Self-driving Tour: Tracing the Roots of Chinese Civilization [2020/07/04-2020/07/13]

965km & 11 hours, from Hangzhou, Zhejiang to Dengfeng, Henan. Our family of four finally embarked on the 2020 self-driving tour 'Tracing the Roots of Chinese Civilization.' Driving was a bit tiring, but our spirits were free; the family being harmonious and happy, I thought that was the most beautiful scenery in the world. Our hotel room faced Mount Songshan in the central range, its majestic and towering posture awe-inspiring. A hearty bowl of Henan-style braised noodles with a couple of side dishes was our satisfying dinner. At the nearby Songyang Park, we listened to the locals performing Henan opera with proper rhythm, quietly experiencing the contented and leisurely slow life of the local people. Tomorrow we will visit Shaolin Temple and White Horse Temple, and there is also a mysterious place...

Day 2: Shaolin Temple—a term that instantly excites people—now appeared so vividly before us! Using the auto-narration feature on the Gaode Map app, we could listen to explanations wherever we went in the temple, which was very convenient. Listening to the theme song of 'Shaolin Temple' and seeing the pits where monks practiced martial arts in person gave us a unique feeling. The Erlitou Xia Capital Ruins Museum, not far from Shaolin Temple, was our second stop today. For a long time, archaeological discoveries (such as the Yin Ruins) have confirmed the existence of the Shang Dynasty, but the authenticity of the Xia Dynasty has remained in doubt. The Erlitou archaeological findings are a 'major breakthrough' in the study of the Xia-Shang chronology, though I personally think the lack of the most convincing evidence—written records—is still a great pity. The Erlitou Museum is grand and solemn, with extensive use of information technology, making it worth visiting for history enthusiasts. Near our hotel tonight is the famous White Horse Temple in Luoyang, the first officially established Buddhist temple in Chinese history, known as 'the First Ancient Temple of China'—quite a prestigious title!

Day 3: Under a blazing sun, we visited the Longmen Grottoes in Luoyang, Henan. The facilities at this 5A scenic spot are reliable; we even parked in a cool underground garage. The most representative statue, the Vairocana Buddha at Longmen, is a must-see, said to have been carved based on the appearance of Empress Wu Zetian. During our visit, we noticed many incomplete Buddha statues in the grottoes. Possible reasons include the numerous anti-Buddhist campaigns in history, natural weathering, but more likely the looting by Western powers over the past 200 years. Some precious Buddha heads are still in museums in Europe and America, which is truly lamentable... Leaving Longmen Grottoes, we continued driving westward to our next stop—Mount Huashan, the Western Mountain!

Day 4: Mount Huashan, the Western Mountain, is magnificent and splendid! With cable cars on both the West Peak and North Peak, the once forbidding natural barrier of Huashan is no longer out of reach. Today, we ascended from the West Peak and descended from the North Peak, especially experiencing the thrilling Plank Walk in the Sky! Although we took over 25,000 steps and returned to the hotel exhausted, we knew in our hearts: Huashan was well worth the trip!

Day 5: In the morning, we set out from the foot of Huashan and drove a hundred kilometers to the Emperor Qinshihuang's Mausoleum Site Museum in Lintong, Xi'an. Only by being there can you truly feel the pulse of Chinese civilization and the profound depth of Chinese history! The terracotta warriors we saw are just the tip of the iceberg of the underground treasures of the Qin Emperor's mausoleum. Archaeological excavations are still ongoing, and I believe there will be more exciting discoveries in the future! Our second stop was the Huaqing Palace at the foot of Lishan Mountain, less than 10 km from the Qin Mausoleum. Besides some newly built imitation ancient buildings, the highlights of Huaqing Palace should be the Huaqing Hot Springs and the Five-Jian Hall. The former are historical remains of royal bathing in the Tang Dynasty, along with the love story of Emperor Li Longji (Tang Minghuang) and Yang Yuhuan; the latter is the site of the 'Xi'an Incident,' with bullet holes still visible on the walls, as if telling us about that historical turning point that changed the course of China's War of Resistance. While Hangzhou was in deep water, Xi'an was scorching! After several days of travel, my neck has turned quite dark. But finally, we arrived in Xi'an!! The night in Xi'an doesn't get dark until after 8 PM. The Shuyuan Gate is right at the hotel entrance, and nearby are the Xi'an City Wall, the Bell and Drum Towers, and the Muslim Quarter. A casual stroll nearby gives a very Xi'an experience.

