Measuring China on Foot (A Small Loop of Shanxi, Shaanxi, Ningxia, Inner Mongolia)
The sky is vast, the earth is wide—why not go see? The road is always underfoot—why not take a walk? Don’t always talk about the future, because you never know how near or far it really is.
A last-minute decision to set off. (This text is a bit long; please read patiently—I hope it helps with your trip.)
The itinerary was planned very suddenly, about 3 days. Let's go~~~~~
Below is the route map. Starting point: Tianjin
The joy of self-driving is that you are in full control of the time and the journey, experiencing wind and rain and the impact of various weather conditions.
Essential items: sun-protective clothing, sunscreen, sun hat, scarf, stomach medicine, medicine for bruises and sprains.
(Sunscreen is for the desert; stomach medicine in case lamb and beef are hard to digest; medicine for bruises in case of accidents.)
Tip: You must prepare these—I ended up using all of them.
DAY 1:
Depart in the afternoon from Tianjin. Destination: Yan'an (Navigation shows: 970 km, 11 hours 28 minutes). Considering that our driver would be tired on such a long drive, we temporarily changed plans and made a stop at Taiyuan instead. Arriving in the evening, we strolled around Liuxiang—a very good choice.
DAY 2, First Stop: Yan'an
Taiyuan → Yan'an (447 km, 6 hours)
Yan'an, a famous red revolutionary holy land, where Huangdi's Mausoleum lies. Located in northern Shaanxi Province, in the middle reaches of the Yellow River, it borders Yichuan in Shanxi across the Yellow River. Therefore, there are two options for viewing and experiencing the magnificent Hukou Waterfall: one is in Yichuan, Shanxi; the other is in Yan'an, Shaanxi (the Yan'an side is more spectacular). I won't say too much here—go experience the visual and auditory shock for yourself.
Accommodation: The first choice is the characteristic cave dwelling (yaodong). The price is slightly higher than elsewhere, but definitely worth it. The feeling of sleeping by the Yellow River is not something you can experience all the time. And when I first opened the door of the cave dwelling, I felt a little excited inside, so paying a bit more is totally worth it.
DAY 3–DAY 4, Second Stop: Zhongwei
Yan'an → Zhongwei (660 km, 8 hours)
Since the distance is long, we arrived in Zhongwei in the afternoon. After checking the time, we decided to visit the “Route 66” first.
This Chinese version of “Route 66” lives up to its reputation as a must-visit spot. Hidden in a canyon of the Yellow River basin, this road crosses several mountains and deep ravines, breaking through barren, uninhabited ultimate beauty. Several times I felt we had taken the wrong way. But when we saw the “66” sign, we knew we had reached our destination. Some people say that “Route 66” is not as exaggerated as online reviews suggest and that it’s not necessary to go out of your way to see it. That depends on personal preference. The more roads you travel, perhaps the less sensitive you become to visual novelty, but reverence for nature is always supreme.
Driving along “Route 66” toward the horizon, we saw almost no people and only sparse vehicles. About 15 minutes later, we arrived at a dilapidated village—Beichangtan. The surging Yellow River washes against this old village built in the Ming and Qing dynasties. Houses have collapsed and are damaged, while ancient trees still stand. Everywhere is filled with the sense of time's passage. It has now become a base for painting and photography, a place enthusiasts must not miss.
1. “Route 66” is a two-lane road, but vehicles generally drive fast, and there are many curves. Drive carefully.
2. Beichangtan is along the Yellow River with lots of sand and soil. There are no paths on the slopes. If you want to climb, wear comfortable shoes.
3. In summer, bring plenty of water. Only Beichangtan has a place to buy it; no other places along the way have water for sale.
Accommodation in Zhongwei:
It is recommended to stay near the Gulou (Drum Tower) in the city center, which is convenient for eating and staying. Recommendation: Near the Gulou, there is a “Ice Boiled Lamb” (bing zhu yang) restaurant—you can search online (few tables, need to queue).
