August 2020 Northern Shaanxi Trip
With the nationwide victory over the COVID-19 pandemic, in late August, my wife and I set off from Guangzhou for a self-guided tour of Inner Mongolia, Shaanxi, and Shanxi provinces. We first went to Ordos (Genghis Khan Mausoleum), then Shenmu, Yulin, Jingbian (Wave Valley), Yan'an, Ganquan (Yucha Grand Canyon), Yan'an, Yanchuan (Qiankun Bay), Yan'an, Suide, Mizhi, Jiaxian, then to Qikou in Shanxi, and finally flew back to Guangzhou via Taiyuan. This trip lasted nine days and eight nights, using various means of transportation, with plans adjusted at any time according to the actual situation. The entire journey was very enjoyable.
Day 1: Guangzhou–Ordos–Shenmu
We took China Southern Airlines flight CZ6593, Guangzhou–Zhengzhou (stopover)–Ordos. At the airport, we took a taxi to Genghis Khan Mausoleum, visited for over an hour, and found a shared car at the entrance to go directly to Shenmu County in Shaanxi. Accommodation: Shenmu Tianfeng International Hotel. Flying from Guangzhou with a stopover in Zhengzhou, we arrived at Ordos Airport in Inner Mongolia around 2 p.m. Due to epidemic prevention requirements, health codes were checked at the airport.
Ordos Airport is located between the urban area of Ejin Horo Banner and Genghis Khan Mausoleum. After getting off the plane, we used Didi to get a car that took us directly to Genghis Khan Mausoleum.
Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area
We originally planned to stay near the mausoleum scenic area after arriving and then visit. Ordos has vast grasslands and deserts, but we had already seen plenty of grasslands and deserts on previous trips and were not interested, so our only goal in Ordos was the Genghis Khan Mausoleum.
Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area
Upon arriving at the entrance of the mausoleum scenic area, we learned that Genghis Khan Mausoleum is divided into two parts: the scenic area and the mausoleum area. The original full ticket price was 180 yuan. This year, due to the epidemic, only the mausoleum area is open, with the ticket price halved to 90 yuan. Those over 60 pay half price of 45 yuan, and those over 65 are free. The entire mausoleum area can be visited in just over an hour. So we decided to change our plan: instead of staying at the scenic area, we stored our luggage at the entrance and visited the mausoleum area directly.
Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area
Genghis Khan Mausoleum was originally the "Eight White Palaces (Rooms)" – the supreme shrine worshipped by all Mongol people. After Genghis Khan's death in 1227, the white shrine for sacrificial rites was first established in Ordos and remained hidden for a long time. The white palace built for the eternal worship of Genghis Khan, with historical changes and the movements of the Mongol dynasty and the guarding and worshipping Ordos tribe, wandered north and south for hundreds of years, enduring historical transformations. After the founding of the People's Republic of China, in 1954, with the warm care of the Central People's Government, the Genghis Khan Mausoleum Park was newly built, and it was completed in 1956. Several expansions were carried out later, especially a comprehensive renovation starting in 2004, which gave the mausoleum the majestic appearance of a grassland imperial tomb.
Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area
The entrance archway of Genghis Khan Mausoleum is the marker for entering the mausoleum grounds. It resembles a white felt tent standing in the green grass, a monument commemorating the great achievements of the historical figure. The milky white color symbolizes purity and auspicious blessings, like a white hada welcoming guests from afar and wishing them good health and happiness. At the top of the archway-style gate hangs a stone plaque inscribed with "Genghis Khan Mausoleum" by former Vice President Ulanhu, looking particularly solemn. The archway and the mausoleum hall complement each other, leading visitors into the long river of history.
Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area
The bronze statue square of Genghis Khan symbolizes the vast blessings bestowed by heaven and earth. The tall bronze statue of Genghis Khan on horseback going on an expedition recreates the scene when Genghis Khan praised Ordos during his western campaign as "a place for梅花鹿 to rest, a home for hoopoes to raise their young, a land for the revival of a declining dynasty, and a realm for an old man to enjoy life." It also reflects the grandeur of the great man who rose on horseback and shook the mountains and rivers. The bronze statue is 6.6 meters high, and the square has a diameter of 66 meters, symbolizing Genghis Khan's lifespan. The surrounding pines and cypresses extend outward in an umbrella shape, symbolizing the eternal spread of Genghis Khan's spirit on earth.
Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area
The splendid mausoleum hall, like a soaring eagle, showcases the majestic momentum of a grassland imperial tomb. White walls, vermilion doors and windows, golden roof, and blue cloud patterns are uniquely Mongolian. The mausoleum hall is a sacred place for worshipping Genghis Khan, and its architecture retains the shape characteristics of Genghis Khan's eight white palaces, becoming a representative building of the Mongolian people. The Genghis Khan Mausoleum Hall consists of the main hall, rear hall, east and west halls, and east and west passageways. The building area is 2,000 square meters, with the main hall 24.18 meters high and the east and west halls 18 meters high. Inside the hall are enshrined the eight white palaces (rooms) of Genghis Khan, along with large murals. At the center of the eaves hangs a plaque inscribed with "Genghis Khan Mausoleum" by former Vice President Ulanhu.
Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area
The Genghis Khan Mausoleum History and Culture Exhibition Hall consists of six parts: "Historical Great Man Going to the World," "Warm Care," "Changes of Genghis Khan Mausoleum," "Construction of Genghis Khan Mausoleum Park," "Mysterious Sacrificial Rites of Genghis Khan," and "The Guardian Darhut." Through pictures and objects, the exhibition systematically displays the vicissitudes of Genghis Khan Mausoleum, the ancient and mysterious sacrificial rites, the profound historical and cultural connotations, and the development and changes of the mausoleum under the care of the Party and the state.
Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area
Inside the mausoleum hall are enshrined the eight white palaces (rooms) of Genghis Khan. In the past, there were no permanent buildings for Genghis Khan Mausoleum; horses pulled these eight Mongolian yurts (eight white palaces) wandering the grasslands.
Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area
At the southeast and southwest corners of the courtyard of Genghis Khan Mausoleum Hall, there are two stele pavilions, each with tall stone steles. The pavilions are octagonal, double-eaved, with glazed tile roofs, typical Chinese pavilion architecture. Inside stand tall stone steles on large stone tortoise pedestals. One stele is inscribed "Genghis Khan," and the other "Genghis Khan Mausoleum." The inscriptions in Mongolian and Chinese briefly introduce Genghis Khan's arduous military career and the centuries-long vicissitudes of the mausoleum.
Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area
The white marble Sulde altar carved with Mongolian patterns is the place where Genghis Khan's war god is worshipped. Composed of the main Sulde and four accompanying Suldes, the "Four-Splice Black Sulde" is Genghis Khan's invincible war god, a protective deity of peace and auspiciousness, symbolizing Genghis Khan's indomitable spirit and power to overcome all evil. The Sulde's tassels are made from the mane of ninety-nine stallions. On the altar is also placed the Alag Sulde (colorful banner) of the Great Mongol Empire. The altar is 15.4 meters high and 54 meters in diameter.
Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area
Oboo (Ovoo) is a conical solid tower made of stone piles, with a divine spear or tree branch inserted at the top, tied with small scripture flags or hada. Generally, Oboo is worshipped on the thirteenth day of the fifth lunar month. After the sacrificial ceremony, traditional Mongolian men's three skills competitions such as horse racing, wrestling, and archery are held. In the Ordos region, Oboo is usually divided into independent Oboo and thirteen Oboo. The Mongolian people have revered thirteen since ancient times, considering it an auspicious number. Oboo means "pile" in Mongolian. It is usually erected on mountain tops, high hills, and geomantic sites. Types of Oboo include Oboo for worshipping the eternal sky (sacrificial sky Oboo), Oboo symbolizing mountain and river spirits (spirit Oboo), Oboo for worshipping ancestors (clan tribe Oboo), Oboo commemorating heroes (memorial Oboo), Oboo for commemorating gatherings (Hurhu Oboo), religious temple Oboo, and Oboo marking roads and boundaries. Oboo is sacred in the hearts of Mongolians. When encountering an Oboo during a journey, one must dismount and offer hada, food, incense, etc., to show reverence. They also pay great attention to protecting the environment around the Oboo, not damaging any grass or tree, and avoiding digging or littering.
Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area
The Altan Gandel Oboo was established by ancient people to commemorate Genghis Khan dropping his horsewhip. When Genghis Khan led his army through Ordos, he saw that the place had abundant water and grass, a good geomantic area. Reluctant to leave, he accidentally dropped his horsewhip. People set up this Oboo to commemorate the event. After the establishment of Genghis Khan Mausoleum, the annual Chagan Suluke Grand Sacrifice on the 21st day of the third lunar month is held here.
Genghis Khan Mausoleum Tourist Area
The mausoleum area took only about an hour to visit, and it was only four in the afternoon. We called a taxi at the entrance and asked to be taken to downtown Ordos to stay for the night. On the way, the driver told us that it takes only two hours to drive from Ordos to Shenmu in Shaanxi, and he could immediately help us find a shared ride. With his help, we shared a car with two others and headed directly to Shenmu.
After more than two hours on the road, we arrived in Shenmu in northern Shaanxi at around eight in the evening and checked into this four-star hotel, the best in Shenmu County.
This hotel has good soft and hardware, and the breakfast is also good.
Day 2: Shenmu–Yulin
It rained today. We took a taxi to Erlang Mountain Scenic Area, but at the entrance we saw that the scenic area was under renovation and closed to visitors. It was still raining. We came to Shenmu specifically for Erlang Mountain, so it was disappointing. We simply took a bus to Yulin. Accommodation: Yulin Rongda International Hotel.
