Shaanxi Travel: A Red Journey to the Revolutionary Sacred Site Yan'an (Photos)
The Shanxi-Shaanxi Grand Canyon team successfully concluded their sightseeing at the Wave Valley in Jingbian, Yulin, Shaanxi, and drove onto the expressway to continue their next itinerary, heading to the revolutionary sacred site Yan'an for a red journey.
Heading to Yan'an (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
As soon as Yan'an is mentioned, the lyrics of that song linger in the mind: "The sunset shines on the pagoda's shadow, moonlight reflects the fireflies by the river, spring breezes sweep across the open fields, mountains form a solid screen. Ah! Yan'an, you solemn and majestic ancient city..." And whenever I hear 'Ode to Yan'an,' composed by Mo Ye with music by Zheng Lücheng, I feel deeply moved.
Arriving in Yan'an (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
In particular, the revolutionary sacred site Yan'an has an inseparable bond with this journalist. Decades ago, the vigorous movement of educated youth going to the countryside brought the journalist into close contact with the sacred site Yan'an for the first time. Although life was very hard then, it left an unforgettable impression on the journalist. Especially Yan'an's Pagoda Hill has always been a symbol of the revolutionary sacred site in the journalist's heart. Therefore, the moment of the historical photo by the Yan River remains fresh in memory.
Entering Yan'an (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
At 12:50 on October 12, 2021, the team set off from Jingbian, Yulin, and after nearly three hours by car, arrived at the southern exit of the revolutionary sacred site Yan'an at 15:30. Yan'an's local guide, a very handsome young man named Zhang Yanfei, had been waiting here for some time. Zhang Yanfei boarded the bus, warmly greeted everyone, and said that the Yan'an area has strict regulations on epidemic prevention and control. All tourists visiting any scenic spots need to provide a negative nucleic acid test result within 48 hours. Therefore, to meet the current epidemic prevention needs, we will go directly to Yan'an Wanhua Hospital for a group nucleic acid test.
Yan'an Wanhua Hospital (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
At 15:40, the bus exited the Yan'an South exit of the expressway and drove straight into the city. After a ten-minute drive, they arrived directly at Yan'an Wanhua Hospital. Since Zhao Xiangjie, the boss of the target action, had already contacted and arranged everything in advance, everyone smoothly underwent the nucleic acid test. Afterward, they arrived at the accommodation, Yan'an Ziyu Business Hotel, at 17:00.
Yan'an Night Scene (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
After a one-hour rest at the hotel, the team, led by guide Zhang Yanfei, set off from the hotel and took the bus to start the first itinerary in Yan'an at 18:00, heading to Erdao Street Snack Street within Yan'an city to taste local flavors, after which they would watch the spectacular Pagoda Light Show.
Erdao Street Archway (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
At 18:30 that evening, the Shanxi-Shaanxi Grand Canyon tour team drove into the brightly lit Yan'an city, got off at the square at the foot of Pagoda Hill, and strolled to Yan'an's famous Erdao Street Night Market Snack Street. At the entrance of the street, they saw a stone archway inscribed with "叢桂坊." After carefully identifying it for a long time, they couldn't figure out what the character "叢" was. Later, they looked it up in a dictionary and found it was the traditional form of "丛" (cluster). But was it correct? Because the character somewhat resembled cursive script, they ultimately didn't dare confirm whether this archway was indeed called "Conggui Fang."
Entering Snack Street (Photo by Geng Heping)
A city's night market may not be elegant or luxurious, but Yan'an Erdao Street is a feasting ground for locals; it is a window for tourists to explore specialty foods and experience the city's unique food culture; it is even a touch of homesickness on the tongues of Yan'an people living elsewhere.
Photo at Snack Street (Photo by Du Wangji)
The Yan'an Erdao Street Night Market is a derivative of the era's transformation in Yan'an. After more than a decade of large-scale operation, today's Erdao Street Night Market has become part of Yan'an's urban nightlife culture. Here, not only are there northern Shaanxi specialties like "spicy lamb trotters, potato cuocuo, mixed noodles, and lamb offal," but also a collection of specialties from all over China, such as "stir-fried shrimp tails, hot dry noodles, fried rice with noodles..." Every time the lights come on, this street is the first to light up and the last to go out.
Snack Street Sculpture (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Today, Yan'an Erdao Street Night Market has become a must-visit spot for tourists. Each small stall not only carries Yan'an's unique local cuisine but also serves as a medium to spread Yan'an's distinctive food culture. That evening, the journalist tasted the "hand-made shrimp balls" at a food stall and the local famous snack similar to a baked flatbread called "youxuan'er" at the Laoshijia Lamb Offal Restaurant. The taste was indeed good.
