Reunion in Lijiang

During the Spring Festival holiday, our whole family embarked on a spontaneous journey. My daughter-in-law's thoughtfully planned itinerary was perfect, offering freedom and comfort, and allowing us all to experience the breathtaking beauty of Lijiang and Dali in Yunnan during simple, joyful moments. On the afternoon of the sixth day of the lunar new year, we flew directly to Lijiang. Lijiang was as beautiful as ever—deep blue skies with clouds like cotton candy, soft and gentle. It was a return to Lijiang after a decade. Our first stop was Baisha Ancient Town, where we checked into the Lijiang Baisha Qingpu Cultural Retreat. The UNESCO World Heritage Site 'Old Town of Lijiang' consists of three ancient towns: Baisha, Shuhe, and Dayan (Lijiang Ancient Town). Baisha Ancient Town, about 12 kilometers north of Lijiang city, is an ancient town that was the earliest settlement of the Naxi people in the Lijiang basin and the birthplace of the Mu chieftains. It was once the political, economic, commercial, and cultural center of Lijiang. With the sky and snowy mountains as its backdrop, Baisha Ancient Town has no crowds, no modern hustle and bustle. The whole town feels like it’s in slow motion—extremely tranquil and peaceful. In the narrow, winding alleys, sunlight gently dapples; life here is simple and beautiful. Baisha isn't large; the whole town is shaped like the number 7, with just one main street. On the south side of Sifang Square stands a two-story archway with a plaque reading 'World Cultural Heritage: Baisha, Capital of the Ancient Naxi Kingdom.' Passing through the archway to the south, you enter the peaceful, quiet Naxi residential area, where the Naxi people have lived for over a thousand years—planting in spring, harvesting in autumn, storing in winter—leading a life detached from the world. At 8:00 the next morning, I captured the golden sunrise on the snowy mountain. Though the snow cover was thinner, it was still stunningly beautiful. Jade Dragon Snow Mountain covers a total area of 415 square kilometers and is a national scenic area, a 5A-level national tourist attraction, and a national geological park. I had assumed that at the tail end of the Spring Festival holiday, the crowds at Jade Dragon Snow Mountain would thin out. To my surprise, we were stuck in traffic for nearly an hour on the way there by chartered car, and once inside the scenic area, endless queues for buses took up more time and energy. Exhausted, we finally reached Spruce Meadow and Blue Moon Valley, but because so much time was lost in line, we missed the 'Impression Lijiang' show. We took the cable car to Spruce Meadow at an altitude of 3,240 meters. Since we had children with us, we couldn’t ascend the snow mountain itself, but on the large meadow at Spruce Meadow, we could see the snowy peak up close, along with the grassland, cattle, and sheep—it was absolutely gorgeous. Walking on the alpine meadow, every random snapshot turned into a masterpiece. On sunny days, the water in Blue Moon Valley is a brilliant blue, and the valley is shaped like a crescent moon. From a distance, it looks like a blue moon nestled at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, hence the name. As the river in Blue Moon Valley flows, it is blocked by the mountain, forming four larger bodies of water: 'Jade Liquid' Lake, 'Mirror Pool' Lake, 'Blue Moon' Lake, and 'Listening to the Waves' Lake. This section is stunning. The lake water is crystal clear, reflecting the snowy mountains… It felt like stepping into Jiuzhaigou. The tranquility and harmony here refreshed my spirit, and I quickly found inner peace and calm. That evening, we checked into the InterContinental Lijiang Ancient Town Resort. Standing in the hotel lobby’s tea room, we could gaze into the distance and see the magnificent Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Lijiang Ancient Town (Dayan Town) was first built during the Southern Song Dynasty. Together with Pingyao Ancient City, Fenghuang Ancient Town, and Langzhong Ancient City, it is known as one of China’s four great ancient towns. Lijiang embodies the