Shenmu is a county-level city under the administration of Yulin City, Shaanxi Province. Shenmu has a long history and ancient culture. Located in northern Shaanxi, at the junction of Shaanxi, Shanxi, and Inner Mongolia, the Yellow River flows southward, and the Great Wall stretches westward. It is the largest county-level city in Shaanxi Province. The city has considerable light and heat resources. Shenmu is a National Health City, a National Garden City, and also a Shaanxi Provincial Civilized City, a Shaanxi Education Strong County, a Shaanxi Environmental Protection Model City, and a Shaanxi Historical and Cultural City.
After breakfast at the hotel, we took a taxi to Erlang Mountain Scenic Area. At the entrance, we saw the scenic area was under renovation and closed. It was still raining. We came to Shenmu specifically for Erlang Mountain, so it was disappointing.
Erlang Mountain is famous within and outside the province for its steepness, majesty, and profound historical and cultural accumulation. It has a strong religious atmosphere and has long been a tourist hotspot for neighboring provinces such as Shanxi, Shaanxi, and Inner Mongolia, receiving over 300,000 visitors annually. During the traditional temple fairs on the eighth day of the first lunar month, the eighth day of the fourth lunar month, and the twenty-second day of the sixth lunar month, merchants gather and crowds surge, creating a spectacular scene. Unfortunately, this time we missed out.
Erlang Mountain is located on the edge of Shenmu County, with an altitude of 1028 meters. It is commonly known as "West Mountain." Literati and scholars compare its shape to a camel's hump, so it is also called "Camel Hump Mountain." During his tour in the thirteenth year of the Zhengde era (1518), Emperor Ming Wuzong Zhu Houzhao noted that its shape resembled a brush rest and named it "Brush Rest Mountain." The Erlang Mountain temple group was built before the Ming Dynasty and later renovated and expanded over successive dynasties. On the winding, undulating ridge stretching over 1,000 meters from north to south, various buildings combining Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism were built in an orderly manner, following the terrain. There are over thirty buildings. The murals, sculptures, stone carvings, and inscriptions left in the temples are rich and colorful, with high artistic and historical value. It is now a provincial key cultural relic protection unit and a national AAA-level scenic spot.
Shenmu is a historical and cultural city with many famous sites, such as Tiantai Mountain, Gaojiabu Ancient City, and the Yang Family City of Yang Jiajiang.
Since the weather was bad and rainy, we had no heart to stay in Shenmu. We returned to the hotel, packed our luggage, and went to Shenmu Bus Station to buy tickets for the bus to Yulin City. The buses from Shenmu to Yulin run frequently; they depart when full.
We arrived in Yulin at noon and checked into Rongda International Hotel.
We had lunch at this restaurant, tasting Yulin's local flavors.
Yulin's specialty dish: Fried Soy Milk.
Assorted meatballs stew. Yulin dishes are quite generous in portion.
For dinner, we had lamb offal noodles. This is a small bowl, but the portion is already large.
Pure lamb offal soup, 30 yuan per bowl, with over half a jin of lamb offal.
By evening, the weather cleared up in Yulin. Yulin is located in the northernmost part of Shaanxi Province, at the junction of the Loess Plateau and the Mu Us Sandy Land, serving as a transition zone between the Loess Plateau and the Inner Mongolia Plateau. It borders the Yellow River and faces Shanxi Province to the east, connects with Ningxia and Gansu to the west, adjoins Yan'an to the south, and connects with Ordos to the north. It is the junction of five provinces: Shaanxi, Gansu, Ningxia, Inner Mongolia, and Shanxi. It has been a strategic military location since ancient times. Yulin is a National Historical and Cultural City, a National Health City, a China Loving Heart City, a National New Energy Demonstration City, a National Ecological Protection and Construction Demonstration City. It has the world cultural heritage—the First Platform of the Great Wall, Zhenbeitai; one of China's most promising top ten ancient cities—Yulin Ancient City; Hongshixia; Tongwan City Ruins; Hongjiannao Lake; Yulin Desert National Forest Park; Shimao Site, and other attractions.
Day 3: Yulin–Jingbian
Today the weather in Yulin was nice. We took a taxi to visit Zhenbeitai, Hongshixia, and Yulin Old Street. In the afternoon, we took a bus to Jingbian. Originally, we planned to stay in a local home near Wave Valley in Jingbian to watch the sunset, but because it rained heavily yesterday, the boss said the road in the scenic area was bad and suggested we go into the scenic area tomorrow. We thought about it and decided to stay near Jingbian Bus Station and rent a car to enter Wave Valley tomorrow. Accommodation: Jingbian Yejin Golden Hotel.
After breakfast at the hotel, we took a taxi to Zhenbeitai. Zhenbeitai is located on the top of Red Mountain north of Yulin City. It is a World Cultural Heritage site and a national key cultural relic protection unit.
Zhenbeitai is one of the grandest and most majestic structures along the Ming Great Wall ruins. It is one of the three great wonders of the Great Wall (Shanhai Pass in the east, Zhenbeitai in the middle, and Jiayuguan in the west), and is known as the First Platform of the Great Wall.
