After 5 Trips to Lijiang, Yunnan, Collect These Off-the-Radar Spots!
Five trips to Lijiang
From childhood, I've dreamed of Lijiang — that mysterious ancient town where every home has water and every household has flowers. As it turns out, all the ancient towns across the country were modeled after Lijiang. Though it's not as trendy now, Lijiang Ancient Town is undeniably the pioneer of ancient town tourism; when it became famous, traveling itself was still a novelty. I keep coming back to Lijiang. I love the endless Naxi village paths, the winter cherry blossom road by the snow mountain, and especially Lijiang’s sunny weather all year round. It seems every time I arrive, the sun is shining brightly. Tourists know Dayan Ancient Town, but not necessarily the secluded paradise villages on the other side of the hill. They know climbing Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, but not the scenery where Tibetan Buddhism on Snake Mountain meets the snow-capped peaks.
For impatient travelers, you can follow these headings to "tour": A. Dayan Ancient Town 90-yuan costume photoshoot B. Heilongtan Park for snow mountain views C. Red Valley Slope Art District for snow mountain views D. Baisha Ancient Town – the origin of the Naxi people E. Shuhe Ancient Town – what Dayan was like a decade ago F. Wenhai Village – a self-sufficient hidden paradise G. Fuguo Temple – the mother temple of Lijiang's five great monasteries H. Lijiang Golden Pagoda – China’s only golden pagoda in Tibetan Buddhism I. Dewei Village – an ancient Naxi settlement J. Lugu Lake – a highland freshwater lake straddling Sichuan and Yunnan provinces K. Walking Marriage Bridge – the Mosuo walking marriage tradition L. Luyuan Cliff – the source of Lugu Lake M. Lover’s Beach – where lovers vow to be together N. Lige Peninsula – the waterborne Kingdom of Women Total cost: 2000 yuan/person, suggested duration: 4 days.
Every time I come to Lijiang, I stay in Dayan Ancient Town. Not only because it's one of China’s four great ancient towns, but also for the highly cost-effective inns. I love staying in courtyard houses full of Naxi flavor, in a two-story wooden attic, leaning on the balcony and gazing at the courtyard view. In an instant, I can escape the city's chaos, feeling the poetic “I built my hut among people, yet no noise of cart or horse.” No matter how many times I visit, I always wander Dayan Ancient Town. Strip away the neon lights and nightlife, and it’s just a thousand-year-old village.
Ancient town time travel: For just 99 yuan, you can dress in ancient costume and take a set of portrait photos. I chose the outfit of ‘Zixia Fairy’ – a simple ponytail, top and long skirt – and instantly traveled back through centuries, as if arriving in Lijiang a thousand years ago.
Near the north gate of Dayan Ancient Town lie many hidden gems, often overlooked by first-time visitors.
Heilongtan Park: During the pandemic, the park was open for free, and this was my first visit. Lijiang's Heilongtan Park was built in the second year of Emperor Qianlong’s reign, originally called Yuquan Dragon King Temple. Guo Moruo’s poetic couplet vividly describes the scene: “Dragon Pool reflects thirteen peaks, hidden dragons in the sky, flying dragons on earth; jade waters flow half a mile, black jade as body, pale jade as spirit.” The spring water is clear, azure blue, and under sunlight shines like a brilliant gem with fine textures. The pavilions and peaks mirrored in the pool create a landscape painting at every step. In the distance, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain towers; on a clear winter day with not a cloud, its crisp silhouette is reflected in the pool, the snowy summit a vast expanse of white. Admission: temporarily free, but reservation via WeChat public account required. Transport: buses 4, 2, 3, 13, etc. Within walking distance from the north area of the ancient town.
Hidden among the forests of Yushui Street and Yushuifang in Lijiang’s old city center lies a creative arts district. It's called Red Valley Slope Art District, built on a hillside. You follow a winding mountain road up to discover this art zone hidden deep in the mountains. Located north of Dayan Ancient Town, it combines clusters of traditional folk houses, music art, creative handcrafts, and public horticultural landscapes into a music and handicraft dual-industry park. It also serves as an art incubator, creative exhibition space, and natural scenic spot – an emerging art destination in Lijiang. Leveraging 88 precious ancient trees and the natural forest scenery, it creates an art park in Lijiang’s most scenic belt. On the music side, it boasts Lijiang's first professional livehouse venue for a thousand people, perfect for large gatherings. Facing Heilongtan, with distant views of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and nestled in ancient towering trees, you can savor the finest ambiance of nature and music. Admission: free. Transport: buses 3, 4, 28, 11, etc.
