Yunnan: South of the Colorful Clouds, Long-Lasting Memories – A 15-Day Trip Through Yunnan
In July 2021, I spent half a month traveling through Yunnan with my parents, visiting Kunming, Dali, Lijiang, Shangri-La, and Xishuangbanna. The pace was relaxed and comfortable, and we covered all the representative sights. I spent half a month preparing, booking all day tours, hotels, and flights online, and the trip went almost flawlessly. Due to the pandemic, even during the summer peak season, the attractions were relatively uncrowded, and our experience was excellent. Guesthouse prices and meals within the old towns were very affordable. The total cost per person (including long-distance transport, accommodation, tour packages, chartered cars and taxis, local specialties and fruit) came to about 7,800 yuan. It was a semi-independent trip: we joined small, no-shopping tours when needed, and hired private cars along the way. The itinerary was not rushed; it was quite flexible, yet we managed to experience almost everything worth seeing and doing. Yunnan’s scenery and people are beautiful – I will definitely go back again.
(Note: In July 2021, the passenger railway to Xishuangbanna was not yet open, so we flew in and out. The railway is now operational, making travel to Xishuangbanna more economical and convenient.)
There were no direct flights from my hometown to Kunming, so I arrived in Tianjin in advance. We departed Tianjin in the morning and landed at Kunming Airport around 1:30 p.m. After taking a taxi to our pre-booked downtown hotel, it was about 3:00 p.m. (Many hotels and guesthouses in Yunnan have triple rooms, convenient for families. The hotel I booked in Kunming was a triple room with two bedrooms, giving us both privacy and the ability to look after one another, all at a reasonable price.) Towards evening, we took a taxi to Dianchi Lake. You can feed the pigeons there and have photos taken at the “Mirror of the Sky” photo spot (10 yuan per person). But Yunnan has so many stunning landscapes that Dianchi Lake seemed a bit less impressive in comparison.
The next day, I had pre-booked an online day tour. The Stone Forest is famously a must-see. But if you only visit the Stone Forest, you return quite early, so I chose a combo tour: Stone Forest plus Jiuxiang. It proved to be well worth it. The underground river at Jiuxiang is spectacular (photos don’t do it justice), with water rushing powerfully – you feel so small. The karst cave is also worth a visit; it’s completely different from the Yinzi Cave I saw in Guilin. The cave here is huge, including the Lion’s Hall that covers over 10,000 square meters with a single, intact ceiling slab. At Jiuxiang, you can also enjoy a short drift boat ride along a narrow waterway through the gorge, with a boatman steering, so you can simply admire the scenery and take photos. We returned to the city around 6:00 or 7:00 p.m. That evening, we ate at Qiaoxiangyuan Cross-Bridge Rice Noodles. I recommend ordering the simplest, classic version – it tasted great!
(Whenever I travel with my parents, I like to book local, no-shopping day tours, and for longer distances, two-day tours. It’s hassle-free and economical, but be sure to read reviews carefully and choose good tour products; don’t go for cheap shopping tours.)
After breakfast, we took the high-speed train to Dali. Just outside the railway station, you’ll see the tourist shuttle bus stop; you can ride directly to Dali Ancient Town, which is very convenient. Dali’s entire tourist transport system is excellent. There are tourist shuttle buses connecting the urban station, scenic spots, and even Lijiang. Online, on the “Dali Tourism Service” platform, you can check shuttle times and buy tickets. But be careful at Dali Ancient Town where there is more than one pick-up point; allow extra time to avoid going to the wrong place. From the drop-off point at Dali Ancient Town, it was about a 10-minute walk to our pre-booked guesthouse, located near the South Gate. I highly recommend staying near the South Gate – it’s convenient for meals, transport, and sightseeing. After a short rest, in the afternoon we took a ride-hailing taxi to Xizhou Ancient Town.
I’ve been to too many ancient towns of all sizes across China. What makes Xizhou unique and worth seeing is its wheat fields – lush green and wide open. My mother absolutely loved it. There are paths leading into the fields, so you can stand among the crops and take beautiful photos. Exploring takes about two hours. We hailed a taxi back to the old town. We strolled around the ancient town a bit, then had dinner outside the South Gate and returned to the guesthouse to rest.
