Shanxi-Shaanxi Connection Tour
This summer, the 'Six-Day Tour of Shanxi, Shaanxi, and Henan' on Ctrip matched my interests, so I booked and set off.
On the evening of the 12th, I left Shanghai on Z196 at 18:16 from Shanghai Station, heading to Taiyuan, Shanxi (only five stops, arriving in Taiyuan just in time for the tour).
On the morning of the 13th, I arrived at Taiyuan Station at 8:14. The guide, Xiao Sun, warmly greeted me, and I boarded the bus to start the journey. After over four hours, we arrived at Qikou Ancient Town in Lin County, Shanxi, by the Yellow River. After a simple lunch and rest, we headed to the first scenic spot. About 40 kilometers from the town lies the Yellow River Gallery scenic area, which is still under development, with primitive roads and docks. No entrance fee is required, but you need to purchase a ticket for the shuttle bus and boat (80 yuan). We walked down a dirt road to the riverbank, boarded a small motorboat, and went downstream. On the stone cliffs along the shore, the gullies formed by long-term erosion from the Yellow River water resemble words or patterns, earning the name Yellow River Gallery. The boat stopped along the way for us to disembark and take photos freely before returning to the starting point.
The second scenic spot was Lijiashan Village. Now developed for rural tourism, the road reaches the village entrance directly (no entrance fee, shuttle bus 20 yuan). On both sides of the mountain valley, typical Shanxi stone cave dwellings are built on the mountain, layered upon layers, described by Mr. Wu Guanzhong as 'the houses of Lijiashan grow out of the mountain.' Nowadays, apart from the elderly, few young people are seen in the village; there are more tourists than villagers. Besides farming, they run inns and shops, bringing in considerable income. After a stroll, we returned to Qikou Ancient Town.
Qi (shoal) refers to underwater reefs and shallows. When the Yellow River boats reach this point, they abandon the boats and go ashore due to the shoals. Over time, merchants gathered, forming a land-and-water transfer dock, known as 'the first town of the Yellow River's nine bends.' The ancient town is not large. Along the river, West Market Street has turned warehouses into inns and hotels for tourism; Middle Market Street remains a Ming-Qing dynasty ancient street selling souvenirs and local products; East Market Street is for local residents. The guide led us up to the Black Dragon Temple on the mountaintop. Overlooking the Yellow River from a high vantage point, the two-courtyard temple is built on the mountain. The first courtyard houses neither Buddha nor Taoist deities; in the middle is the Black Dragon, prayed to for favorable weather; on the right is Hua Tuo, for health and safety; on the left is the God of Wealth, for business prosperity. Above the three entrance cave archways is a stage, with east and west viewing platforms and music towers on both sides of the side rooms. In an era without amplifiers, the echo formed within this courtyard was said to travel through the three cave archways down the slope, across the water, to the opposite bank, hence the saying, 'Shanxi sings, Shaanxi listens.' Behind the stage, a bell tower and drum tower stand, overlooking the Yellow River from above, offering close views of the meandering Qiushui River, distant views of the Yellow River's grandeur, listening to the sounds of the two shoals, and a panoramic view of the ancient town. This is also the best photography spot for the Yellow River sunset, but it requires patience and good weather. The second courtyard has been recently renovated, with Lord Guan (Guandi) enshrined in the middle, a testament to the deep-rooted stories of the Three Kingdoms. As we exited the Black Dragon Temple, it was getting dark. Red lanterns hung from riverside inns and shops, adding to the town's charm.
At the ferry dock by the town stands a monument to 'Chairman Mao's Eastward Crossing of the Yellow River' (a similar monument is on the opposite bank in Wubu County, Shaanxi). In 1948, Chairman Mao crossed the Yellow River here to Xibaipo, Hebei, to command the liberation of all China and establish New China.
On the 14th, after breakfast, we drove along the Qingdao-Yinchuan Expressway for about four hours to Jingbian County in northern Shaanxi. The Wave Valley (Boluogu) scenic area became an internet sensation through hikers' discoveries. After renovations, Valley 1 and 2 are open (entrance fee 100 yuan). The scenic area covers 2.5 square kilometers, with a walking path of nearly 6 kilometers, requiring about three hours to complete. You can take the glass bridge (50 yuan) to save about half an hour of climbing. The area is divided into Zone A: Flame Danxia, Zone B: Core Danxia, and Zone C: Water Danxia. Carved by wind, snow, rain, and dew over centuries, the red sandstone rolls like waves in various shapes, a masterpiece of nature. Newly built walking paths are flat and safe, but other facilities need improvement. Especially, there is no shade, and the summer sun is scorching; remember to bring sunscreen and drink plenty of water. After leaving the scenic area, we drove along the Baotou-Maoming Expressway to Ganquan County for the night.
