An Eight-Day Trip in a Low-Risk Area
I originally thought this pandemic would be over by June, but now it's September, and the outbreak is sweeping the globe with no signs of abating. Two months before departure, I signed up for the '8-Day Shanghai-Luoyang Luxury Cruise' scheduled from June 18 to June 25. However, things didn't go as planned. The turning point of the pandemic overseas seemed far away, and a new outbreak emerged in Beijing's Xinfadi market. With a mix of anxiety and anticipation, we set off on June 18 as scheduled.
2020.6.18 Day 1: First Scenic Spot - Seven Victories Memorial Hall. The Seven Victories in Central Jiangsu, also known as the Central Jiangsu Campaign, took place from July 13 to August 27, 1946. Under the command of Su Yu and Tan Zhenglin, the Central China Field Army, with 30,000 troops, faced 120,000 American-equipped Nationalist troops. They fought seven consecutive battles, winning each one, annihilating over 53,000 enemy soldiers. A spokesperson from the Yan'an headquarters highly praised the campaign, calling it 'Seven Victories in Seven Battles.' Due to the pandemic, the memorial hall was closed. I could only take a quick walk around the perimeter, just to check in. The 'World's Largest Bayonet' is reputed to be the biggest bayonet in the world.
2020.6.19 Day 2: Zhou Enlai Memorial Hall is located on a lake peninsula surrounded by water on three sides in Taoyin, northeast of Huai'an District. The building is solemn and respectful, simple yet elegant, blending traditional national style with modern architectural features. Every part of the structure carries profound meaning, reflecting the designer's ingenuity and expressing the people's longing for Premier Zhou. It consists of a main hall and an auxiliary hall. Comrade Deng Xiaoping inscribed the name 'Zhou Enlai Memorial Hall.' The base of the main hall is trapezoidal, while the hall itself is octagonal, giving a sense of motion within solemnity, symbolizing Zhou Enlai's crucial role in turning the tide at critical moments for our party and army. From the top of the main hall, one can enjoy a panoramic view. The auxiliary hall, echoing the main hall, is shaped like the Chinese character '人' (person), signifying Zhou Enlai's great and noble character and subtly expressing that he lives forever in the hearts of the people. The memorial hall is surrounded by water with clear ripples. The entire complex consists of two groups of magnificent memorial buildings, a memorial island, three artificial lakes, and surrounding green spaces.
Yunlong Mountain is a famous mountain in northern Jiangsu, offering both natural scenery and cultural landscapes. The mountain is covered with huge rocks and lush forests. It consists of nine peaks stretching north-south, winding like a dragon, and is named for the frequent clouds and mist that surround it. Yunlong Academy features the Dongpo Stone Bed and the Huangmaogang Cliff Inscriptions. When Su Dongpo of the Song Dynasty served as governor in Xu, he often climbed the mountain to enjoy the views and would sleep drunk on the rocks. His poem and calligraphy 'Record of the Crane-Releasing Pavilion' are preserved in the mountain.
2020.6.20 Day 3: Dragon Pavilion was built on the site of the imperial palaces of the Six Dynasties (the Later Liang, Later Jin, Later Han, Later Zhou of the Five Dynasties, as well as the Northern Song and Jin Dynasties). It features the magnificent and imposing Dragon Pavilion Hall, along with the Meridian Gate, Jade Belt Bridge, Songhu, Court Gate, Screen Wall, and Court Rooms, forming the Qing Dynasty Wanshou Palace complex. Tracing its origins: Dragon Pavilion Park was built in 1692 on the Coal Mountain of the former Prince Zhou's mansion, where a Wanshou Pavilion was constructed to enshrine the emperor's longevity tablet. During festivals or the emperor's birthday, local officials would come to pay homage from afar. Thus, Coal Mountain was renamed Dragon Pavilion Mountain, later shortened to 'Dragon Pavilion.' The Dragon Pavilion scenic area is surrounded by water on three sides, and with the annual Chrysanthemum Festival held here, it has become a symbol of Kaifeng. Songhu is located between the Meridian Gate and the Court Gate, also called Shanhu, where officials of Kaifeng would shout 'Long live the emperor' three times at the Wanshou Palace. The Jade Belt Bridge is a stone arch bridge spanning the Pan and Yang Lakes on either side. It is named for its curved shape like a jade belt on the shimmering water. Panjia Lake and Yangjia Lake are located on either side of the main road of Dragon Pavilion Park: Panjia Lake to the east and Yangjia Lake to the west. The lakes are vast with winding shores, peach blossoms and willows, jade bridges, and beautiful scenery.
