Self-Drive Trip Through Lijiang, Luguhu Lake, and Dali During the 2021 Pandemic Off-Season — Still Gorgeous!!!
Travelers: 2 | Duration: 5 days 4 nights | Time: February | Travel style: independent and self-driving trip
DAY1 (Wed, Feb 3, 7:25–10:25) Guangzhou—Lijiang
DAY2 (10:00–2:00) Lijiang—Luguhu Lake
DAY3 (13:40–18:00) Luguhu Lake—Dali Shuanglang
DAY4 (11:30–12:30) Shuanglang—Dali Ancient Town
DAY5 (13:45–16:20) Dali Airport—Guangzhou
Almost missed the flight again. During the pandemic, you need to arrive at the airport two hours early to check in for domestic flights. I jolted awake at 5:10 a.m., thinking, “Oh no, we’re going to miss it!” We got to the airport by 6:10. As we were queuing, a security officer shouted, “Who’s on the 7:00 flight? Quickly, come with me!” With a narrow escape, we made it safely to Yunnan, Lijiang. Oh, and no nucleic acid test was needed!!! Just a Yunnan health code and a green travel code, though we’d still done the test in advance.
The airport is tiny, by the way~ After grabbing our luggage, we went to pick up our rental car. The rental agent was waiting outside the airport at the appointed time. After checking the car over, we kicked off our Yunnan adventure.
It’s about half an hour from the airport to Lijiang Ancient Town. The roads were clear, so we hummed a tune all the way to the parking lot. Vehicles aren’t allowed inside the old town, so we hauled our luggage past the town market. Everyone had baskets strapped to their backs, radiating festive New Year vibes.
Seeing the rosy cheeks of high-altitude life on kids and adults alike, I knew for sure: this was Yunnan. This must be the quietest year for tourists in living memory. Our first night was at Fulin Inn—you can find it on Ctrip. A friend’s father recommended it, saying we could choose any room when we arrived, 200 yuan a night. We settled on a room, dropped our bags, and went for a brunch, absolutely starving. The landlady suggested a nearby rice noodle shop, supposedly the best and cheap too.
A simple bowl of rice noodles warmed our hearts. After eating, we asked the shop owner how to reach Lion Hill, the highest point in the old town. She was super friendly and gave us detailed directions for the quickest route.
Hardly anyone was around—mostly locals. It took about 15 minutes to climb the old town’s paths to the top of Lion Hill. The steps were uneven and a bit slippery, so ladies, steer clear of high heels~ No entrance ticket needed, just show your health code. A few shops were still open along the narrow lanes, but most people had gone home for the New Year. It felt like I was in a fake Yunnan. At the summit, we picked a café with a view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
The café sits right beside Lion Hill, the one perfect spot to see the entire old town and the snow mountain. Sipping Yunnan coffee in the sunshine—I could ask for nothing more.
I sneaked a glance at an artist and whispered, “Can I take a photo of you?” He smiled kindly and said yes. We chatted; it was his third day painting here, starting at 9 a.m. each morning. I was speechless with admiration: “A true hermit, absolutely amazing!!”
Sitting quietly there, all distractions gone, basking in coffee and sunlight—so comfortable.
From the view of the ancient town, the hilltop was a bit cold. Though it was afternoon, the wind was strong, so bring a thick coat. After coffee, we descended.
Stepping into Lijiang Ancient Town for the first time, every brick and tile felt like a picture. There’s no need to rush here; just wander slowly along the stone-paved lanes, listening to the gurgling water, and lose yourself in this paradise. Without a fixed itinerary, we mostly strolled around, snapping photos as we went. All the photos above are from those leisurely walks.
Back at the inn, the uncle was back from Dali. He arranged dinner for us—a chicken pot at the real foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The scenery was stunning, the flavor superb. I think it was the best chicken soup I’ve ever had, so fresh and delicious~!!!
We chatted about traveling during the pandemic over food and drinks. What more could you want?
After dinner, we drove down the mountain, taking about 40 minutes. We could barely make out a dozen or so stars. The uncle said, “Wait till you get to Luguhu Lake—the stars there are so many they’ll give you goosebumps. This is nothing.” Back in our room, we rested a while, then the uncle had two bottles of wine ready for us downstairs.
At 9 p.m. we started drinking~ Just the three of us. The uncle’s wife and daughter were meditating in their room. He mused, “Being in a place like this, chatting and laughing with you two—it’s so relaxing.” We basically relied on the uncle as our walking map; he sorted out all our food, lodging, and fun. Thankful. Hahaha, a night of laughter and talk drifted by. We washed up and went to bed.
A friendly tip: Yunnan is really dry. Be sure to ask for a humidifier. As someone from Guangdong, my nose woke me up in the middle of the night, parched and sore, even finding a bit of blood in my nose by morning—totally normal.
We got up at 9, ready to head to the fairyland that is Luguhu Lake. Had breakfast at KFC and set off at 10:30, about a four-hour drive.