People often equate Dayan Ancient Town with Lijiang Ancient Town, but few know where the true origin lies. About 10 kilometers north of Lijiang, there is a Naxi town retaining its authentic character – not only a key birthplace of Naxi culture but the very origin of Lijiang’s ancient towns. Baisha Ancient Town sits at the foot of Jade Dragon Mountain. Its history dates back over a thousand years to the Tang Dynasty, when the Mu clan regime of Lijiang established Baisha Street, making it the political, cultural, and commercial center of the Naxi people. They channeled mountain springs from Jade Dragon Snow Mountain into the village, improving living conditions and boosting commerce. Handicrafts and trade flourished, centered on copper forging and textile embroidery, which gradually disappeared after the 1950s. Early in the morning, elderly locals in traditional Naxi attire sit under the city wall selling fresh vegetables. A few stalls offer steaming breakfasts, and the Naxi way of life fills the air… Admission: free. Transport: bus 6.
People say if you want to see what Dayan Ancient Town was like ten years ago, come to Shuhe. Few know that the beloved comedy series "My Own Swordsman" sequel "Longmen Escort" was filmed in Shuhe Ancient Town, depicting a Yunnan town far from the secular world. A 20-minute drive north from Dayan brings you to Shuhe. Shuhe has eight famous sights: Misty Willows at Pingqiao – willow leaves shading the flat bridge, flowing water, and spring greenery spilling over the bridgehead; Fireflies at Night Market – village torches and town lights twinkling, illuminating Shuhe’s night market with a warm glow; Chime of Broken Stele – by the lake, a broken stele when struck with a stone produces a crisp sound; Red Leaves on Western Hills – many lacquer trees on the western hills turn red in autumn, carrying deep lovesickness; Fish Close to People – legend says there are sacred fish in Jiulong Pool; when locals feed them, the fish playfully approach; Longmen Moon Gazing – Qinglong Bridge, over 400 years old, its axis pointing toward Jubaoshan, hence “Longmen Moon Gazing”; Snow Mountain Reflection – ancient trees on both sides of Longquan Mountain, Jiulong Pool’s crystal-clear water reflecting Jade Dragon Snow Mountain; Lian Shi Night Reading – Shilian Temple on Shilian Mountain housed a school during the Republic of China era, where students studied at night. Admission: enter through the back gate without a ticket. Transport: tourist bus 111.
Wenhai Village is in Baisha Township, Yulong County, Lijiang. Across the mountain from Baisha Ancient Town, the village has only about 200 households with fewer than 1,000 people living on over 3,300 hectares of vast land. The road to Wenhai is entirely mountainous; before the winding road was built in 2012, there was no direct route, making Wenhai a hidden, unpolluted paradise. Only in recent years has it been discovered by hikers and self-driving travelers. Over the mountain, a 30-minute drive brings you to Wenhai. From the downhill stretch, you catch glimpses of a large blue lake and pale green grassland. The village clusters on the flat lakeside. The land isn’t ideal, so locals live by animal husbandry, with herds of cattle and horses grazing on the meadows. The houses are all low, self-built farmhouses. A clear lake nourishes the few households, all relatives and close neighbors leading a leisurely life of sunrise farming. Transport: about 1-hour drive from Lijiang Ancient Town, car rental approx. 150 yuan round trip. Hiking: a full-day round trip, take bus 6 to Baisha Town then hike over a mountain, about 8 hours total. Admission: currently no commercialization, villagers live here, no entrance fee. Best season: May to October, especially summer when grass is lush, flowers blanket the fields, and the lake expands during the high-water season.
On the hill behind Baisha Ancient Town stands Fuguo Temple, once visited by Xu Xiake. Fuguo Temple is the mother temple of Lijiang’s five great monasteries and Lijiang’s first Tibetan Buddhist temple, the largest Karma Kagyu monastery in Yunnan. Built in the 29th year of Emperor Wanli’s reign in the Ming Dynasty, it was damaged by warfare in 1864 during the Qing Tongzhi era and rebuilt in the eighth year of Emperor Guangxu’s reign. After more turmoil, the complex was nearly destroyed until reconstruction began in 2009, and the new temple was completed on the same site in 2015 – what we see today. Admission: free. Transport: bus only goes to Baisha, then over an hour’s walk; it's recommended to take a taxi round trip and combine it with Wenhai Village.
