Heading West: A Self-Drive Tour of Xinjiang via Southern Shanxi, Yan'an, and Ningxia

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Located on the northwestern border of China, Xinjiang is one of the five autonomous regions for ethnic minorities and the largest provincial-level administrative region in terms of land area in China. Historically, it was an important passage on the ancient Silk Road. Here, you can find not only continuous snow-capped mountains and vast Gobi deserts but also beautiful grasslands and rich ethnic minority customs. In recent years, tourism in Xinjiang has become increasingly popular. This year, we chose Xinjiang as our travel destination. Due to Xinjiang's vast territory, using public transportation would be time-consuming and inflexible for planning our route, so we decided to drive there ourselves.

Starting from Tianjin, we passed through Hebei, Southern Shanxi, Northern Shaanxi, Ningxia, and the Hexi Corridor before entering Hami in Xinjiang. We first explored the Altay region and the Ili River Valley, then crossed the Tianshan Mountains via the popular Duku Highway to reach southern Xinjiang. Finally, we left Xinjiang from Ruoqiang and returned to Tianjin via Qinghai, Gannan, Southern Shaanxi, Hubei, and Henan. The total journey was 22,000 kilometers, taking three and a half months, traveling and sightseeing along the way.

The Southern Shanxi, Yan'an, and Ningxia leg lasted 11 days, covering about 2,400 kilometers. The total cost (for two people) was 4,927.16 yuan, including: transportation (fuel, highway tolls, etc.) 1,434.82 yuan, accommodation 1,172.00 yuan, tickets (including scenic area shuttles, cable cars, etc.) 1,561.00 yuan, and shopping, meals, and miscellaneous expenses 759.34 yuan.

Starting today, we set off from Tianjin heading west, embarking on our long-planned self-drive trip to Xinjiang. With plenty of time, we didn't schedule long driving hours each day. Our first destination was Handan, about 400 kilometers from Tianjin. Along the way, we passed the Zhaozhou Bridge in Zhao County, Hebei Province. I first learned about the Zhaozhou Bridge from my elementary school textbook nearly fifty years ago, so we decided to see this ancient stone arch bridge before heading to Handan.

We departed at 9 a.m., took the Jinshi Expressway, and arrived at the Zhaozhou Bridge scenic area at noon.

The Zhaozhou Bridge is a stone arch bridge located over the Xiao River south of Zhao County, Shijiazhuang, Hebei Province. It is named after the ancient name of Zhao County, Zhaozhou. Locals call it the "Great Stone Bridge" to distinguish it from the small Yongtong Bridge outside the west gate of the city. The Zhaozhou Bridge was built during the Sui Dynasty, designed and constructed by the master craftsman Li Chun. Later, Emperor Zhezong of Song bestowed the name "Anji Bridge," which became its official name. The Zhaozhou Bridge holds an important place in the history of Chinese bridge construction and has had a profound influence on bridge architecture worldwide. It is the oldest, largest-span, and best-preserved single-arch open-shoulder stone arch bridge in the world. Its construction techniques are unique, pioneering the open-shoulder arch structure in world bridge history, giving it high scientific research value. The bridge's decorative carvings are exquisite, the carving technique vigorous and powerful, and the artistic style novel and bold, reflecting the dignified, rigorous, and elegant stone carving style of the Sui Dynasty, with high artistic value.

After visiting the Zhaozhou Bridge, we continued onto the Beijing-Hong Kong-Macao Expressway and arrived in Handan, our destination for the day, two hours later.

Handan, Hebei, has a long history and is a national historical and cultural city. The idiom "Learn to Walk in Handan" originated here. After checking into our hotel, we walked to the Xuebu Bridge, not far from the hotel.

The Xuebu Bridge is located on the northern section of Chengli Street in Handan city, spanning the Qin River. It was a key transportation hub connecting the north and south of the ancient city, called "the key to the three auxiliary regions." Built in the 45th year of the Wanli era of the Ming Dynasty (1617), it is a seven-arch stone bridge with three large arches and four small arches. It is 8 meters high, 32 meters long, and 9 meters wide, with 19 balustrade panels on each side and 18 balusters between the panels. The panels and balusters are carved with historical figures and exquisite animals like lions and monkeys.

