Third Road Trip from Guangzhou to Yunnan (with an Impromptu Detour into Tibet and Exit through Sichuan)

The three-week Yunnan road trips we took during the Spring Festivals of 2018 and 2019 were wonderful memories. After that, the pandemic and work kept us from any long-distance road trip for three years. We buckled down, did plenty of homework, tweaked the itinerary again and again, and many times we were so eager to set off.

Our son is 17 now and not so keen on traveling with us, his parents. Luckily, his best friend from primary school, Cai Cai, and her family of four were also planning a Yunnan road trip. When we got in touch, to our surprise their planned departure date matched ours, and they really liked our itinerary. The two kids were even happier. Later, to keep up with our driving schedule (arriving in Dali the next day), they even set off one day earlier.

Preparations: since we were already familiar with the route and it was summer, packing was easy. Yet we still brought an extra suitcase of clothes (mainly for looking good in different scenes; truth is once there we were too lazy to change, so I strongly advise packing even less). The day before departure, we changed the engine oil, packed a gas stove, instant noodles, and two jin each of Chinese white spirits and whisky.

Packing for spring 2018, 2019 and summer 2023 — you can see it got lighter and lighter.

August 4th (Friday). With work sorted, we hit the road at 1 PM and checked into Wyndham Baise Resort (recommended) just after 9 PM. Grabbed a late-night snack and went straight to bed.

5th. Departed at 5:30 AM (Baise has strict speed cameras, but our luck held; even going 10% over didn't get penalized). The two families met up at a service area in Kunming around noon, all delighted, and promptly snapped a group photo. We reached the south gate of Dali Ancient Town around 4 PM — less crowded there, easy parking. Straight away we went for a mixed mushroom and chicken hot pot to fill our stomachs, and cracked open some wine (with a female driver, we could enjoy a tipple at every meal!). Strolled briefly through the old town, then before dark checked into Dali Blue House Sea-view Inn by Erhai Lake (poor service, not recommended).

We, the couple, had a romantic moment by Erhai Lake.

6th. Rainy. We had rice noodles at the inn, then strolled along Erhai with umbrellas. The newly finished footpath added a lot of charm to Erhai. In Yunnan, it gets dark late, and with our relaxed itinerary the kids could sleep in almost every day, so we only set off for Shangri-La Shanmei Inn at Tiger Leaping Gorge at 11 AM. The trip truly began.

After leaving the highway, we crossed Songyuan Bridge and had lunch at Yaomei Fresh Fish Restaurant along the G214 (the fish was a bit pricey). At Tiger Leaping Gorge Bridge (only on Tencent Maps; Gaode didn't name it), we were told the scenic area was closed due to recent heavy rains and high water volume, and no one was allowed across. (We checked online and learned it had closed at 10:30 AM — no wonder there was no traffic.) We drove on, crossed Qiaotou Middle Bridge (per Tencent Maps), then pulled over and called the innkeeper, who said we could still get in. We passed three security checks, saying we were heading to Shanmei or letting them speak to the inn directly, and they let us through. They didn't even charge us the scenic area entrance fee (neither visit involved the scenic area, though in 2019 you normally had to pay just to pass through).

Ahead of the inn, there was a 2.4-kilometer stretch with a 350-meter elevation drop (different apps gave different figures), featuring a dozen or so steep S-bends, all concrete. Fortunately, the car performed brilliantly, handling with ease, no struggling at all, taking the bends smoothly — like a theme park ride (the co-driver kept an eye on oncoming traffic above). It was thrilling. The inn has its own parking lot, space for six or seven cars.

The 'amusement ride' before Shanmei Inn.

We settled in, and while the rain eased, we followed the plan: reversed the High Trail for about 1 km to the 'Ice Powder' spot, then headed back as a warm-up. After the rain, Jade Dragon and Haba mountains were wrapped in mist, with a different kind of beauty. The whole group's excitement kicked in and stayed high for the rest of the 10-plus-day journey.

Opposite, you could see Yachajiao Manor, Tea Horse Inn, then Shanmei Inn in order.

Rain, mud, high water — be careful.

Public displays of affection, buy one get one free.

The scent of durian wafted over.

We chose Shanmei for the hike, so we didn't expect luxury. Dinner and breakfast were at the inn, hot water supply generous. The first night, a power line fault cut electricity to the whole village; it was fixed by dark the next day, no big deal. Good thing we'd brought a gas stove and plenty of power banks.

7th. We started the High Trail hike at 11 AM. Weather cooperated — cloudy, around 20°C. Midway, a herd of cows blocked the path, and two bulls even started fighting over a cow. We'd never seen anything like that in any travel guide; no one knew what to do, so we just waited. Luckily, the herder was experienced. Seeing we hadn't appeared on the col ahead after so long, he came over to shoo them away.

