Heading to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain: A Yunnan Family Trip
June 18–22, 2012. Our family of three embarked on a five-day group tour of Yunnan, covering Kunming, Dali, and Lijiang. At the time, our son was 11 years old, still so innocent and carefree!
Day 1: Dali Ancient Town – Lijiang Guanyin Gorge – Lijiang Old Town
1. Dali Ancient Town – one of China's first 24 Historic and Cultural Cities.
Dali Ancient Town lies in western Yunnan, at the foot of the scenic Cangshan Mountain. It is also known as Yeyu City or Purple City. Its history dates back to the Tianbao era of the Tang Dynasty, and it served as the capital of the ancient Nanzhao Kingdom (Tang Dynasty) and the Dali Kingdom (Song Dynasty). For over 500 years during the Tang and Song dynasties, Dali was the political, economic, and cultural center of Yunnan. Within the ancient town, there are 14 key cultural relic protection units at the municipal level and above, embodying Dali's historical, religious, and ethnic cultures. It is the core tourist area of Dali.
In the first year of the Baoyou era of the Southern Song (1253), the Yuan Dynasty conquered the Dali Kingdom and destroyed the city. In the 15th year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty (1382), Ming forces captured Dali and built a new prefectural city, which is the Dali Ancient Town we see today.
South Gate Tower of Dali Ancient Town
The South Gate Tower, also called Shuanghe Tower or Cheng'en Tower, is the foremost of the four gates of the old town. Built in 1382, it is the oldest and grandest structure, serving as a symbol and icon of Dali. The city walls stretch about 1,500 meters on each side, standing 6 meters high and 12 meters thick. The two characters “大理” on the gate were handwritten by Guo Moruo during his visit to Dali in 1961. “大理” was the name of the kingdom, implying “great governance brings prosperity to the nation.”
Walking into the old town from the South Gate
This is a place perfect for living. The pace of life is leisurely, the sunshine is bright, and the temperature is pleasant. Strolling through the ancient town, browsing small shops, and admiring old buildings is truly delightful.
Headquarters of the President and Grand Marshal of the Military (Du Wenxiu's Mansion)
About a hundred meters north of the South Gate, on the west side of the street, stands a mansion distinct from neighboring houses. Its plaque, with golden characters on a blue background, reads “总统兵马大元帅府” (Headquarters of the President and Grand Marshal of the Military), appearing especially solemn against the blue sky and Cangshan Mountain. These buildings faithfully record a stirring chapter in history when the people of western Yunnan, led by the Hui leader Du Wenxiu, bravely resisted the Qing dynasty.
Wuhua Tower was originally a state guesthouse for the kings of Nanzhao. When Kublai Khan conquered Dali, he once stationed troops in front of the tower. In the early Ming Dynasty, the tower was burned down during wars, and was rebuilt during the Hongwu period when Dali Ancient Town was restored. The current Wuhua Tower, reconstructed in 1998, is a four-story building over 20 meters high; the ground floor is a platform and the upper three floors form the tower. It is one of Dali's landmark structures.
Honglong Well: Located in the southwest of Dali Ancient Town, this area stretches a few hundred meters from the west city wall to Fuxing Road in the east, named after the well.
In recent years, Honglong Well has become a popular spot for visitors, now a hot attraction in Dali. One reason for its appeal is the clear stream that flows year-round, creating a picturesque scene of “clear spring water running over stones.”
Luxing Gate (Ru Star Gate): Named from Confucianism, it signifies the gathering of literary stars from heaven at this threshold.
Taking a photo with a peacock.
Wucheng Gate: The Temple of Martial Success, often called the Martial Temple of Marquis Wu or simply “Wu Temple,” was originally known as the Taigong Temple, dedicated to Jiang Taigong and sixty-four renowned generals of successive dynasties. Dali's Wu Temple was first built in the 17th year of the Hongwu era of the Ming Dynasty. Also known as Guandi Temple, it symbolizes Dali's martial culture and prosperity.
