“Chinese Civilization Root-Seeking Self-Driving Tour [2020/07/04-2020/07/13]”

965km & 11 hours, from Hangzhou, Zhejiang to Dengfeng, Henan, our family of four finally set off on the 2020 “Chinese Civilization Root-Seeking” self-driving tour. Driving was a bit tiring, but the mind was free; the family was harmonious and happy, and I thought that should be the most beautiful scenery in the world. The hotel room faced Mount Song in the Central Mountains, whose towering and majestic posture was awe-inspiring. Authentic Henan braised noodles with a couple of side dishes were our satisfying dinner. At the nearby Songyang Park, we listened to the local citizens’ rhythmic Henan opera, quietly experiencing the self-sufficient and leisurely slow life of the local people. Tomorrow we will go to the Shaolin Temple, White Horse Temple, and a mysterious place…

【Day 2】Shaolin Temple, a term that excites people just by hearing it, now appeared so vividly before our eyes! By enabling the auto-narrate feature on the Gaode Map scenic spot guide, we could walk around the Shaolin Temple and listen to explanations wherever we went, which was very convenient. Listening to the theme song of “Shaolin Temple” and seeing the pits where martial monks practiced, we felt a unique emotion. The Erlitou Xia Capital Site Museum, not far from the Shaolin Temple, was our second stop of the day. For a long time, archaeological discoveries (such as Yinxu) have confirmed the existence of Shang Dynasty history, but the authenticity of the Xia Dynasty has remained in doubt. The Erlitou archaeological discovery is a “major breakthrough” in the study of the Xia-Shang chronology. Of course, I think the lack of written evidence, the most convincing proof, is still a big regret. The Erlitou Museum is grand and solemn, with extensive use of information technology, worthy of study and observation by history enthusiasts. Near the hotel where we stayed tonight is the famous Luoyang White Horse Temple, the first officially built temple in Chinese history, “China’s First Ancient Temple” – quite a big deal!

【Day 3】Under the blazing sun, we visited the Longmen Grottoes in Luoyang, Henan. The service facilities of a 5A scenic area are guaranteed; we could even park our car in the cool underground parking lot. The most representative statue of the Longmen Grottoes, the Vairocana Buddha, is a must-see attraction. It is said to have been carved based on Wu Zetian’s appearance. During the visit, we occasionally saw some incomplete Buddha statues in the grottoes. I think the reasons might include the several anti-Buddhist movements in history, natural weathering, but more likely the plundering by Western powers in the last 200 years. Some precious Buddhist heads are still in museums in Europe and America, which is disheartening… Leaving the Longmen Grottoes, we continued driving westward – next stop, Mount Hua, the Western Sacred Mountain!

【Day 4】Mount Hua, the Western Sacred Mountain, is magnificent! With cable cars to the West Peak and North Peak, the perilous Mount Hua is no longer out of reach. Today, we ascended from the West Peak and descended from the North Peak, especially experiencing the thrilling Plank Walk in the Sky! Although we took more than 25,000 steps and returned to the hotel exhausted, we knew in our hearts: Mount Hua, it was well worth the visit!

【Day 5】In the morning, we set off from the foot of Mount Hua and drove a hundred kilometers to the Emperor Qinshihuang’s Mausoleum Site Museum in Lintong, Xi’an. Only by coming to the site can you truly touch the pulsating rhythm of Chinese civilization and feel the profoundness of Chinese history! The terracotta warriors we saw are just the tip of the iceberg of the underground treasures of the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor. Archaeological excavations are still ongoing, and I believe there will be more exciting discoveries in the future! Our second stop was the Huaqing Palace at the foot of Lishan Mountain, less than 10 km from the Qin Mausoleum. Apart from some newly built imitation ancient buildings, the highlights of Huaqing Palace should be the Huaqing Pool and the Five-Jian Hall. The former is a historical relic of the imperial bathing of the Tang Dynasty, along with the love story of Emperor Tang Minghuang Li Longji and Yang Yuhuan; the latter is the site of the “Xi’an Incident,” with bullet holes clearly visible on the walls, as if telling us about that historical turning point that changed the course of China’s War of Resistance. Hangzhou is deep in water, Xi’an is burning hot! After a few days of travel, my neck has turned dark and tanned. But we finally arrived in Xi’an!! The night in Xi’an still doesn’t darken after 8 PM. Right outside the hotel is the Shuyuan Men, and not far away are the Xi’an City Wall, Bell and Drum Towers, and the Muslim Quarter. A casual stroll nearby is a very Xi’an experience.