This cup of tea — how can you resist?

Guanyin Waterfall (not sure of the name; any hikers know for sure?).

Around 1 PM we reached Halfway Guesthouse for lunch (reasonably priced, food so-so), posed at the 'Cool-You-Dead Balcony,' and 'patronized' the No.1 Toilet Under Heaven. Then we continued. Under the sun, the scenery was stunning, full of color. When we reached Guanyin Waterfall (I showed the photo to the innkeeper, she said it was called that), the trail was flooded by the rushing water, and the scree slope before the waterfall was dangerous (likely a small landslide), so we turned back. Back at Halfway, we had beers and coffee on the terrace bar. The shop there offers phone numbers for car hires, so we called two cars (150 yuan each) to take us back to Shanmei. The hike was actually under 10 km, mostly flat, not difficult — you could do it with just a bottle of water.

Dinner at the inn was excellent and not expensive. Everyone got along warmly; a big thank-you to the inn. They actually have a terrace with great views, it just hasn't been hyped online.

Shanmei's signature braised chicken — delicious!

8th. After breakfast, we headed to Teacher Zhang's Inn and hiked their gorge trail (15 yuan per person. There are three routes down to the river; the other two are the 'Sky Ladder Trail' and 'Thin Strip of Sky Trail'). We took photos on the giant rock in the river at the bottom. The closed scenic area had incredibly fierce water — we'd come at the perfect time, and our drone really proved its worth.

The giant rock on Teacher Zhang's trail at the riverbed; just ten-odd days later, this gravel path would be completely washed away.

At the bottom, a small suspension bridge links to the 'Sky Ladder Trail,' but crossing costs extra. We told them we'd just cross their bridge and come straight back, so they charged only 5 yuan per person; crossing the bridge to the giant rock was another 10 yuan. (We'd crossed once during the 2019 Spring Festival, with less water then — highly recommended; back then our son didn't dare cross, but this time was different.) On the way back, we climbed the 168-step Brave Cloud Ladder (10 yuan per person; the lady running it turned out to be yesterday's driver who took us from Halfway to Shanmei). The ladder was very steep, and on the last stretch our strength flagged; the youngsters, saving their energy earlier, had disappeared from sight. My wife and I cheered each other on, slowly climbing, and still made it. The whole gorge hike took about 5 hours (including lots of photo stops); horizontal distance wasn't much, but the elevation change was huge — it pushed us close to our physical limits.

The suspension bridge dividing the two routes.

The 'Sky Ladder Trail' suspension bridge at the gorge bottom (2019).

The same bridge in 2023.

The 'Sky Ladder' on that trail (2019).

The ladder on 'Teacher Zhang's trail'.

Map of the High Trail and gorge hiking routes (taken at Teacher Zhang's Inn).

Around 5 PM we got back to Teacher Zhang's Inn for 'lunch,' then set off for Haba Village. We made a detour to the lower Tiger Leaping Gorge, where you used to cross to Daju Township; now there's a new 'Jinsha River Bridge.' We drove across to the far side, started drone filming along the road, feeling like we were on the G318 (and later we actually did it!). Then we purposefully looped back through the Lower Tiger Leaping Gorge tunnel to the inn. The East Ring Road had been fully upgraded during the pandemic years, a smooth drive. Before dark we reached 'Shangri-La Haba Half-Mountain Inn' (recommended), our base for the fourth stop — camping at Haba.

From Teacher Zhang's Inn, skip the tunnel and keep right; in 6 km you reach Jinsha River Bridge, crossing to Daju Township.

A rainbow on the East Ring Road, en route to Haba.

This inn is run mainly by the lady boss, while Luosang (big brother) manages the Fanchen Dela Wild Luxury Camp. She coordinated with me in advance, nailing down numbers and dinner time, so as soon as we arrived the dishes came out — appealing to eye and palate. Seeing we brought our own booze, she also invited us to try a local liquor her best friend loves. The inn's courtyard is huge; at night we breathed in the amazing aroma of braised beef brisket (for the next morning's breakfast), listened to music, sipped tea, and watched the boss give a serious briefing to guests climbing Haba Snow Mountain the next day.

9th. In the morning, we finally met the very busy Brother Luosang. He told us about the camp; it sounded great, so we decided to check in at noon. The drive from the inn to the camp is 9.5 km, a narrow mountain road, the last long stretch on gravel — you need to go slowly, it took 45 minutes. The camp sits on a mountainside, alpine meadow terrain, stunningly beautiful. After settling in, a kid named Yiyi at the camp really hit it off with us and volunteered to take us foraging for porcini mushrooms. With this 'expert' guiding, we found ones as big as a fist. First time, and we all turned into gleeful 'little girls.' Brother Luosang told us it was the Torch Festival; the camp was slaughtering a sheep, and we had a superb mutton stew. In the evening they lit a bonfire and set off fireworks, getting everyone excited again. The two kids especially showed off their gadget skills. If we'd arrived earlier, there'd have been time for a horseback ride to the alpine pasture and lake.