We crossed who knows how many mountains, through 181 bends (every one a hairpin turn). Be careful, folks—don’t overtake unless absolutely necessary. Your life matters more than speed. We witnessed a near-accident: a car just tapped a truck’s wheel, and we were terrified the sedan would get knocked off the mountain—horrifying!
We scaled one mountain only to climb another, the road twisting endlessly. It suddenly reminded me of last year’s Swiss mountain roads, exactly the same. Halfway through, we spotted a beautiful lake, so we stopped for photos and a loo break.
After the photos, we continued driving. My boyfriend fell asleep for a while, and ding~ we arrived at Luguhu Lake. You need a ticket to enter: 70 yuan per person, plus your Yunnan health code and ID card.
Luguhu Lake straddles the border between Yunnan and Sichuan provinces, jointly administered. The lake is embraced by mountains, creating breathtaking scenery. It’s rightly hailed as a pearl on the high plateau—the water is impossibly blue.
We stayed at the Bian An Inn on Lige Peninsula inside the lake area, in the Liuru room. 1,080 yuan a night, the only room with a 270° lake view.
There’s a car park inside the area. We arrived around 2:30 p.m., called the inn, and a staff member came to pick us up in a tricycle. Almost all the restaurants were closed, save for a lonely one or two offering only rice noodles. We had a quick bowl and headed back to the inn.
By this point, we no longer wanted to go on to Dali—except for the lack of food. We rested a while, but winds were too strong in the afternoon for boats to operate, so we decided to do a loop of the lake.
The full circle of Luguhu Lake is 76 km by road. Driving around is the best way to get close to the lake. Because the lake lies on the Yunnan-Sichuan border, you can easily cross into another province just by driving. The stretch from the Yunnan side to the Sichuan side was thrilling, with even fewer passersby, like a post-war landscape.
A little further ahead is the Marriage Bridge.
The Marriage Bridge spans the Caohai wetlands at Luguhu. In Mosuo tradition, men cross this bridge to visit the women they’re courting. Since it’s tied to Mosuo love stories, many couples treat it as a bridge of love. Holding hands with your beloved, walk from one end to the other—it’s said to ensure you’ll be together till old age~ hahaha.
After walking the bridge and snapping a bunch of landscape shots, the sky darkened and we headed back for dinner. The drive from Sichuan back to Yunnan took about 50 minutes. There were no streetlights, so drive carefully~~~ It got colder and colder after dark, so keep a coat handy and don’t catch a chill~ On the way, we spotted the Mosuo family archway—so distinctive! Every view is a picture.
We reached Lige Village. Earlier, we’d asked the restaurant and they said they’d open in the evening—the only place in Lige Village serving dinner. Otherwise, we’d have been eating instant noodles in this gorgeous spot. We ordered barbecued meat (beef and cartilage balls), stir-fried cabbage, and yak meat with celery. It was my first time trying yak, which I’d never had anywhere else—pure, milky-fresh flavor, not at all gamey.
We ordered four dishes and couldn’t finish. The best were the charcoal-grilled cartilage balls and the yak with celery. The bill came to just over 200 yuan. After dinner, we went back to the inn. After washing up, we stood on the balcony watching the stars—truly, a sky full of stars, large and small, twinkling, giving me goosebumps. In all my years, I’ve never seen so many stars. Too bad my lousy camera couldn’t capture a single one. Amazing!
Our original plan was to return to Lijiang on Day 3 to meet the uncle, then head to Dali on Day 4. But we changed our minds and decided to drive six hours straight to Dali the next day. I immediately booked an inn in Dali’s Shuanglang area, deciding to sleep in at lovely Luguhu Lake, check the weather for a boat ride the next day if not too windy, have lunch, and then set off.
With nearly six hours of driving ahead, we slept until 11 a.m. and then got moving. Had cup noodles at the inn, and at noon, the staff took us to the parking lot in a tricycle.
After stowing our luggage, we went for a Zhucao boat ride. The wind was calmer than the day before. We were the only tourists, so we had to charter a boat. You can choose a short or long ride; the short one is half an hour, 100 yuan total for two people, circling Lige Peninsula. Remember to buy an extra pack of dried fish to feed the seagulls—they’ll follow you the whole way.
The scenery at Luguhu Lake—every snap is a painting. Those with more time should stay a few extra days. There’s a big temperature difference between morning and night; once the sun goes down, it gets windy and cold, so keep a jacket handy.
Alright, boat ride over. The only disappointment was not seeing the water hyacinth flowers (they’re called “love flowers” and only bloom in summer, in the lake). So we decided to come back in the summer.
We set off for Dali at 1:30 p.m.—over 300 km, 5 to 6 hours, expected arrival by 6. I noticed that locals here drive really slowly; apparently they’re in no hurry to get home~. There were very few cars on the road. After crossing one mountain then another, I was bored and sleepy in the sunshine, so I had a bright idea: I opened my laptop and watched a variety show.
Kudos to my driver, who powered through nearly six hours. Right on 6, we arrived at Dali Shuanglang. There were lots of shops renting out convertibles and electric scooters. We stayed at the Juran·Seaview Sunset Honeymoon Loft Star Room, 370 yuan a night. To our surprise, the host was from Guangdong too—felt like home, chatting in Cantonese, so familiar. He said they also have a branch in Luguhu Lake~.