Both sides of the Xuebu Bridge are lined with various snacks, and many Handan residents come to the bridge area to eat and stroll. We also had dinner here and then returned to the hotel to rest.

Today's destination was Jincheng, Shanxi Province, 280 kilometers away. Fifteen kilometers from Jincheng city, there is the Jade Emperor Temple Color Sculpture and Mural Museum, which houses exquisite colored clay sculptures. We decided to visit the Jade Emperor Temple first to see the sculptures.

We departed shortly after 9 a.m., drove on the expressway for over three hours, and arrived in Zezhou County, Jincheng. Along the roadside, we spotted a large-scale Guandi Temple and decided to visit it first.

The Fucheng Village Guandi Temple is located in Fucheng Village, Jincun Town, Zezhou County, Jincheng, Shanxi Province, about 10 kilometers north of the county seat. It is a massive complex consisting of upper, lower, outer, middle, and front courtyards, covering dozens of acres. Its construction date is unknown, but it was renovated in the 21st year of the Qianlong era (1756) and the 47th year of the Qianlong era (1782) of the Qing Dynasty. Along the central axis are the mountain gate, stage, Guandi Hall, and Sanyi Hall, with corridors, bell and drum towers, and monk buildings on the west side. The main hall is Guandi Hall, three bays wide and eight rafters deep, with a single-eave overhanging gable roof. Guandi Hall and Sanyi Hall are well preserved, with prominent stone and wood carvings of fine craftsmanship, possessing high historical and artistic value.

[Insert image: Fucheng Village Guandi Temple]

After visiting the Guandi Temple, the Jade Emperor Temple was nearby.

The Jade Emperor Temple is located in Fucheng Village, Jincun Town, Zezhou County, Jincheng, Shanxi Province. Its construction date is unknown. According to a Ming Dynasty stele inscription in the temple: "During the Sui Dynasty, residents gathered on the northern hill and built a temple with three rooms, inside which were painted the Three Pure Ones." In the 9th year of the Xining era of the Northern Song Dynasty (1076), it was rebuilt on the original site and named "Jade Emperor Travel Palace." In the 7th year of the Taihe era of the Jin Dynasty (1207), most of the temple collapsed, and local people raised funds to repair it. During the Zhenyou era of the Jin Dynasty (1214-1216), it was partially destroyed by war. It was rebuilt in the 1st year of the Zhiyuan era of the Yuan Dynasty (1335), and repeatedly repaired during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, reaching its present scale.

The Jade Emperor Temple faces south, with a three-courtyard layout in a rectangular plan, covering an area of 3,520 square meters. The main buildings include the mountain gate, ceremonial gate, Chengtang Hall, offering pavilion, Jade Emperor Hall, east and west side halls, the Twenty-Eight Mansions Hall, the Twelve Earthly Branches Hall, the Thirteen Shining Stars Hall, Guandi Hall, and Silkworm Goddess Hall, forming a relatively large ancient architectural complex. The existing main building, Jade Emperor Hall, was built in the Song Dynasty; the Tangdi Hall was built in the Jin Dynasty; the rear left and right towers and east and west side rooms were built in the Yuan Dynasty; the rest were built in the Ming and Qing Dynasties.

The color sculptures from the Song, Jin, and Yuan Dynasties preserved in the Jade Emperor Temple, especially the colored clay sculptures in the Twenty-Eight Mansions Hall, represent the highest achievement of ancient Chinese sculpture art. They not only had a significant impact on ancient sculpture after the Yuan Dynasty but are also of great importance to the study and development of modern sculpture art. The more than 260 clay sculptures of Taoist deities form a complete system, artistically presenting the entire pantheon of Chinese Taoist gods. Among the ancient sculpture remains discovered nationwide, this is a unique example, reflecting the confluence of Chinese and Western sculpture art. It is a peculiar and marvelous treasure trove of Taoist art with extremely high historical and ornamental value.

Leaving the Jade Emperor Temple, it was still early, so we went to the Jincheng Museum.

