A Spur-of-the-Moment Trip: Lijiang, Here We Come!
Before the New Year, my wife suggested taking a trip after the Spring Festival, with the time and destination yet to be decided. Given that Yunnan's scenic spots are scattered, and both of us were tired of long train journeys, after several discussions, we finally chose our destination—Lijiang. Once decided, we began booking flights and hotels. Half a month in advance, we booked a cheap round-trip flight from Chengdu to Lijiang. However, three days before departure, we got a notice that the flight from Chengdu had been moved from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. After thinking it over, we felt it wasn't suitable, so we contacted the airline to change flights, rebooking a direct Air China flight to Lijiang. It only cost 200 yuan more, but came with 20 kg of free checked baggage and lunch included. In contrast, the previous flight offered only 5 kg of free baggage and no meals—a total rip-off. I guess I'll never fly Lucky Air again.
Our itinerary was from March 3rd to 9th, with only five days and six nights actually spent in Lijiang. Since we weren't sure about the exact arrangements, we temporarily booked two nights for the outbound and one night for the return.
As the plane flew over the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, we were already awed by the rolling mountain ranges.
Day 1: First Glimpse of the Old Town
Upon first arriving in Lijiang Old Town, we felt that every brick and every tile was a scenic sight. This is a quaint, artistic little city. The ancient architecture speaks of age-old times, and flowers adorn every corner of the old town. Time seemed to slow down here. There was no need to rush; all we had to do was wander leisurely along the stone-paved lanes, listening to the burbling water, and lose ourselves in this paradise-like retreat.
So, we decided to measure this magical land with our own feet.
We climbed up Lion Hill to get a panoramic view of the old town.
Touching the Naxi script on the walls, it felt as if we had traveled back thousands of years.
Lingering by the small streams, we were so enchanted that we forgot the way back.
One evening, after returning to the inn from Shuhe Ancient Town, we didn't feel like going out, so we simply ordered food delivery to the inn. Unexpectedly, after placing the order, we found we had to pick it up ourselves. Helplessly, we hurried through the alleyways to get our dinner at the foot of Lion Hill. After finishing dinner around 9 p.m., we started wandering aimlessly through the lanes. Not knowing the way didn't matter; we were seeking the thrill of the unknown. By chance, we ended up at the observation deck in front of Wenchang Palace, where we overlooked the night view of the old town—a sight too beautiful to fully capture in photos.
Day 2: Lashihai
On the second day, we originally planned to go to Yulong Snow Mountain, but we booked too late, so we had to ask our local contact Zhao Min (Minmin) to change our reservation to a small-group tour of Lashihai. I had never had a great impression of Lashihai before, but this visit turned out quite good. If you want to go, you can contact Zhao Min. It cost 160 per person, including round-trip transport, an hour of horseback riding, lunch, and photo opportunities at the club—pretty good value. A reminder: if you want to visit Yulong Snow Mountain, be sure to book well in advance because they limit ticket sales daily. The horseback ride took us through fields, mountain forests, letting us experience local customs. However, the scenic area was still under development, and there wasn’t much to see—this was a regret of our trip. Playing with seagulls at Migratory Bird Bay and taking photos helped make up for it.
Day 3: Snow Mountain Journey
On the third day, we finally set foot on the long-awaited Yulong Snow Mountain. The sacredness and majesty of the snow mountain are beyond words; even a single visit makes the trip worthwhile. Standing atop the snow-capped peak, looking down on all creation, we felt a sense of spiritual purification. At the foot of the mountain, gazing up at the towering, cloud-piercing peak, we realized how tiny we were. Driving through Ganhaizi, the alpine meadow struck us with its awe-inspiring beauty. This pure, sacred land must not be desecrated. In that moment, I just wanted to cleanse my worldly heart with this pristine place.
At the foot of the snow mountain, Blue Moon Lake was like a pearl fallen to earth, its crystal-clear water shimmering with a faint blue-green glow.
Day 4: Exploring the Old Town Again
On the fourth day, with nothing special planned, we continued strolling through the old town, weaving through its streets and alleys, soaking up its charm to our hearts' content.
