful.

Dali's weather changes its face even faster than I do.

Although the weather wasn't cooperating, no blue skies and white clouds, and often drizzling, the temperature was just right.

Erhai under the dark clouds had its own unique charm.

Riding onward, we passed patches of lush green rice paddies, humming our mood into a song.

By Cangshan and Erhai, you were by my side,

This summer felt different from summers past.

Bicycle rolling through the fields, you sang softly;

I opened my eyes and only photos remain.

The streets we walked hand in hand are right before me,

Passersby just like us back then.

Truly, I can never be with you,

But I will smile, thinking of you in the distance.

Horse cart drivers soliciting passengers,

people strolling in the alleys,

old folks chatting in the pavilion—

the lazy, leisurely time of Xizhou Ancient Town.

PS: Entering Xizhou Ancient Town from the main gate costs a 60 yuan ticket, but you can go a few hundred meters further along Dali-Lijiang Highway and enter for free through a back way.

We stayed at an inn a 10-minute drive from Xizhou Ancient Town.

Though a bit remote, the scenery and ambiance were great.

The owner is an art collector, so the whole hotel is decorated with an artsy feel.

King-bed room, 320 yuan.

A must-see photo spot, the big waterwheel at the north gate of the ancient town is the first thing everyone sees in Lijiang. The weathered stories are gone, leaving only the bustle of people coming and going.

Next to the waterwheel, Dongba wish bells hang in dazzling profusion, carrying everyone's heartfelt wishes.

Square Street (Sifangjie) is the central plaza of the ancient town and its liveliest, noisiest spot.

I love the ancient town at 7 in the morning, when it's less commercialized and feels much more peaceful and rustic, with damp flagstone paths and misty clouds veiling the distant mountains.

But aside from getting up early to catch a ride, I mostly slept through those leisurely mornings.

The ancient town is rich in antique charm, with little bridges and flowing streams running through it.

Don't rush, slow down,

wander through winding, deep alleys, listen to raindrops dripping from the eaves, and when tired, stop to take photos and rest.

I haven't watched 'Mu Fu Feng Yun' (The Storm of Mu Mansion), but I know that Mu Mansion was the palace of the local ruler, the Naxi chieftain Mu's family. It was burned down during the Cultural Revolution, and this is a later reconstruction; I didn't go inside.

Dongba pictographs, sacred ancient symbols of the Naxi people,

The ancient town, with Dongba culture, adds a touch of ancient mystery.

Lashihai Lake is about ten-something kilometers from Lijiang, a wetland natural landscape on the Tea Horse Road.

August 5, moderate rain. At 9 am, we waited on the road nearest to our inn; a car came to pick us up, and after a half-hour drive, we arrived at a horse ranch on the Tea Horse Road by Lashihai.

The Lashihai day tour package was overall quite a good deal, 290 yuan per person, all inclusive.

But perhaps due to the bad weather, the route had no scenery at all.

The most satisfying restaurant was a gourmet spot with a great atmosphere, extremely warm service by the young lads – truly excellent. The food was great, especially the copper pot rice, so delicious; no wonder it's highly recommended. Reasonably priced, it was the most comfortable meal and the best-tasting restaurant of our trip. Highly recommended!

Our Yunnan trip has ended. Every place I've yet to visit is a distant dream I long to reach. May my twenty-something self stay forever young, forever on the road.