If you are traveling with a very young child, be sure to bring baby food or bring your own cooking pot. Because Zhongwei’s lifestyle is slightly less developed than first- and second-tier cities, food choices are not very rich, with lots of lamb and beef, which may be hard for children to digest.
After one night of rest, the next day we went directly from the hotel to the desert—Shapotou.
If the hotel sells Shapotou tickets, it is recommended to buy them there. Shapotou has admission tickets and combo tickets. Admission tickets only include the scenic area (students half price). If you want to play the activities, you need to buy separate tickets. So it is recommended to buy a combo ticket. Choose the type according to your needs (good value). If you buy tickets online, be sure to check the time—combo tickets cannot be purchased on the same day and must be booked in advance. The hotel ticket office can sell same-day combo tickets. For two adults and one child, we paid a total of 1,055 yuan, which was quite reasonable on average.
A brief note: It takes about half an hour from the Gulou to the Shapotou scenic area. If you are not self-driving, arrange a return vehicle in advance—it’s hard to find a taxi nearby.
Make sure to protect yourself from the sun to avoid sunburn.
Shapotou is divided into a desert area and a Yellow River area. After 12:30 PM, the sheepskin raft ride in the Yellow River area is available. If you go early in the morning, it is recommended to start with the desert area, as the desert will be very hot in the afternoon.
Only those who go know the ecstasy of seeing the desert for the first time. You can be completely like a child, lying down and rolling on the sand, running around—it's wonderful.
Camel riding and desert off-roading are must-dos, because such experiences are not available every day. The cute camels are very gentle; do not startle them and treat animals kindly.
From the desert area to the Yellow River area, there are shuttle buses, so you don’t need to walk much. But still wear comfortable shoes. It’s best not to wear sandals, as the sand will burn your feet. Sand shoe covers are optional—I thought it wasn’t necessary so I didn’t buy them.
As for the activities, you can experience them yourself. I won’t say much; let the pictures speak.
DAY 5, Third Stop: Yinchuan
Zhongwei → Yinchuan (200 km, 2.5 hours)
Yinchuan, the capital of Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region. Although it is a city along the Yellow River, Ningxia has a high green coverage rate. I still remember that the first time I became interested in Ningxia was because of the Western Xia, because of Li Yuanhao, because of this mysterious ethnic group.
Originally, I planned to visit Zhenbeibu Western Film Studio and the Western Xia Imperial Tombs National Archaeological Site Park. But after reading the introductions, I felt they didn't meet my personal needs. The Ningxia Museum requires advance booking for tickets, and we missed the date. So I decisively passed on these two places. However, for photography and film enthusiasts, the Western Film Studio is still recommended. Instead, we chose to visit a lesser-known spot in Yinchuan.
Chengtian Temple: The only ancient pagoda in Ningxia with a recorded date from a historical document. Built during the Western Xia period, it has deep historical culture and stories. The temple is shaded by green trees, peaceful and comfortable. Chengtian Temple is not large, suitable for a leisurely stroll. When tired, sit under an old tree—a rare enjoyment in the hustle and bustle of the city.
Lanshan Park: Located in the city center, a must-visit with a rating of 5 stars. No admission fee; there are children's play facilities in the square. After climbing 208 steps, you are greeted by magnificent European-style architecture, more like an ancient Roman amphitheater. Climb high and look far, ending the day's fatigue accompanied by the sunset. (This is a great place to watch the sunset. Bring your camera tripod—every moment is a wonderful picture.) The sunset in Yinchuan is late; in summer it is recommended to watch around 8 PM. (My phone battery ran low, so I didn't take good photos—please forgive me!)
Due to time constraints, I didn't make it to the Western Xia Imperial Tombs this time, which is a pity. But I still love the history of Western Xia. If you are interested, you can visit Shuidonggou, which is quite far from the city. It is recommended to set aside a whole day. And so, the Ningxia leg of the trip ended. Continue the next itinerary.
