Scenery Along the Way – I Want to Travel Across China: A Mid-Plains Journey during the Rat Year Summer Vacation

After wandering around Jiangnan during the Spring Festival of the Pig Year, my wife broke her ankle in a car accident at the end of June, disrupting our summer travel plans. This year, the COVID-19 pandemic was severe during the Spring Festival, so we could only stay home. Then our daughter's college entrance exam results were not ideal, and we were stuck in frustration until everything settled on September 6. Suddenly, we decided it was time to get out and wander. We had been cooped up at home for a year and a half, feeling like we were getting moldy. So we set off on the spur of the moment. Considering my wife's leg was inconvenient, and Shanxi is a province with many historical and cultural sites, we thought it would be better to avoid climbing too many mountains. Plus, there was a ticket-free policy, so we quickly planned this year's Central Plains traversal trip. A simple itinerary was made: Day 1: Drive all day to Longtan Grand Canyon in Henan. Day 2: Longtan Grand Canyon. Day 3: Wang Family Compound, Shuanglin Temple, Pingyao Ancient City. Day 4: Pingyao Ancient City. Day 5: Hukou Waterfall, Jingbian Wave Valley. Day 6: Wave Valley. Day 7: Ganquan Yucha Grand Canyon. Day 8 & 9: Taihang Grand Canyon. As for the actual itinerary, we would just take it step by step! On September 8, we set off at 6 a.m., heading to our first stop: Longtan Grand Canyon in Luoyang, Henan. After a 10.5-hour drive, we safely arrived at the booked guesthouse. The boss and his family were all nice and hospitable. For dinner, we had three bowls of pulled noodles and a plate of Luan sprouts with shredded pork, which tasted good, but the accommodation was relatively poor – we would just make do. September 9: Longtan Grand Canyon. Around 7:30 a.m., we arrived at the ticket office at the entrance. We originally planned to book two adult tickets on Ctrip and buy a student ticket for our daughter at the counter. Unexpectedly, the scenic spot had a promotion on Wednesdays where the first 50 visitors got a 30% discount on tickets. The three of us only spent 72 yuan on tickets. Wow, what good luck! The canyon had no branching paths; we just followed the trail. The road was relatively flat, with basically no steep stairs, so it wasn't physically demanding. At the end, there was a non-mandatory scenic vehicle that took us back to the entrance for 20 yuan per person. The canyon was deep and serene, with cool breezes, clear flowing water, and scattered unknown little flowers blooming stubbornly and quietly, still vibrant. Colorful butterflies and small black dragonflies that looked like butterflies fluttered beside us, as if we were in a painting. Dark red rock walls were covered with green moss, and small trees grew firmly on the rocks, swaying in the wind. The red and green matched harmoniously, creating a picturesque scene. After leaving Longtan Grand Canyon, we headed straight to the Wang Family Compound in Jinzhong, Shanxi. It was already dark when we arrived. At the entrance, we were about to contact the innkeeper we had booked, but we met a middle-aged man soliciting customers. As it turned out, he was exactly the person we wanted to contact – what a coincidence! The inn was located on a high spot, with two steep slopes and a sharp turn. My small-displacement car struggled to climb, and I was very nervous, afraid it wouldn't make it. Luckily, it didn't let me down at the critical moment! September 10: Wang Family Compound and Shuanglin Temple. At 8 a.m., before we even reached the entrance, we heard noisy crowds and saw wave after wave of tour groups pouring in. Damn, where was the so-called off-season? Where were the few people? So many people were overwhelming! After finally scanning the code and entering the compound, we looked at the surging crowds. Forget about grabbing a prime spot for photos – there wasn't even a quiet place. What a contrast to yesterday when we almost had the whole canyon to ourselves! Fortunately, the grandeur and magnificence of the Wang Family Compound did not disappoint. Spanning 300 years of construction, it's reputed as the number one private residence in China, and that's no empty claim. Its original construction area of 250,000 square meters is unimaginable! Any other family's residence would pale in comparison. Although the existing area is only one-tenth of the original, it still looks more like a city than a compound. Exquisite wood carvings, brick carvings, and stone carvings, along with carefully arranged courtyards and unique gardens and ponds, showcased an opulent lifestyle. Its wealth, comparable to that of the Ma family (referring to Jack Ma and Ma Huateng) in modern times, was truly staggering. Shuanglin Temple – a very small and peculiar scenic spot. It's a 5A-rated attraction but looks like an ordinary small temple from the outside. It's not famous for incense offerings but for its painted sculptures, renowned worldwide. Those who love it are fanatical; those who don't barely glance at it. Our family carefully and devoutly explored the temple, which had almost no visitors, making sure not to miss any highlights. My daughter even ranked it as the top attraction of this Shanxi-Shaanxi trip. The painted