Revisiting Lijiang: A Private Villa Stay, Gazing at the Snowy Peak Under the Clouds
Lijiang, we meet again.
I have lost count of how many times I've been to Lijiang; it feels like I come every year. No matter what people say about how commercialized it has become, I still love coming here to laze around, daydream, and pet dogs. Though the ancient streets can be noisy, there is still a peaceful corner to be found. After spending too much time in the city, I always long to come to Lijiang and live a little life of my own. Coming to Lijiang never requires a meticulous travel plan—just a spur-of-the-moment ticket and an impulsive heart, and you will feel its beauty.
This National Day holiday, come to Lijiang with me and reclaim the trip you've been putting off. P.S. Stay till the end for my recommendations of must-visit, lesser-known Instagram-worthy spots in Lijiang. Another P.S. All text and photos are original; any unauthorized use of my images will be pursued!
Even though this is an impromptu trip, before heading to Lijiang I always search carefully for guesthouses and B&Bs. Previously I stayed inside the old town, but this time I wanted to escape its hustle and bustle, so I chose Yueyun Villa outside the old city. There I could watch flowers bloom and wither, see clouds drift and gather, and on clear days catch glimpses of the elusive Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
Nestled between Dayan Old Town and Shuhe Old Town, Yueyun Villa captured my heart the moment I laid eyes on it. Unlike ordinary hotels, Yueyun Villa consists of exquisite courtyard villa rooms, blending Lijiang's local flavor with agricultural landscape elements. Stepping inside Yueyun Villa feels like entering a delicate Jiangnan garden, with willows swaying in the breeze, flowers in full bloom, and beautiful scenery filling the entire compound.
The deep courtyards and gently swaying willows create a tranquil atmosphere that I find utterly enchanting.
During past visits to Lijiang, I used to wonder what it would feel like to stay in one place for an extended holiday, living like a temporary resident. I never imagined it would come true. Due to the pandemic and a typhoon, I ended up staying at Yueyun Villa for half a month. Perhaps it was the serene ambiance, or maybe it was Lijiang's lazy vibe, but once I settled in, I didn't want to leave.
Every morning I awoke in a courtyard filled with birdsong, gazed at the snowy mountain and daydreamed, stretched lazily while watching catkins float by. On fine days, I would stroll by the lake; before dusk, I'd head to the old town for some liveliness. But my favorite thing was simply staying in the private courtyard of my villa, savoring the joy of having a standalone house all to myself. At Yueyun Villa, I no longer felt like a passerby—I felt more like I was living here.
Yueyun Villa is made up of individual detached villas, with one-, two-, and three-bedroom options, perfect for families wanting a long, leisurely holiday together. So for the upcoming National Day break, it's an ideal place to enjoy a slow-paced life. Whether you're traveling solo or with a group, there's a cozy nest for you. And each villa has its own private entrance, ensuring privacy and plenty of quiet.
The standout feature of Yueyun Villa is its detached villas, which are quite rare in Lijiang. To make my vacation even more comfortable, I chose a three-story villa. On the ground floor, you enter into a spacious living room, designed with a clean, simple aesthetic in light, soothing colors that look very pleasing.
Beyond the living room is a kitchen. Yes, at Yueyun Villa you can cook your own meals. With the whole family together, you can prepare food, creating a warm, homely atmosphere. Further inside is the dining room, easily accommodating a family of several. Across from the kitchen, a spiral staircase leads to the second floor—a rather clever design.
The second floor has two bedrooms: one large room with a balcony and a smaller one. The third floor features a large room with a bay window, much more spacious than the rooms below. I adore that bay window; after waking up, I love lounging there, reading a book and taking in the scenery outside—so blissful.
The bedding at Yueyun Villa is incredibly comfortable. Once you sink into the soft, large bed, you'll hardly want to get up.
Every floor has a bathroom: a guest powder room on the first floor, a shower on the second, and a bathtub on the third. Open the blinds, and you can see the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain outside—bathing here is pure bliss.
During the day, I also enjoyed sitting on the balcony, gazing at the courtyard scenery and letting my mind wander. Sometimes life needs those slow-down moments to properly reset yourself.
Lijiang's most beautiful moments are early morning and evening. At night, when the lights come on in Yueyun Villa, they glow against the deep blue sky, creating a fantastical scene. The warm yellow lights on each villa softly illuminate the courtyard—neither too dim nor too bright—filling the whole compound with a quiet atmosphere. After experiencing noisy old towns, I realized this kind of environment is the Lijiang I love most.
In the hushed night, Yueyun Villa has its own unique ambiance. Having left behind the clamor of the old town, this tranquility is my favorite part.