There is a folk legend about Yangjia Lake and Panjia Lake: During the Northern Song Dynasty, General Yang Ye of the Yang family was framed by the treacherous Prime Minister Pan Renmei. Defeated at Chenjiagu and severely wounded, he was captured and died after three days of fasting. His wife, She Taijun, angrily stormed the palace to accuse Pan Renmei before the emperor, but Pan, being a powerful prime minister, received only a symbolic punishment. She Taijun resigned in anger. The Yang and Pan families were separated only by a road. As soon as the Yang family moved away, a fierce wind and rainstorm raged for three days and nights, turning the two estates into a vast lake. After the storm, both houses collapsed, forming two lakes. Because one family was loyal and the other treacherous, the lake waters are also said to be clear on one side and turbid on the other.
'Relics of Song Palace Stone' is one of the 'Three Treasures of Song' remaining on the surface of Kaifeng, alongside the Iron Pagoda and Fan Pagoda. As mentioned earlier, Dragon Pavilion was originally Coal Mountain, which was no ordinary artificial hill. It was entirely built with strange rocks left from the Northern Song imperial garden 'Genyue' (the famous 'Huashigang' relics), including Taihu stones and Lingbi stones from the 'Four Famous Stones.' At that time, the royal family carefully selected them, spent huge sums, and transported them over long distances to Kaifeng. These stones are nearly a thousand years old, each carrying profound historical and cultural significance, their value beyond measure. On the night of July 15, 1994, the high base wall of Dragon Pavilion Hall (which had already shown signs of bulging) collapsed due to years of neglect and continuous rain. The entire hall tilted northward, and the column bases shifted. During emergency repairs, workers clearing the foundation excavated the Ming Dynasty Coal Mountain, revealing a large number of Taihu and Lingbi stones. When they tried to lift a few with a crane, they couldn't budge them, so they took two smaller stones from the peak as evidence. After the restoration, these stones were placed on either side of the hall.
Tanguyuan is located on the east lake island within Panjia Lake, built based on historical legends and stories of the Dragon Pavilion era. It consists of three exhibition halls—north, east, and west—displaying five groups of Dragon Pavilion stories. During the pandemic, the iron gates were tightly shut, so we couldn't visit. Songdu Imperial Street: During the Northern Song Dynasty, the Imperial Street in the Eastern Capital started from the Palace's Xuande Gate in the north, passed through Zhou Bridge and Zhuque Gate, and reached the South Xun Gate of the outer city. It was over ten li long and two hundred steps wide, serving as the main thoroughfare for the emperor's processions, showcasing dignity and grandeur. The newly built Imperial Street was constructed on the site of the original.
2020.6.21 Day 4: Hall of Brightness and Heaven Hall are the most important landmarks of the Sui and Tang Luoyang City project, key sites where Empress Wu Zetian governed, worshipped Buddha, and lived. Over 1,300 years ago, Wu Zetian, the only female emperor in Chinese history, ascended the throne in Luoyang, changed the Tang to Zhou, established the Wu Zhou regime, and called herself 'Holy and Divine Emperor.' She made Luoyang the capital, naming it 'Divine Capital.' On the north-south axis, she built the Hall of Brightness, Heaven Hall, Heavenly Pivot, and other structures, creating a magnificent skyline. The Hall of Brightness was the main hall of the Tang Luoyang Palace, known as the 'Hall of Ten Thousand Spirits.' It was used for state sacrificial ceremonies, where Wu Zetian personally presided over the worship of heaven and earth. The Hall of Ten Thousand Spirits showcased Wu Zetian's imperial authority, overlooking the world, making policies independently, expanding territories, and ushering in a prosperous era. This is the main view of the new Hall of Brightness and the first thing visitors see upon entering. As a building that spans history, rising from the ruins, it dominates the city of Luoyang.
