Shaanxi Travel: Ganquan Yucha Grand Canyon and Surrounding Areas (Photos)
The Shanxi-Shaanxi Grand Canyon team, jointly organized by Beijing Target Action Cultural Tourism and the Beidahuang Educated Youth Enjoy Retirement Tourism Federation, after successfully concluding their red tour in Yan'an, headed to the final stop in Shaanxi, embarking on a sightseeing trip centered on the Ganquan Yucha Grand Canyon, supplemented by some surrounding attractions.
Scenery along the way (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Ganquan County is located in the hilly and gully region of the northern Shaanxi Loess Plateau, in the central part of Yan'an City, Shaanxi Province. It gets its name from a spring at the foot of Shenlin Mountain, five kilometers southwest of the county seat, and is traditionally known as the "Land of Fine Water." It has historical records dating back to the Western Zhou Dynasty, with Diao Yin County established in the Qin Dynasty, Linzhen County in the early Northern Wei Dynasty, Fulu County in the first year of the Wude era of the Tang Dynasty, and renamed Ganquan County in the first year of the Tianbao era.
Remains of the Qin Straight Road (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
In addition to the recently discovered natural wonder of the Yucha Grand Canyon, Ganquan, due to its long history, also boasts historical sites such as the remains of the Qin Straight Road, the "Meishui Spring" named by Emperor Yang of Sui, the Tang Dynasty White Deer Temple, a thousand-year-old ginkgo tree, and ancient tombs from the Song Dynasty. There are also red historical sites like the former site of the Shaanxi-Gansu Border Soviet Government and Mao Zedong's former residence. In recent years, Ganquan has attracted tourists from all directions.
Group photo at Xintianyou Hotel (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
At 14:00 on October 13, 2021, the reporter set off from Yan'an with the team. After an hour and a half drive, they arrived at the Xintianyou Cave Hotel in Ganquan, where they would stay. This hotel was the only one where the team stayed for two consecutive nights. Everyone felt a sense of home. On the railing of the second floor, members from eight groups displayed their group flags and took a group photo as a souvenir.
Xianglin Temple Archway (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Song Qidong, the tour guide for this trip, was a knowledgeable, hospitable, and insightful young man with a keen interest in photography. At 16:30, after a brief rest at the hotel, Song Qidong led everyone to the nearby Xianglin Temple for the first scenic spot visit in Ganquan.
Xianglin Grand Stage (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
At the foot of Xianglin Temple Mountain, facing the temple's stone archway, was the Xianglin Grand Stage. The stage directly faced the gray stone archway of Xianglin Temple, with three golden characters "香林寺" (Xianglin Temple) on a light blue background in the center, very eye-catching.
Group photo before climbing the temple (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
From the foot of the mountain, looking through the archway at the steep, almost vertical stone steps leading to the temple at the top, everyone couldn't help but sigh. However, this was an excellent spot for a group photo.
Steep stone steps (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The uneven stone steps formed a layout that neither blocked each other's images nor felt unnatural, so the comrades happily took a large group photo before climbing Xianglin Temple.
Photo taken during the climb (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Then, Song Qidong began to encourage everyone and led them up the stone steps. One of the team leaders, Zou Xiaofei, silently counted the steps. After reaching the top, he told the reporter that starting from the first step at the foot of the mountain through the stone archway, there were a total of 448 stone steps to the summit.
Photo taken at Xianglin Temple (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
During the climb, Song Qidong explained that Xianglin Temple, also known as Hongmen Temple, is located on a unique peak north of Xianglin Temple Ping Village, Xia Siwan Town, 40 kilometers northwest of Ganquan County. According to the "Yan'an Prefecture Chronicles," Xianglin Temple was first built in the second year of the Kaiyuan era of Emperor Xuanzong of Tang, named for the fragrant cypress trees covering the mountain. The temple is built against the mountain, with rugged terrain and dense ancient cypress trees.
Overlooking the scenery below the temple (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
After more than ten minutes of hard work, the reporter and the team finally reached the location of the temple. As the saying goes: "Endless scenic beauty is found on the most dangerous peaks," and it was true. Looking down from the temple, the Luo River winding around, vast fertile fields, and the ancient Fuzheng City standing on the opposite bank, the full view of the Ganquan countryside in northern Shaanxi unfolded before their eyes.
A corner of the Xianglin Temple hall (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Wandering around the Xianglin Temple on the mountaintop, they could see that the Tang Dynasty temple had been destroyed, with ruins scattered throughout the mountain, and tiles and broken stones everywhere. The existing temple was rebuilt during the Chenghua era of the Ming Dynasty and the Daoguang era of the Qing Dynasty. Built around the mountain are the True Martial Ancestor Hall, the Jade Emperor Temple, the Nine Heavens Mysterious Lady Hall, the Guanyin Pavilion, the Dragon King Temple, etc.