【Day 6】The entire daytime today, we stayed in the hotel, only because we feared Xi’an’s scorching sun; moreover, after several consecutive days of sightseeing, we really needed time to rest. At dusk, we packed up and set off again. Our first stop was Yongxing Fang near the Zhongshan Gate of the Xi’an East City Wall. Here, almost all Shaanxi delicacies were available. Compared to the Muslim Quarter, Yongxing Fang has more authenticity and substance; no wonder locals prefer to come here to satisfy their cravings. We had dinner at Yongxing Fang, then climbed onto the Xi’an City Wall. At night, the city wall, with its lights, looked even more majestic at a glance. This is the best-preserved and largest ancient city wall in the world. The ups and downs of the Xi’an City Wall are a legendary history full of vicissitudes. When in Xi’an, how can you not go up to the Xi’an City Wall?

【Day 7】Today we joined a local one-day tour in Xi’an, with destinations being Maoling Mausoleum, Qianling Mausoleum, and Famen Temple. This is a route we have been longing for, because for a family that loves studying history, there are so many stories there. As the saying goes, “Qin Emperor and Han Emperor”: the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor is at the foot of Lishan Mountain, while the tomb of Emperor Wu of Han is Maoling. Current development has just begun, but there have already been national treasure discoveries such as “Horse Trampling a Xiongnu Soldier.” Qianling is the joint tomb of Empress Wu Zetian and Emperor Tang Gaozong Li Zhi. We finally saw the famous Wordless Stele. Wu Zetian, as the only female emperor in Chinese history, is admirable for her perseverance, determination, wisdom, and decisiveness. The archaeological findings from the underground palace of Famen Temple once shocked the world, especially the discovery of the finger bone relic of the Buddha, which demonstrates Famen Temple’s lofty status in the Buddhist world. The 2,499 Tang Dynasty artifacts discovered at the same time showcased a fascinating flourishing Tang Empire. After several days of high temperatures, Xi’an had a torrential rain today. We finished our day’s itinerary completely soaked, but with a full harvest, why fear the wind and rain?

【Day 8】To visit the Shaanxi History Museum, you must make a reservation at least 2 days in advance. We only managed to get tickets by setting an alarm at 4 AM the day before yesterday. The artifacts on display at the Shaanxi History Museum are just a fraction of its entire collection, but they are already enough to dominate the world. Most of the exhibits in the museum are originals, showing its deep heritage. On the way, we visited the Ci’en Temple and the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, which are iconic buildings of Xi’an, famous worldwide due to the Tang Dynasty monk Xuanzang. The Mausoleum of the Yellow Emperor is a place we have always yearned for, because the Yellow Emperor is the common ancestor of all Chinese people! In the parking lot, we could see cars from all over the country, showing the importance of the Yellow Emperor Mausoleum in the hearts of Chinese people. Our daughters’ names contain the character “Xuan” (Zhang Lexuan, Zhang Leyuan), and today they took a commemorative photo together in front of the Xuanyuan Temple at the Yellow Emperor Mausoleum. At dusk, we safely arrived at Yan’an, the holy land of the Chinese revolution.

【Day 9】Yan’an, the cradle and holy land of the Chinese revolution. Today we visited Pagoda Mountain, the Yan’an Revolutionary Memorial Hall, the Yangjialing Revolutionary Site, and the Zaoyuan. What impressed me most was the power of faith! Long live Chairman Mao!

【Day 10】The Hukou Waterfall of the Yellow River was even more awe-inspiring than imagined, with its thunderous momentum irresistible! The hotel was right inside the scenic area; stepping out the door, we had an unobstructed view of the Hukou Waterfall. Accompanied by the roar of the water, we could even fall asleep soundly. Also, the local Yellow River carp was delicious! Leaving the Hukou Waterfall, we ended our trip and returned to Hangzhou.