The next morning, we got up early and took a taxi to the morning market at the North Gate – both to buy breakfast and to buy blueberries. The blueberries there were incredibly cheap, fresh, and delicious, sold by local villagers who had just harvested them. The market is largely used by locals, selling vegetables, fruit, and flowers. The old town’s early morning air is so fresh – if you have time, take a walk and soak up the atmosphere.
After breakfast, we headed to the Cangshan Mountain scenic area. We used the shuttle bus mentioned earlier. I bought a combined cable car ticket for Cangshan online, which included a round-trip tourist shuttle. The shuttle makes a stop where you can rent down jackets (30 yuan each at the time, much cheaper than at the summit; the jackets are waterproof, like raincoats) and oxygen canisters, completely voluntary. I’d recommend renting a jacket because the weather on the mountain can be very different from below. That day, the weather at the foot was brilliant, but the summit was shrouded in thick fog and we even had heavy rain – it was freezing! (Unfortunately, the fog meant we saw almost nothing at the top, which was the trip’s one regret.) Alternatively, you could dress warmly or wear a waterproof jacket and then rent extra clothing on the summit when you see the conditions. But definitely wear comfortable shoes – there are many steps to climb on Cangshan.
There are three cable car routes on Cangshan. The longest and most scenic is the Ximatan Cable Car, which reaches the summit, and of course it’s the most expensive. If your health permits, I suggest choosing this one, which I did. However, this cable car closes when the wind is strong on the summit; at such times, you can only descend and cannot ascend. So check the weather before booking online. Even though the summit was foggy and we didn’t see Ximatan Lake, as the cable car descended below the cloud layer, we were treated to a panoramic view of Dali Ancient Town and Erhai Lake – breathtakingly beautiful!
Around 3:00 p.m., we took a taxi to our guesthouse in Shuanglang Ancient Town. I had pre-booked a sea-view room with a wonderful location: large balcony, floor-to-ceiling windows, and a spacious terrace furnished with recliners where you could sit, feel the breeze, and gaze at the lake. The view was wide open, with Erhai Lake right below. My parents loved this room; after several days of touring, we were a bit tired, and this comfortable setting was perfect for resting and enjoying some slow travel time. Shuanglang has many guesthouses like this. To really experience Erhai Lake, I recommend staying in Shuanglang.
Since we had already visited Xizhou and Dali, today’s Erhai Lake excursion started from Shuanglang Ancient Town, followed the East Coast route, and ended at Dali Railway Station. Because I was traveling with my parents, I didn’t choose a self-drive rental or consider cycling. (For future solo trips, I wouldn’t cycle or ride an electric scooter either – Yunnan’s UV radiation is extremely strong, so it’s easy to get sunburned. Be sure to protect yourself from the sun.) I had arranged a private driver online in advance: 450 yuan for the day, with the departure time and route settled the day before. The driver not only drove but also acted as our part-time photographer. He wasn’t a professional, but he was better than the average person, and he gave us all the photos he took. As a local, he knew every photo-worthy spot. I felt this was a day well spent; we took it slow, stopping frequently, mainly to capture nice photos for the family as mementos. We set off at 10:30 a.m. and reached Dali Railway Station after 5:00 p.m. My parents took the high-speed train to Lijiang, while I had to go back to Kunming for something.
I had also pre-booked our Lijiang guesthouse and agreed with the owner to have a car pick up my parents at Lijiang Railway Station and bring them to the guesthouse, for an extra charge. The guesthouse was near Zhongyi Market, convenient for getting in and out of the old town, and also easy for tour guides to find when picking up guests for day tours. There’s a night market at Zhongyi Market with many food stalls; almost every night in Lijiang, we went there to stroll. There were also plenty of fruit vendors, offering fresh, cheap produce.
I didn’t go to Lugu Lake myself, so I have no first-hand experience or photos. My parents took a small group day tour I had booked online for them. They said the scenery was lovely.
The next day, we didn’t plan any excursions; we just wandered around Lijiang Ancient Town, relaxed, went back to the guesthouse when tired, and found a pleasant restaurant to try local specialties when hungry. Life in Lijiang was truly leisurely.