The Great Golden Pagoda Temple stands on Snake Mountain in Lijiang, facing Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the distance, offering breathtaking views. It is said to have been first built in the Tang Dynasty, rebuilt through the Ming and Qing dynasties, with over a thousand years of history. Continuous renovations have made it even more splendid. Covering 109 mu, the temple complex features a gold-plated Maitreya Buddha statue, Guanyin Hall, Thousand Buddhas and Ten Thousand Lamps Hall, King Ashoka’s Wealth God Hall, and the main golden pagoda hall, forming the Golden Pagoda scenic area. Climbing Snake Mountain, you overlook the majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and the magnificent alpine landscape of Lijiang. Colorful prayer flags flutter in the temple, adding an exotic touch. Tibetan Buddhist architecture is characterized by golden pagoda spires, small stupas surrounding large ones, and gilded finishes. Admission: free. Transport: bus 15.
Heading down from the Golden Pagoda Temple, take a detour to the ancient Naxi village of Dewei. In Dongbazi, Jinshan Township, Dongyuan Community, lies this old village mainly inhabited by Naxi people, with Bai, Yi, and other ethnic minorities. The village entrance arch on Lida Road signals your arrival. Agriculture is the main livelihood, with corn and wheat as staples. In autumn and winter, golden corn cobs are piled high in farmhouses – a scene of harvest. Traditional Naxi houses are often in the “three rooms and a screen wall” layout: the main building is a two-story brick-and-wood house, flanked by single-story structures, with a screen wall directly opposite. They feature a “four courtyards and five skylights” design with two successive yards, creating a harmonious and layered layout. Admission: free. Transport: bus 15.
Lugu Lake is about a 4-hour mountain drive from Lijiang Ancient Town, so chartering a car is the most convenient. To save money, you can carpool for about 150 yuan per person round trip, including a full-day tour and lunch. I don’t really recommend a day trip; Lugu Lake is a fairyland where immortals dwell – it’s worth slowing down, staying a night by the shore, and soaking in the relaxed lifestyle. Straddling the Sichuan–Yunnan border is a highland fault lake called Lugu Lake (also known as Luokou Haizi). This plateau lake spans two provinces, with scenery like a painting, resembling Penglai Fairy Island. The inhabitants are mostly Mosuo people. In Yunnan, the Mosuo are considered a branch of the Naxi, while in Sichuan they are classified as Mongolian. The Mosuo are not among China’s 56 official ethnic groups. Around Lugu Lake, you’ll find Mosuo, Yi, Pumi, and other minority peoples.
After bumpy four-hour journey from Lijiang via the Eighteen Bends of Jinsha River, you finally arrive at Lugu Lake. The lake has five complete islands, four peninsulas, and 14 bays. Mount Gemu towers by the shore at 3,754 meters, the highest peak among the surrounding mountains.
Two-thirds of Lugu Lake’s water area belongs to Sichuan. The lake is split, with the east under Yunnan jurisdiction and the west under Sichuan. The boundary runs through Yanyuan County in Sichuan and Ninglang County in Yunnan. On one side live the Naxi Mosuo, on the other the Sichuan Mongolian Mosuo. The Mosuo are a matriarchal society, often called the real-life Kingdom of Women. Admission: 70 yuan. Transport: self-drive, charter, or join a tour.
Upon arriving at Lugu Lake, I learned of the Mosuo’s mysterious walking marriage tradition. In ancient Mosuo society, there is no legal, stable marriage. Men and women maintain relationships and raise children through a “walking marriage” model: men do not marry, women do not wed. People wonder how the Mosuo propagate without marriage. This stems from their matriarchal roots, a female-dominated society. A famous spot on Lugu Lake is the Walking Marriage Bridge, where men and women once had dates. Couples could agree during the day to meet at the flower house at night. The flower house is a room in the woman’s family home prepared for adult daughters, used for rendezvous with her sweetheart. The man must climb through a window at midnight and leave before dawn. Although widely accepted, this custom resembles a secret affair. If feelings fade, the walking marriage can be ended, and a new relationship begun. Admission: included in the Lugu Lake main ticket. Transport: self-drive.