sculptures, over 1,400 years old, still have vibrant and harmonious colors. Although the figures are exaggerated, they are vivid and lifelike. Look at the Guanyin statue – one leg is raised, the other dangling, sitting casually and freely, hence the name "Carefree Guanyin." The attendant's small eyes are lively and vivid, staring right at you like a real person, giving a slightly eerie feeling that makes your hair stand on end. Unfortunately, some of the thousand Buddha figures on the temple walls have fallen off and are piled together with the statues below, and some Buddha statues in the main hall are also partially damaged. These artistic treasures, with the loss of ancient craftsmanship and the inability of modern people to restore them, will gradually lose their color and soul over time due to wind and sun exposure, vanishing in the river of time. All we can do is sigh! At 4 p.m., we arrived at the Guangyu Inn in Pingyao Ancient City, which we had booked on Ctrip. It was the most stylish and highest-grade accommodation of this trip, costing 148 yuan per night including breakfast. The inn was not far from the bustling center of the ancient city, just a few minutes' walk away. My wife and daughter walked a few steps on the street and shouted that they couldn't walk anymore. They sat on a stone bench by the roadside and demanded food. Fine! What's a tour of an ancient city without eating and having fun? Wasn't the popular restaurant "Hongwu Ji" just a few steps ahead? Go, go, go! Pingyao beef paired with Shanxi Fenjiu liquor is my perfect combination. The beef arrived, but the liquor didn't. My beautiful vision was shattered by the two ladies. September 11: Pingyao Ancient City. According to the plan, the whole day belonged to the ancient city. Ancient cities, ancient towns, and ancient villages – I've visited quite a few in recent years, and my senses have become somewhat numb. Among them, Pingyao Ancient City is the first ancient town that doesn't have a close connection with water, probably due to its geographical location in the north-central region where water is scarce. From this perspective, its lack of water's elegance seems to deprive it of a bit of soul. Although Pingyao, like other ancient towns, is crowded with tourists and lined with shops, there are no shopkeepers standing at the doors to pull in customers. In particular, there are no tacky bars that clash with the ancient town's atmosphere, no modern forced inclusion of neon lights and drunken revelry. It doesn't feel like there's a heavy modern commercial trace. It's as if the many shops are innate, a continuation of past prosperity. The ancient city is packed with draft banks, numerous cultural relics and historical sites that are well preserved. Around the bustling commercial area, local residents still live. Pingyao has a more down-to-earth, original, and authentic feel compared to other southern water towns – this is Pingyao's unique soul. Pingyao was probably a financial center and prosperous town of its time, evident from the bustling financial street. For anyone, there are too many draft banks, all more or less the same. Looking at too many makes you numb. However, the county government office, which combines judicial functions, a prison, living quarters, and various administrative departments, caught my interest. This was just the office of a small local official, yet it was so magnificent and impressive. And my quirky daughter was very interested in the martial arts guild and escort agency, having a great time playing around and exclaiming with joy! Having fun! Besides having fun, eating well was also important! Wantuo (a local snack), Kaolaolao (a type of oat roll), and the trendy yogurt shop's aged vinegar stir-fried yogurt – don't stop! The key was that eating yogurt at that shop gave us a 30% discount at Hongwu Ji restaurant. Wow, so we continued our lunch at Hongwu Ji! What fun! The food looked beautiful, tasted amazing, and the price was satisfying. Look, four dishes with a 30% discount cost only 91 yuan. What a bargain! After eating, we continued exploring! After leaving Pingyao, we drove for three and a half hours and arrived at a guesthouse near Hukou Waterfall in Shanxi around 7 p.m. We simply had three bowls of noodles for 45 yuan, showered, and rested. September 12: Hukou Waterfall and Yucha Grand Canyon. Originally, our plan for today was to go from Hukou Waterfall to Wave Valley, but the weather forecast told us that only today would be partly cloudy between sunny intervals, and the next three days would be rainy. Since Yucha Grand Canyon in Shaanxi would close on rainy days, to avoid a wasted trip, we changed the plan and decided to go to Yucha Grand Canyon first. We got up early to enter the Hukou scenic area as soon as possible, aiming to finish by 9:30 and then head to Yucha Grand Canyon because the best viewing time there was from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., during peak sunlight. Before we left, the guesthouse owner brought over several kinds of fruit. Take a look – this bright red pear, which I had never seen before, caught my interest. Before it fully ripens, it has a strong apple fragrance. When fully ripe, it's soft, juicy, and very sweet. It's said that when this pear is fully ripe, you can insert a