A Record of Luoyang (Part 1): Feeling the Flow of Time Before the Longmen Grottoes
Flying from Guangdong to Henan takes only two hours. Actually, Luoyang has a Beijiao Airport, though with few flights. If you want to go directly to Luoyang, you can choose a direct flight if there's a suitable one.
Since my initial destination was Zhengzhou, I flew to Xinzheng Airport and then transferred to Luoyang. I took the Fuxing train, which runs from Beijing to Xi'an. Zhengzhou East Station and Luoyang Longmen Station are just one stop apart, and I arrived in less than half an hour.
After getting off the train, I started checking the route and booking a homestay. I booked a homestay in a residential community, and all communication with the host was via WeChat—check-in was done remotely without any issues. Being inexperienced and naive, I struggled for a long time before the owner patiently guided me through the voice instructions to open the password lock. Although the entrance hallway was unremarkable, when I pushed open the door, I saw a simple Nordic-style decoration, which felt quite comfortable.
After dropping off my luggage, I bought tickets for the Longmen Grottoes—student or teacher IDs get a half-price discount. I took a taxi to the Longmen Grottoes scenic area. Along the way, I listened to Jay's songs, enjoyed the pleasantly cool breeze outside the window, and breathed the free air. My mood was as clear and open as the scenery through the windshield. Getting off at the ticket center, I learned that those who bought tickets online could scan a code to enter directly. But the ticket center is a half-hour walk from the entrance. Being lazy, I adhered to the principle of traveling as a vacation, so I naturally chose to buy a ticket and take the sightseeing bus up.
Stepping into the ancient architecture, the weight of history rushed toward me.
Passing through the Longmen gate, I strolled along the willow-lined avenue, imagining how hundreds or even thousands of years ago, kings, generals, scholars, and poets also came here, just like us today, at the threshold of autumn, seeking a kind of tranquility and appreciating a bit of beautiful scenery.
Approaching the Yi River, I watched a few cruise boats and the sparkling waves. The willows drooped low, a gentle breeze brushed my face, and my mood lifted. Taking photos, even with a mask on, you could see the smile in my eyes.
The Longmen Grottoes are one of China's three major grottoes. They began during the reign of Emperor Xiaowen of the Northern Wei, flourished in the Tang Dynasty, and ended in the late Qing Dynasty. There are over 2,000 existing niches and more than 110,000 statues. Although many Buddha statues have been damaged by human activities or weathered by time into a 'different state,' when these things that you usually only see in history textbooks truly appear before you, you are still stunned at that moment.
The fading colors, the missing Buddha statues, the blurred inscriptions—all bring a kind of desolate beauty of history to the grottoes, highlighting the preciousness of the remaining heritage.
I recalled an article from a month ago about online museums, which specifically mentioned Henan Museum and virtual site visits. And now, standing in front of Guyang Cave looking at the smiling Sakyamuni, the feeling was truly amazing.
The stone textures bear the marks of time, while the water in the Luogu Spring remains crystal clear.
Walking through the stairs around the grottoes, a surging emotion kept rising in my heart. I couldn't name it exactly—perhaps it was pride and gratitude for possessing such cultural treasures.
After finishing the grottoes, I crossed a bridge to the opposite side, where Xiangshan Temple is located.
'Among the ten temples of Longmen, Xiangshan is the first.' Xiangshan Temple has so many highlights. Climbing the steps, I immediately saw the solemn hall, with a bell tower and a drum tower on either side of the entrance.
Because I have a particular fondness for the Republic of China period, my favorite part was the Chinese-Western fusion Jiang-Song Villa. It is said that Chiang Kai-shek spent his 50th birthday here. At the birthday banquet, besides high-ranking Kuomintang officials like Zhang Xueliang attending to congratulate, there was also a special flight performance. And just one month after the banquet, the 'Xi'an Incident,' which influenced modern Chinese history, occurred—somewhat ironic, isn't it?
With a half-gable roof and a colonial-style gallery, the villa has over 20 rooms: meeting rooms, reception rooms, bathrooms, a study, bedrooms, and guards' rooms. The design and layout are just right—both aesthetically pleasing and fully functional. Moreover, this building witnessed more than half a century of political turmoil, adding a legendary historical flavor. Standing inside, imagining the past political figures making bold decisions and commanding the country, it's hard not to feel excited.
Stepping outside the room and casually standing in the corridor, all you see is the beautiful scenery of Xiangshan.
Coming out of the Jiang-Song Villa, I stood for a while in front of the Mahavira Hall. Walking down, I saw a wishing pool. I happened to have a coin in my pocket, so I took out one and made a wish. In the sunlight, the submerged coins from afar looked like faintly glowing stars.
As I walked along, I saw the Nine Old Men Hall. After reading the introduction, I learned that Bai Juyi visited famous mountains and ancient temples but had a special fondness for Xiangshan Temple. He even spent his own money to restore it, called himself the Xiangshan Hermit, and retired to Xiangshan Temple in his later years, often drinking tea and composing poems with Liu Zhen, Zhang Hun, and others. (By this point, the sky was getting dark and the light wasn't good, so I couldn't get a panoramic view of the Nine Old Men Hall.)
In this building (I think it's called the Yingzhi Building, but I can't quite remember), there is an inscription of Song Zhiwen's poem 'Longmen Yingzhi,' which records the time when Empress Wu Zetian visited the Longmen Buddhist complex.
By the time I finished exploring, it started to rain. Fortunately, I had an umbrella, but it was getting dark, and many tourists were heading toward the exit. I crossed the Longmen Bridge, constantly looking for the sightseeing bus, but I didn't find it, so I had to walk down myself, stopping now and then.
When I saw the milk tea shop, my eyes lit up, completely forgetting about my lactose intolerance. The fortune-telling milk tea was fun, but when I looked at the question I asked and then the answer... (insert confused black guy face.jpg)
After finishing the milk tea, I stepped out of the shop, and my steps felt much lighter. Just then, the street lanterns lit up one by one, witnessing my favorite daily magic moment of dusk.
When I got outside the scenic area, it was around 7 p.m., but for some reason, I couldn't get a ride on Didi. I hailed a taxi on the street and encountered an eccentric driver who was playing mahjong while driving—smooth moves, clearly not a first-timer.
But his Mandarin was easier to understand than the Henan drivers I'd met the previous two days. He was full of enthusiasm along the way, picking up any passenger he saw on the road. The other day, a driver stopped mid-drive and said something like 'less ice, less ice.' I was puzzled—did the car need to cool down? A while later, he came back holding several steaming hot baked sesame cakes. That's when I realized he was hungry and went to buy them. Henan dialect is really hard to understand. After a few days here, I've only learned one word: 'zhong' (third tone), which roughly means 'great' similar to Sichuan's 'bashi'.)
The enthusiastic driver dropped me off at Triumphal Arch Square. After enjoying a happy dinner, I browsed around the Sisyphus Bookstore and bought a few more books. Carrying them back, I thought: Why did I buy books so far from home? Just adding weight to my luggage? (I can never resist buying books I like!)
On my first day in Luoyang, the weather was just right, and my mood was just right. The cultural landscapes of this millennium-old capital are superb.