A wall with twenty Chinese characters—Wu Zetian's invented characters. As the only legitimate female emperor in history, she boldly reformed Chinese writing, adding or subtracting strokes from previous characters. From the twenty characters she created and widely used, one can glimpse her talent and extraordinary wisdom. Among them, the character '曌' (zhao) was the name she created for herself, meaning 'the sun and moon shining over the earth.' In the center of the Hall of Brightness ruins lies a circular giant pillar pit, with a massive stone plinth made of four large bluestones at the bottom. The golden spire of Heaven Hall, visible from afar, tells us it is a Buddhist structure. The exterior has five stories, but the interior has nine, alternating between bright and dark spaces, symbolizing the emperor's supreme status and the turbulent political situation.
On the second floor of the hall, a 22-meter-long mural 'Pilgrimage of All Nations' is displayed, created by contemporary mural masters including Professor Wang Yingsheng and Professor Sun Jingbo from the Central Academy of Fine Arts. The lighting design of the hall highlights the 'phoenix' theme. 'Wu Zetian's Ten Thousand Court Music and Dance' has been listed as a national intangible cultural heritage. Luoyi Ancient City, known as 'Central Plains Ferry,' is located in the old city area of Luoyang, Henan Province. The first phase of the project is in the southeast corner of Luoyi Ancient City. The project is divided into four phases with a development cycle of about ten years. The entire park offers a step-by-step view with a strong cultural atmosphere, developing and inheriting the original cultural landscape and charm of the ancient city, making it a highlight for the protection, revival, and inheritance of Luoyang's traditional culture.
Luoyang Old City Historical and Cultural Street, also known as 'Cross Street,' is bounded by Cross Street, dividing the old street into East and West Avenues. Lined with bluestone roads, there are old houses of varying heights with ancient charm, high-hanging signs, forming a bustling historical area full of life. In the middle of East Avenue stands Luoyang Drum Tower, though not majestic, it is authentic and simple, echoing with the Lijing Gate at the other end of the old street, guarding the people of the old city. The old city was rebuilt in 1224 (the first year of Jin Aizong's Zhengda era) on the foundation laid by Wang Zeng, the magistrate of Henan in the early Northern Song Dynasty. The west wall used the old site of the Tang east city. The west and north-west walls were built on the old foundations of the east city's north and west walls. The old city is nearly nine li in circumference, with four gates: Dong Jianchun, Xi Lijing, Nan Changxia, and Bei Anxi, all built as multi-story structures.
Lijing Gate is the main west gate of Luoyang and a symbol of the ancient city. It originated in the Sui Dynasty. Its 'barbican' design was the earliest imperial city designed by the ancients with an integrated offensive and defensive tactic. The city walls are high and thick, the crescent city is vast, with multiple gates and passes towering into the clouds, making it the head of Luoyang's historical and cultural old city area.
2020.6.22 Day 5: Peach Blossom Island. Take the aerial cable car to the top of the mountain gallery to enjoy the magnificent view of Gushan Gorge and Bali Gorge on Peach Blossom Island, where two waters meet, surrounded by mountains and water. This is the best spot along the Yellow River to view high gorges and calm lakes, a 'bonsai' of the great river. Mengliang Stockade has high and steep eastern ridges with gullies, while the western side is a sheer cliff with a path passing through the stockade. The terrain is dangerous, the stockade sturdy, high in front and low in back, easy to defend but hard to attack. Legend says that General Meng Liang of the Song Dynasty once guarded this pass and built the stockade, hence its name. Mengliang Stockade is an absolute natural fortress. The hilltop is very high, with cliffs on three sides, steep and smooth; only one steep slope allows people to ascend and descend. The terrain is already naturally dangerous, and Meng Liang set up three checkpoints on that only slope: the first for entry and exit of stockade members, the second for leaders, and the third for important chiefs and close associates. Not far away, Jiao Zan was stationed on another hilltop, exchanging signals and coordinating, making both stockades impregnable. Therefore, despite Meng Liang and Jiao Zan leading a band of heroes in robbing the rich to help the poor along the Yellow River, government forces repeatedly tried to eradicate them but never succeeded. Although Meng Liang and Jiao Zan engaged in robbery, they only targeted the rich to aid the poor, never harming ordinary people, earning a good reputation among the populace. When Yang Liulang (Yang Yanzhao) passed by with his troops, he heard their stories and names along the way and wanted to recruit them for the government. He sent troops to surround the stockade, only besieging without attacking, waiting for the supplies to run out so Meng Liang would surrender. But after a whole month, there was no sign of food shortage. When locals were asked, they said that on Mengliang Stockade, there was a 'returning plow living land' about a foot wide: you could plant wheat in front and harvest it immediately behind, cycling endlessly without end. Yang Liulang suddenly realized: no wonder in the tenth month, chaff from wheat was often seen blowing from the stockade top. He then pretended to withdraw, moving his troops dozens of li away but planting dozens of elite soldiers disguised as locals around Mengliang Stockade. Meng Liang, having been trapped on the hilltop for a month, was itching to get out. Seeing Yang Liulang's withdrawal, he first suspected a feint, but after scouts confirmed no trace of Yang Liulang's troops, he boldly led his men down to rob again. When they returned after a successful raid, they were ambushed by Yang Liulang's men, who captured Meng Liang and his leaders. Meng Liang was initially unconvinced, claiming trickery, but upon learning the captor was Yang Liulang, he immediately submitted willingly and also convinced Jiao Zan to join Yang Liulang in heading north. They achieved immortal heroic feats in the war against the Liao.