Eaves of the Xianglin Temple hall (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Xiao Song told the reporter that on the steep cliffs on the west side of Xianglin Temple, there were dense grottoes, over 70 in number, all interconnected. In 2007, the villagers of Xia Siwan raised funds, opened roads, erected the mountain gate, built the divine path, constructed the Bell Tower, Drum Tower, and set up a cultural stele corridor.
Climbing the ancient cliff dwellings (Photo by Song Qidong)
There is also a cliff dwelling excavated in the Song Dynasty, originally built by locals to avoid bandits. It has three levels. Entering through a two-meter-high small cave, it connects left and right, front and back. Then, through a skylight-like small cave, you reach the second level. There are over 50 rooms in total. The reporter felt a bit tired after reaching the mountaintop and did not continue. However, fellow team members Ming Ming and Zhao Qingbo, encouraged and led by Song Qidong, resolutely went to explore, and Xiao Song used his phone to record the steepness of their climb.
Joyful Ansai Waist Drum Dance (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
At 17:32, the group members came down from Xianglin Temple, successfully concluding their visit to the first scenic spot in Ganquan, and returned to the Xintianyou Cave Hotel. That evening, a bonfire was lit in the hotel courtyard, and local villagers joined the comrades from the original Heilongjiang Production and Construction Corps for a lively and joyful gathering. During the self-entertainment, the locals performed the passionate Ansai Waist Drum Dance, which was warmly received. The applause and cheers echoed in the night sky.
Ganquan Grand Canyon Scenery (Photo by Song Qidong)
On October 14, 2021, the Shanxi-Shaanxi Grand Canyon team trip entered its seventh day. At 10:18, the team arrived at the Ganquan Grand Canyon Scenic Area and took a scenic shuttle bus to explore the natural wonder known as China's "Antelope Valley," the Ganquan Grand Canyon. This is a unique geological landscape in northern Shaanxi.
Yucha Grand Canyon Scenery (Photo by Song Qidong)
On the way, Song Qidong explained that the Ganquan Grand Canyon is a canyon located in Yucha Village, Ganquan County, Yan'an City, Shaanxi Province. Hundreds of millions of years ago, a strong earthquake in northern Shaanxi split a loess mountain, creating a large crack. Over hundreds of years of rainwater erosion, it gradually formed this canyon. Due to its magical geological landform, it is known as China's "Antelope Valley."
Entering Longba Valley (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The Ganquan Yucha Grand Canyon consists of scenic spots such as Huashu Valley, Huabao Valley, Longba Valley, Mudan Valley, and Yixiantian (Thread of Sky). Among them, Huashu Valley has the most outstanding scenery. However, due to continuous rain, some parts of the scenic area had just selectively reopened on October 13, the day before, so it was fortunate to visit today. Today, we will visit three attractions: Longba Valley, Mudan Valley, and Yixiantian.
Light and lines in Longba Valley (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
After a 20-minute shuttle ride, the team first arrived at Longba Valley scenic spot. At a waiting station by the roadside, guide Song Qidong pointed to many colorful rain boots on the ground and told everyone to change into the right size and follow him into the scenic area.
Photo taken at Longba Valley (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
After changing into rain boots, the reporter walked at the front of the team, following a dirt road through a drainage ditch into a winding canyon, wading through ankle-deep rainwater slowly. As they went deeper and looked around, wow! The miraculous wonders of nature gradually came into view.
Thick moss inside the valley (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Longba Valley is 2.5 kilometers long, one of the longer canyons. Only the first 800 meters have been developed, mainly for general tourists to visit and photograph, characterized by the smooth beauty of textures and lines. The next 800 meters are for exploration, safe only for those with good legs.
Photographing the wonders of Longba Valley (Photo by Wang Jue)
Entering Longba Valley, the space was narrow, with intertwined and winding rock formations, creating a unique charm. Although not the usual dreamlike natural beauty, it felt like the scenery changed with every step, as each turn brought a sense of "another village in the dark."
Layered lines (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Following the beautifully lined rock walls of Longba Valley, the deeper they went, the more beautiful the scenery became, indescribable in words. They just quietly admired, accompanied by the sound of splashing water and exclamations of amazement from others. The tourists' excitement and joy were evident.
