A Journey into Yan'an, the Sacred Revolutionary Site, Tracing Red Memories
In April 2025, during the Qingming Festival, I visited the revolutionary sacred site of Yan'an to pay homage to revolutionary martyrs, and of course, to avoid the overwhelming crowds of tourism. Stepping into Yan'an, I touched the red marks carved by time: pausing before the cave dwellings in Yangjialing, I seemed to hear the whispers of history; looking up from the foot of Pagoda Hill, a surge of pride welled up in my chest. Every blade of grass and every tree here tells the story of the past's eventful years.
The train arrived in Yan'an, which is separated only by the Yellow River from my mother's hometown, Lishi. Thus, the landscape, mountains, and even the language are very similar, giving me a strong sense of familiarity, as if returning home. The Yan River flows through the city, with buildings on both sides; three mountains encircle one river—Pagoda Hill, Qingliang Hill, and Fenghuang Hill.
The first stop was the Yan'an Revolutionary Memorial Hall, with a stunning 36,000 revolutionary artifacts that take you through time to touch history. The main hall features a giant relief sculpture titled "The Long March of the Red Army." Even though it was a holiday, there were still streams of uniformed visitors coming to study and pay respects.
The Yan'an Revolutionary Memorial Hall hosts five major special exhibitions: "The Great Journey—Thirteen Years of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of China in Yan'an," "Forging the Soul—Strict Party Governance in the Yan'an Period," "The Great Long March, Brilliant Epic," "Strengthening the Foundation—Party Organizational Construction in the Yan'an Period," and "Never Forget the Path We Came From—Special Exhibition Celebrating the 100th Anniversary of the Founding of the Communist Party of China." These comprehensively and systematically showcase the brilliant history of the CPC Central Committee with Mao Zedong at its core, leading the revolution to victory through hardship and toil in Yan'an and northern Shaanxi over thirteen years. A vast number of precious revolutionary artifacts, historical photographs, and documentary materials are on display. Yellowed letters, obsolete weapons, and simple daily necessities silently tell the story of the arduous struggle. Through multimedia display methods, the revolutionary scenes of the Yan'an period are vividly recreated, as if one can see the ancestors steadfastly advancing amidst the flames of war, evoking deep reverence.
Early the next morning, I climbed Pagoda Hill, the landmark of Yan'an. The pagoda was first built during the Dali reign of Emperor Daizong of Tang, underwent renovations in the Ming dynasty, and saw multiple repairs in the Qing dynasty. It stands 44 meters tall, with a base circumference of 36.8 meters, an octagonal nine-story pavilion-style brick pagoda. Inside, there are two gates—south and north. The north gate's lintel reads "Looking Down on the Mortal World," while the south reads "Transcending the Blue Sky." Inside the north gate, a staircase leads to the top. Outside the pagoda, on the hill, there are also Song dynasty cliffside inscriptions, Fan Gong Well, Beacon Tower, Star-Picking Tower, the site of the Japanese Workers' and Peasants' School, Jialing Academy, ancient city walls and fortress ruins, a Ming dynasty iron bell, and other cultural relics and historical sites, along with poetry steles by ancient and modern luminaries and memorial forests. Song dynasty scholar-officials, while governing the region, left not only political achievements but also such cultural heritage as precious books. Fan Zhongyan's upright and forceful calligraphy stands out. Climbing Pagoda Hill offers a panoramic view of Yan'an city, with the Yan River winding and new and old buildings complementing each other. This ancient pagoda, which has weathered the vicissitudes of time, has witnessed Yan'an's development and transformation, as well as the brilliant journey of China's revolution from hardship to victory. Standing at the top, a sense of pride spontaneously arises.
Qingliang Hill: Not only did it give birth to the cave-dwelling office of Xinhua News Agency, the cradle of Chinese journalism, but it also houses Song dynasty grottoes containing 31 Northern Song Buddha statues. On one side, the power of public opinion and propaganda; on the other, faith—both are weapons as powerful as swords and guns.
The former revolutionary sites of Yangjialing, Zaoyuan, and Wangjiaping are excellent places to experience the life and work of the revolutionary ancestors. Entering the cave dwellings in Yangjialing, the small space—with a table, chair, bed, and quilt—remains exactly as it was back then. The site of the Seventh National Congress of the Communist Party of China is located here. Imagining the delegates discussing grand plans and drawing the blueprint for China's future fills one with awe. Zaoyuan, shaded by lush trees, served as the residence of the Central Secretariat. The 22 cave dwellings, cool in summer and warm in winter, still hold the creaking old spinning wheels. Strolling through, one feels as if the leaders were bent over their desks, writing and directing the nation. Wangjiaping, as the headquarters of the CPC Central Military Commission, led the victory in the eight-year War of Resistance against Japan. It displays many precious historical artifacts of military command and decision-making, providing a more intuitive understanding of military strategy during the revolutionary war era.
The Northwest Bureau Memorial Hall gave me a comprehensive understanding of Xi Zhongxun's achievements—like father, like son.
I caught a ride to Nanniwan, 40 kilometers away. I imagined that now Nanniwan is a land of plenty everywhere, but the reality was that it was still just after Qingming, barren and desolate. Even staying too long in the Nanniwan Memorial Hall felt cold and chilling. I had to conjure up in my mind the scene from the song lyrics of a thousand acres of rice fields rolling like golden waves. The Artillery School is a favorite for military enthusiasts.
This trip to the revolutionary sacred site of Yan'an has given me a deeper understanding and insight into that magnificent and turbulent era. If you also yearn to trace red memories and feel the warmth of history, Yan'an is definitely a sacred site you cannot miss!