Day 5: Encountering Shuhe
On the fifth day, we decided to visit Shuhe Ancient Town. Having passed through Shuhe the previous day on our way to Yulong Snow Mountain, the route felt familiar. Compared with the vibrant and bustling Dayan Old Town, Shuhe was quieter and more serene. We strolled along the streams under the blue sky and white clouds—nothing could be more pleasant. I thought that if I ever have the chance, I'd spend a few days in a small inn in Shuhe, watching sunrises and sunsets, basking in the sun, wandering the stone-paved paths, getting lost in the crisscrossing lanes, and letting the babbling water lull me into forgetting time itself.
There's a specialty restaurant in Shuhe Ancient Town where many celebrities and famous people often dine when they come to Lijiang. It's by the Feihua Chushui (Flying Flowers Touch Water) area, and during the day, a singer performs at the bar across from it.
The small pot rice came with fried potatoes, a slight crispy crust on the bottom, perfectly seasoned, and served with pickles.
The Pu'er tea braised pork had a delicate tea fragrance, tender and not greasy. The sauce was great mixed with the pot rice.
The rose-infused ice jelly came with an extra serving of ice jelly, which helped cut through the richness. It would have been even better if it were colder.
Day 6: Jinsha River - Tiger Leaping Gorge
After finishing our visit to Shuhe Ancient Town, we entered the last day of our itinerary. We had booked a small-group tour with Zhao Min in a business van for the Shangri-La section of Tiger Leaping Gorge. Tiger Leaping Gorge is perfect for hiking, with jagged rocks piercing the sky and turbulent waters crashing. The river surged forward like thousands of galloping horses, majestic and grand. Even a hundred meters away, the spray from the rapids hitting the boulders reached us. Only by being there can one truly feel the river's mighty momentum. In summer, this sensation would be even more intense. Since it was a day trip, the morning activity was rafting along the Jinsha River's San Gu Shui (Three Strands Water) section. We drifted downstream, with willows waving on both banks and mountains stretching endlessly. Sitting in the rubber boat, the river suddenly seemed to tame, as if it had reined in its violent temper to welcome visitors from all corners of the world.
The return trip needs no words.
Again, I have to gripe about Lucky Air. We were uncertain whether we could take our 20x40x55 cm luggage on board. When checking in, we asked the staff if such a suitcase could be carried on, and we were told to verify at the security check. Maybe because we arrived early, but we were lucky and managed to bring it through without any issues. Our traveling companions were amazed and asked why we passed through; their luggage, identical to ours, had cost them 240 yuan in checked baggage fees.
Travel Tips for Lijiang:
1. Clothing: Lijiang's weather in March is changeable. Because it’s on the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, the air is dry, and there's a big temperature difference between morning and evening, strong winds, and intense UV rays. Bring a light down jacket or a thick coat, sunscreen, and lip balm to prevent sunburn and chapped skin.
2. Food & Hygiene: Drink plenty of water and eat more fruit (fresh fruit can be bought at the Zhongyi Market in Lijiang Old Town), otherwise you may have nosebleeds from the dry air.
3. Transportation: Lijiang Old Town has very convenient public transport; buses and taxis make it easy to get to the airport and train station.
4. Accommodation: There are plenty of inns and hotels in both Lijiang Old Town and Shuhe Ancient Town; you can check them on Ctrip or Mafengwo.
5. Nearby Attractions:
Yulong Snow Mountain (National 5A Scenic Area) – highly recommended.
Baisha Ancient Town is on the way to Yulong Snow Mountain.
Shuhe Ancient Town – a must-visit, a very comfortable little town.
Lijiang Old Town area: Climb the Wangu Tower on Lion Hill or the viewing platform at Wenchang Palace to watch the sunrise and sunset, and admire the panoramic view of the old town; explore the bar street at night; during the day, visit the Mu Mansion (the Tusi's residence), known as 'the Forbidden City of the North and the Mu Mansion of the South,' and Black Dragon Pool.
Dali; Shangri-La; Lugu Lake.
You can join local small-group tours to save time and relax.
Travelogue Contents: 1. Lijiang Old Town 2. Lashihai 3. Yulong Snow Mountain 4. Lijiang Old Town 5. Shuhe Ancient Town 6. Tiger Leaping Gorge 7. Afterword
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