On the 15th, about an hour's drive from the county seat, the Yucha Grand Canyon, known for its unique scenery as the Shaanxi version of Antelope Canyon, has become an internet hit. After renovations, two gorges are open: Peony Gully and Birch Tree Gully (entrance fee 98 yuan, shuttle bus 70 yuan). After a half-hour bus ride, we first visited Peony Gully, which is short with narrow passages, only passable by one person in some places. Then the shuttle bus took us to Birch Tree Gully, which is slightly longer and wider, with moss-covered walls and clear textures. The cliffs are high, and the gully is cool and pleasant. After exiting the gully, the shuttle bus took us to the exit. The entire tour took about 2.5-3 hours. Since we were among the first to enter, there weren't many people; during peak times, the narrow passages might require crowd control.
After lunch, we drove along the Qingdao-Lanzhou Expressway back to Ji County, Shanxi, and got off the expressway to revisit the Hukou Waterfall of the Yellow River. Shanxi Province has introduced a policy exempting the first entrance fee for tourists from Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai (shuttle bus 20 yuan), attracting many visitors. I had previously watched the waterfall from the Shaanxi side; this time from the Shanxi side, the view was similar, feeling the surging waves and drifting mist. On the Shanxi side, there is a 'Dragon Cave' (20 yuan), where you can descend and view the waterfall at eye level, experiencing the wonderful feeling of 'the Yellow River's water coming from the sky.'
On the 16th, we stayed overnight at the Yunqiu Mountain Resort. As a 5A scenic area, Yunqiu Mountain waives the entrance fee (shuttle bus 20 yuan), earning profits from accommodation, dining, entertainment, and cable cars; this is the real way to make money, as attracting tourists is paramount. After breakfast, the shuttle bus took us to the Shenxian Valley scenic area. We walked upstream along the creek, with mist floating around, feeling like a fairyland. At the end of the creek was the Ta'erpo Ancient Village, where villagers have moved away and become scenic area employees. The stone cave dwellings have been renovated into folk custom exhibitions. One interesting spot was the wealthy man Tian's treasure cave, with an entrance hidden behind a wall cabinet and steps leading to the upper floor, used for storing treasures or escaping. The village also hosts ethnic dance performances at set times, adding a lively atmosphere.
Leaving Ta'erpo Village, we took an electric cart (round trip 10 yuan) to the Thousand-Year Ice Cave. After disembarking, we still had to climb about 300 meters. The ice cave opens at 10 AM (entrance fee 120 yuan), with free rental of cotton coats and safety helmets. Passing through the tunnel, we entered an ice and snow world. Ice pillars and icicles hung, with a chilling atmosphere. The winding tunnels, decorated with colorful lights, looked magnificent. The contrast with the summer sun outside was like fire and ice. The back mountain area of Yunqiu Mountain offers various amusement projects, hiking, and cable cars to the summit for a panoramic view, but we didn't go due to time constraints.
After lunch, we headed to Yangcheng County, Jincheng City. The Imperial Prime Minister's Mansion (Huangcheng Xiangfu, 5A) is the ancestral home of Chen Tingjing, a minister of personnel in the Qing Dynasty. It is called 'Imperial Prime Minister's Mansion' because Emperor Kangxi once stayed here. Through the 'Middle Way Village' gate, there is a four-pillar, three-door stone archway commemorating the clan's achievements and honors. Carved with dragons and phoenixes, and surrounded by auspicious beasts, it lists the official positions and honors of Chen's five generations, serving as historical evidence for studying the Chen family history. To the left of the archway is the ancestral home, among which the most precious is the original golden nanmu dragon chair and dragon table used by Emperor Kangxi. The ancestral house has three courtyards, with east and west gardens and a young lady's building on the sides. Then we climbed the city wall to overlook the mansion. The entire complex is built against the mountain, overlooking the water. The official residences and civilian houses are densely packed in an orderly manner, simple and elegant, typical of northern Ming-Qing dynasty castle-style bureaucratic residences. Walking along the wall to the Ming-dynasty castle, it felt more like a military fortress, with five-story soldier caves interconnected in all directions, capable of storing troops and supplies, and defending for long periods. Especially the Heshan Tower, eight stories high, with a high vantage point, underground passages, grain storage and wells, and arrow towers on top, could hold out for half a year. Since Chen Tingjing oversaw the compilation of the Kangxi Dictionary in his later years, the castle also houses the Chinese Dictionary Museum, where one of the most precious items is the first edition of the Kangxi Dictionary, with only three copies remaining in the country.