The Jincheng Museum is located at the northwest corner of the intersection of Fengtai East Street and Wenbo Road in Jincheng, Shanxi Province. It covers an area of 1.6 hectares, with a building area of 10,282 square meters, and is a local comprehensive history museum. The museum houses over 20,000 cultural relics, including more than 200 items of grade three and above. The most locally characteristic collections are pottery figurines from various dynasties and glazed figurines and burial objects from the Ming and Qing Dynasties.

After visiting the museum, we returned to the hotel to rest.

Today, we planned to visit the Royal Prime Minister's Mansion scenic area in Yangcheng County, Jincheng. We left shortly after 9 a.m. and arrived at the parking lot an hour later.

The Royal Prime Minister's Mansion is located in Beiliu Town, Yangcheng County, Jincheng, Shanxi Province. It was the residence of Chen Tingjing, a renowned prime minister of the Qing Dynasty, who served as a lecturer to Emperor Kangxi, Grand Secretary of the Wenyuan Library, and minister of four ministries (Personnel, Revenue, Justice, and Works). He was Emperor Kangxi's teacher and the chief editor of the Kangxi Dictionary. The mansion consists of an inner city, outer city, and Ziyunqian, with a scenic area covering over 100,000 square meters. The buildings are constructed according to the terrain, with multi-layered courtyards and pavilions arranged in a disorderly but harmonious manner. The Imperial Calligraphy Tower is resplendent, Zhongdaozhuang is majestic, Douju Residence is a continuous complex of courtyards, the Heshan Tower is steep and imposing, and the Hidden Soldier Caves are uniquely layered. It is a rare castle-style official residence complex from the Ming and Qing Dynasties, praised by experts as "the residence of the number one cultural clan in northern China."

After touring the Royal Prime Minister's Mansion, it was still early, so we continued to the Yunqiu Mountain scenic area.

We arrived at the scenic area yesterday after 4 p.m. and stayed in a nearby guesthouse. After breakfast today, we began our exploration of Yunqiu Mountain.

Yunqiu Mountain is located in Guanwangmiao Township, Xiangning County, Linfen, Shanxi Province, at the intersection of the Lüliang Mountains and the Fenwei Graben. The scenic area features a strikingly realistic human-shaped mountain, a rich variety of plant species, and unique and magical natural landscapes. The historical and cultural heritage here is profound. According to legend, this was where Tang Yao, Yu Shun, and Xia Yu observed celestial phenomena and measured time, and the "Zhonghe Culture" took root and spread here.

Entering the scenic area, we took a sightseeing bus to the Ta'erpo Ancient Village.

Ta'erpo Ancient Village, originally named Ta'erpo, has a history of over 2,500 years. It is said that Laozi (Li Er) once stayed here during his travels, hence the name. Later, Taoists heard of this place and found it an ideal spot for cultivation, so they came to practice in the nearby mountains and lived alongside local villagers, gradually forming a village.

Our main purpose for visiting Yunqiu Mountain was to see the Yunqiu Mountain Ice Cave Group. After a brief tour of Ta'erpo, we headed to the ice caves nearby.

The Yunqiu Mountain Ice Cave Group is hidden deep in the mountains of Xiangning County, Linfen, Shanxi Province, and is one of the three major ice cave wonders in the world. The entire group consists of 11 cave chambers, five of which are currently open. The caves are interconnected and winding, with the widest point reaching 12 meters and the highest point 15 meters. The walls are covered in ice, and at every few steps, there are ice pillars, ice stalagmites, ice stalactites, and ice flowers distributed throughout the space. Large and small icicles are crystal clear, presenting a dreamlike scene under colorful lights. According to research, the ice cave group was formed during the Quaternary Ice Age, over 3 million years ago. The cause of the cave formation remains unsolved, and the scenery inside is breathtakingly beautiful. Even in the scorching summer, the ice cave is bitterly cold.

The ice cave was extremely cold; even wearing thermal suits, we stayed only about half an hour. Emerging from the ice cave, we returned to the guesthouse. Since it was still early, we decided to continue to Hongtong County.