Zhenbeitai is located on the top of Red Mountain, 4 kilometers north of Yulin City, Shaanxi Province. It commands a strategic position, controlling the north-south throat like a giant lock, and is one of the largest existing fortresses along the ancient Great Wall.
The gate tower of Zhenbeitai is named Kuangong City (Tribute City), which was the place where Mongol and Han officials received each other and held tribute ceremonies.
Zhenbeitai
Zhenbeitai is square, with 4 levels, over 30 meters high. The northern base is 82 meters long, the southern base is 76 meters long, and the east and west are each 64 meters, covering an area of 5,056 square meters. Zhenbeitai is known as the First Platform of the Great Wall, a crystallization of the intelligence and perseverance of the ancient Han working people.
The first level of Zhenbeitai is 10.20 meters high, the second level is 8 meters high, the third level is 4.10 meters high, and the fourth level is 4.40 meters high. On the northern platform, the inscription "Xiang Ming" (Facing Brightness) was written by the Ming Governor Tu Zong. Each level has stone steps to climb. The platform relies on the mountain and is strategically located. Standing on top of Zhenbeitai, you can overlook the golden sand, blue sky, clear reservoirs, winding Great Wall, green forest belts, and the thriving suburban construction, forming a colorful picture scroll.
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Back garden below Zhenbeitai
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Hongshixia, also known as Xiongshixia (Heroic Stone Gorge), is located 3 kilometers north of Yulin City, less than 2 kilometers from Zhenbeitai. It is a famous tourist attraction in Yulin.
Hongshixia Gorge is about 350 meters long. The east cliff is about 11.5 meters high, and the west cliff is 13 meters high. They face each other, steep and majestic. The Yuxi River flows swiftly through the gorge, reaching the west of the city. The willows on both banks are green and the scenery is beautiful. Hongshixia is famous on the frontier. In the old days, civil officials, military officers, and Confucian scholars visiting Yulin would hold banquets here and compose poems, leaving behind more than 160 valuable calligraphy artworks. Therefore, Hongshixia in Yulin can be called a rare treasure trove of calligraphy art. On its east and west stone walls, there are over 160 connected cliffside inscriptions, cave chambers, temple walls, and embedded stone steles with inscriptions and characters ranging from about 6 meters to small inch-sized ones. The scripts include seal script, clerical script, regular script, running script, and cursive script, all powerful and elegant, each with its own splendor. There are also rare Mongolian inscriptions, adding a unique charm, making it a spectacular natural forest of steles.
For thousands of years, heroes and literati of various dynasties have left many exquisite cliffside carvings on both sides of the gorge.
Hongshixia Hongshixia
When the setting sun shines westward, the red stones reflect the sun and look especially beautiful. "Red Mountain Evening Glow" is known as one of the Eight Scenic Spots of Yulin.
Hongshixia Hongshixia
The name Hongshixia comes from the red stones of the mountain. In the eighth year of Chenghua of Ming (1472), Yu Ziyu served as Vice Censor-in-Chief and Governor of Yansui, stationed in Yulin. He cut stones to make a canal, diverting water from west to east to merge with the Wuding River, naming it "Yuxi River." When the canal was completed, the setting sun shone eastward, reflecting on the red stones, making them exceptionally dazzling, hence the name "Red Stone Gorge."
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Yulin is a national historical and cultural city. This is the Drum Tower on Yulin Old Street, also known as South Street. The base of the Drum Tower is a brick-laid platform with arches in four directions. Above are two levels, divided into south and north courtyards, each with side halls. The south courtyard originally had a wooden archway. On the second level, a large iron point was once hung for night watch. The tower has a unique shape with exquisite arch designs. The Drum Tower was demolished during a certain period and rebuilt in 2006.
The architectural style of Yulin Old Street is quite similar to that of old Beijing. Most of the street consists of Ming and Qing dynasty buildings. From the south gate to the Drum Tower, there are six Ming and Qing style towers: Drum Tower, Kaige Tower, Bell Tower, Xingming Tower, Wanfo Tower, and Wenchang Pavilion. Among them, Xingming Tower, Bell Tower, and Wanfo Tower are historical relics, while the other three were rebuilt on their original sites, collectively known as "Six Towers Riding the Street." Each tower has its own characteristics.
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Kaige Tower – originally built in the fifth year of Hongzhi of Ming (1492). Originally named Huaimen Gate, it has bell and drum turrets at four corners, arranged in a staggered manner, echoing each other. It is said that in ancient times, after frontier wars, victory celebrations, prisoner presentations, and meritorious ceremonies were often held here, hence the name "Kaige" (Triumph).