Foreigners' Street (Yangren Jie), originally known as Huguo Road (Protect the Nation Road), was named to commemorate Yunnan people's uprising against Yuan Shikai's restoration of the monarchy in the early Republic of China. The road runs east–west, 1,200 meters long and 7 meters wide, paved with bluestone slabs. Its most bustling section, the 185.6-meter middle stretch, is one of China's earliest and best-known foreigner streets.
Following China's reform and opening-up, the Hongshancha Hotel on Huguo Road was designated as a foreign-oriented hotel, making the road a gathering place for international tourists in Dali. With the growth of tourism, more and more visitors arrived – some sightseeing, some sampling famous foods, some working or looking for girlfriends, all pursuing their interests in a lively yet peaceful atmosphere. Shops serving Chinese and Western cuisines, tea houses, jewelry stores, antique shops, tie-dye boutiques, and galleries sprang up on both sides, dazzling and diverse. It thus became the renowned Dali Foreigners' Street.
Dali has been a gathering place for the Bai people since ancient times.
2. Guanyin Gorge – The First Sight of Lijiang
The Guanyin Gorge scenic area is the entrance to the Yulong Pass, one of six major passes in the Lijiang basin. Located at the “Yulong Pass” gateway, it is hailed as “the first sight of Lijiang.” Guanyin Gorge combines natural landscapes of mountains, waters, gorges, forests, and lakes with cultural attractions including the Tea Horse Ancient Road street, Naxi villages, folk customs, and religious sites. The poetic line “Long and lofty Qiu Tang pass, deep and lingering Tea-Horse sentiments to Tibet” perfectly captures its essence. It was the first strategic pass on the Yunnan-Tibet Tea Horse Road. The famed traveler Xu Xiake entered Lijiang through here, describing Qiu Tang Pass as “the key to the Lijiang prefecture.” Passing through this “key to Lijiang” means entering the very gate of Lijiang.
A sign reads: “2578 km from Beijing, altitude 2230 m.”
First, you arrive at the entrance's “Tea Horse Ancient Road.” The Tea Horse Road was an international trade route in southwestern China, where mule caravans were the primary means of transport. Originating from tea-horse markets in the southwestern borderlands, it thrived during the Tang and Song dynasties and peaked during the Ming and Qing. It comprised two branches: the Sichuan-Tibet and Yunnan-Tibet routes. Guanyin Gorge was historically the sole pass and military fortress on the Yunnan-Tibet branch for those traveling from Lijiang into Tibet.
Liangma Bridge (Fine Horse Bridge): This bridge was built by local people to facilitate mule caravans on the Tea Horse Road. After crossing the Tea Horse Ancient Road and then the Mujia Bridge, you reach the Mu Family Villa, once a tax inspection post set up by the Mu chieftain.
Mu Family Villa: Situated inside Guanyin Gorge, this is where the Mu chieftain, often called the “local emperor” of Lijiang, set up a tax office. The villa is quaint and elegant, built in the typical Naxi courtyard style with two open-air atriums. Its exquisitely carved “Six Harmony” doors, beautifully paved courtyards, and symbolic hanging fish ornaments all showcase the wisdom and aesthetic sense of the Naxi people.
Posing in a game of “soldiers catching bandits.”
This might be Naxi script.
Xiake Pavilion: This area was visited by Xu Xiake. In 1639, at the invitation of the Mu chieftain Mu Zeng, he traveled from Dali to Lijiang and stayed for 15 days. This was the only entry point into the Lijiang basin from Dali and Heqing at the time, and it is said that Xu Xiake entered Lijiang through here. The pavilion was built later to commemorate his stay. In his travel notes, he wrote, “These mountains truly are the key to Lijiang.” It offers the best close-up view of Guanyin Gorge.
Walking past bustling streets, the greenery deepens with a mix of emerald and dark green, wildflowers emitting a faint fragrance. Weeping willows gracefully reflect in the tranquil lake, merging sky and water into one expansive expanse of blue.
Through a dense bamboo grove, you reach a 385-meter mountain tunnel. A small electric train takes you through. As the poets say, “Mountains multiply, streams double back – I doubt a path exists; willows darken, flowers brighten – another village appears.” “The moon in the pool stays not with the flowing water; the gorge wind comes together with the crowd.”