In search of Lugu Lake's source: it is said to be Luyuan Cliff. From the village dock, take a pig-trough boat to the sheer rocky cliffs. Along the way, you meet the clear lake water, sparkling in winter sunlight. Luyuan Cliff is the spring where groundwater emerges; the deepest point reaches over 90 meters. Standing among jagged rocks beneath the cliff, gazing at the lake, the distant village looks like a painted scroll. Colorful prayer flags flutter, small mani stone piles mark the religious and cultural imprints on this mysterious plateau lake – traces of human and nature intertwined over time. Among the Mosuo of Yunnan’s Lugu Lake, the pig-trough boat, a dugout canoe, was once essential for survival. Made from a single large log hollowed out, the canoe is long and narrow with T-shaped ends, resembling a pig’s feeding trough – hence the name. These boats have long connected the Mosuo to the lake for travel and fishing. One boat holds seven or eight people, but now they mainly serve tourists for lake cruises. Ride a local pig-trough boat to seek the lake’s source. Red-billed gulls wintering here accompany the journey, lured by bread and snacks thrown by passengers, staying close. They chase the boat, circle overhead, or swoop down to snatch food. The boat is seemingly surrounded by swimming gulls, which suddenly spread their wings, rise, and dive toward the water. For the gulls, Lugu Lake’s winter is still as warm as spring. Admission: included in Lugu Lake main ticket. Boat ticket: included in day-tour.
Even in the southwestern mountains, you can find a seascape of blue meeting the sky. Lover’s Beach lies on the western shore of Lugu Lake, at the foot of Mount Gemu and Houlong Mountain. Legend has it Gemu, the goddess, and Houlong were lovers who angered the gods and were turned into the two sacred mountains of Lugu Lake. After that, like the cowherd and weaver girl, they could meet only once a year on the 15th day of the seventh lunar month at Lover’s Beach. This myth has been passed down for centuries, and the beach between these two mountains became known as Lover’s Beach, symbolizing undying love. Another legend tells of lover’s trees growing in pairs here; not a single tree stands alone along this bay, giving rise to beautiful associations. Today, you can see pairs of protected lover’s trees leaning close, like aged lovers still deeply attached. Along the shore, these paired trees are poems of faithful love: “If I love you, I’ll stand with you as a tree. Our roots entwined underground, our leaves touching in the clouds.” That is perhaps the loveliest description of lover’s trees. Admission: included in Lugu Lake main ticket.
Lige Peninsula floats entirely on Lugu Lake, connected to land by a single straight path only two meters wide. Villagers travel back and forth along this path. This floating peninsula, called Lige Peninsula, is a tombolo; the small bay it forms is Lige Bay. The island is surrounded by water on the southeast and west sides, with the north linking to land. The whole peninsula resembles Penglai Fairy Island, cradled by Lugu Lake.
For Lijiang’s specialty foods, I recommend Zhongyi Market. It’s the largest local market right outside Dayan Ancient Town’s gate. The snack street at Zhongyi Market sells local treats: roasted potatoes, grilled chicken pea jelly, Lijiang baba, cold bean jelly, rice cakes… Fried chicken pea jelly is crispy outside and springy like jelly inside; refreshing, especially when mixed with local chili powder and seasonings. Don’t miss these authentic snacks, averaging only about 10 yuan per person. The market changes with the seasons, offering fresh seasonal fruits and specialties – typically three jin for 10 yuan. The dried goods section has abundant herbs and goods; the specialty area gathers all kinds of precious Yunnan herbs, pastries, dairy products, and more, like black maca, tianma, and panax notoginseng, all in ample supply.
My journeys in Lijiang seem never-ending, always leaving regrets: I haven’t visited Lugu Lake when the water blooms danced, nor shared a festive pig-killing feast in a Naxi village, nor watched the sunrise from Lion Hill. Perhaps the regret is only waiting for the next encounter. The Lijiang journey is forever on the road. Snow mountains, cherry blossoms, ancient towns, gorges, fairy islands… none can fully capture the essence of Lijiang...