The porcini mushrooms we picked.

A creative photo by the two kids — guess how it was taken?

Fist-sized porcini.

10th. It rained from midnight till morning, then the clouds parted and the whole camp turned into a fairyland — totally worth it. We even saw the summit of Haba Snow Mountain.

We set out at 10 AM on the East Ring Road. With clear skies, we added a stop at Baishuitai, then headed to Pudacuo National Park. Approaching Shangri-La, I had my son search online, and he recommended this place near the old town: 'Snowland Tibetan Hotpot.' We went for hot pot — highly recommend the yak meat hot pot and Tibetan fragrant pork.

Shudu Lake at Pudacuo.

After the meal, we checked into 'Shangri-La Xiangbai Tibetan Art Courtyard.' During our first road trip in 2018, we stayed in the old town; this time we purposely chose to stay in the Songzanlin Monastery area. With the inn, the monastery ticket was discounted, 62 yuan each (entry with that ticket), and you could come and go over multiple days. The inn is run by the owner couple, very honest people; their two daughters help out during holidays. If you want dinner there, remember to book. The inn faces Songzanlin Monastery across the way; parking's in the courtyard, rooms are spacious and nicely decorated. Recommended.

11th. We went to Snowland Tibetan again for lunch; the hot-and-sour pig trotter hot pot was also excellent. Then we revisited Dukezong. Five years ago, I'd bought a tea set I really loved at 'Wuchen' (Dust-Free), but soon after returning, 'someone' broke the teapot. This time, I came back deliberately to find them. Their shop had moved, but luckily we stumbled into the new one. My wife recognized the shop owner (though she and her husband had become much rounder). She'd become a mother, changed a lot, lost that old 'buy it if you want, or don't' haughtiness. I even called our son in; the two families meeting felt so nostalgic. We chatted for over an hour before choosing our purchases and paying. Apart from matching a new pot (of course paid by 'someone'), I also picked out one my elder sister would love, to give her as a birthday gift. After strolling the old town, we did a quick drive around Napa Lake, then ate and returned to the inn.

Seeking 'Wuchen' (the owner sisters now run two 'Wuchen' shops in the old town).

Our son in 2018 vs. 2023.

Top: the newly matched pot; bottom right: the original. It doesn't match perfectly, but the joy was in tracking down the shop.

Sending it back with Cai Cai for my sister — a 2,000 km 'express delivery,' just in time for her birthday.

With that five-year wish fulfilled, I treated Cai Cai to coffee at 'Xiaocai Coffee'.

12th. In the morning, my wife and I took a walk around Songzanlin Monastery. After lunch, we set off for 'Deqin Fragment My Hometown Meili Snow Mountain Mansion.' Rainy, lots of bends, and we passed two accidents — you really have to drive a bit slower. We passed the 'Omega' big bend of the Jinsha River and stopped for photos. Now it's free, but that's not necessarily good — the toilets were too disgusting to enter.

Viewing the 'Omega' bend of the Jinsha River in the rain.

We'd pre-arranged the menu with the inn, so not long after arriving late, dinner was served — food was okay. The mansion's decor is tasteful, facilities luxurious, price a bit high. On both sides, small high-rise hotels are being built; hopefully room rates will drop. Rain and fog, so no golden mountain view.

Due to an urgent work matter, Cai Cai's family had to cut their trip short by a day; the next day they'd turn back to Lugu Lake. So we said our goodbyes.

The two families waved farewell at the mansion's gate (I couldn't bear to look, you turned away from me...).

13th. According to the original plan, we'd visit the ancient salt wells then officially head back the way we came, staying one night at Feilaisi. At 10 AM, our family set off first. Before long the weather turned glorious. With my son's pumping music in the car, driving toward Ninong Gorge (instead of toward Feilaisi; we wanted to see the zip line and Yubeng's entrance), the vibe suddenly kicked in. I thought about it: it was only Sunday, we had a whole week left — why not go for the G318?! As soon as I said it, my wife and son agreed. We pulled over, checked the navigation — clear all the way. Just like that, we made a spur-of-the-moment decision (missing the sunrise golden mountain on August 14th). That feeling of an unexpected change of plans was so exciting.

After half an hour, we crossed Ninong Bridge and saw the abandoned Ninong suspension bridge and zip line. I'd long noticed this spot on the map; this time I came on purpose and wasn't disappointed — it was spectacular. Not far ahead, the turnoff for Yubeng.