Today's first destination was the Guangsheng Temple to see its glazed pagoda and the well-preserved Yuan Dynasty murals in the Water God Temple.

Guangsheng Temple is located at the foot of Mount Huo, 17 kilometers northeast of Hongtong County, Shanxi Province. It was first built in the 1st year of the Jianhe era of the Eastern Han Dynasty (147 AD), originally named Julusi Temple, also known as Yuwang Pagoda Courtyard. It was renamed Guangsheng Temple in the Tang Dynasty. The main buildings are divided into three parts: the Upper Temple, Lower Temple, and Water God Temple. The Upper Temple sits atop Mount Huo, surrounded by verdant cypress trees, with ancient pagodas towering and glazed components gleaming. The Lower Temple is at the foot of Mount Huo, built along the undulating terrain, staggered and layered. The Water God Temple is located west of the Lower Temple, separated only by a wall. The architectural complex of Guangsheng Temple is laid out rigorously with unique designs, famous for its long history and grand scale, and even more renowned for its dazzling Flying Rainbow Pagoda, the unparalleled Zhao City Golden Tripitaka, and the artistic gems of Yuan Dynasty opera murals.

We first took an electric cart to the Upper Temple.

Entering the gate of Guangsheng Temple, the exquisite glazed pagoda stands towering into the clouds. The pagoda was first built in the Han Dynasty and has been repeatedly renovated. It is made of blue bricks, with 13 octagonal stories. From bottom to top, the height and width gradually decrease, forming a beautiful cone shape.

Descending the stone steps, not far from the mountain foot, is the Water God Temple.

The Water God Temple is a Yuan Dynasty structure. The Mingying King Hall is its main building, and the interior walls are covered with well-preserved Yuan Dynasty murals. Compared to the Yongle Palace murals, the Water God Temple murals are more vivid and lifelike, featuring pavilions, palaces, markets, heavenly and earthly scenes, and human life, encompassing various aspects of society, economy, culture, folklore, architecture, and entertainment, presenting a complete picture of Yuan Dynasty life.

After visiting Guangsheng Temple, we continued to Huozhou, about 50 kilometers away.

After a short rest at the hotel, we went to the Huozhou Government Office.

The Huozhou Government Office was first built during the Sui and Tang Dynasties, with a history of 1,300 years. It consists of three major building groups: the central axis, the east auxiliary line, and the west auxiliary line. The existing structures are cultural relics from the Yuan, Ming, and Qing Dynasties, covering over 21,400 square meters, with more than 180 rooms. It is the largest existing local government office in terms of area and the only well-preserved prefectural government office in China.

Among existing ancient government offices, the Huozhou Government Office boasts the earliest construction date, the largest area, the most diverse functions, and the most imposing aura. It is not only a classic example of ancient official architecture but also a heavy carrier of China's millennium-old government office culture. Due to its complete preservation, exquisite construction, and rich cultural connotations, it is known as the "Number One Government Office Under Heaven." Exiting the government office, you can see the Huozhou Drum Tower not far away.

The Wenchang Pavilion, also known as the Drum Tower, is located in the center of Huozhou, Shanxi Province. It has a long history and is widely known, first built in the 11th year of the Wanli era of the Ming Dynasty (1583).

The Drum Tower is in a bustling area surrounded by many shops. We strolled around, had dinner, and returned to the hotel.

Today, we were going to the "Little Western Paradise," known for its completely filled suspended sculptures. After a 1.5-hour drive, we arrived.

The Little Western Paradise in Linfen, Shanxi, also called Thousand Buddha Nunnery, is located on Phoenix Mountain, one kilometer northwest of Xi County, Shanxi. It is a Buddhist temple built in the 7th year of the Chongzhen era of the Ming Dynasty (1634). Surrounded by mountains on three sides and facing a river, the nunnery is shaded by ancient trees with a clear stream flowing. The earth cliff of Phoenix Mountain is as steep as a cut, and the temple protrudes at the edge of a high platform. To reach the Little Western Paradise, one must cross the "Heavenly Bridge," climb over 240 steps, and pass through a 10-meter-long earth tunnel to enter its gate. The temple's unique shape and the many steps make one feel as if ascending to the Western Paradise of Ultimate Bliss.

