Loess Plateau, Revolutionary Holy Land, Magnificent China
Every year I take my elderly parents to appreciate the magnificent landscapes of our motherland. This year, my father is 88 and my mother 83. Should we travel? Recently I seemed to hear my father's wish to visit the revolutionary holy land—Yan'an. After returning from Tibet, I gained a deeper understanding of life and the present moment. While they are still healthy, I took time out of my busy schedule and designed a travel route through the northern Shaanxi Loess Plateau, starting and ending in Yulin. I set off on a spontaneous trip with my two elderly parents.
The entire itinerary is a small loop in northern Shaanxi, covering Jingbian Wave Valley, Ganquan Grand Canyon, the revolutionary holy land Yan'an, Qiankun Bay Scenic Area, Jia County Baiyun Mountain, Mahuangliang Loess Geological Park, and other attractions. Most of these are relatively niche tourist spots, so there are few visitors and beautiful scenery—well worth a visit.
We flew Juneyao Air, arriving at Yuyang Airport at 12:10. After landing, we rented a car. The first impression: few people and strong wind. First, we went to Hongshi Gorge (Red Stone Gorge), practically having the scenic area to ourselves—what a treat! It is famous for its unique Danxia landform, abundant cliff inscriptions, and profound historical and cultural heritage. The scenic area is not large, surrounding the Yuxi River in a loop. It feels a bit like Longmen Grottoes and has the charm of Dunhuang murals. The "Red Mountain Sunset" is even one of the "Eight Scenes of Yulin."
Hongshi Gorge is very close to Zhenbeitai, just a 5-minute drive. Zhenbeitai—the First Platform of the Great Wall—was built in the 35th year of the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty and is one of the key fortress sites of the Great Wall in the northwest. It rivals Shanhai Pass, Jiayuguan, and Juyong Pass, collectively known as "Three Passes and One Platform."
After visiting these two attractions, we checked into the newly opened Starway Hotel (Fuzi Temple Branch). The window overlooks a large square. Taxis are cheap—only 6 yuan to get to Four Cave Dwellings (Qinjian Road Branch). The portions were generous and the taste excellent; we couldn't finish three dishes and had to pack them up.
After dinner, we strolled along Yulin Old Street and Fuzi Temple Pedestrian Street, with stone-paved roads, ancient buildings, museums, and a farmers' market—everything you could want.
Back at the hotel, the large square opposite was filled with a massive square dance accompanied by northern Shaanxi folk songs. Even at past eight in the evening, they were enthusiastically singing about their happy lives.
After breakfast at the hotel, we set off for Jingbian, a 2-hour drive. Before the trip, I had been hesitant—should I take them to Wave Valley Scenic Area? Since there is absolutely no transportation within the scenic area, everything relies on your own two legs climbing up and down—could they manage? I decided to first take them to the free "wild spots"—Crocodile Swimming Lake and Phoenix Tail Rock—to see what the landforms and scenery were like.
First, we went to Crocodile Swimming Lake. Yellow rocks with emerald green water really looked like a crocodile lying on the lake. The wind was strong, kicking up sand, and there was no one around.
Next, we went to Phoenix Tail Rock, also known as "Water Danxia," which is not yet under scenic area management. A farmer charged 15 yuan for parking and allowed us to drive down to the lake. Without hesitation, I paid and drove down—this view was worth it. Under sunlight, the red rocks of varying heights, paired with the clear blue-green lake, were incredibly beautiful. I even managed to capture a "heart-shaped lake"—what luck!
Seeing the high spirits of my two elderly parents and their exclamations of praise greatly strengthened my resolve to take them to Wave Valley Scenic Area.
Let's first look at the map of Wave Valley Scenic Area. Flame Danxia—you can rent astronaut suits for photos, as if you've landed on Mars; Red Cliff Danxia—one side is Danxia cliffs, the other side is Loess Plateau, with reeds swaying in the wind at the bottom of the valley. Center of the Earth Danxia—overlooking the Danxia from above the canyon, as if the Lonely Planet cover comes to life. Since the essence of Wave Valley is in the second half, mainly Yixian Tian (A Glimpse of Sky) and Thousand-Meter Gallery, I decisively skipped the Glass Bridge and Flame Danxia scenic spots considering the attractions and my parents' abilities.
Entering the scenic area, we turned right and went down the stairs. On both sides were the Loess Plateau, with a narrow path in the middle. Yellow mountains, green plants, blue sky, white clouds—suddenly the view opened up.
Thousand-Meter Gallery—the entire boardwalk allows you to appreciate different Danxia stone peaks, with changing views at every step.
Yixian Tian (A Glimpse of Sky)—the essence of the scenic area, experiencing the marvelous craftsmanship of nature under changing light and shadow.
Danxia Rose—a time-space tunnel, as if the Little Prince had left a treasure on Earth, forming a stunning picture with the Danxia landform.
Passing through Flying Cloud Ladder and Rainbow Ladder, we arrived at Center of the Earth Danxia. The textures of the red sandstone were as majestic as ocean waves, like the fingerprints of time, with magnificent curves rolling like waves in the sea.