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Bell Tower – the original Bell Tower was destroyed by fire. In 1921, the heads of the military and government of 23 counties in northern Shaanxi and local gentry raised funds to build a three-story brick tower on the original site in Western style, a blend of Chinese and Western architecture. Initially named Changchun Tower, intended to establish a living shrine for the warlord Jing Yuexiu, it was later stopped due to public opinion and renamed Bell Tower. The base has brick arches in four directions, with a total height of 24 meters, length of 20 meters, and width of 15 meters. On the east side is a gate with a bridge on top, accessible by steps. The four corners protrude, with water-ground brick columns, and arched doors and windows arranged around. There are balconies outside the north and south tower passages, and awnings on the east and west. At the top center is a wooden double-eaved octagonal pavilion, with a large bell hung inside, serving as the city's time signal during the Republic period. On the second floor, stone horizontal plaques are carved with inscriptions: "Northern Fronting Yan Pass" (北临雁塞), "Southern Controlling Wuyan" (南控乌延), "Fragrant Water Flow" (芹水流芳), "Camel Peak Embracing Green" (驼峰拥翠). On the third floor, the plaques read "Feiying Tengmao" (蜚英腾茂) and "Wanliu Yangjing" (万流仰镜), all written by famous calligrapher Li Tang and others. Ascending the tower, the urban scenery is completely visible.
Lunch was a bowl of lamb shredded noodle and a bowl of beef he le (a type of noodles).
Xingming Tower – built around the Zhengde era of Ming (approximately 1517), a historical ancient building. The tower is entirely wooden, exquisitely designed, uniquely shaped, and renowned throughout the three Qin regions. According to "Yulin County Annals": "Among the famous towers in Yulin, only Xingming Tower stands out." The third floor houses a bronze statue of the True Warrior Patriarch (Zhenwu) cast in the 34th year of Wanli of Ming, with a plaque inscribed "Wushang Gaozhen" (Supreme High Truth) written by Ye Lan. In 1956, 1983, and 1986, the government allocated funds three times to repair the tower, painting the pillars and carving beams, making it even more splendid.
Yulin is known as "North Platform, South Pagoda, Middle Ancient City, Six Towers Riding the Street Famous Under Heaven." The old street preserves and inherits the antique architectural style of Ming and Qing. Shops on both sides of the street hang red lanterns high, various shop flags flutter in the wind, and business is good. Every few hundred meters, an archway stands, complementing the towers and adding charm. For this reason, Emperor Ming Wuzong once praised Yulin as "Little Beijing."
Wanfo Tower – built in the 27th year of Kangxi of Qing (1688). Wanfo Tower has three floors. The second floor originally housed over a thousand Buddha statues, hence the name "Ten Thousand Buddhas." Ascending this tower, you can not only visit the rich collection of artifacts in the city but also enjoy the north-south cityscape of the ancient city.
Each tower and archway on Yulin Old Street has its own story, history, and legend.
Wenchang Pavilion – also known as Sifangtai, built in the 19th year of Qianlong of Qing (1754). Built on a stone platform, the cross is connected. The entire tower has 4 groups of 28 pillars supporting the structure. The tower has three floors, with a cross-resting hill roof on top. Under the eaves of the three floors hang plaques, respectively inscribed "Five Stars Meeting City Wall," "Under Heaven's Master," and "Wenchang Pavilion," written by three generations of the famous local calligrapher Ye Lan's family.
The city walls and south gate of Yulin City are well preserved.
Yulin Zhenyuan Gate
Yulin City has discovered 8 categories and 48 types of mineral resources, especially energy minerals such as coal, oil, natural gas, and rock salt, which are concentrated in one area, making it the richest region in Shanxi Province. Each square kilometer of land in Yulin contains underground wealth worth 1 billion yuan, with a potential value of mineral resources exceeding 46 trillion yuan, accounting for one-third of the country. Each square meter of land contains an average of 6 tons of coal, 140 cubic meters of natural gas, 40 tons of salt, and 115 kilograms of oil.
Yulin Lingxiao Pagoda
In the afternoon, we took a bus from Yulin Bus Station, about two hours, to Jingbian County Bus Station.
Jingbian County is located in the northwest part of Shaanxi Province, southwest of Yulin City, in the upper reaches of the Wuding River, spanning north and south of the Great Wall. The county is rich in mineral resources, mainly natural gas, oil, coal, and kaolin. The controlled reserves of natural gas are 320 billion cubic meters, making it a world-class gas field. The southern mountainous area contains abundant oil resources, with reserves exceeding 100 million tons, and oil layers between 700 and 1800 meters below the surface. Natural gas and oil have entered the stage of development and utilization. In addition, the county's water and land resources are also very rich.
Hotel we stayed at in Jingbian
Day 4: Jingbian–Wave Valley–Jingbian–Yan'an
At 7:30 a.m., we rented a car to Jingbian Wave Valley, returned to Jingbian in the afternoon, and took a bus to Yan'an. Accommodation: Yan'an Xinyue Hotel.
We rented a car from Jingbian, agreeing on 150 yuan to take us to Wave Valley and back. There were many cars soliciting passengers to Wave Valley at Jingbian Bus Station.