straw and drink it! On both sides of the Yellow River, you can view Hukou Waterfall from either Shanxi or Shaanxi. This year, the Yellow River's water volume was high, so the viewing platforms on the Shanxi side were flooded and closed. We could only watch from the Shaanxi side. Early in the morning, the navigation wasn't fully awake and gave terrible directions, wasting nearly an hour before we finally reached the South Visitor Center in Shaanxi. I was fuming. Actually, it wasn't the navigation's fault – it was directing us to the North Visitor Center. Originally, the Shaanxi side had a North Visitor Center, only about 2 kilometers from the entrance, and many visitors could walk to the scenic area, saving 20 yuan per person for the scenic vehicle. But later, it was closed and a South Visitor Center was built, 8 kilometers away, and a 40-yuan scenic vehicle ticket per person was mandatory – it felt like forced consumption, which left a bad impression. Fortunately, our daughter's college entrance exam admission ticket allowed her free entry, along with one accompanying family member. Considering we saved two tickets, we decided not to complain. The view at Hukou Waterfall was truly outstanding. The muddy yellow water of the Yellow River, the same color as the loess on both banks, seemed to come from the sky. At the Hukou (bottleneck), the water rapidly contracted and accelerated, roaring and surging with deafening power – magnificent and awe-inspiring. Humans felt insignificant like dust in front of this natural wonder. The water mist created by the surging currents drifted, settling on people's faces, cool and refreshing. But when you wiped it, your hand was covered with yellow sand – it was like a yellow sand facial mask! Visiting Hukou Waterfall left no regrets! It was breathtaking, and we lingered for photos for two hours, enough. We rushed to the next stop around 10 a.m. After a three-and-a-half-hour drive, we arrived at Yucha Grand Canyon at 1:40 p.m. We scanned the health code and bought tickets – 70 yuan per person for the scenic vehicle, but free admission. Currently, only Mudan Gully and Huashu Gully are open at Yucha Grand Canyon. The Yixiantian (a narrow crevice) opposite Mudan Gully collapsed during a recent heavy rain and is closed. Thinking of the Jiuzhaigou earthquake, some scenic spots should be visited sooner rather than later! After waiting in a winding, long queue for the scenic vehicle, we finally boarded 1 hour and 20 minutes later. The vehicle drove for 40 minutes on mountain roads, and when we reached the first spot, Mudan Gully, it was already past 4 p.m., and the light was dim. We missed the best viewing time. We had been calculating time since early morning, but it was no match for the weather. Mudan Gully is a very short and small spot. I intended to skip it and go straight to Huashu Gully, but my wife and daughter insisted that since we were there, we should take a look. It turned out that spending half an hour in Mudan Gully wasn't worth it, and it took another 20 minutes to get from Mudan Gully to Huashu Gully. We should have allocated more time to Huashu Gully – that's the essence of Yucha Grand Canyon! Huashu Gully – a bizarre and surreal world. A visual feast of colors, light, shadows, and forms intertwined. This is the lines, shadows, rings, and colors carved by nature for the world. Beautiful and fantastical like a fairy tale world. The deeper we went, the narrower and slipperier the path became, with the narrowest part only wide enough for one person. The canyon was magical and beautiful, eliciting endless admiration. Well, for this, we could forgive the narrow and slippery path, the difficulty of moving forward due to the crowd, and the regret of not being able to take photos in peace because of the sea of people. We exited Huashu Gully and returned to the visitor center after 6:30 p.m. For safety, I didn't want to drive on winding mountain roads at night, so we found a cave-style inn near the road to Wave Valley in Jingbian – Yundian Inn. Its exterior looked nice. This inn was the biggest surprise of the trip. It had a large parking lot, a triple room for 90 yuan, clean and hygienic, with disposable items and branded bathroom fixtures. We were very satisfied. September 13: Yongning Mountain Ancient Village and Wave Valley. Yongning Mountain Ancient Village was a temporary stop on the way to Wave Valley, and it was free. With over 1,000 years of history, the ancient village looked like a castle from a distance, situated on very steep terrain, as if one person could hold off ten thousand. It was built in the Song Dynasty as a refuge from war and conflict. It is said that during the revolutionary period, Liu Zhidan lived here to carry out the revolution and invited Chairman Mao to stay for over forty days. On the rock face, remnants of the Cultural Revolution era remained, with slogans like "Long Live Chairman Mao! Long Live the Great Leap Forward!" When we arrived, the gate was closed. Guided by a couple who had just finished their visit, we squeezed through a small gap at the entrance. The ancient village was very impressive! The top of the village was under renovation, so we couldn't reach the summit. We arrived at Wave Valley and met the local contact, Xiao Wang, who arranged our accommodation. After