We descended the mountain, drenched in sweat, but I must point out that we were on 'Peach Blossom Island.' The Three Gorges of the Yellow River each have unique features: Gushan Gorge is a masterpiece of nature with peaks competing in beauty; Longfeng Gorge winds and twists with deep valleys; Bali Gorge features sheer cliffs and magnificent views, known as the 'First Gorge of the Ten Thousand Li Yellow River.' The scenic area is located in the southwest of Jiyuan City, Henan Province, 20 km upstream from the Xiaolangdi Dam, at the hub of the South Taihang tourism belt and the 'three points one line' tourism belt, and is a core area of the Wangwu Mountain World Geopark. Board the 'First Boat of the Ten Thousand Li Yellow River,' ride the rolling waves, and welcome the gusts of wind. Mountains and waters blend, bays interlace, high gorges and calm lakes, unique peaks stand tall, forming a rare northern landscape with the beauty of the Jiangnan water town, fully comparable to the Three Gorges of the Yangtze River. It possesses both the softness and grace of southern landscapes and the robustness and vigor of northern ones.
2020.6.23 Day 6: Mangdang Mountain is famous because Liu Bang, the founder of the Han Dynasty, killed a snake and started his uprising here. Chen Sheng, the first leader of a peasant uprising in Chinese history, is also buried here. Confucius once took shelter from rain and taught here, leaving sites like Fuzi Cliff and Fuzi Mountain. The largest Han tomb group in China, the Han Liang King Tombs, are scattered here. Mangdang Mountain is not only the site of Liu Bang's uprising but also the location of the Han Dynasty's dragon vein, guarded and buried by generations of Liu Bang's grandson, Liu Wu, the second legitimate son of Emperor Wen, King Xiao of Liang. The 'Han Gaozu Liu Bang Snake-Killing Stele' was erected by later generations to commemorate Liu Bang's snake-killing uprising. At night, a beam of light shining on the stele reveals a tall and mighty phantom of Liu Bang, a marvel under heaven.