Photo taken at Longba Valley (Photo by Zou Xiaofei)
Song Qidong mentioned that the weather is a crucial factor for viewing. On sunny days, sunlight shines through narrow cracks onto the strangely complex rocks, creating layers of wavy lines and reflecting colorful, enchanting colors on the rock walls.
Photo at Ganquan Grand Canyon (Photo by Tang Baoqin)
But nature always has changes; the weather is unpredictable. So, the Ganquan Grand Canyon's colors change with different times and angles of light, creating a dreamlike world of light and shadow that is endlessly beautiful.
Autumn scenery in the canyon (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Exiting Longba Valley, they followed the ascending stone steps to a mountain path on the hillside, strolling along. Red leaves caught their eyes, and the autumn scenery was particularly pleasing.
Photo after exiting Longba Valley (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Back at the shuttle stop, they took off the rain boots and boarded a special vehicle to the next two spots: Mudan Valley and Yixiantian. Since the two spots were diagonally opposite each other across the road, they shared a single stop.
Entering Mudan Valley (Photo by Song Qidong)
Mudan Valley is located in Nanhe Village of Yucha Gully. Compared to Longba Valley, this area is not very large. Song Qidong said that because the hilltop is full of wild peony trees, it's called Mudan Valley (Peony Valley). Also, because the left side of the canyon entrance resembles a beautiful woman, some call it Beauty Valley. The canyon is 300 meters long and known for its unique shapes.
Ganquan Grand Canyon Scenery (Photo by Song Qidong)
Interestingly, guide Song Qidong was not very impressed with many of his photos taken at Mudan Valley, but he was particularly proud of one image: a vivid "plucked pig head" shaped landscape. He told the reporter, "So far, only I have been able to capture this..."
Pig head landscape in Mudan Valley (Photo by Song Qidong)
The reporter looked at the image; it was a lifelike pig head shape, very vivid. However, in a place called "Peony Valley," associated with beautiful praise like "Cleopatra," it was not only incongruous but completely irrelevant. At the same time, this reflected the wonderful aspect of nature's wonders.
Entering Yixiantian Canyon (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
After finishing the tour of Mudan Valley, they returned to the waiting station, crossed the road and a small bridge, and arrived at the Yixiantian Canyon. It is essentially a narrow ground fissure. Inside, one wall was covered with moss, while the other was only a yellowish stone wall. The canyon mouth was triangular, and the further in, the narrower it became...
Looking up at the sky from inside (Photo by Song Qidong)
With the end of the last scenic spot Yixiantian, the day's trip to the Ganquan Grand Canyon concluded successfully. On the way back, the reporter asked Song Qidong how the Ganquan Yucha Grand Canyon was discovered. Song Qidong said that many years ago, local villagers had already found the unique canyon landscape near them, but due to its remote location, poor transportation, and lack of information, they didn't take it seriously. Thus, the Yucha Grand Canyon remained isolated and unknown.
A different world (Photo by Song Qidong)
It wasn't until 2017 that a geology enthusiast from Beijing, while photographing the Shaanxi loess plateau landscape, accidentally discovered it and spread the word. Since then, photographers and tourists have been coming in droves. It is said that everyone who has seen the Shaanxi Ganquan Yucha Grand Canyon agrees that it rivals the world-famous Antelope Canyon in the United States. In terms of the canyon's colorful scenery, the two are similar but each has its merits. However, the difference is that the sandstone in the American Antelope Canyon is mostly red, while the colors of the Ganquan Yucha Grand Canyon are more vivid, mysterious, and fantastic.
Red scenic spot sign (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
In addition to the magical natural landscape of the Yucha Grand Canyon, Ganquan also has many red tourism attractions. At 15:00 that day, the Shanxi-Shaanxi Grand Canyon team visited two red historical sites in Ganquan: the former site of the Shaanxi-Gansu Border Soviet Government and Mao Zedong's former residence.
Visiting the Soviet site (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
In April 1935, to crush the second "encirclement and suppression" campaign by the Kuomintang against the Shaanxi-Gansu border base area, open up new base areas, and expand the Soviet area, the party, government, and military organs of the Shaanxi-Gansu border moved from Liyuanbao to Yanjiawan and other places in Luohechuan. In late May, they moved from Yanjiawan to villages such as Xia Siwan, Yizigou, and Hejiawan. Thus, Luosanchuan became the leadership center, command center, and solid rear base of the Shaanxi-Gansu border revolutionary base.
Group photo at the former Soviet government site (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
In the early years, Ganquan Zhaiziwan had complex terrain, hidden and rugged roads, and dense forests. The military commission and government offices were located on two hillsides, three to four li apart. There was a path connecting the two courtyard groups in the forest. The Soviet government and military commission sites preserved the government and military commission offices, as well as Liu Zhidan's former residence and bedrooms.