My parents relied on their own strength—taking breaks, taking photos, enjoying the views over three hours. They conquered Rainbow Ladder, Red Cliff Danxia, and Center of the Earth Danxia. Walking through Huishou Bridge, Shenshu Bridge, and Longxin Rock, they received praise from many people along the way, which gave them more energy. The charm of Danxia lies in its mystery and wonder, making one marvel at the incredible power of nature.
After smoothly finishing the tour, we got on the highway and headed straight for the revolutionary holy land—Yan'an. We stayed two nights at Shengxin Hotel (Wanda Plaza Branch). In the evening, we took a ten-minute walk to Erdao Street, which was very lively. We tried local specialties like mianpi, Zichang pancakes, Yan'an Zhanzhan, and Jiaotuan, marveling at the rich variety of northern Shaanxi wheat-based foods. Then we walked to the foot of Pagoda Mountain and watched a ten-minute light show—perfect.
My father often watches revolutionary TV dramas at home and has always had a special feeling for Yan'an. Last time we visited Xi'an, we went to the Mausoleum of the Yellow Emperor and Hukou Waterfall, but didn't bring him to Yan'an. This time we came specially. Yangjialing and Zaoyuan Revolutionary Site were must-visits. At Yangjialing, the former residences of great leaders exuded simplicity; at Zaoyuan Revolutionary Site, it was clear that the victory of the revolution was hard-won. "It wasn't easy—great!" my father kept exclaiming as he walked. We visited all the former residences of the leaders and felt the echoes of history in the grand auditorium. The "Happy Water" Happy Canal and the site where the Chongqing Negotiations were decided were full of historical significance.
After bidding farewell to the great leaders, we set off for Ganquan, passing through Shimen Town. We sat in a cave dwelling and tasted "green tofu" made from mung beans—rich in bean flavor and delicious.
At around noon, under the blazing sun, we walked into Ganquan Grand Canyon, known as "China's Antelope Canyon." The combination of Danxia landform and light and shadow was truly remarkable. Sunlight poured through the cracks of the canyon, warmly embracing the red sandstone, reflecting different layers of color, making one marvel at the wonder and beauty of nature!
Taking the scenic shuttle bus, our first stop was Huashu Gully, known as the "King of Canyons." With the sun directly overhead at noon, the rock walls were intensely colored, light and shadow changing magically. Walking through the ground fissures, I felt as if I were traversing the center of the earth—a fantastic sensation.
The second shuttle stop was Crescent Valley. The air was fresh, water flowed gently, and the steep rock walls on both sides formed continuous, winding, undulating lines. The "red" of sandstone and the "green" of moss, set against the blue sky and white clouds, felt like a fairyland.
I had originally planned to visit two free wild spots—Heart-shaped Canyon and Huining Ancient Village—but they were over a 30-minute drive away, and considering my parents were tired, I had to give up. I'll leave a photo of Heart-shaped Canyon taken from somewhere else as a small regret.
The mountain roads were winding, taking a full two hours to return to the hotel. We continued to enjoy the food on Erdao Street, walked along the Yan River, and looked at Qingliang Mountain and Pagoda Mountain. Tomorrow we will leave this revolutionary holy land.
Today was a long driving day. Yan'an—Yanchuan—Suide—Mizhi—Jiaxian, total driving time over seven hours, mostly on mountain roads. It was both a test and an enjoyment of driving pleasure. While driving alone, the thought came to mind: "If you walk through all the winding roads today, the rest of your life will be smooth."
After breakfast, we departed early, taking highway and mountain roads for two hours to reach Yanchuan Qiankun Bay Scenic Area. This scenic area is large, but luckily we could drive in. There were very few visitors. The scenic area includes three main spots: Qiankun Bay, Qingshui Pass, and Huifeng Village. The peril of Huifeng Village, the beauty of Qingshui Pass, and the grandeur of Qiankun Bay left beautiful impressions on us.
First stop: Huifeng Village, a military ancient village from the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty. It borders the Yellow River to the east and is surrounded by water on three sides, known as the "Little Huashan" of northern Shaanxi. The 257 steps of the Cloud Ladder prevented my parents from exploring Huifeng Village itself, so they enjoyed the view from the observation platform.
Second stop: Qingshui Bay, the second largest bend after Qiankun Bay, and the most densely distributed and best-preserved section of the Yellow River's main channel, known as the "Yellow River's Snake Meander." The cliffs on both sides are towering, and the view is vast. There are also ancient ferry ruins, the Qingshui Courtyard, and other attractions. We drove from the mountain top to the foot to see everything.
Third stop: Qiankun Bay, with its curvature reaching 320 degrees, is known as the "World's First Bend of the Yellow River." From the observation platform, the "S"-shaped curve of the Yellow River forms the Tai Chi Eight Trigrams pattern, with the yin-yang fish-eye mountain ranges faintly visible—a panoramic view of the Yellow River's grandeur. We took the sightseeing car for 10 yuan per person to visit five observation points, experiencing the magnificence of the Yellow River and the wondrous power of nature.