Wave Valley Wave Valley
Along the way, we saw the loess slopes of northern Shaanxi. It seems that the policy of returning farmland to forest has been effective over the years, and the mountains have become green.
After about an hour's drive from Jingbian, we arrived at Wave Valley Scenic Area. The Wave Valley scenic area is very large, divided into five areas from 1 to 5. The driver said that the third scenic area is the largest and most beautiful, also known as Water Danxia. The scenic area is still in its early stages and currently free of charge. Transportation is inconvenient; you can only go by chartered car or self-drive.
The rocks in Jingbian Wave Valley are called red sandstone, academically known as Pisha Sandstone, formed between the Permian of the Paleozoic and the Triassic, Jurassic, and Cretaceous of the Mesozoic. Arriving at Wave Valley, you see red stones like mudslides, presenting a flowing shape, with circles, clumps, and bends surging into the gullies. Walking down along the red stones on the edge of the gully, you see large, flat stone walls in broad areas, red from top to bottom, with basically uniform color. In narrow areas, the red stones show a flowing shape, like red mud gathering and flowing toward the bottom of the gully. Because this stone is similar to sandstone and weathers severely, the main scenic area is now fenced with iron chains to prevent tourists from entering and trampling.
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The layered stones of Wave Valley look like a large batch of red cloth spread on the ground after being dyed and dried, layer upon layer, roll upon roll, plate upon plate. Under the sunset, they are exceptionally bright red; also like a stream of red water emerging from the loess, slowly flowing to low-lying areas.
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It is a miracle that such a stone landscape exists in Jingbian Wave Valley, a place covered by loess in northern Shaanxi. The name "Jingbian Wave Valley" was given by tourists who came here. According to relevant records, the formation of this strange rock is described as follows: Wave Valley displays a wonderful world carved by millions of years of wind, water, and time on sandstone. The complex layers of Wave Valley rock are composed of huge sand dunes that began to deposit since the Jurassic period 150 million years ago. The sand dunes were continuously covered by layers of red sand soaked by groundwater. Over time, minerals in the water solidified the sand into sandstone, forming a layered structure.
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The fifth scenic area of Wave Valley is about four to five kilometers from the third scenic area. The scenery here is also spectacular.
Wave Valley Wave Valley
There are no trees in Wave Valley, so it is very sunny. Visiting the third and fifth scenic areas is generally sufficient. Due to rain in previous days, other scenic areas were also closed.
Wave Valley Wave Valley Wave Valley Wave Valley
On the way from Jingbian to Wave Valley, we visited the Ming Great Wall ruins.
Heavy ears of millet (xiaomi) really look like a wolf's tail.
Ming Great Wall ruins.
Along the way, we saw the new countryside of northern Shaanxi, also known as relocation villages. They are beautifully built.
Jingbian county town landscape.
At noon, we returned to Jingbian county town for lunch. Then we went to the bus station to buy tickets to Yan'an. There are many buses from Jingbian to Yan'an, very convenient. The journey takes two and a half hours to Yan'an.
This is Yan'an East Bus Station, where we got off. Here we learned that there is a daily tourist through bus from here to Yucha Grand Canyon in Ganquan County, round trip 90 yuan per person, departing at 8 a.m., can pick up from hotel, and returning to Yan'an around 4 p.m. So we bought tickets for the next day.
We stayed at this hotel opposite the bus station, which was convenient.
Day 5: Yan'an–Yucha Grand Canyon–Yan'an
At 8:00 a.m., the car arrived at the hotel downstairs on time. It picked up three more tourists from Guangzhou in the city and headed to Yucha Grand Canyon in Ganquan County. Upon arrival, we had to take the scenic area's eco-car to enter the canyon for sightseeing. We finished visiting at 1:30 p.m., returned to Yan'an by car, and in the evening visited Qingliang Mountain. Dinner was at the liveliest Erdao Street night market in Yan'an. Accommodation: Yan'an Yilai Hotel.
At 8 a.m., this small minibus arrived at the hotel to pick us up. Only five tourists took this car to Yucha Grand Canyon that day.
The loess slopes of northern Shaanxi are now lush green, the result of years of the policy of returning farmland to forest.
Ganquan Yucha Grand Canyon is located in Yucha Village, Ganquan County, Yan'an City, Shaanxi Province. The grand canyon was naturally formed, known as the world's living Danxia and China's Dream Valley. This grand canyon has only been discovered and become popular in recent years. Currently, it has become a formal scenic area. There is no entrance fee, but you have to buy a scenic eco-shuttle bus ticket for 70 yuan per person. The scenic area is very large; this bus is necessary and allows on-and-off.
Yucha Grand Canyon covers a large area, with seven canyons in total: Huashugou, Mudangou, Yixiantian, Shehegou, Fenghuanggou, Huabaogou, and Longbagou. The most beautiful is Huashugou. On the day we visited, only Huashugou and Mudangou were open to tourists. Mudangou is the farthest, about half an hour by bus from the scenic area entrance.