Heading to Xia Siwan Town (Photo by Yang Jianmin)
After visiting the former Soviet government site, the team went to Mao Zedong's former residence, not far away. From November 2 to 5, 1935, Mao Zedong led the central organs and leaders of the Shaanxi-Gansu detachment to Xia Siwan Town, staying at Bai Yunde's house. There, a meeting of the Political Bureau of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of China was held.
Mao Zedong's former residence (Photo by Gao Lin)
At the meeting, reports on the "purge" issue in northern Shaanxi were heard from the Shaanxi-Gansu-Jin Provincial Committee. The Central Committee made a decisive decision to have the Central Security Bureau take over the Northwest Security Bureau and send Wang Shoudao, Liu Xiangcheng, Jia Tuofu, and others with a radio station to quickly go to Wayaobao. Mao Zedong made the important instruction: "Spare the knife, stop arrests."
Photo at Mao Zedong's former residence (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Both of these red scenic sites are now well-preserved and have become educational bases for passing on the red gene in Ganquan County. Visiting them, through the original style and related documents, people not only learned and reviewed a piece of red history but also received a valuable patriotic education.
Looking up at Yongning Mountain Ancient Fortress (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
On October 15, 2021, at 09:00, the Shanxi-Shaanxi Grand Canyon trip entered its eighth day, which was also the final itinerary in Shaanxi. Guide Song Qidong led the team from Ganquan to the Yongning Mountain Ancient Fortress by the Luo River in Zhidan County for sightseeing. Since the fortress was temporarily closed, they could only look up from below to admire the ancient fort perched on the mountain peak.
By the Luo River (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The bus crossed a bridge over the Luo River and stopped right across from the Yongning Mountain Ancient Fortress. Walking along the riverbank, they could view the sheer cliffs of the architectural complex from various angles. The riverside scenery was rich in autumn colors. Although they couldn't climb up for a close look, taking in the view from the foot of the mountain was also a good choice.
Autumn feeling by the Luo River (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Song Qidong explained that Yongning Mountain, also known as Dashi Lou Mountain, stands tall like a tower reaching the sky, so ancient people called it Shiloutai Mountain Fortress. The fortress, west of the Luo River, is built on the top of Shilou Tai Mountain, with Xiaoshi Lou Tai Mountain to the north. It is 1312 meters above sea level, running east-west, 2.2 kilometers long and 1.5 kilometers wide, entirely made of red sandstone. With its majestic cliffs and strategic location, it has always been a battleground for military strategists. It was already opened as a defensive fortress in the Song Dynasty.
Photo at Yongning Ancient Fortress (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The fortress has three levels: upper, middle, and lower. The upper level stands boldly on the protruding mountaintop, the middle level tilts slightly outward and is very steep, and the lower level reaches the Luo River for water supply, accommodating up to a thousand people. Later generations relied on its natural defense to build the fortress to avoid wars. The natives believed it would bring "eternal peace" and thus named it Yongning Mountain.
A corner of the Yongning Ancient Fortress (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Yongning Mountain is also a mountain that witnessed history, recording the spark of the northern Shaanxi revolution. After the failure of the Weihua Uprising, Liu Zhidan secretly returned to Bao'an County. Knowing the strategic importance of Yongning Fortress, in 1928 he secretly established the first party branch in Bao'an County—the Yongning Mountain Party Branch of the Communist Party of China—organizing the masses to resist grain and taxes, demanding that the government reduce taxes and relieve the victims, thus beginning the "Red Uprising."
Cliff carvings at Yongning Ancient Fortress (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Here, Liu Zhidan mobilized the masses, gained the position of county militia commander, and transformed the militia into an armed force under the control of the Communist Party. In 1930, he secretly organized a team of over 20 people in Yongning Mountain, raided the militia in Taibai Town, Gansu Province, capturing over 60 guns and more than 10 mules and horses. From then on, Liu Zhidan led this team operating in the Shaanxi-Gansu border, attacking cities and counties, and the revolutionary forces grew stronger. The reporter really didn't expect that an ancient mountain fortress could have such a profound history, feeling that although this spot was small, it was worth the visit.
Viewing the ancient fortress from across the river (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The team's departure from Yongning Mountain Ancient Fortress marked the end of all itineraries in Shaanxi Province for this Shanxi-Shaanxi Grand Canyon trip. At 12:46 on that day, the team left the Xintianyou Hotel in Ganquan, entered the Bao-Mao Expressway at the Ganquan West entrance, and began a new journey back to Shanxi. (Text and photos by Feng Ganyong)