DAY 6, Fourth Stop: Ordos
Yinchuan → Ordos (460 km, 6–7 hours)
To prepare for the next stop, we chose to spend a day in Ordos, play on the grassland, go horseback riding, and visit the Mausoleum of Genghis Khan. But reality was a bit harsh.
I have been to grasslands in the northwest and to Ulanqab, but Ordos grassland was quite disappointing. Perhaps because it is in the upper reaches of the Yellow River, the grassland is heavily desertified. The grass was yellow-green all the way. At first I thought it was due to drought, but later I realized this is what Ordos grassland is like. If you don’t have to pass through, or if you want to visit grassland, you should drive a bit farther to Hohhot. As for the Mausoleum of Genghis Khan, after reading the introduction I learned it is a cenotaph, and my interest suddenly dropped. I decided to give up. So, your mood really determines your next step.
But since we were already on the grassland, we couldn’t miss horseback riding. Near Ordos grassland, there are places to ride horses at reasonable prices. It was a nice experience for the child.
DAY 7, Fifth Stop: Datong
Ordos → Datong (400 km, 6 hours)
Mentioning Datong feels like a kind of magic—it always pulls you, never letting you forget this place, always making you want to come see it.
The first time I wanted to go to Datong, my husband changed the plan to Qinghai at the last minute; the second time, we changed to Chongqing; the third time, I wanted to go from Ulanqab to Datong but changed the route due to time. So after missing three times, I decided this time I must see it for real.
Departing from Ordos in the morning, we arrived in Datong around 2 PM. After checking the route and weather, we decided to go to Yungang Grottoes first. Built during the Northern Wei dynasty, it took over 60 years to complete, with a total of 45 caves, including several folk caves. Cave 3 houses the largest indoor Buddha statue, and Cave 5 has the largest Buddha statue in Yungang. Caves 11–14 were under restoration during our visit. You can look up information online, or it is very worthwhile to hire a guide. Although Datong is not a Buddhist sacred site, standing before these statues, it is not hard to see the prosperity of the Northern Wei before moving the capital to Luoyang. Having Buddha in your heart is a yearning and hope for happiness.
Due to weathering and historical human damage, some Buddha figures in the caves have suffered considerable damage. But the extraordinary craftsmanship of the ancients is truly admirable. When visiting, try not to take photos inside the caves. If you must leave a souvenir, do not use flash.
Perhaps this is Buddhist affinity. Standing before the Buddha, a feeling of reverence arises. Gazing at each peaceful face and the damaged visages, a mixture of joy and regret wells up inside—joy at being able to see the countenance, and regret that the damage cannot be repaired. No matter how advanced technology becomes, it cannot bring back the most glorious moments of the past.
I lingered, unwilling to leave. I left several times, only to turn back again, as if watching the blessings on each smiling face. At that moment, I thought of my departed grandmother...
Personally, I believe Yungang Grottoes is a must-see in one's lifetime. Although it does not dazzle like beautiful scenery, the yearning for happiness can be fully released here. It empties your mind—perhaps still the same: this is Buddhist affinity.
DAY 8: Return to Tianjin
Due to weather, Datong experienced heavy rain and some areas had mudslides. So we decided to end the trip and return to Tianjin. On the day of return, we visited the old city of Datong and saw the largest Nine-Dragon Wall in the country in the drizzle.
And so it ended somewhat hastily. Perhaps I have no fate to spend more time in Datong, but I finally connected with the Buddha and visited the long-awaited Yungang Grottoes—that is enough. As for Datong, the Hanging Temple in Hunyuan and Mount Hengshan, I hope not to miss them in the next trip.
In life, never always say “I’ll do it later.” This journey taught me a lot, showed me a lot, and opened my eyes to many things. Maybe someday I will forget what I did on a certain day, but every step I took will never be abandoned. Press the pause button—wait for the next departure.
Thank you for reading. I hope you can offer suggestions, and I hope this helps with your trip.