The first stop on our two-day Shangri-La tour was Tiger Leaping Gorge. I’ve visited Hukou Waterfall before, but Tiger Leaping Gorge was even more breathtaking and had a completely different character. To reach the viewing platform, you need to climb many steps. If you don’t want to climb, you can buy a ticket for the elevator.
The second stop was Pudacuo National Park. As a national forest park, you see forests and lakes. You can explore by boat or on foot. Most people walk, but taking the boat probably offers a different perspective. Along the walking trail, you might see cute little squirrels. The third stop that evening was the local chieftain’s banquet, actually a small hotpot. There was an unlimited supply of meat, but the vegetable choice was limited to potatoes and cabbage – understandable on the plateau. Some might find the food not to their taste, but the main thing is to experience local customs and the lively atmosphere. When the weather is good, a bonfire party is held outdoors; that day it rained, so the activities were indoors only.
In Shangri-La, we stayed in a loft suite in a courtyard-style hotel with Tibetan character – a stay I still remember vividly. It was very comfortable and satisfying. Before going to Shangri-La, it’s wise to bring anti-altitude-sickness medicine, usually taken before bedtime, since Shangri-La sits on the plateau.
The second day of the two-day tour had no major sights. In the morning, we went horseback riding – an optional activity included in almost all online tour groups. It’s best not to carry a sling bag while riding; try not to wear a dress, as horses can be spooked; and if you’re nervous, someone will lead the horse. Yunnan horses are a short breed, different from the ones I’ve ridden in Inner Mongolia. At noon, we visited the guide’s home for lunch, where we tried butter tea, highland barley, yak jerky, and more – all quite delicious. You could also buy saffron, notoginseng, and other medicinal herbs there, with no hard sell. In the afternoon, we returned to Lijiang.
Compared with Dali and Lijiang, I personally felt Shangri-La was slightly less engaging. If your time is limited, you could leave it for a future trip. If you have enough time, it’s still worth a visit, as Shangri-La is so famous – go and have a look so you won’t have regrets.
For Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, I booked a small group of five online, with the option to depart early or late. We chose the early departure and were among the first to take the cable car up. The mountain wasn’t crowded, but in late July there was no snow, only glaciers. There are a great many steps to climb; you need to go slowly and take in extra oxygen. We were lucky: when we ascended, the weather was good and we saw the glaciers. By the time we descended, the later groups were going up, but fog had rolled in and visibility was very low, making it hard to see anything. The summit weather is unpredictable; traveling in Yunnan requires a bit of luck. Jade Dragon Snow Mountain was my father’s and my favorite spot.
After taking the cable car down, we followed the crowd and got on a bus to Blue Moon Valley. I visited Jiuzhaigou with my parents a few years ago, and Blue Moon Valley is somewhat similar, with its blue-green water.
Lijiang offers two major shows: “Impression Lijiang” and “The Romance of Lijiang”. On previous trips, I always watched such local performances, but none left a lasting impression. After doing some research online, this time I chose “Impression Lijiang”. It’s the only open-air, daytime, real-scenery performance. When the weather is fine, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain forms a natural backdrop behind the stage. The performers are not professional actors but villagers from nearby villages, representing various ethnic groups. The result feels incredibly authentic. There are no stage lights or elaborate sets – only the blue sky, the snow mountain, and the people who have lived on this land using their most ancient, traditional, and unadorned forms to tell its history, life, and stories. I absolutely loved this show; it moved me profoundly. During the second half, it poured with rain, but the performers were extremely dedicated, wearing their traditional costumes (which must have been heavy when soaked) and carrying on earnestly until the end. I suggest that everyone take one of the free raincoats available at the entrance. Yunnan’s weather is changeable; during the show, umbrellas are not allowed, so the raincoat will keep you dry and prevent you from having to leave midway.
We rested in the morning, then after lunch took a taxi to the airport and flew to Xishuangbanna. We checked into a guesthouse in Gaozhuang Xishuangjing, just a few minutes’ walk from the Starlight Night Market. The setting was pleasant, and it was relatively quiet. (Xishuangbanna has a tropical climate with lots of vegetation – and lots of bugs. I even saw many geckos there, which, as a northerner, I found a bit alarming since I wasn’t used to them.)