The temple is divided into an upper and lower courtyard, famous for its Ming Dynasty colored suspended sculptures. The essence is preserved in the Mahavira Hall. The hall is filled with large-scale colored hanging sculptures. Besides the five main Buddhas on the altar, the walls, beams, pillars, and rafters are covered with thousands of clay figures. These sculptures are brightly colored, vivid in form, and diverse in posture. They are numerous but not chaotic, varied but not messy. The tallest are over 3 meters, while the smallest are only the size of a thumb. The figures are plump and lively, with moving depictions of inner feelings. The entire set of colored sculptures is a rare group of sculptural art in China, filling a gap in the history of Chinese Buddhist sculpture art. It can be called a museum of Chinese hanging sculpture art, with immeasurable historical and artistic value.

The full hall of suspended sculptures at the Little Western Paradise was captivating; we lingered for a long time. Since we still had to travel 140 kilometers to the Hukou Waterfall, we reluctantly left.

We arrived at the guesthouse in Hukou Town, Ji County, after 4 p.m. We originally planned to visit the scenic area the next day, but the guesthouse owner advised us to go today. We took the advice and went to the nearby Hukou Waterfall scenic area.

The Hukou Waterfall, bordering Hukou Town, Ji County, Linfen, Shanxi on the east, and Yichuan Township, Yan'an, Shaanxi on the west, is known as the "Wonder of the Yellow River." It is the only golden waterfall in the world and the second largest waterfall in China. The high mountains on both sides of the waterfall face each other. When the surging Yellow River reaches Hukou, it is squeezed by the green mountains, confined to a narrow stone valley. The 600-meter-wide torrent suddenly narrows to about 30 meters and cascades down a 20-meter-high fault cliff into a 30-meter-wide stone trough, sounding like thousands of galloping horses, roaring like thunder, and looking like a dragon stirring up waves. The noise can be heard for miles. Its shape resembles a giant teapot boiling, hence the name Hukou (Teapot Mouth) Waterfall. The scenic area centered on Hukou Waterfall integrates the Yellow River canyon, Loess Plateau, and ancient villages, showcasing the magnificent natural landscape and rich historical and cultural heritage of the Yellow River basin.

After breakfast, we departed from Hukou Town and arrived in Yan'an after a 2-hour drive. Since our hotel was next to Qingliang Mountain, we decided to walk there.

Qingliang Mountain is located on the northeast bank of the Yan River in Yan'an, also known as Taihe Mountain. It stands opposite Fenghuang Mountain and Baota Mountain across the river, forming a tripod, earning the saying "three mountains stand as a tripod, with Taihe as one." The mountain has a cool climate, beautiful environment, dense pine and cypress forests, and scattered temples and halls.

Leaving the hotel, we turned into a small street nearby and soon saw stone steps leading up the mountain. Climbing the steps, we saw several halls at the top. Approaching, we saw many people burning incense and worshiping; it turned out to be the Taihe Mountain Taoist Temple.

The religious activities on Taihe Mountain date back to the 3rd year of the Daye era of the Sui Dynasty (607 AD). Since the Sui and Tang Dynasties, Qingliang Mountain has integrated Buddhism and Taoism. Although it has experienced frequent wars and reconstructions, the incense has never ceased.

The Taihe Mountain Taoist Temple mainly enshrines the True Warrior Emperor. It now has dozens of halls of various sizes, forming a very grand complex.

After leaving the temple, we returned to the hotel for a rest. In the evening, we went to the Yan'an Erdao Street Night Market.

Erdao Street Night Market is the most famous snack street in Yan'an, where you can taste authentic Yan'an snacks.

The night market was crowded, not only with tourists but also many locals enjoying their meals. After tasting Yan'an's specialties, we strolled along the Yan River, enjoying the beautiful night scenery.

The Yucha Grand Canyon in Ganquan County, Yan'an, is known as the "Living Danxia of the World, Dream Valley of China" and is a must-visit place in Yan'an. To avoid the crowds and have a better travel experience, we chose the nearby Mao Alley Canyon, which has similar scenery.