After the tunnel, a walk of some hundred meters brings you to the mouth of Guanyin Gorge, marked by a stone tablet: “丽江观音峡” (Lijiang Guanyin Gorge).
Lijiang Guanyin Waterfall: The gorge is serene with towering peaks, and the sound of water gradually fills the air. Around a bend, a waterfall plunges down, its swift torrent like arrows, truly resembling the Milky Way falling from the heavens – this is the Lijiang Guanyin Waterfall. The falls mark the end of the trail. Turning back along the raging waters and the interplay of light, climbing stone steps, you see overhanging branches that turn daylight into dusk, patches of sunshine filtering through, and a riot of colorful wildflowers. The fresh mountain breeze is utterly refreshing.
Passing through Yulong Pass Tea Horse Ancient Street.
After getting the pass document here, off to Lijiang Old Town!
3. In the evening, entering Lijiang Old Town.
Staying at Xiya Hotel.
Day 2: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – Lijiang Old Town
1. Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – Blue Moon Valley Scenic Area
Blue Moon Valley: Located at the eastern foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in Lijiang, the valley is commonly called “White Water River.” It is world-renowned for its majestic snow-capped peaks, clear blue jade-like waters, and magnificent gorge scenery. Named for its turquoise lakes and crescent-shaped valley, it is said to be the prototype for the “Valley of the Blue Moon” in James Hilton's novel Lost Horizon.
Yuyeh Lake: The water here is so crystal clear that you can see the pure white riverbed at a glance. The blue lake mirrors the distant Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, creating a stunning landscape painting just as the poem describes: “A half-acre pond opens like a mirror, where sky and clouds linger together.”
Jingtan Lake (Mirror Pool): A tiny but exquisitely serene spot in Blue Moon Valley, with exceptionally clear water reminiscent of the Mirror Sea in Jiuzhaigou, evoking the poetry: “The autumn moon blends with the lake's gleam; the pool's surface, windless, is a mirror unpolished.”
Tingtao Lake (Listening to Waves Lake): Here the water cascades with a great drop, sounding like a small waterfall, tinkling like musical instruments. Standing by the lake, you hear the blend of splashing water and the soughing of pines, just as the verse goes: “The stream murmurs beneath the pines, while waves echo above.”
2. Impression Lijiang Show – The world's highest outdoor live performance at 3,050 meters
Impression Lijiang is a grand open-air show directed by China's most influential filmmaker Zhang Yimou, together with Wang Chaoge and Fan Yue. It took over a year and hundreds of revisions to complete. The performance venue, at Ganhaizi in the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain scenic area, sits at an altitude of 3,050 meters – the highest live performance stage in the world. It remains the only show of its kind performed during the daytime.
Impression Snow Mountain uses the snow mountain as its backdrop, drawing inspiration from nature and the heavens. Through bold, impressionistic expression, it brings ethnic folk culture to life. At 3,100 meters above sea level, it allows everyone to intimately experience the authenticity and awe of life.
Actors come into the audience to interact.
Galloping horses appear behind the seating area.
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain remains veiled in clouds.
Sitting in this vast performance space at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, as the show begins, you are inexorably drawn in, genuinely feeling a cleansing of the heart, a transcendence of the soul, and breathtaking visual beauty. A never-before-experienced sense of unity between heaven and humanity fills your heart – truly wonderful!
3. Jade Water Village – The Dongba Holy Land of Central Naxi
Jade Water Village is the Dongba holy site for the Naxi people in central Naxi territory and is considered the origin of Lijiang's water. The Nature Conservancy has designated it as a base for the inheritance of Dongba culture, Baisha fine music, and Leba dance, engaging in the excavation, arrangement, preservation, research, and display of ancient Naxi culture.
The Divine Spring is actually meltwater from the summit of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, filtering through 2,400 meters of rock before gushing out.