Yan'an Cultural Plaza Nightscape (Photo by Dong Jinqiu)
At 20:00 that evening, strolling from Erdao Street to the banks of the Yan River, the magnificent Yan'an Pagoda Light Show began brilliantly. As the grand music sounded on Pagoda Hill, the dazzling light show unfolded like一幅幅 beautiful and magnificent images, displaying classic scenes of China's revolutionary history, presenting the glorious years of the Republic before everyone's eyes, leaving every viewer deeply shocked and involuntarily exclaiming at the greatness and beauty of the motherland.
Photo at Yan'an Anlan Gate Tower (Photo by Guo Sanmei)
Counting this time, the journalist has been to Yan'an four times, but this was the first time to watch this wonderful performance. It left a deep and beautiful impression. Climbing up to the observation deck of the city gate tower inscribed with "Anlan" (Peaceful Waves) on South Gate Square, they watched the brilliant light show on Pagoda Hill. The towering and majestic Pagoda Hill, under the illumination of lights, changed into different colors, magnificent and grand.
Light Show Begins (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
It is reported that starting from September 29, 2016, to commemorate the 80th anniversary of the victory of the Chinese Workers' and Peasants' Red Army's Long March, a light performance has been held every evening on the entire mountain body and pagoda of Yan'an Pagoda Hill. With its rich content and vast area, it can be called the best in the country. Especially as a symbol of the revolutionary sacred site, the glorious image of Yan'an Pagoda Hill is deeply imprinted in the hearts of Chinese people and has appeared many times on stamps, currency, and various medals.
Watching the Light Show by the Yan River (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The light show on Yan'an Pagoda Hill integrates real scenery, music, and lights. To the tunes of songs like 'Ode to Yan'an,' 'Nanniwan,' 'Red Flowers Blooming Brilliantly,' and 'Defend the Yellow River,' it depicts the cultural characteristics of Yan'an and northern Shaanxi in turn, presents the magnificent historical画卷 of the Long March, and reviews the arduous thirteen-year struggle of the CPC Central Committee here.
Light Show: Ode to Yan'an (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Among them, Yan'an's most representative historical sites, such as the Yangjialing site of the Seventh National Congress of the Communist Party of China, the Lu Xun Art Academy, the cave dwellings in Zaoyuan, the cave dwelling clusters of Yan'an University, and Qingliang Mountain, were presented in front of people through three-dimensional construction in a naked-eye 3D visual form, attracting passersby to stop, watch, and take photos.
Light Show: Nanniwan (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
This magnificent large-scale multimedia landscape light performance on Yan'an Pagoda Hill is staged on the 15,000-square-meter hillside cliff of Pagoda Hill. The performance uses the western hillside cliff of Pagoda Hill and the Yan'an Pagoda (Lingshan Temple Pagoda) as the main载体, with the riverside landscape lights of the Yan River and Nanchuan, as well as the hillside landscape lights of Pagoda Hill, Qingliang Mountain, and Fenghuang Mountain, as auxiliary performances.
Yan'an Street Night Scene (Photo by Du Wangji)
Through multimedia technology, the integration of sound and light, and a 360-degree环绕 performance with three mountains联动, it vividly depicts the cultural characteristics of Yan'an and northern Shaanxi, presenting the magnificent historical画卷 of the 25,000-li Long March. The towering and majestic Pagoda Hill, under the illumination of lights, changes into different colors, magnificent and grand.
Pagoda Hill Night Scene by the Water (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Finally, against the定格 backdrop of "Shaanxi is the root, Yan'an is the soul," the various buildings, green trees, people, cars along the riverbank, and the myriad lights in the distance appear particularly charming. The lights on the shore and the shimmering river surface complement each other, and the audience excitedly shouted: "Pagoda Hill is so beautiful!"
Pagoda Hill Scenic Area Entrance (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
On October 13, 2021, the Shanxi-Shaanxi Grand Canyon Yan'an Red Journey entered its second day. At 08:10, the team bid farewell to the hotel. Guide Zhang Yanfei led everyone to visit Yan'an Pagoda Hill and Zaoyuan. Among them, Zaoyuan had been visited before, but Pagoda Hill was the first visit in the journalist's four trips to Yan'an. At 08:40, the team first went to the Yan'an Pagoda Hill Scenic Area by the Yan River for sightseeing.
Photo at Pagoda Hill Scenic Area (Photo by Geng Heping)
"How many times in dreams I return to Yan'an, hugging Pagoda Hill with both hands," is a classic line from the poem 'Return to Yan'an' by the famous literary figure He Jingzhi. It passionately extols the sacred status of Pagoda Hill in the hearts of the Chinese people. On Pagoda Hill, historical relics and modern revolutionary relics are scattered like stars, complementing each other. The mountain is covered with green trees and blooming flowers.