Mao Alley Canyon is located southeast of Zhidan County, Yan'an, Shaanxi Province. It consists of six scenic spots: Qiankun Valley, Lovers Valley (Heartbreak Valley), Palace Corridor, Flowing Years Wall, Body Shaping Lane, and Another World. The canyon is 9 kilometers long, with varying widths; the narrowest part only allows one person to pass, forming multiple one-line-sky landscapes surrounded by giant dragons. The carved rock inside the canyon is a narrow gorge landform with steep curved walls, formed by long-term erosion and grinding of weak structural parts by swift water carrying sand and gravel, resulting in numerous potholes connected in three-dimensional space. The curved water lines on the valley walls are smooth and silky like brown-red chocolate, changing endlessly. The valley floor continuously changes color over time, magnificent and wonderful.

Mao Alley Canyon is a less-known attraction with few visitors. Walking through the canyon, you can take photos freely, slowly appreciate the masterpieces of flowing water, and feel the infinite charm of nature.

Tomorrow we were heading to Yinchuan. After visiting Mao Alley Canyon, we didn't return to Yan'an city but stayed in Wuqi County, about 70 kilometers away.

Departing from Wuqi County in the morning, we took the Dinghan Expressway and Qingyin Expressway, arriving in Yinchuan at noon.

We had made a reservation in advance for the Ningxia Museum. After a short rest at the hotel, we visited the museum.

The Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region Museum, abbreviated as Ningxia Museum, is located on East Renmin Square Street, Jinfeng District, Yinchuan, Ningxia. The entire building is laid out in a "回" shape, with a total construction area of 30,258 square meters. The museum houses nearly 40,000 cultural relics, including 159 national first-class artifacts and over 4,000 precious artifacts of grade three and above. Among them, the stone tomb door with Hu Xuan dance reliefs, the gilded bronze ox, and the powerful figure inscription base have been identified as national treasure-level artifacts.

The rock art exhibition hall, called "Stone Carving History," allows close contact with Ningxia's petroglyphs. Stepping into the hall feels like entering an ancient era.

The "Ningxia General History Exhibition Hall" is the key area of the museum. It includes treasures such as the Western Han silver-inlaid bronze sheep, the Tang Dynasty Hu Xuan dance stone door leaf, the Western Xia gilded bronze ox, the human figure stele base, and the glass bowl with raised dots. Here, you can also see a rubbing of the "Inscription of the Reconstruction of Huguo Temple in Liangzhou," whose Western Xia characters look more like square characters than Chinese characters.

The "Hui Customs Exhibition" mainly displays historical records and various copies of the Qur'an, making it a good place to learn about Muslim culture and Islamic history.

The museum was large and rich in collections. We spent the entire afternoon there until closing time. After leaving the museum, we went to the Huaiyuan Night Market.

The Huaiyuan Night Market is located at the intersection of Huaiyuan Road and Wencui North Road in the Xixia District of Yinchuan (south gate of Ningxia University). The nearly one-kilometer stretch along Huaiyuan Road is for small commodity night market, while the two sides of Wencui North Road are for food night market. Here, you can not only taste all kinds of lamb dishes from Ningxia, such as instant-boiled lamb, grilled lamb skewers, sauced lamb trotters, steamed lamb neck, braised lamb offal, and stir-fried lamb, as well as local specialties like assorted stew, cold noodle skin, stir-fried bobo, and the Hui Ten Big Bowls, but also find various flavors from all over the country.

The Helan Mountains lie on the border between the Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region and Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region. They are an important natural geographical dividing line in China, playing a significant role in transforming the Yinchuan Plain into a "Jiangnan beyond the Great Wall." The Helan Mountains are not only the watershed between the outflow and inland river systems but also the boundary between monsoon and non-monsoon climates, as well as the dividing line between grasslands and deserts in China. The eastern side is a semi-agricultural and semi-pastoral area, while the western side is purely pastoral.