The Three-fold Dragon Spring: A large spring flows downhill in three cascades. The Naxi revere this pattern, incorporating it into daily life. They design their household water systems with three levels, arrange their dinnerware at feasts into three tiers (plates, bowls, hot pot), build their courtyards in threefold style, and even Naxi women wear clothing symbolizing the three cascades.
Black Dragon Pool, also known as Yuquan Park, was formerly called the Dragon King Temple of Yuquan. It was first built in 1737 during the Qianlong reign, with renovations recorded in 1795 and 1892. It was named after receiving the imperial title “Dragon God” from both the Jiaqing and Guangxu emperors of the Qing Dynasty, and later renamed Black Dragon Pool.
Situated at the foot of Xiangshan Mountain north of the city, Black Dragon Pool can be reached by following the crisscrossing Yuhe River about one kilometer upstream from Sifang Street in Lijiang Old Town. The crystal-clear spring pool is famous both at home and abroad.
The ancient buildings include the Dragon God Shrine, Deyue Tower, Suocui Bridge, and Yuhuang Pavilion, as well as later relocated structures: the gatehouse and Wufeng Tower from the Ming Dynasty Fuguosi Temple on Zhishan, the Ming-era Guangbi Tower from the former prefectural yamen, and Qing Dynasty structures like Tingli Xie, Yiwen Pavilion, and Wenming Archway.
5. Lijiang Old Town
Lijiang Old Town, also known as Dayan Town, sits in the middle of the Lijiang basin in Gucheng District. Founded in the late Song and early Yuan dynasties (late 13th century), it covers 7.279 km² on the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau. It is part of the second group of Chinese Historic and Cultural Cities and is one of only two ancient towns in China successfully inscribed as a complete entity on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The town reflects the achievements of ancient Chinese urban planning and stands as a distinctive style of Chinese vernacular architecture.
Sifang Street (Square Street): This is the snack street of the old town, lined with dozens of small eateries, each serving Yunnan's famous rice noodles in many varieties, thus it's also nicknamed “Lijiang Rice Noodle Street.” As the center of Lijiang Old Town, it is said to have been built in the shape of the seal of the Ming Dynasty Mu chieftain. It was the most important hub on the Tea Horse Road, attracting merchants from all directions since the Ming and Qing, and remains a melting pot of diverse ethnic cultures and the heart of Lijiang's economy and culture.
This sculpture is titled “Trudging Through Mountains and Rivers.”
6. The Romance of Lijiang – A large-scale song-and-dance performance that captures the soul of Lijiang culture. Using spectacular IMAX 3D visuals, it brings to life millennia of history and legends of Lijiang, including episodes such as Genesis of the Naxi, The Kingdom of Women at Lugu Lake, Legend of the Caravan, The Ancient Road's Modern Flavor, and The Third Kingdom of Jade Dragon.
The show leads audiences through time and space: to the vast primeval wilderness, to the Mosuo flower towers by Lugu Lake, to the wind-and-rain-swept Tea Horse Road, to a bustling ancient town filled with song and dance, to the romantic yet tragic Third Kingdom of Jade Dragon, and to the idyllic Shangri-La, inviting you to encounter a beautiful moment of love and romance.
The performance integrates dance, acrobatics, martial arts, stage mechanics, panoramic special effects, set design and more. Using tens of thousands of high-tech mechanical devices – including anti-gravity moonwalking, the mythical giant bird rescuing its ancestor, high-altitude ramming bars, underwater mines, floods, waterfalls, rain-curtain plank roads, and a huge mechanized snow mountain model – combined with original ecology art, it paints a cultural epic of souls and flesh, blood and tears, life and death, love and passion.
7. Return to Lijiang Old Town.
Day 3: Dali Xizhou Yan Family Compound – Chongsheng Temple
1. Visiting a silverware shop/gallery in Dali.
2. Yan Family Compound
Located in Xizhou Town, Dali, this is a sprawling mansion composed of several interconnected courtyards. Entering through the grand, intricately carved gate with sweeping eaves, you find the “three houses and a screen wall” courtyard, adorned with calligraphy, paintings, and blooming plants that dazzle the eyes.