Jialing Mountain Stone Carving (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Taking the scenic area shuttle bus winding along the mountain road, they soon arrived at the foot of the pagoda on top of Pagoda Hill. Zhang Yanfei introduced that Yan'an Pagoda Hill (also known as Jialing Mountain) is located in Yan'an City, Shaanxi Province, by the Yan River. It is a national key protected unit, built in the Tang Dynasty, 44 meters high, with nine floors, an octagonal brick pagoda. Inside the pagoda, there are spiral stairs to ascend to the top.
Yan'an Cultural Plaza (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
In the Pagoda Hill Scenic Area, perhaps for the protection of cultural relics, climbing the pagoda is no longer allowed. But even without climbing the pagoda, since this location is at a high vantage point, the entire cityscape of Yan'an can still be taken in at a glance. Especially the Yan'an Cultural and Art Center Plaza, which we saw last night with its beautiful night scenery of music fountains, its overall layout was clearly visible. And the unique, giant red flower sculpture in the center of the square still appeared so striking.
Overlooking the Yan River (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Now, the mountain has been developed into Pagoda Hill Park, with lush forests and a beautiful environment. Strolling here, one can also see a large bell cast during the Ming Dynasty's Chongzhen period next to the pagoda. Its sound can resound throughout the city. When the CPC Central Committee was in Yan'an, this bell was used for alarms. In addition, there are over 260 meters of cliff carvings and a forest of steles on the mountain. The carved cliff faces are neat and the rock intact, making it a rare stone carving art.
Big Bell on Pagoda Hill (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
On the mountain, there are also historical sites such as Fanggong Well, Zhaixing Tower, Dongyue Temple, Jialing Academy, and Beacon Tower. Yan'an prefect Gu Yanshou of the Ming Dynasty wrote a poem: "Jialing叠叠椅晴空, 景色都归西照中. 塔影例分深树绿, 花枝低映碧流红. 幽僧栖迹烟霞坞, 野鸟飞归锦绣从." On the door lintels of the two arched gates at the bottom of the pagoda, the inscriptions '高超碧落' (Soaring Above the Blue) and '俯视红尘' (Looking Down on the Mortal World) are carved respectively.
Photo at the Foot of the Pagoda (Photo by Guo Sanmei)
Pagoda Hill is an important symbol and emblem of the revolutionary sacred site Yan'an. After the CPC Central Committee stationed in Yan'an, this ancient pagoda became the symbol and emblem of the revolutionary sacred site. After the founding of the People's Republic, the State Council included Yan'an Pagoda in the first batch of national key cultural relics protection units, the Yan'an Revolutionary Site. The front of the 2-yuan note of the second set of renminbi issued in 1953 features 'Yan'an Pagoda Hill.' The core pattern of the Order of Independence and Freedom awarded by the People's Republic of China in 1955 is Pagoda Hill.
Photo at Pagoda Hill (Photo by Wang Jue)
It can be said that Yan'an Pagoda Hill integrates natural scenery, cultural landscape, historical relics, and revolutionary sites. It is also a must-visit place when touring Yan'an. However, due to various reasons, the journalist had never visited this site on previous trips to Yan'an, a regret that was finally圆满弥补 by the Yan'an red journey with the Shanxi-Shaanxi Grand Canyon team.
Group Photo at Pagoda Hill (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The Shanxi-Shaanxi Grand Canyon team concluded their sightseeing at Pagoda Hill and proceeded to the second stop of the day in Yan'an, the Zaoyuan Revolutionary Site Memorial, located about 8 kilometers northwest of Yan'an city. Yan'an Zaoyuan, also known as Yanyuan, was originally a landlord's estate. After the CPC Central Committee stationed in Yan'an, it became the location of the Secretariat of the CPC Central Committee from October 1943 to March 1947, covering an area of over 540,000 square meters. The garden is lush with trees, green grass, and blooming flowers, with the 'Happiness Canal' running through it.
Entering Zaoyuan (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The journalist first visited Yan'an Zaoyuan on October 4, 2007. Soon after entering the garden, seeing the statue of the five great leaders—Mao Zedong, Zhu De, Liu Shaoqi, Zhou Enlai, and Ren Bishi—standing in the center immediately evoked美好回忆 in the journalist. The team also took a group photo here first.
Group Photo in Front of Zaoyuan Statue (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Strolling in the courtyard of Zaoyuan, a building of the Central Secretariat's small meeting hall came into view. Zhang Yanfei said that it was here that the decision for Mao Zedong to go to Chongqing for negotiations, made by the Political Bureau of the CPC Central Committee, was carried out. On the slope behind, there are the former residences of central leaders such as Mao Zedong, Zhu De, Liu Shaoqi, Zhou Enlai, Ren Bishi, and Zhang Wentian. At the foot of the western hill in the back ravine are the place where Mao Zedong delivered 'Serve the People' and the site of the Central Social Affairs Department.