The Helan Mountains have been inhabited since ancient times, leaving behind a large number of rock carvings. Today, we were going to explore the Helan Mountain canyon to see the lives of ancient people. Driving 50 minutes from downtown Yinchuan, we arrived at the Helan Mountain Rock Art Scenic Area.

Rock art consists of pictures painted or carved on rocks by early humans. In the hinterland of the Helan Mountains, stretching over 200 kilometers from north to south, nearly 6,000 mysterious rock carvings record the realistic life scenes of ancient people from 3,000 to 10,000 years ago. They have become a cultural treasure trove for studying the history of human culture, religion, and primitive art, reputed as "history books on stone," "prehistoric human art gallery," and "the origin of Chinese culture."

[Insert image: Helan Mountain Rock Art - Woman Flower]

[Insert image: Helan Mountain Rock Art - Sun God]

[Insert image: Helan Mountain Rock Art - Handprints]

The opened area of the Helan Mountain Rock Art Scenic Area is not large; you can walk around in less than 2 hours. After leaving the rock art scenic area, we went to the nearby Ningxia Helan Mountain National Forest Park.

Ningxia Helan Mountain National Forest Park is located in the outskirts of Yinchuan, the capital of Ningxia, and is the nearest national forest park to a provincial capital in China. The park covers a total area of 9,587 hectares, with the highest elevation at 3,483 meters. The mountains are majestic, the forests are dense, and it boasts rich natural scenery and unique cultural landscapes, making it an ecological tourism destination integrating sightseeing and recreation.

At the park entrance, we took a sightseeing bus to Songtao Mountain Villa, then followed the boardwalk up the mountain for about 40 minutes to Qingsong Ridge. Here, the altitude was already over 2,000 meters. To conserve energy, we didn't continue to Cherry Valley. After staying at Qingsong Ridge for a while, we returned to Songtao Mountain Villa and took the bus back to the entrance.

[Insert image: Helan Mountain National Forest Park]

At the park entrance, we learned that the Baisikou Twin Pagodas, a Western Xia site, were only 5 kilometers away. We decided to check them out.

The Baisikou Twin Pagodas are located on a platform on the north side of Baisi Gully in the Helan Mountains, about 45 kilometers northwest of Yinchuan, Ningxia. They are the best-preserved Western Xia Buddhist pagodas in Ningxia, with a history of about 1,000 years. The east and west pagodas face each other, about 80 meters apart. Their structure and form are roughly the same: thirteen-story octagonal dense-eave hollow brick pagodas, consisting of the body and the spire, without a base. Around the twin pagodas, there are also remains of a pagoda forest, Dasi Taizi, and a small temple from the late Qing Dynasty. The Baisikou Twin Pagodas are rare artistic treasures in the history of Chinese pagoda architecture, with high historical, cultural, and research value in Western Xia archaeology, architecture, and Buddhism.

The east and west pagodas have simple and elegant forms. After viewing the Baisikou Twin Pagodas, it was already after 4 p.m. We drove 110 kilometers via the Jingzang Expressway to Wuzhong.

Wuzhong has a long history, where diverse cultures blend. It was an important passage on the Silk Road, known as the "Land and Water Wharf, Great Fair Under Heaven." Long-term commercial exchanges and cultural interactions among various cuisines have gradually formed unique dining customs. Wuzhong morning tea originates from Chinese cuisine, incorporating elements of Cantonese morning tea, merging breakfast with leisure, business and social culture, gradually forming through the interactions and integration of various ethnic groups. Wuzhong morning tea culture tells the story of the hardworking and persevering spirit of the people of Wuzhong and inherits a long-standing health culture, making it an integral part of traditional Chinese culture.

Unlike Southern morning tea, Wuzhong morning tea is served in beef noodle restaurants. This morning, we first went to a beef noodle restaurant near the hotel to experience Wuzhong's morning tea culture.

Wuzhong morning tea generally consists of a rich and thirst-quenching eight-treasure health tea, fragrant beef noodles, exquisite various dim sum, and a variety of refreshing appetizers.

After eating and drinking, we drove to the Qingtongxia Yellow River Grand Canyon Tourist Area.