We decided not to go out that evening, just chill at the inn with takeout, local beer, and rest. There didn’t seem to be much to explore.
“Wind, flowers, snow, moon” are Dali’s four famous sights: Xiaguan wind, Shangguan flowers, Cangshan snow, and Erhai moon.
We spent the evening at the inn, watching TV, sipping beer, eating late-night snacks, listening to the sounds of Erhai Lake—so comfortable.
After sleeping in, we headed out. My clever driver boyfriend chose the route along Erhai to get to the ancient town, so we could admire the lake and take photos.
Rolling down the windows, wind blowing—so nice.
We saw a beautiful tree along the way and stopped for photos. Isn’t the journey all about relaxing and enjoying? Snap wherever you like.
After enjoying the views, we continued slowly toward the old town. At the edge of town, the uncle recommended a burger joint on Foreigner Street run by foreigners, with crazy-good orange juice. We parked nearby and walked over. Dali Ancient Town was relatively busy—Lijiang and Luguhu had almost no tourists, but here at least many shops were open.
The beef patties in the burgers were the best I’ve ever had. The fries were a bit overdone and not great, but the orange juice was spot on.
After eating, we wandered a bit and found a café to sit in the backyard and soak up the sun. The place was quiet, like a courtyard house, with a guesthouse next door.
So comfortable. I just wanted to sit for an hour, two hours, until the sun went down... After eating and drinking our fill, we went to Reflection Park to see the Three Pagodas.
Tickets: 75 yuan per person. We didn’t catch the reflection, but still snapped a photo to prove we were there.
The Three Pagodas had very few visitors, quiet and serene. We saw many aunties carrying bamboo baskets, selling handicrafts.
After the pagodas, we went to the inn. The uncle had been in Dali earlier and booked our inn for us—originally over 1,000 yuan, he bargained it down to 400 yuan a night. Sharp! We arrived at Wucaiyun Hotel, parked, and then a tricycle took us to Wucaiyun Inn just a short distance away.
After check-in, we rested in the room for over half an hour.
The room was a proper one-bedroom suite, and at 400 yuan, it was incredible value. The best was the toilet—heated seat, 120 points out of 100. A good inn hinges on a clean bathroom. Thumbs up!!! After dark, we went for mushroom hotpot. The inn staff recommended this place for fair prices and no overcharging; apparently, some other places have two menus, one for locals and one for tourists.
We ordered a mushroom set meal with five types (blue-foot boletes, chanterelles, porcini, morels, matsutake). The blue-foot boletes need to cook for at least 20 minutes, or you risk poisoning—seeing little people dancing. I’ve read many news reports of people ending up in the hospital from undercooked mushrooms.
After dinner, we strolled around. Dali Ancient Town is relatively small—you can cover it in about an hour.
For the first time in my life, I ate insects... a bit scary. The proprietor said, “What’s there to be scared of? You must try them in Dali, and they’re full of protein. Only my place serves them,” she kept pushing. Personally, they tasted okay, a bit over-fried and dry.
Hand in hand, we wandered slowly, watching passersby. Walking through the old town felt like a date, hahaha—kinda romantic. The town isn’t big; we looped around, bought some flower cakes and brown sugar, and got back to the inn around 10 p.m. We’d planned to have a drink on Bar Street first, but it was too noisy—we’re too old for that. Back at the inn, I casually asked the landlady if she sold red wine. She said, “Pick whichever you like.” My boyfriend picked a bottle, but she wouldn’t sell it... saying she didn’t know the price. So we chose a second one. Originally 300 yuan, she said, “How about half-price?” Probably because we’d spent ages picking the first one and she felt a bit awkward not selling it, she gave us 50% off. She even threw in some fruit to snack on, haha.
After washing up, we cracked open the wine and watched a show. With a humidifier keeping us company, we slept really well that night.
Originally, we’d booked an 11 p.m. flight, but due to the worsening pandemic, the evening flight was canceled. So we switched to a 1:35 p.m. departure. After sleeping in, we had rice noodles downstairs, bought a coffee, and met a clingy, playful corgi.
With our bellies full, we prepared to head back to Guangzhou. A bit reluctant to leave—if Chinese New Year weren’t just around the corner, we’d have stayed a few more days.
We got to the airport at 12:30, and the rental return agent was waiting at the entrance. We returned the car an hour late; normally we’d have had to pay extra, but he said if we gave a five-star review, he’d waive the fee.
At 16:25 we landed back in big Guangzhou.
Summary: A fulfilling trip through a virtually tourist-free Yunnan, a once-in-a-decade sight. Looking forward to summer and those water hyacinth flowers. Happy ending!!! Happy Year of the Ox, everyone, and may you surge with bullish energy!
Travelogue contents:
1. Day 1: Lijiang Ancient Town
2. Day 2: Luguhu Lake
3. Day 3: Luguhu Lake—Dali Shuanglang
4. Day 4: Dali Shuanglang—Dali Ancient Town
5. Day 5: Dali—Guangzhou
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