Meeting Hall of the Central Secretariat (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
From 1944 to March 1947, the CPC Central Committee's Secretariat moved here from Yangjialing. During their stay here, the Central Secretariat continued to lead the whole party in rectification movements and the Great Production Campaign by the liberated area military and civilians, prepared for the Seventh National Congress of the Communist Party of China, led the military and civilians nationwide to achieve the final victory in the War of Resistance Against Japan, and led the people nationwide in a tit-for-tat struggle against the diehard Kuomintang faction for democratic unity and peaceful nation-building, making full preparations to smash the Kuomintang reactionaries' all-out civil war.
Photo at Zaoyuan (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
During his stay in Zaoyuan, Comrade Mao Zedong wrote many important articles guiding the Chinese revolution, such as 'Some Questions Concerning Methods of Leadership,' 'Carry Out the Campaign for Rent Reduction, Production, and Supporting the Government and Cherishing the People in the Base Areas,' 'Comment on the Eleventh Plenum of the Kuomintang Central Executive Committee and the Third Session of the Third National People's Political Council,' 'Organize the People,' 'Learn Economic Work within Two or Three Years,' and 'Study and the Current Situation.' Among these, 28 were included in the 'Selected Works of Mao Zedong.'
Former Site of the Central Confidential Bureau (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
During this period, many major events also occurred in Zaoyuan. In November 1944, Mao Zedong met here with Patrick Hurley, the personal representative of U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt and later U.S. Ambassador to China, and held talks for two days and two nights, signing a five-point proposal from the Communist Party of China to the National Government regarding the establishment of a coalition government.
Pavilion in Front of Mao Zedong's Former Residence (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
In December 1944, Mao Zedong met with Colonel David D. Barrett at his residence, forcefully refuting the Kuomintang's three-point proposal. In August of the following year, he set out from here to Chongqing for negotiations with Chiang Kai-shek. In 1943, during the Great Production Campaign in the liberated areas, Zaoyuan held a military-civilian spinning competition, and both Zhou Enlai and Ren Bishi were rated as 'spinning experts.'
Zaoyuan Historical Photo Exhibition (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
In August 1945, Mao Zedong and Zhou Enlai went to Chongqing for negotiations, with Liu Shaoqi acting as Chairman of the CPC Central Committee, presiding over central work. On September 15, Liu Shaoqi convened a meeting with leading comrades including Zhu De, Peng Dehuai, Ren Bishi, Chen Yun, and Ye Jianying to discuss the Northeast issue, deciding to establish the CPC Central Committee Northeast Bureau with Peng Zhen as secretary, and dispatch members of the Political Bureau of the CPC Central Committee—Peng Zhen, Chen Yun, Gao Gang, and Zhang Wentian—along with over one-fourth of the full and alternate members of the Central Committee, leading 20,000 cadres and 100,000 troops to march into the Northeast.
A Corner of Zaoyuan Courtyard (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
On September 19, 1945, after consulting Chairman Mao Zedong, Liu Shaoqi and Zhu De drafted an inner-party directive on the strategic policy of 'Developing to the North, Defending to the South,' which effectively supported the negotiation struggle in Chongqing and played an important role in shortening the battle lines, concentrating forces, and developing and consolidating the Northeast base. In February 1947, with the introduction of Ye Jianying, Liu Shaoqi and Wang Guangmei were married here.
Zaoyuan Tour Map (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
On September 8, 1944, Mao Zedong attended the memorial meeting for martyr Zhang Side at the foot of the western hill in the back ravine of Zaoyuan, personally wrote the elegy: 'Pay tribute to Comrade Zhang Side, who died for the interests of the people!' and delivered an important speech, 'Serve the People.' After the CPC Central Committee evacuated Yan'an in 1947, the Kuomintang army inflicted devastating damage on Yan'an, and Zaoyuan was also severely damaged. After 1953, the people's government gradually restored it according to its original appearance.
Photo from the First Visit to Zaoyuan (Photo by Cao Qun)
With great reverence, the team carefully savored and visited many attractions in Zaoyuan, including the small meeting hall of the Central Secretariat, the former residences of Mao Zedong, Zhou Enlai, Liu Shaoqi, Zhu De, Ren Bishi, Zhang Wentian, and Peng Dehuai, the 'Serve the People' speaking platform, the Central Medical Office, and the Happiness Canal. They received a profound and vivid education in patriotism. (Text and photos by Feng Ganyong)