The Qingtongxia Yellow River Grand Canyon is located in Wuzhong, the hometown of the Hui people known as the "Pearl on the Frontier." It is the last canyon on the upper reaches of the Yellow River, often called the "Little Three Gorges of the Yellow River." The many scenic spots on both sides of the Yellow River present a dazzling array, showcasing Yellow River culture, Western Xia culture, Hui culture, and the scenery south of the Yangtze River beyond the Great Wall.

Entering the scenic area, we first visited the Qingtongxia Hydropower Station.

The Qingtongxia Hydropower Station is known as the "Pearl on the Frontier," located at the outlet of the Qingtongxia Yellow River Grand Canyon. It is 687.3 meters long, 42.7 meters high, and 46.7 meters wide. Built in 1958, it generates an average annual power output of 13.5 billion kWh. The Qingtongxia Water Control Project was the first water conservancy project built in the western ethnic minority region after the founding of the People's Republic of China and the earliest gate-type hydropower station built on the upper reaches of the Yellow River. It is a comprehensive water control project mainly for irrigation and power generation, with additional benefits of flood control and ice prevention. Its completion ended the history of diverting water without dams in Ningxia for over two thousand years, giving rise to the saying "The Yellow River enriches Ningxia, and the Qingtongxia is the Pearl on the Frontier."

[Insert image: Qingtongxia Hydropower Station]

We had originally booked tickets for the Ten-Mile Long Gorge boat tour, but due to equipment maintenance, we couldn't enter the long gorge today. We could only enter the gorge from the Qingtongxia Dam and take a boat to the One Hundred and Eight Pagodas.

The One Hundred and Eight Pagodas are located on the west bank of the Qingtongxia Yellow River Grand Canyon. Built during the Western Xia period, they are one of the largest existing ancient pagoda groups in China, attracting visitors with their historical, artistic, and scientific value.

After the Western Xia Dynasty, dominated by the Tangut people, was established, Buddhism became its main religion. Western Xia Buddhism, which lasted less than 200 years, not only holds a certain position in the history of Chinese Buddhism but also has distinct regional and ethnic characteristics. Deeply influenced by the Central Plains, Tibetan Buddhism also spread and thrived in Western Xia through interactions with Tubo. The distinctive Western Xia Buddhism is not only an indispensable part of Chinese Buddhist culture but also a precious legacy for the world's ethnic culture treasure trove.

After visiting the One Hundred and Eight Pagodas, we took a sightseeing bus to the Qingtongxia Yellow River Iron Bridge.

The Qingtongxia Yellow River Iron Bridge is located at the entrance of the Qingtongxia Yellow River Grand Canyon scenic area. It is the first bridge over the Yellow River in Ningxia, officially opened to traffic on July 1, 1959. It was mainly built for the Qingtongxia Water Control Project and to transport goods between the two banks of the Yellow River. This semi-permanent bridge is 292.3 meters long and was assembled using 35,000 rivets. Many rusted steel beams of the bridge bear markings in eight languages, including English and French, along with the year of production, earning it the name "Eight-Country Bridge."

[Insert image: Qingtongxia Yellow River Iron Bridge]

After finishing the tour of the Qingtongxia Yellow River Grand Canyon, it was after 2 p.m. We drove 100 kilometers to Zhongwei.

The Zhongwei High Temple was just across the street from our hotel. After checking in, we visited the Zhongwei High Temple.

The Zhongwei High Temple is located in the northern part of Zhongwei city, Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region. It is built on a high platform connected to the city wall (including the Bao'an Temple below the platform) and is a temple that integrates three religions. First built during the Yongle era of the Ming Dynasty, it had become a large-scale ancient architectural complex by the Qing Dynasty.

The High Temple is named for its height. The entire complex is divided into two parts: the front is low, and the back is high, layered like a phoenix spreading its wings. Climbing to the top of the High Temple, you can gaze into the distance, seeing the vast desert oasis, the Yellow River, and the Great Wall.

Leaving the Zhongwei High Temple, it was getting dark. We had dinner, strolled in a nearby park, and experienced the nightlife of this small city, Zhongwei.

July 2024