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Ganquan Grand Canyon, located in Yucha Village, Ganquan County, Yan'an, Shaanxi, is called Yucha Grand Canyon by local villagers. It is a mysterious geological wonder hidden in the loess land. For many years, Yucha Grand Canyon was unknown, remaining in a primitive state and undeveloped. It was only discovered about ten years ago, and its value was recognized. The rock ripples of this canyon are very similar to Antelope Canyon in the United States, attracting attention. Now it has become a holy place for photography enthusiasts from all over the country.
This is the Mudangou landscape of Yucha Grand Canyon. About ten million years ago, a strong earthquake occurred here, causing many cracks of varying widths in the Loess Plateau mountains. After millions of years of rain erosion, the surface gradually formed a peculiar canyon geological landform, presenting various beautiful wavy curves under sunlight.
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It takes about 20 minutes to drive from Mudangou to Huashugou. Huashugou is the most beautiful canyon in Yucha Grand Canyon.
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Huashugou is several hundred meters long, and the narrowest part only allows one person to pass. The ripples on the rock walls on both sides are bizarre and varied, reflecting a colorful brilliance under sunlight. One cannot help but admire the uncanny workmanship of nature. This natural landscape is comparable to and even surpasses the famous Antelope Canyon in the western United States.
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It is best to wear rain boots when visiting Yucha Grand Canyon, as there is much rainwater in the canyon, and some sections are very muddy. Buying a pair of rubber shoe covers is very practical.
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Visiting Huashugou and Mudangou in Yucha Grand Canyon took about two hours, which was basically enough. We are not photography enthusiasts; using our phones to take pictures and enjoying the view was sufficient. The other canyons are more or less similar. The magical and beautiful natural landscape of Yucha Grand Canyon left a deep impression and is well worth a visit.
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The management of Yucha Grand Canyon Scenic Area is relatively standardized. The roads within the scenic area are in good condition, and the facilities are relatively complete. In terms of both the scale of the scenic area and the natural scenery of the canyon, my personal travel experience is significantly better than Antelope Canyon in the United States.
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Today, only the five of us were on this car for the round trip, which was like a chartered car. On the way, we arranged for the same car to take us to Yanchuan the next morning.
We returned to the hotel in Yan'an a little after 2 p.m. We had visited Yan'an six years ago, but at that time Yucha Grand Canyon was not famous and we didn't know about it. We had already been to Zaoyuan, Yangjialing, and other red tourism sites in Yan'an, so we rested in the hotel until nearly 5 p.m. before going out to places we hadn't been before.
Qingliang Mountain in Yan'an has a main peak over 100 meters high, covering about 4 square kilometers. It has been developed as Qingliangshan Park. The park is lush with trees and steep terrain. Qingliang Mountain has 18 caves, 24 scenic spots, and over 40 cliffside inscriptions, poems, and inscriptions. At the top is a Taihe Hall. At the foot of the mountain, a straight ladder-style path leads directly to the top. Our legs were not good and we didn't have the stamina, so we could only look from below. Qingliang Mountain, together with Pagoda Mountain and Phoenix Mountain, forms the three mountain wonders of Yan'an.
Directly opposite Qingliang Mountain is Pagoda Mountain.
On the east side of Qingliang Mountain are the Yan'an period New China Broadcasting Station, Xinhua News Agency, and Liberation Daily. The Ten Thousand Buddha Cave group is the site of the Central Printing Factory, banknote factory, clinic, and Xinhua Bookstore. From January 1937 to March 27, 1947, the printing workshop of the Central Printing Factory was located on Qingliang Mountain, known as the News Mountain of Red Yan'an, making indelible contributions to the Chinese Revolution. On August 6, 1956, it was announced as the first batch of provincial key cultural relic protection units; on May 25, 2006, it was announced as a national key cultural relic protection unit; in 2011, it was rated as a 3A tourist attraction and a red education base. Now, the Yan'an News Museum is built at the foot of the mountain.
The main gate of Qingliangshan Park is on the west side. The park gate is a three-arched archway, with the characters "Qingliang Shan" written by Gong Xian of Saoye Tower. The park is free for people over 65.
The Ten Thousand Buddha Temple on Qingliang Mountain. From January 1937 to March 27, 1947, the printing workshop of the Central Printing Factory was located here; known as the News Mountain of Red Yan'an, it made indelible contributions to the Chinese Revolution.
The Ten Thousand Buddha Cave on Qingliang Mountain was carved before the Sui Dynasty. Statues were made or renovated in the Tang, Song, Jin, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties. It is one of the four major grottoes in northern Shaanxi. The Ten Thousand Buddha Cave mainly has four large caves, grand in scale, carved into the mountain. Inside the caves, there are thousands of stone Buddhas of various forms carved on stone pillars and surrounding walls. The stone carving art is exquisite and ingenious, a precious historical and cultural heritage.