At night while scrolling on my phone, I always check local videos on that short-video app for useful info. Last night I'd seen that a mudslide hit the G214 near Gushui, but they said it'd be cleared that night. Today around noon when we passed, there was single-lane traffic and we were held up less than half an hour — quite lucky. At 1:30 PM we entered Markam County, officially stepping into Tibet! Further on was the Changdu Public Security checkpoint; just scan your ID card and you're good.

By 2 PM we reached the famous 'Yanjing Authentic One-Bite Noodles' — 30 yuan per person, all you can eat. The record on the wall was 147 bowls. The staff sing and dance while constantly urging you 'one more, one more'; each time they add a bowl, you take a pebble from the basket on the table to keep count. The noodles are nothing special, but the experience is a blast — recommended.

Then we visited the salt well Catholic church and the millennium salt fields before heading to Markam. Got there at 6 PM, picked a hotel after arriving — 'Markam Baijing Hotel' on the main road. We checked the room first, 250 yuan a night, clean and tidy, parking in the courtyard downstairs. Fried a few dishes at a small eatery across the street, then back to the hotel to sleep.

14th. Departed at 6:30 AM. Passed a junction I'd stared at on the map many times; we stopped to look, thinking there'd always be a chance to turn left here (to enter Tibet).

This time, turning right first.

We visited Cuopugou Scenic Area — what a surprise, strongly recommended. Turns out you can actually drive in yourself, but you need to reserve a day in advance via their mini-program. We didn't know, so we booked tickets on Ctrip, taking the visitor center bus. Very few tourists. It's 13 km to the inner area, with road works, a 30-minute ride. The weather was perfect. Zhangde Grassland, set against the holy Mt. Zhajinjia behind, was brightly colored and magnificent. We instantly felt we'd picked the right place, and there was even a G318 milestone sign — great vibe. The bus only goes to Cuopu Lake; from there you can take an electric cart to the topmost Cuopu Temple, then walk down to see two smaller lakes and back to Cuopu Lake. Totally surpasses Pudacuo, rivals Jiuzhaigou.

At 4:02 PM we left for Litang. The scenery along the way was breathtakingly beautiful; passed the Twin Lakes. Checked into Litang Thousand-Household Tibetan Village Hotel, right by the main road, parking out front. Ordered takeout snail noodles for dinner. The City in the Sky — you've got to have a bit of altitude sickness to make it legit. Only I got a headache; the hotel had an oxygen machine, so I slept with it on, fine by next morning.

15th. Set off at 7 AM. At the '18 Bends of the Sky Road,' traffic was backed up half an hour because many cars had stopped on the roadside and some were going against traffic. The rest of the drive was smooth. Passed Kangding Airport just in time to see a plane landing. Zheduo Mountain was very crowded and foggy, so we didn't stop. Around 3 PM reached Kangding Love Song Square. No parking along the river road, but driving into the inner street got us a spot. Took a photo, had hot pot, then headed for Dujiangyan. Checked in at Bailun International Hotel at 8 PM (two-night stay, recommended); dinner at the mall downstairs.

16th. Finally, a proper leisurely breakfast. The hotel's food was fine; my wife and I lingered at the table for two hours. Then we hit the hotel pool. Maybe coming down from the plateau gave us extra stamina — we swam until we didn't feel tired at all. Only after 1 PM did we go out looking for food. We purposely went to Section 3 of Dujiangyan Avenue, where we'd seen lots of eateries the night before, and picked 'Fuyao' — the hot pot was unbeatable, superb. Afterwards, we strolled around Yangtianwo Square and the Dujiangyan scenic area.

17th. Today, I accompanied my wife and son to see pandas (I hadn't bothered for years), but now they're trendy again. Even booking the night before, only afternoon tickets remained — perfect, another two-hour breakfast for us. At 11 AM we set off for the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding, entered via the West Gate — fewer people, fewer cars. The place is huge; you must take the electric cart. After two and a half hours, we headed into Chengdu and checked into Shangri-La Hotel. After settling in, we realized the next day was our car's plate-number driving restriction, so the three of us used the excuse to stay an extra night.

18th. We went out to Taikoo Li at noon — didn't drive, cabs were cheap. Had Xiaolongkan hot pot, then shopped. At the 'fruit shop' we splurged; my son was thrilled. Back to the hotel for afternoon tea on the top floor (a perk of the Horizon Club room) — nice spread, abundant drinks, practically dinner. Then we walked to East Gate Pier for a night cruise on the Jin River. Service in Sichuan is exceptional, must give a thumbs-up.

19th. Officially on the road home. Departed at 10 AM, checked into Zunyi Guizhou Hotel at 5 PM. Buffet 128 yuan per person, very good.

20th. Set off at 8 AM; my wife and I took turns driving, and after 12.5 hours we arrived back in Guangzhou. Total distance: 5,200 km. A fulfilling, perfect journey.