That evening, we stayed at the Sitown in Jincheng. This is a new man-made tourist spot integrating sightseeing, entertainment, accommodation, and dining (entrance fee 120 yuan, including a ticket for the 'Thousand-Year Iron Soul' performance). It was said that due to rain, the park had been closed for the past few days, and today was the first opening and performance. When we got off the bus, it happened to be raining heavily. After arranging accommodation, the rain stopped, and we went out to find dinner. The town has a food street called 'Six-Foot Lane,' but unfortunately, it was not yet open; only one restaurant called 'Ten Big Bowls' that receives team groups was open. We casually ordered two dishes and ate, then went to the theater to watch the 'Thousand-Year Iron Soul' iron flower performance. Jincheng is rich in coal and iron. Ancient craftsmen, during the casting of vessels, discovered this folk performance technique, which began in the Northern Song Dynasty and flourished in the Ming and Qing dynasties. It is a traditional folk fireworks performance passed down in the Shanxi and Henan regions. The scene was thrilling and lively, a national intangible cultural heritage. The performance lasted 45 minutes, especially the climax at the end, with iron flowers flying, water and fire blending, and music and dance, the whole venue erupted.
On the 17th, after breakfast, we headed to the Taihang Grand Canyon in Huguan, Changzhi. After handling procedures at the entrance service center, the bus turned into the canyon along Provincial Highway 327, with towering cliffs on both sides and winding roads. The canyon contains multiple scenic spots such as Eight Springs Gorge, Red Bean Gorge, and Black Dragon Pool (three-day pass 140 yuan, one-day pass 100 yuan). We only visited the main attraction, Eight Springs Gorge. After parking, it started to drizzle. We took umbrellas and put on raincoats and continued. The scenic electric cart (one-way 10 yuan, round trip 20 yuan), boat (one-way 30 yuan, round trip 60 yuan), cable car (one-way 130 yuan), and sightseeing elevator (one-way 30 yuan, round trip 50 yuan) are available, or you can buy a combo ticket (180 yuan) to take the sightseeing bus to the time tunnel, then through a 2-kilometer tunnel to the dam. A high gorge and flat lake move like a ribbon in the canyon. We boarded a boat and traveled through for about 20 minutes before disembarking. Then we followed a gurgling stream, crossing left and right, ascending step by step. It was the rainy season, so the water was powerful, sounding like thunder, a feast for both eyes and ears. After about 3 kilometers, we reached the cable car bottom station. We took a cable car 2,954 meters long with a height difference of 369 meters, said to be the only turning cable car in China. At the mountaintop, the rain grew heavier, with mist and fog surrounding the peaks, appearing faint and hazy, like a dreamland. After getting off the cable car, we arrived at the Jade Emperor Cloud Summit, where there is the Jade Emperor Palace and other attractions. Unfortunately, the rain intensified, and the clouds obscured the view, so we had no mood to sightsee. The downhill path on the right takes about 40 minutes, allowing views along the way, but it was inconvenient in the rain. The left path leads to the air bus station, where you can take a high-altitude cable car (20 yuan) for only 5-6 minutes directly down to the City in the Sky, which is the upper station of the sightseeing elevator. In the City in the Sky, you can put on shoe covers and step onto the glass platform, looking down at the 208-meter cliff, heart-pounding! Three sightseeing elevators, at a speed of 4 meters per second, quickly bring visitors to the bottom of the cliff, then we took a sightseeing vehicle out of the scenic area.
On the 18th, we stayed overnight in a small town outside the Wanxian Mountain Scenic Area in Huixian, Henan. The original plan for the last day was to visit Wanxian Mountain, Guoliang Village, and the Cliff Road (Guoliang Village became famous due to movies, and the Cliff Road is known for being carved into a sheer cliff). However, we received local notice that due to forecasts of heavy rainstorms, all mountainous areas and water-related scenic spots were closed. The three-province tour of Shanxi, Shaanxi, and Henan could only become a two-province tour of Shanxi and Shaanxi—what a pity!
The bus headed to Huixian, originally planning to take the expressway, but heavy bus traffic was prohibited on the expressway, so we had to take national and provincial roads. After passing through Xinxiang city, we detoured to Yuanyang, but were blocked before the expressway again, so we continued on national and provincial roads. Only after reaching the outskirts of Zhengzhou did we get onto the Jinxin Expressway, then transferred to the Beijing-Hong Kong-Macao Expressway, heading directly to Zhengzhou Xinzheng Airport to drop off passengers (lunch at Zhengzhou East Service Area at 1 PM). Then we returned to the city via the airport expressway, facing height restrictions, construction, and traffic jams. We arrived at Zhengzhou Station around 4 PM. After sitting on the bus all day, we had an early dinner near the station and then entered the station to wait for the train. At 18:02, K154 left Zhengzhou for Shanghai.
On the morning of the 19th, we arrived safely at Shanghai Station at 6:48 and went home. While watching the evening news, we learned that Zhengzhou, Henan, had experienced a once-in-a-century rainstorm, with streets flooded and subways submerged. This natural disaster claimed many lives. I was grateful to have returned in time, escaping the disaster, otherwise I would have been stranded in Zhengzhou. I also prayed for the people in the disaster area of Henan, wishing them a swift recovery and reconstruction.