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The Ten Thousand Buddha Cave mainly has four large caves, grand in scale, carved into the mountain. Thousands of stone Buddhas of various forms are carved on the stone pillars and walls. The stone carving art is exquisite and ingenious, a precious historical and cultural heritage, appreciated and protected by celebrities and scholars of all dynasties. The great writer and statesman Fan Zhongyan wrote "Qingliang Manxing" (four poems), praising: "Carving the mountain into a stone temple, carving ten thousand Buddhas. Such a rarity in the world, how could divine skill not exist."
The Qingliang Stele Forest is located halfway up the mountain. The stele forest displays many precious calligraphy inscriptions by leaders of the Chinese Communist Party, its civil and military officials, and famous non-party democrats from the Yan'an period.
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The hanging, tall, and exquisite Yinyue Pavilion. It stands like a strong eagle overlooking. Visitors ascend the pavilion and lean over the railing to look down, seeing a crescent moon emerge from the bottom of a well, hence the name Moon Well. On a starry and moonlit night, the moon in the well mirrors the moon in the sky, making people marvel.
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Poetry Bay located above the south side of the Ten Thousand Buddha Cave. There are over 50 cliffside inscriptions by famous scholars of various dynasties, in authentic, cursive, seal, clerical, and regular scripts, scattered all around.
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Fangong Shrine (Fan Zhongyan Memorial) is on the south side of Yinyue Pavilion. Fan Zhongyan, a famous minister of the Northern Song, was demoted and sent to Yanzhou (Yan'an) to resist the Western Xia. On the left and right of the Fangong Shrine stand two Wangyan Pavilions. Inside the shrine is a statue of Fan Zhongyan in military attire when he defended Yanzhou against the Western Xia. On the walls are inscribed his famous poems and phrases. Above the door of the shrine is a plaque with the six characters "Song Dynasty Number One Figure." The couplet reads: "Be the first to worry about the world's troubles, and the last to enjoy its pleasures."
Only from Qingliang Mountain can you capture the full view of the distant Pagoda Mountain. The mountain is high and steep, with intricately carved temples, resplendent and colorful. Qingliang Mountain has always been the number one scenic spot in Yan'an, with many poems and verses by famous figures throughout the ages praising its beauty.
Site of the Central Printing Factory.
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The symbol of the revolutionary holy land: Pagoda Mountain and Yan River.
The Erdao Street night market in Yan'an is very large. After being reported by CCTV and many local TV stations, it has become a nationally known internet-famous spot and a card of Yan'an. Every evening, tourists from all over and locals flock to Erdao Street to find delicious food. After visiting Qingliang Mountain, we came here to find good food.
The Erdao Street night market in Yan'an is distributed in a cross shape, mainly featuring northern Shaanxi snacks, but also many famous snacks from all over the country. There are hundreds of stalls, and by night, the place is bustling with people.
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Every night at 8:30, a large light show "Ode to Yan'an" is performed on Pagoda Mountain.
Day 6: Yan'an–Qiankun Bay–Suide
Today, a group of ten people rented a car to visit Yanchuan Qiankun Bay and Ganquan Yucha Grand Canyon. In the evening, we took a train to Suide. Accommodation: Suide Huana Boutique Hotel.
In the morning, the car we arranged yesterday came to pick up the tourists. Today, a total of ten tourists went to Yanchuan County's Qiankun Bay. On the way back, we also included a visit to Liangjiahe.
Yellow River Meander National Geopark
Yanchuan Yellow River Meander National Geopark is located along the Yellow River in the southern section of the canyon on the border of Shaanxi and Shanxi. The park starts from Yanshuiguan Town in Yanchuan County in the north and ends at Qingshui Bay in the south, with a total length of over 50 kilometers, a width of 1-5 kilometers, and a total area of 170 square kilometers. The main geological relic area is 56.2 square kilometers. The park is divided into four geological relic landscape areas: Yanshuiguan River Valley Terrace Landform Tourism Area, Suya Bay Plateau Eco-tourism Area, Qiankun Bay Meander Landform Tourism Area, and Qingshui Bay Meander Landform Tourism Area; and three historical and humanistic landscape areas: Xiaocheng Village Folk Culture Village, Nianpan Original Ecological Protection Area, and Guojiayao Folk Cultural Tourism Area. Since the scenic area is very large, visitors must transfer to the scenic area's shuttle bus upon arrival.
Yellow River Meander National Geopark
It takes about half an hour of winding mountain road from the scenic area entrance to reach Qiankun Bay Scenic Area.
Yellow River Meander National Geopark
The Yellow River flows through Yanchuan County for 68 kilometers, naturally forming five large S-shaped bends. The great Qiankun bend, ancient name Hehuai Bay, gets its name from the images of heaven and earth, sun and moon, yin and yang, hardness and softness, and qiankun. The Yellow River makes a sharp turn here, forming a 320-degree large bend, known as the First Bend of the Yellow River.
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Qiankun Pavilion on Qiankun Bay
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Qingshui Bay is the second large bay of the Yellow River within Yanchuan. Its bend is 305 degrees.