Only when I sent my drone skyward did I grasp the villa's true scale. The Naxi-style standalone houses are arranged neatly in rows, with the distant snowy mountain peeking through. Spending the National Day holiday here must be wonderfully comfortable.
Surrounded by gardens and courtyards, from above Yueyun Villa resembles a lush park, with dense vegetation and a waterway winding through. Here you have mountains and water, trees and flowers—a resort hotel perfect for an extended stay.
How can you come to Lijiang without trying on the local ethnic costumes? Yueyun Villa provides traditional Naxi women's clothing, perfect for female guests to dress up and take photos around the courtyard. Transforming into a Naxi girl is like truly blending into Lijiang.
The villa offers several styles of Naxi attire and headdresses; choose the one you like best and take stunning photos in the courtyard. The moment I put one on, I finally felt I had really become a part of Lijiang.
I especially loved this red Naxi outfit, with its mix of red, black, and blue and rich ethnic flavor. Walking around the courtyard, I drew quite a few sideways glances.
Yueyun Villa also hosts various Naxi cultural activities, like making sachets. Under the guidance of a Naxi auntie, I sewed mugwort into a sachet, stitch by stitch, entirely on my own—a satisfying accomplishment. You can take it home as a keepsake.
There are also other hand-sewn items like plush dolls, tiny hats, and sachets in colorful traditional Naxi handcrafts. Guests can also make their own Naxi doll under the auntie's instruction—a special activity the hotel arranges as part of the holiday experience.
Evenings feature floating river lanterns and hanging prayer plaques. Under the night sky, releasing flower lanterns one by one into the courtyard's stream is romantic and full of atmosphere. The beautiful lanterns drift with the water, carrying our good wishes and blessings. Experiencing this ritual in Lijiang adds a unique charm.
When it comes to dining at Yueyun Villa, you have nothing to worry about. Your three meals are all taken care of, with the restaurant offering a variety of dishes from morning to night, including Naxi specialties, Chinese and Western classics, and a comforting personal hotpot. Breakfast is a buffet with Chinese and Western pastries, and I always start my day with a bowl of Yunnan rice noodles.
Lunch features carefully prepared dishes, both homestyle and local, nutritious and wholesome.
My favorite, though, is the wellness hotpot—one serving per person, just the right amount, with a balanced mix of mushrooms, vegetables, shrimp balls, and lamb. Eating it while dressed in Naxi costume added an extra special flavor.
The hotel also offers afternoon tea and fruit to guests, so even if you spend the afternoon resting, you won't go hungry.
Dayan Old Town is where the Lijiang dream begins—a place I've visited countless times, synonymous with romance. The large waterwheel at the ancient city gate turns endlessly, day and night, bearing witness to the young souls who come here to chase their dreams.
In Dayan Old Town, you can encounter a cherry blossom romance. Though it's not blossom season, there's a cherry blossom restaurant here that has recently made Lijiang hugely popular again. Rather than a restaurant, it's the most Instagrammable spot of the last couple of years. Flowers line the entire waterway, and at night, warm yellow lights come on, creating a very stylish vibe. Every step reveals a new picture-perfect scene; you can't help but admire the owner's aesthetic sense and marketing savvy. In the whole ancient town, this place is the most crowded—the throng is almost shoulder-to-shoulder.
Shuhe Old Town used to be so charming and peaceful, and it still retains its tranquility, though it feels a bit different now. Less noisy than Dayan, it still preserves the traditional Tea Horse Road culture. But if you want to enter, remember to go through a side gate instead of the main entrance—surprisingly, they've started charging an admission fee.
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is arguably Lijiang's icon. I'm not particularly keen on climbing the mountain itself; I prefer finding fresh angles to capture its full majesty. This spot, near Yuhu Village, is a wild, off-the-beaten-path area we stumbled upon accidentally. It's a bit tricky to find, but once we did, we began leisurely creating our photos there.
Tinghua Valley is a newly popular Instagram hotspot, combining nearly all the photogenic elements of Lijiang: snow-capped mountains, wildflowers, and wind-blown wheat fields. A whole day of shooting here still wouldn't feel like enough.
Baisha Old Town is Lijiang's most authentic Dongba culture ancient village. Only here can you feel the true flavor of the old Tea Horse Road. If you're seeking Lijiang's most primitive way of life, you must visit Baisha Old Town for a stroll.
Yuhu Village, a village at the foot of the snowy mountain, is built entirely of stone houses and walls. Due to its remote location, few travelers venture here, yet it is a true hidden paradise in Lijiang.