lunch, it started to rain heavily. According to Xiao Wang, such heavy rain had not been seen in years, but in our Jiangsu province, it was common. With the heavy rain, there was nothing to do but sleep. We rested until after 5 p.m., when the rain stopped. Our family of three and another couple took Xiao Wang's car to scenic spots 3 and 4. The sky hadn't cleared; it was still overcast, but the air was fresh after the rain. The red sandstone rock body, washed by the rain, looked even brighter. Layers, piles, circles, clumps – these were the rings carved by time, wind, and rain – mysterious and magical. The lake water was emerald green, as calm as a mirror. Occasionally, a breeze passed, ruffling the green water, creating ripples that spread out, like ripples of awe in people's hearts. The Danxia landform and green water coordinated perfectly, stunning my entire world! The heavy rain washed away the dirt on the rock body, but also washed away the red sand grains that formed the rock, leaving a layer of fine sand on the ground. Many rock surfaces had man-made carvings like eternal vows or "so-and-so was here," which were very eye-catching. Don't harm the scenery for personal preferences or profits; rocks, like people, feel pain. Carving your love on sandstone doesn't make it eternal. If you want to express your feelings, change the place and method. Perhaps in a few years, these landscapes will gradually disappear under the erosion of wind and rain and the lack of care from visitors. September 14: Wave Valley. Scenic spot 1 of Wave Valley was under construction for a boardwalk and was closed to the public. It was said to open on October 1, but we came too early. This is the most essential spot in the entire Wave Valley. To enter and view it, you had to enter before 6 a.m. with a local guide. The sky was still pitch black, but 7 or 8 cars were already parked at the entrance. Most people were walking back and forth in front of their cars to ward off the pre-dawn chill, anxiously waiting for the first light. The weather in Shaanxi in early September was still quite cool, so bringing warm clothes was necessary. As the sky gradually brightened, groups of visitors entered the scenic area. It wasn't fully light yet, and the light was dim, but a visual spectacle had already unfolded before our eyes! Without further ado, look at the photos! At 10 a.m., we visited the last stop of Wave Valley, scenic spot 5. This area was relatively small and had its own characteristics, but it clearly couldn't compare with spots 1, 3, and 4. If time was limited, it could be skipped. Our original last stop was Taihang Grand Canyon, but we were worried about my wife's ankle not being up to it, plus we had some family matters to attend to earlier. So after discussion, we decided to make Huangchengxiangfu (the Prime Minister's Mansion of the Huangcheng) our final stop. We arrived at the Yangcheng Government No. 2 Guesthouse, booked on Ctrip, around 7 p.m. This government guesthouse deserves a mention: 81 yuan for a triple room, the facilities were a bit old, but it was affordable, clean, and hygienic. Crucially, it included breakfast the next day – great value for money! September 15: Huangchengxiangfu. Known as the residence of the premier cultural family in northern China. The owner was a teacher of Emperor Kangxi, supervised the compilation of the Kangxi Dictionary, and the family produced many academicians of the Imperial Academy – truly remarkable. It was said that at 8 a.m., there would be a cultural performance at the main gate reenacting the emperor's arrival, but unfortunately, it was raining heavily when we arrived, and the performance was canceled. The architectural style of Huangchengxiangfu is similar to the Wang Family Compound's – typical large courtyards of the Ming and Qing dynasties in northern China. But here, you could feel more of the cultural atmosphere of a scholarly family. Inside the compound, there is a Kangxi Dictionary Museum, which preserves the first edition of the Kangxi Dictionary. The Shanhe Tower was very imposing. After 2.5 hours, we left the scenic area and had our last meal of the trip at Hele Guan restaurant. We ordered Yangcheng roasted liver, Shanxi guoyourou (fried sliced pork), and another dish whose name I forgot but wasn't tasty. The guoyourou's presentation was far inferior to the one in Pingyao, but the taste was acceptable, and the roasted liver was just average. A happy trip always ends too quickly. I got into my beloved little car, picked up my two "tails" (my wife and daughter), and headed home! In summary, this self-driving trip through the Central Plains demonstrated the freedom and flexibility of self-driving. No one rushed us; we could spend as much time as we wanted based on our physical condition, go as fast or slow as we liked – we had plenty of time. We could also change the itinerary at any time based on the weather to avoid wasted trips. Our final itinerary became: Longtan Grand Canyon – Wang Family Compound – Shuanglin Temple – Pingyao Ancient City – Hukou Waterfall – Yucha Grand Canyon – Yongning Mountain Ancient Village – Wave Valley – Huangchengxiangfu, a total of 9 scenic spots. The trip lasted 9 days from start to finish, with total expenses of over 4,800 yuan, and we drove 3,500 kilometers.