Under the scorching sun, we drove winding mountain roads towards the highway. Next stop: Suide County, Yulin City. "Mizhi's women, Suide's men." We arrived at Stone Soul Square and felt the charm of Suide, the "hometown of stone carving." The giant stone lion in the center of the square is 19.5 meters tall. Inside the bellies of the two giant lions on either side is a stone lion museum. The sheer size and number of stone lions were breathtaking.
After seeing the "men," we continued along the road lined with stone carving workshops—truly the "hometown of stone carving." In search of the "women," we arrived at Mizhi County, Yulin City. We visited Li Zicheng's Palace. Li Zicheng, the "Daring King," was from Mizhi and naturally became a source of pride for the "Mizhi women." The entire complex is built into the mountain, solemn and majestic, looking from afar like a soaring dragon—grand and impressive.
After eating some noodle dishes, we pressed the accelerator and continued on the winding mountain roads, directly arriving at the foot of Jia County Baiyun Mountain to check in. I walked alone to the Yellow River to watch the sunset—perfect!
Jia County, known as the "suspended ancient city" and "Iron Jiazhou," is a small surprise on this trip.
First stop: Baiyun Mountain, a famous Taoist mountain, the largest Ming and Qing Dynasty ancient Taoist architectural complex in northwest China. Named Baiyun (White Cloud) Mountain due to the year-round white clouds, the temple is called Baiyun Temple because "the mountain gate has no lock, sealed by white clouds." It stands majestically on the west bank of the surging Yellow River, with lush pines and cypresses and layered cliffs. Cars can drive to the top, greatly facilitating the visit for elderly people.
The beauty of architecture: Baiyun Temple, arranged according to the hierarchy of the temple halls, represents the highest level of Ming and Qing ancient architecture. The Taoist temple now has over 99 existing buildings of various sizes, including 54 temple halls, covering a total area of 121,000 square meters. Additionally, it houses an imperial edict issued by Emperor Shenzong of the Ming Dynasty and 4,726 volumes of Taoist scriptures bestowed by the emperor, which brought it great fame.
On the way down the mountain, we passed an observation platform with a magnificent view. We also met a local from Jia County wearing a party emblem and doing volunteer service. He enthusiastically introduced to us the "Two Reds, Two Yellows, and One White" of Jia County: "Two Reds"—Jia County red dates are famous, and it's the hometown of 'The East Is Red'; "Two Yellows"—Yellow River culture and the Yellow River plank road; "One White"—Baiyun Mountain. His heartfelt local accent revealed deep love for his hometown.
Jia County is a mountain town with narrow roads and steep ups and downs. Our second stop was Yunyan Temple, built into the mountain in a staggered layout. Cave chambers, halls, cliff inscriptions, reliefs, stone tablets, murals, ancient cypresses—all gathered into a "Little Dunhuang"—amazing!
After visiting Yunyan Temple, we continued upward to the third stop: Xianglu Temple (Incense Burner Temple). It is located on the peak of Xianglu Peak in the east of the city, overlooking the Yellow River to the east, with sheer cliffs on three sides—only a narrow path in the northwest connects it to the ancient city gate—incredible!
At noon, we enjoyed a meal of "northern Shaanxi Minjie" (a type of noodle) to our heart's content.
Continuing, the fourth stop: Mahuangliang Loess Geological Park—venturing into the mysterious realm of Ghost Blows Out the Light. Yellow earth peaks, emerald green lakes, countless ravines—it is like a love letter from the Loess Plateau to the world.
Ending today's itinerary, we drove an hour back to Yulin city center and checked into Starway Hotel (Fuzi Temple Branch) again. After freshening up, we took a taxi to the old shop "Yuwei Pinsanxian" to taste delicious food.
Outside the hotel, the pagoda of Yulin's old city stood out vividly under the setting sun, telling the stories of the city's past, present, and future.
Morning rose, breakfast finished. At 9:30 we arrived at Yulin Yuyang Airport, took off on time at 11:10, and landed at Pudong Airport at 13:45.
Thus, a six-day, 1,100-kilometer self-drive loop—Yulin, Jingbian, Ganquan, Yan'an, Yanchuan, Suide, Mizhi, Jiaxian, Mahuangliang, Yulin—came to a successful conclusion.
The chivalrous spirit of Hongshi Gorge, the desolation of Zhenbeitai, the beauty of Water Danxia, the wonder of Wave Valley, the light and shadow of Ganquan Grand Canyon, the revolutionary holy land Yan'an, the magnificent Qiankun Bay bend of the Yellow River, Suide's Stone Soul Square, Mizhi's Li Zicheng Palace, Jia County's "Two Reds, Two Yellows, One White"—Baiyun Mountain, Yunyan Temple, Xianglu Temple, and the countless ravines of Mahuangliang—all left beautiful impressions on us.
My 88-year-old father and 83-year-old mother, hand in hand, enjoying beautiful scenery and delicious food together—that is our happiness.
Travel Journal Contents:
1. Departure again
2. May 22: Yulin
3. May 23: Jingbian
4. May 24: Yan'an, Ganquan
5. May 25: Yanchuan, Suide, Mizhi, Jiaxian
6. May 26: Jiaxian, Mahuangliang
7. May 27: Return trip
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