In July, Dali and Lijiang are cool enough in the mornings and evenings that you need a long-sleeved jacket and long pants. But Xishuangbanna has a typical tropical climate, and as northerners we found it hard to adjust. It was hot and muggy. We took a taxi to Manting Park and had to stop and rest frequently while walking around. Manting Park has a strong ethnic flavor; it was once the imperial garden of the Dai king. It’s also a very representative scenic spot in the city, where you can see architecture, plants, temples, and even elephant shows. After entering the main gate, there is a small gate leading to Zongfo Temple; after visiting the temple, you can re-enter Manting Park with your earlier ticket to continue sightseeing. Our ride-hailing driver told us that unless you have a personal religious interest and just want to get a feel, after visiting Zongfo Temple you might skip the Grand Buddha Temple.
The Starlight Night Market was bustling, with food, entertainment, and souvenirs. Many vendors sell Dai-style clothing – remember to bargain. When you come to the night market, prioritize the experience, and don’t casually sign up for travel photos based on street promotions. If you want to do a photo shoot, research reputable studios and photographers online in advance, or visit various shops (you’ll see them everywhere along the streets), look at their costumes and sample photos, compare, and then decide. The Golden Pagoda is also right at the night market. Every evening in Banna, I would come here to wander and stroll – it was utterly delightful.
For this day, I had booked a no-shopping day tour. Most fellow travelers were parents with children. We saw elephants, monitor lizards, and butterflies. There was a small surprise: after I came out of the butterfly house, a butterfly landed on my hat and stayed for over half an hour before flying away – a little delight. To look for wild elephants, you can walk along the boardwalk or take a cable car. No one in our group opted for the cable car; walking in the forest was very pleasant, and you could turn back whenever you felt tired. One family in the group took their child on a “rainforest elephant walk,” where you can walk at close quarters with an elephant mother and her baby through the forest – if you’re interested, you might look into that program. We were unlucky; we didn’t spot any wild elephants, only the elephant show in the park. The heat killed my appetite, so for lunch I skipped the group meal and ordered food à la carte while watching the performance – prices were reasonable and the food was decent.
Xishuangbanna is known for elephants and peacocks. The “peacock release” is the signature attraction of the Primeval Forest Park here. I’d never seen so many peacocks in my life, nor had I seen peacocks fly. The park also has a small water-splashing activity. We didn’t join in, just watched from the side, but we still felt the joy and enthusiasm. After the group tour ended, my mother and I went to a travel photo studio I had selected online. The shooting poses and locations were rather formulaic and over quickly, but the final results were good: all raw files were given to us, plus ten retouched photos, a nice keepsake.
I’m not particularly into plants, but since I was here, I had to visit the Tropical Botanical Garden. The environment was wonderful, with all sorts of novel tree species. Looking back, though, what sticks in my memory most is the giant water lily (Victoria amazonica). It can hold a person’s weight; children or lighter women can sit on the leaves for photos. This day’s group also had many kids. I heard that you can even take children on a night tour of the botanical garden, which must be a different kind of experience.
At noon, we flew back to Beijing.
Travelogue Contents 1. Foreword 2. Day 1: Tianjin – Kunming 3. Day 2: Stone Forest – Jiuxiang 4. Day 3: Kunming – Dali, Xizhou Ancient Town 5. Day 4: Cangshan – Shuanglang Ancient Town 6. Day 5: Erhai Lake Tour (Private Car) – Lijiang 7. Day 6: Lugu Lake 8. Day 7: Lijiang Ancient Town 9. Days 8–9: Two-Day Shangri-La Tour 10. Day 10: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – Blue Moon Valley – Impression Lijiang 11. Day 11: Lijiang – Xishuangbanna 12. Day 12: Manting Park 13. Day 13: Wild Elephant Valley, Xishuangbanna Primeval Forest Park 14. Day 14: Xishuangbanna Tropical Botanical Garden, Chinese Academy of Sciences 15. Day 15: Return Journey, Xishuangbanna – Beijing
