A Toothbrush May Not Love Toothpaste, but I Certainly Love Lijiang
Over the years, I’ve traveled to more and more places, farther and farther—solo with a backpack, in small groups of close friends, or hand in hand with a partner—but never once went on a real trip with my parents. Over the years, I’ve grown to love photography more and more; I love capturing landscapes, and I love photographing the people I meet along the way. I’ve taken photos of my travel companions, and of strangers, but I’ve never taken a single carefully composed picture of my parents. “Traveling together” was our promise, and finally, in 2021, I could fulfill that promise—taking Mom and Dad on a trip!
Of all the places I've been, the most soulful, surprisingly, was still Lijiang.
Gentle places always give rise to gentle happenings.
Honestly, if my mom hadn't suggested visiting Yulong Snow Mountain this time, I probably would have had a hard time choosing to stop in Lijiang.
In recent years, countless ancient cities have sprung up. I thought I’d seen enough old towns, ancient streets, and historic quarters to know the 'routine'—that all 'ancient cities' under heaven are the same, their styles just copied from one another. Moreover, people flocking to Lijiang over the years has made it overcrowded; many seasoned travelers no longer mention Lijiang Old Town. Plus, Lijiang’s reputation hasn’t been great lately. In today’s fiercely competitive tourism market, Yunnan province alone has seen many new landmarks rise. Lijiang seemed to have shed its splendid gown, no longer the Lijiang of our dreams.
So I admit, before setting off, I was a little dismissive of Lijiang. I thought it might be a 'take it or leave it' destination, and accordingly, I hadn’t planned much time there. Yet when the journey ended, I was very glad we had actually made the trip. We arrived in Lijiang at six in the evening, when the light was still plentiful. The sun was just starting to slant westward, its bright, gentle rays piercing through the clouds. The sky overhead was intensely blue, and the distant clouds were tinged with gold. Rolling down the car window, I felt the spring breeze from the highland and the snow mountain—sharper than the spring winds elsewhere: sunshine warm, breeze cool. The clean air combined with the dry inland climate made the sky exceptionally clear. It felt like my favorite kind of autumn day. Yet everywhere, flowers were blooming profusely, and in the distance, the sacred snow mountain stood majestic. Here was the vitality of spring, the passion of summer, the depth of autumn, and the quiet of winter. No wonder people describe 'Colorful Yunnan' and always reserve what they deem the richest hues for Lijiang.
So this is Lijiang, I couldn’t help thinking. It seems I may have misjudged her. We can’t just 'hear about a place' or even 'see it through others’ photos.' Listening to others’ words and viewing their pictures can never compare to setting foot on that soil and experiencing its sunshine, wind, rain, and snow firsthand. The young driver sent by Yuxin to pick us up didn’t talk much; he quietly turned on some music. Xie Chunhua’s song 'I Will Definitely Fall in Love With You' was so fitting at that moment.
Although Lijiang Old Town was crowded with tourists, its streets and alleys were small and intricate, making it easy to find a quiet spot to just zone out. If you want to avoid the hubbub of places like Sifang Street, you can head towards the south of the town. It’s not as bustling as the north gate area, but it captures the essence of the ancient city better.
Getting lost in the night, daydreaming in the sun—Lijiang is just Lijiang. We just meet, and never ask when we’ll part...
Yulong Snow Mountain is a mountain range in Lijiang, about 15 kilometers north of the city. It is the snow-capped mountain closest to the equator in the Northern Hemisphere that has snow all year round. Its 13 peaks are arranged longitudinally from south to north. The highest peak, Shanzidou, rises to 5,596 meters, with perpetual snow. In the Naxi language, Yulong Snow Mountain is called 'Oulu,' meaning 'silver rock.' The 13 snow peaks stretch endlessly, like a giant dragon soaring, hence the name 'Jade Dragon.' It is a sacred mountain for the Naxi people, believed to be the embodiment of the Naxi protective deity 'Sanduo.'
At the 4,506-meter high point, I gazed into the distance, and the cloud wisps seemed just an arm’s length away. In the morning on the snow mountain, the sky changed ceaselessly. I could only keep clicking the shutter, afraid of missing a single moment of beauty. Greedy and foolish human that I am.
But in the end, I couldn’t capture this unpredictable beauty with any lens. So I simply turned off the camera, found a railing, and let the mountain wind, carrying lingering snow, brush past my cheeks...
Apart from the mysterious tropical rainforest, the majestic Yulong Snow Mountain was also a highlight of my mom’s trip. Before going up, she was definitely the most excited person in our entire group! But my dad, being in poor health with respiratory and blood pressure issues, and more importantly, worried that his health problems might hinder our fun and hold my mom and me back, seemed less relaxed. But as it turned out, Yulong Snow Mountain is reachable for anyone in normal health. Following the instructions of our driver-guide Ajie, my dad inhaled oxygen properly and promptly, and felt no discomfort. The three of us had a great time playing around. The only thing was, it was quite cold at the summit; worried they might catch a chill, we descended a bit earlier than the main group.