Myth and Legend: The Snake-Killing Uprising
Liu Bang was a native of Fengyi, Pei County in the late Qin Dynasty. In his early years, while serving as the head of Sishui Pavilion in Pei County, he was ordered to escort a group of laborers to Lishan to build Emperor Qin Shi Huang's mausoleum. Many laborers took the opportunity to escape along the way. Liu Bang thought that even if they reached Lishan, all the laborers would have fled, and he couldn't account for it. So, before entering the Mangdang Mountain swamp, he rested and fed the laborers, and at night released them all, saying, 'You each go your own way! I will also go into hiding.' A dozen strong men among the laborers, seeing Liu Bang's magnanimity and loyalty, were willing to follow him. That night, Liu Bang drank heavily and continued on the road in high spirits. The moonlight was dim, the path winding. On the small road leading to the Mangdang swamp, the person in front suddenly screamed and turned back to report: 'A huge snake blocks the way, please take a detour!' Liu Bang, half drunk, laughed loudly and said, 'Heroes and boldness overcome all; how dare a mere snake block my path?' With that, he pushed through the crowd, drew his sword, and went forward. Indeed, a giant snake lay across the road, swaying. As Liu Bang was about to strike, the white snake said, 'I am destined to be the Son of Heaven, to roam the four seas, to destroy Qin and divide the world.' Liu Bang disagreed. The white snake said, 'If you cut off my head, I will strike your head; if you cut off my tail, I will strike your tail.' With alcohol boosting his courage, Liu Bang said, 'I will not cut off your head nor your tail; I will split you in two from the middle.' So saying, he struck with his sword, cutting the white snake in half. Blood spurted everywhere, staining the ground red, and to this day the grass there is still red. The white snake turned into a wisp of green smoke floating in the air, shouting, 'Liu Bang, give me back my life! Liu Bang, give me back my life!' Liu Bang replied, 'How can I give back your life in this deep mountain? When we reach the flatlands, I will repay you.' Liu Bang, as the Son of Heaven, his word was law. Later, Wang Mang usurped the throne and killed Emperor Ping of Han, splitting the 400-year Han dynasty in two. Legend has it that Wang Mang was the reincarnation of the white snake, thus fulfilling Liu Bang's promise. This is a later story. After killing the snake, Liu Bang continued on for several more li, then his drunkenness overwhelmed him, and he lay down by the roadside. The next morning, someone passing by the snake-killing site saw an old woman weeping bitterly and asked, 'Why are you crying?' The old woman replied, 'My son was killed by someone.' The passerby asked, 'Who killed him?' The old woman said, 'My son was originally the White Emperor's son. He transformed into a snake to block the road to seek a title from the Red Emperor's son, but was killed by the Red Emperor's son.' Then the old woman disappeared. This person came to Liu Bang's group and told them what he had seen. Liu Bang was overjoyed inside, believing he was the Red Emperor's son, and became even more determined to rebel against Qin. The youth of Pei County, hearing this, all wished to join him. Liu Bang first hid in the Mangdang mountain marshes, then returned to Pei County, killed the magistrate, was proclaimed Duke of Pei, and raised the banner of rebellion. Through the Chu-Han Contention, he eventually ascended the imperial throne.
2020.6.24 Day 7: Fengcheng River. Fengcheng is located in the center of Taizhou City, Jiangsu Province, along the Fengcheng River, integrating natural scenery and cultural features. The scenic area is surrounded by water, making it full of charm, vividly showcasing the characteristics of the Jiangnan water town. The scenic area centers on Wanghai Tower, radiating in all directions, with Peach Garden and Old Street complementing each other. Boating on the water, listening to a melodious opera, you can feel the relaxation and purification of the mind brought by this ancient city, and appreciate the charm and beauty of the water city! Wanghai Tower was first built in the Song Dynasty, and many literati have left precious inscriptions here. The Stele Garden is located by the beautiful Fengcheng River, in a lush bamboo forest. On the uniquely shaped strange rocks are engraved selected poems praising Taizhou by famous people from the Five Dynasties to the present day.
Taizhou Old Street is not a true ancient street. The land including the adjacent Peach Garden was originally farmland and residential areas of Dongjiao Baoba Village. With the planning and development of the East City River scenic area, Taizhou Old Street officially started construction in 2007 and took two years to reach its current scale. Passing through the ancient memorial archway into the old cobblestone streets, both sides are lined with antique shops, rows of large red lanterns hanging along the arcade corridors, shop signs, plaques, and banners forming a delightful scene. At the bend of the old street is a small square, with an ancient opera tower at the southern end with upturned eaves and carved beams; to the west, a small winding stream flows past the square. In the stream stands a waterwheel as tall as a three-story building, with rushing water driving its buckets. As the wheel turns, the buckets lift water high into the air like mist, creating a misty rain effect, presenting the water city scenery. At night, with lights on, the view is even more enchanting.
2020.6.25 Last Day: Mei Garden was formed by the merger of the former Mei Lanfang Historical Materials Exhibition Hall and Mei Lanfang Park. It is located on Fenghuangdun in Taizhou city, surrounded by water on three sides, with green trees and elegant scenery. 'Noble integrity shines through the ages; the first family of Qingyi.' Couplet: 'Early amazed the world with song and dance; late has disciples spreading fragrance.' Horizontal scroll: 'A generation of brilliance.'