Passing the entrance hall, you step into a “four-sided courtyard with five skylights,” full of side rooms and open atria, intricately connected like a maze.
After winding paths, you discover another “four-sided five-skylight” courtyard, and in the deepest rear yard stands a Western-style villa, fully modern in design, with a basement, balconies, corridors, French windows, surrounded by potted plants and flowers – elegantly distinct.
Despite the passage of time, the red-lacquered windows and doors and the white marble carved balustrades have lost none of their past glory.
This truly showcases the superb architectural artistry of the Bai people.
The Bai Three-Course Tea, called “Shaodao Zhao” by the Bai, is a dramatic tea ceremony where hosts and guests express feelings and good wishes. Originally, it was a way for elders to bless the younger generation on occasions such as learning, apprenticeship, business ventures, or marriage. The “Three-Course Tea” song and dance performance has become a staple of Dali tourism.
The three courses symbolize life's philosophy: “first bitter, second sweet, third full of aftertaste.” Today, it is a traditional ritual for Bai weddings, festivals, and entertaining guests.
3. Dali Chongsheng Temple
Chongsheng Temple faces Erhai Lake to the east and leans against Cangshan Mountain to the west, located about one kilometer north of Dali Ancient Town at the foot of Diancang Mountain and on the shores of Erhai. Historically, nine emperors of the Dali Kingdom became monks here; in Jin Yong's martial arts novel Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils, it is called “Tianlong Temple.”
The temple was burned down during the Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty, leaving only the three pagodas intact.
In 2004, the Dali Culture Bureau invested 182 million RMB to rebuild the temple, centered on preserving the three pagodas. While keeping existing structures like the bell tower, the Bronze Guanyin Hall, and the forecourt environment, the new complex follows a layout of three main-and-secondary axes, eight terraces, nine courts, and eleven levels.
Major structures include the Golden Wing Bird Square, main gate, Dharma Protector Hall, Maitreya Hall, Eleven-faced Guanyin Hall, Mahavira Hall, A-chuoye Guanyin Pavilion, Sea View Tower, Arhat Hall, Patriarch Hall, and Thousand Buddha Corridor. The 617 Buddha statues and ritual implements are all cast in bronze, with 599 of them gilded and painted, modeled after the Zhang Shengwen Scroll (also known as the Pictorial of Dali Buddhist Images), the “500 Arhats” in the Ming Dynasty Qiongzhu Temple sculpted by Li Guangxiu, and artifacts found in the Three Pagodas. They are arranged to reflect Dali's multicultural and fusion of Chan and Esoteric Buddhist characteristics.
Covering 600 mu (40 hectares) with a floor area of 20,080 square meters, the entire complex is in the Han Buddhist monastery style. It was completed on April 22, 2005.
The Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple consist of one large and two smaller pagodas. The large one, Qianxun Pagoda, was first built during the reign of King Quanfengyou of Nanzhao (824–859 AD). It stands 70 meters from each of the two smaller pagodas, forming an equilateral triangle. Qianxun Pagoda is 69.13 meters tall with a base width of 9.9 meters. It is a square, multi-eave hollow brick pagoda with 16 tiers, one of the tallest surviving pagodas in China. Like the Dayan and Xiaoyan Pagodas in Xi'an, it is a typical architecture of the Tang Dynasty, especially resembling the Xiaoyan Pagoda in form.
Day 4: Kunming – Stone Forest – Colorful Yunnan
1. A jewelry shop in Kunming.
The Stone Forest is located in Shilin Yi Autonomous County of Kunming, 78 km from the provincial capital. Covering 350 square kilometers, it has been designated a UNESCO World Geopark and World Natural Heritage site. In 1982, it was listed among China's first batch of national key scenic spots, and it is now a national 5A tourist area and a national model scenic area.
About 300 million years ago, the area was a vast ocean. Through long geological processes, it became an extremely precious geological heritage, featuring a wide range of karst landforms found on Earth.