Blue Moon Valley, like a pool of a beauty’s tears.
Melting snow and ice from Yulong Snow Mountain flow into a river through a valley on the mountain’s eastern flank. Because the moon’s reflection in the blue lake against the sky’s blue backdrop resembles the Blue Moon Valley in James Hilton’s Lost Horizon, it was named 'Blue Moon Valley.'
As the river in Blue Moon Valley flows, it is blocked by the mountain, forming four larger bodies of water known as Jade Liquid Lake, Mirror Pool Lake, Blue Moon Lake, and Listening-to-the-Waves Lake. The lakeshores are lush with vegetation, with distant snow peaks as backdrop. Below Blue Moon Valley lies a ravine where trees grow densely and clear streams flow endlessly. The river flowing at the bottom, called Baishui (White Water) River, gets its name because its bed and terraces are composed of white marble and limestone fragments, giving it a grayish-white color. Even the mountain spring water running over the stones appears white. Like Blue Moon Valley, the water of Baishui River originates from melting glaciers and snowfields at altitudes of 4,000 to 5,000 meters.
At Yunshanping (Spruce Meadow), there is a ticket office for the Blue Moon Valley electric cart; the fare is 50 yuan per person. Unless you have serious mobility issues, I’d actually recommend walking through Blue Moon Valley and along the Baishui River. The cart stops at the classic spots, but they are invariably crowded, and the photos end up being generic tourist shots. If you walk, the route isn’t too long. You’ll have fun as you stroll along, and walking by the water reveals many unique angles. Of course, if you have elderly folks or children with you, the electric cart is a good option—this path is neither too long nor too short, and it does have some slope.
On the way to Ganhaizi, my dad had the air of a leader on an inspection tour.
After leaving Ganhaizi, our Yulong Snow Mountain-related itinerary wrapped up. Ajie 'threw in' a visit to Cherry Blossom Avenue. This avenue in Lijiang has only become popular in recent years. It’s a newly built road in a residential-commercial area descending from the snow mountain, lined with lush double-petaled cherry blossoms in a deep pink hue. They are very eye-catching; from a distance, they look like pink clouds hovering over the road and among the hills.
Shuhe Ancient Town is part of the cultural heritage, so understandably, as a heritage site, the facilities are a bit old but well-preserved. Visitors here are mostly tour groups. Shuhe Ancient Town retains traditional Naxi architectural styles, exuding a stronger ethnic flavor overall. Right after entering, you come upon Sifang Tingyin Square, said to be the largest entertainment venue. During the day, we saw local ethnic song and dance performances, and in the evening, there’s supposedly a bonfire party. Compared to Lijiang Old Town, the buildings here are older and there are far fewer people, making it much more peaceful.
Restaurant: Fuxian Small Pot Rice
Location: Inside Lijiang’s Shuhe Ancient Town
Ambience: Traditional charm with small bridges over flowing streams
Service: The waiter was super friendly
Dishes: Signature small pot rice—the reason we came—with crispy rice crust, potatoes, beans, carrots, and meat, all delicious.
Pu’er tea braised pork: Rich but not greasy, with the fragrance of Pu’er tea wafting around.
Cumin yellow beef: Very fresh and tender, perfectly stir-fried, delicious.
Shuixing Yanghua (a local aquatic plant): First time trying it—a fascinating flavor!
Everything else we ordered was excellent, with no misses.
Price: About 40 yuan per person, great value.
Bonus: Many celebrities have dined here and spoken highly of it; locals recommend it, and it’s well-regarded and popular!
Definitely a special local restaurant worth trying. Loved it!
Rain or wind along the way, every journey must end. On the last day, due to a flight schedule change, we suddenly had an extra half-day in Lijiang, our final stop. I didn’t plan any activities for that half-day; instead, I just stole a bit of leisure in a very 'Lijiang' way. I slept in for the first time in ages, a truly satisfying lazy morning, not waking until eight or nine when the sunlight streamed into the room. I experienced what it’s like to be awakened by the sun. Pushing open the window, sunshine and the morning breeze rushed in together. On the inn’s viewing terrace, the auntie had just watered the fresh flowers, and the droplets refracted the sunlight into seven colors. This is Colorful Yunnan.
Gazing at the sunlight before me, a sudden surge of emotion welled up. I realized that not only grand scenery can awe you, but also a truly beautiful patch of sunshine can move you. 'Gentle places always give rise to gentle happenings.' Yes, Yunnan is just such a place.
To me, this wasn’t an ordinary trip. It was the first time I traveled with my parents, and I was more nervous than on my first solo trip, even more than my first big journey! The reason for the nerves was simple: I really wanted to give them a 'perfect' trip. When I was little, I was afraid of my dad; I always thought he was stern. Now, I’m still afraid of him—afraid that he’s aging too fast, that I won’t have time to care for him, that I haven’t become his pride... We had great fun on this trip. I felt a little consoled. But I know there’s still so much more I need to do, and their time is growing ever shorter. In the photos, their gazes are just as gentle and strong as ever. Perhaps because behind the lens is the daughter they love most.