essence of Naxi culture and preserves historical features formed since the Song and Yuan dynasties, earning it a UNESCO World Heritage listing. Strolling along the ancient town’s streets, a picture of simplicity, elegance, and serenity unfolded before my eyes. Rows of Naxi-style dwellings stood side by side, clear streams wound through the town and alleys, little bridges arched over the brooks like rainbows, and rows of weeping willows swayed in the gentle breeze. Countless lanes twist and turn, crisscrossing like a maze, adding to the fun. Traditional blue-gray tiles and white walls, along with antique alleyways, exude the laid-back, leisurely charm of the ancient town—a truly cozy lifestyle. Beautiful scenery abounds everywhere in the flower-filled old town of Lijiang: the Great Waterwheel, Sifang Square, the Sea of Flowers at Dashiqiao, Dayan Flower Lane, Cherry Blossom Restaurant, Wuyi Street, Wenchang Palace… All come together like a meticulously painted scroll, blending natural beauty with cultural essence. The waterwheel is the symbol of the old town. The Mu Mansion was the residence of the Mu chieftains throughout history. Its architecture combines Ming Dynasty Central Plains style with Bai and Naxi craftsmanship, exquisite and magnificent. Xu Xiake once praised it, saying, 'The splendor of these halls rivals that of an imperial palace.' Today, the Mu Mansion is an icon of the old town. Stepping through its imposing red gate, you see buildings arranged along the central axis: the Council Hall, Wanjuàn Lóu (Library), Protector Hall, Guangbi Lóu, Yuyin Lóu, Sanqing Hall—all superbly crafted. On either side of the axis are over 160 structures, including side halls, attics, covered bridges, family courtyards, official guesthouses, and long corridors, rising and falling elegantly, majestic in scale, recreating the grandeur of the Lijiang chieftain’s residence. After centuries of glory, the Mu Mansion was largely destroyed in the warfare at the end of the Qing Dynasty, and the remaining parts were severely damaged in the 1996 Lijiang earthquake. Most of what we see today was reconstructed in 1999. Although rebuilt, it remains a representative landmark of Lijiang Ancient Town. TV dramas like 'Mu Mansion Fengyun' and 'Qian Wang' were filmed here. Leaving the Mu Mansion, the first thing you see is the 'Tianyu Liufang' wooden archway. 'Tianyu Liufang' is a homophone for the Naxi phrase 'go read a book,' showing that the Mu chieftains placed great importance on culture and education. The bustling Bar Street is a famous Instagram-worthy spot in Lijiang. Randomly stepping into a guesthouse, you find antique wooden buildings, every corner of the courtyard adorned with flowers—the decor is clever and exquisite, giving you the feeling of being in a garden. Relaxing in an old-town café, sipping local coffee. Wilderness Kingdom, a fairy-tale hideaway at the foot of the snowy mountain—located next to the Snow Mountain Art Town in Shuhe Subdistrict, Gucheng District, Lijiang. This is a secret base for children, like a kingdom from a Hayao Miyazaki cartoon. There are treehouses, a playground, and a ruins restaurant—all must-visit spots for family trips. Dreamy life, love on the journey. With blue sky and white clouds, my son’s family picked out ethnic costumes and styled their attire, capturing this beautiful moment here. At 8 a.m., we arrived at Black Dragon Pool Park in the old town. Walking 100 meters from the entrance to the perfect photo spot at Suocui Bridge, we saw the golden sunrise on the snow mountain reflected in the water—a breathtaking and stunning scene. The morning mist in Lijiang is intoxicating, adding enchanting hues to the town. As the sun gradually rose, shops along the streets opened their doors, and the ancient town began a new day. That afternoon, we took a train leaving Lijiang, heading to our next destination, Dali. Watching the ever-changing landscape outside the window, I savored the four-day trip in Lijiang—the pure, azure sky, the carefree white clouds, a life away from the worldly bustle. Though it was a reunion, the memories remain vivid and unforgettable.