Changhu (Long Lake) is a karst lake fed by groundwater, with a circumference of 5 km, a width of 300 m, and an average depth of 24 m. Its water is clear and unpolluted, surrounded by green hills with over 95% vegetation coverage. The air is fresh and clean with excellent visibility.
The lake has small islands and shores lined mainly with Yunnan pines. The terrain is gentle, sprinkled with many smaller lakes, creating a serene and beautiful environment. Nestled among mountains at an altitude of 1,907 m, the lake's shape resembles a slender girl, said to be the home of the legendary Ashima. Because it is hidden among green hills and previously rarely visited, it is also called the “Hidden Lake.”
The Greater Stone Forest is a dense cluster of stone peaks, resembling a stone basin. The towering, upright pinnacles are smoothly contoured with a pale bluish-gray hue, the tallest freestanding column exceeding 40 meters. Notable sights include Lotus Peak, Sword Peak Pond, Hanging by a Thread, Extremely Narrow Pass, Elephant Platform, Deep Orchid Valley, and Phoenix Preening Its Wings. The most famous spot is the “Stone Forest Prominence” where Long Yun inscribed “Stone Forest,” and Wangfeng Pavilion offers the best view of the “forest of stone.”
The Lesser Stone Forest (Ashima Scenic Area) is divided into several garden-like sections by thick stone walls that act as screens. The most famous sight here is “Ashima.”
3. A jadeite shop
A Tea Horse Road sculpture.
4. Colorful Yunnan
Colorful Yunnan performance.
5. Checked into the Xishuangbanna Grand Hotel (though not in Xishuangbanna!)
Opposite is the Wyndham Hotel.
Day 5: Kunming
1. Golden Temple Scenic Area of Kunming
Located at the foot of Mingfeng Hill, 7 km northeast of the city center, the temple is named for its main hall cast entirely in bronze, which under sunlight radiates a golden glow that illuminates the verdant valley – hence also called the Bronze Tile Temple. The famous Golden Temple is part of the Daoist Taihe Palace. First built in 1602 during the Ming Dynasty, it is one of China's four great bronze halls and the best preserved. It was restored in 1671 by Wu Sangui, the Pingxi King. The area boasts beautiful natural scenery, with paths winding through lush, shadowy woods where birds occasionally sing, deeply embodying the spirit of Daoism.
Crossing the Immortal Welcoming Bridge, entering the “Mingfeng Scenic Splendor” archway,
From the steps, pass “First Heavenly Gate,” “Second Heavenly Gate,” and “Third Heavenly Gate.”
Upon reaching the Heavenly Gate, you see the dignified and simple “Taihe Palace” gate, with a couplet: “Painted rafters touch the clouds, occupying just three acres of blue hills; red towers reflect the sunlight, opening up a green wilderness sky.”
Entering the temple gate and passing through the Lingxing Gate,
Climbing the steps into the “city,” on the high staircase ahead
is the central building of Taihe Palace – the famous Golden Temple.
Is this Chen Yuanyuan?
The park is filled with bronze artifacts.
From the bell tower, you can see downtown Kunming.
2. Kunming Green Lake Park: Located at the foot of Luofeng Hill north of the city center, opposite the main gate of Yunnan University (the photo shows the right side of Qinglai Hall on the Donglu Campus), it is one of the city's most beautiful parks. Though small, it is full of character. Originally a bay of Dianchi Lake, it became an independent lake as water levels dropped. Since the Ming Dynasty, officials posted to Yunnan have built pavilions and halls here. Because of its main features – weeping willows and clear water – it was officially named Green Lake in the early 20th century.
Famous for its “Spring Dawn on the Green Dyke,” it is hailed as “a green emerald embedded in the city of Kunming.”
Driving through Kunming, we stumbled upon a talent show audition.
Epilogue: Our five days were packed to the brim, taking in countless natural landscapes, historical buildings, and several shows. Among them, the most beautiful natural scenery was Jade Dragon Snow Mountain; the most exquisite ancient architecture was the Xizhou folk houses (Chongsheng Temple, though grand, is a modern reconstruction); the most spectacular performance was Impression Lijiang; and what brought the greatest joy was the deep parent-child bond!!!
