Lijiang | I Fell for You the Very First Day
A person's life may seem long, but in reality, it's just a drop in the ocean. Some people trudge through in mediocrity, while others rush about in a hurry.
The world is so vast – why not go out and see it? Though life's path is but one, travel enriches us with deeper experiences. The mountains we've climbed, the rivers we've crossed, the people we've met, the stories we've heard – they inspire us with greater awe for nature and a deeper love for life. May we always keep a curious and innocent heart, to behold all the beautiful sights of the world.
The first time I came here, it felt as if I were in God's own palette, everything around me dreamlike and surreal. Everywhere I looked, a sea of gold.
As the clouds clear away summer's hues, rustling leaves announce autumn's song. With summer's lingering tail, autumn follows right behind. The crisp autumn air is so clear, you feel you could reach out and touch the white clouds. This highland city—Lijiang—has an indescribable charm that draws me in, making me never want to leave.
In late autumn, the ancient town is still warm by day and chilly at night. Step into the shade of a tree, and within moments a coolness creeps in. I've always remembered that the so-called ancient town is Dayan Ancient Town, and Shuhe is Shuhe. After many years, having roamed through so many landscapes, I returned to Lijiang and found that what filled me with memories wasn't the flagstone alleyways, nor the breath-stealing ascent of Yulong Snow Mountain, but that slightly warm, bright ray of sunshine – a golden beam of light.
Every inn here has its own character, and staying in a Lijiang inn never gets old. Some people want to spend a stretch of time in Lijiang, so they choose to stay at an inn for a month, unhurried and at ease, in total comfort. 'Chusu' is on Dayan Street, in a great location, and the hostess is incredibly warm and welcoming. The courtyard is packed with flowers and plants; on the rooftop, there's a balcony with billowing gauze curtains, a swaying swing, and fine, clear weather. For me, that's more than enough. How I've missed you, Lijiang.
Not far from the inn is the former residence of Fang Guoyu. A few steps further, there's a cultural and creative goods shop where you can send time-delayed postcards and buy dreamcatchers, keychains, and other little trinkets related to Lijiang. Every time I pass by, I can't resist going in for a look, even if I end up buying nothing. During the day, it’s a vintage-style market shop, but if you step inside and lift the curtain, it turns into a café-bar. Sometimes you'll catch a live singer performing; there aren't many customers, hidden away as if waiting for you to discover it on your own.
Before leaving, I'd thought about it just as a short weekend getaway, not wanting to rush to tourist spots, many of which I'd already visited years ago. So when the second day's more dedicated road trip began, we ended up with an unconventional Lijiang itinerary: just drive and stop wherever you feel. If you like, you could call it unlocking more off-the-beaten-path ways to explore Lijiang~
Snow Mountain Road is a road in Lijiang where you can see the snowy peak, stretching straight from the ancient town all the way toward Yulong Snow Mountain. Cherry blossoms in spring, the snow-capped mountain in every season, and along the way you'll also stumble upon forests, reed marshes, rivers – everything lovely that brings you close to nature. This time, the most fun wasn't the city itself, but the endless road. About halfway along Snow Mountain Road, there's an open patch. In fact, if you're driving in this direction, you'll easily spot this vast scenic spot. By the roadside there might be a sign for some wedding photography base, but it's actually very quiet, just the occasional car passing by. With the snowy mountain in sight, the entire Snow Mountain Road feels like a journey through scenery. The ancient town no longer feels like a town; as forests sweep by the roadside, for a second you'd think you're deep in the Canadian wilderness – a cool wind bringing that distinctive autumn pine fragrance. The phrase 'wearing a scent' couldn't be more fitting here.
One of the best things about a road trip is stopping wherever you please. This time, we paused at Dongba Valley Health and Wellness Town on the way to the snow mountain. You can park for free once inside, and there's plenty of space. A few RVs of different sizes, a large grassy area, set against mountains and water with few people around – I absolutely loved it. With the snow mountain close at hand and a green belt of vegetation in the distance, the layered scene forms a three-dimensional painting. We spent over an hour photographing – I even felt we stayed longer than the bridal party next to us. And later, as we continued forward, I still had no doubt that this was the best photo spot of the day.
Actually, I won't tell you that my camera battery died right around here. There was nothing else to do but drive back, though I left with so much regret.
It's not easy to see a starry sky in Lijiang, so when we spotted the couple's star-gazing RV at Dongba Valley Health and Wellness Town – where you can lie in bed and watch the stars – we didn't hesitate to book a night and give it a try. Inside the RV, there's a panoramic sunroof, a soft and comfortable king-size bed, a sofa, TV, air conditioning – every bit as good as a five-star hotel. And tonight, we were here especially to watch the stars. As night fell and the prime stargazing time arrived, the only sounds around were those of unknown insects – it felt just like going back to childhood. I hadn't seen stars this clear in a long time – countless, too many to count. Lying in bed, I felt no chill. I think this was the most unexpected surprise and reward of this trip to Lijiang.
Wenchang Palace is the second spot in the ancient town, besides Wangu Tower, where you can get a panoramic view of Lijiang. Head out from Square Street, wind along a narrow, winding path, and before long you'll arrive, slightly out of breath. The Qing dynasty architecture is full of antique charm, and the Naxi script along both sides of the road adds a touch of ethnic character. The whole way, you're walking toward Yulong Snow Mountain. It's said this is also one of the main filming locations for the TV series 'One Meter Sunshine'. The small square at the entrance is a perfect vantage point for a full panorama – orderly rooftops, the soft light of early morning, the entire ancient town laid out before you, as beautiful as when you first laid eyes on it.
Qingxi Reservoir is probably where youngsters go after school for a date or a stroll. Across the water, Yulong Snow Mountain looks back at you. The reservoir is also a drinking water source for Lijiang; its crystal-clear water reflects the surrounding mountains and grass, and the view is especially expansive. Xinyue told us that when she used to study in Lijiang, she'd come here after school to wander around, never thinking much of its beauty. It wasn't until she left that she kept missing the sunshine and air here, so she returned and became a local again. The reservoir isn't far from the ancient town. All along the way, you can see the snowy mountain in the distance, wrapped in clouds. The theme of the day was probably 'how to photograph the snow mountain from 360 degrees'.
In the end: In Lijiang, you're meant to while away the time – strolling along sun-drenched lanes, gazing at the snow mountain as the first ray of morning light falls, walking hand in hand by the lake at dusk...
Travelogue Catalog:
1. The Most Beautiful RV | Stars and Romance
2. Wenchang Palace | The Most Beautiful Rooftops
3. Qingxi Reservoir | Let’s Go on a Date
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