Day 6: During the day, we holed up in the hotel, intimidated by Xi'an's scorching sun; moreover, after several consecutive days of sightseeing, we really needed some time to rest. At dusk, we set out again. Our first stop was Yongxingfang near the Zhongshan Gate on the east city wall. Here, one can sample almost all Shaanxi delicacies. Compared with the Muslim Quarter, Yongxingfang feels more authentic and down-to-earth. No wonder locals would rather come to Yongxingfang to satisfy their cravings. We had dinner at Yongxingfang, then climbed the Xi'an City Wall. Under the night lights, the wall looked even more majestic. This is the best-preserved and largest ancient city wall in the world. The ups and downs of the Xi'an City Wall reflect a legendary and eventful history. When in Xi'an, how can one not ascend the Xi'an City Wall?

Day 7: Today we joined a local day trip in Xi'an to visit Maoling (Mausoleum of Emperor Wu of Han), Qianling (Mausoleum of Emperor Gaozong and Wu Zetian), and Famen Temple. This is a route we have long desired, because for a family that loves history, there are so many stories here. As the saying goes, 'Emperor Qin and Emperor Wu of Han.' The tomb of Emperor Qin is at the foot of Lishan Mountain, while that of Emperor Wu of Han is Maoling. Excavation has just begun, but national treasures like 'Horse Stepping on a Xiongnu Soldier' have already been discovered. Qianling is the joint burial tomb of Empress Wu Zetian and Emperor Li Zhi (Tang Gaozong). We finally saw the famous Wordless Stele. Wu Zetian, as the only female emperor in Chinese history, is admirable for her tenacity, persistence, wisdom, and decisiveness. The archaeological findings in the underground palace of Famen Temple once shocked the world, especially the discovery of the finger bone relic of the Buddha, which demonstrates Famen Temple's supreme status in Buddhism. At the same time, 2,499 Tang Dynasty artifacts were found, showcasing a glorious Tang Dynasty. After days of high temperatures, Xi'an was hit by a torrential rain today. We returned from our trip soaking wet, but with a full harvest, what do we have to fear from wind and rain?

Day 8: To visit the Shaanxi History Museum, you must make a reservation at least 2 days in advance. We only succeeded in getting tickets by setting an alarm at 4 AM the day before. The exhibits on display at the Shaanxi History Museum are just a fraction of its entire collection, but they are already enough to pride itself before the world. Most of the exhibits are originals, showing the museum's deep holdings. On the way, we visited Ci'en Temple and the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, iconic buildings of Xi'an, famous worldwide due to the Tang Dynasty monk Xuanzang. The Mausoleum of the Yellow Emperor has always been a place we yearned for, because the Yellow Emperor is the common ancestor of the Chinese nation! In the parking lot, we saw cars from all over the country, showing the importance of the Yellow Emperor's Mausoleum in the hearts of Chinese people. Our daughters are named with the characters 'Xuan' and 'Yuan' (Zhang Lexuan and Zhang Leyuan). Today, they took a photo together in front of the Xuanyuan Temple at the Mausoleum of the Yellow Emperor, which was particularly meaningful. At dusk, we safely arrived in Yan'an, the sacred place of the Chinese Revolution.

Day 9: Yan'an, the cradle and sacred place of the Chinese Revolution. Today we successively visited Pagoda Mountain, the Yan'an Revolutionary Memorial Hall, the Yangjialing Revolutionary Site, and Zaoyuan. What impressed me most was the power of faith! Long live Chairman Mao!

Day 10: The Hukou Waterfall on the Yellow River was even more awe-inspiring than I imagined, with an irresistible thunderous momentum! Our hotel was right inside the scenic area. Stepping out the door, we had a panoramic view of the Hukou Waterfall, and with the roar of the water, we could even fall into a deep sleep. Also, the local Yellow River carp was delicious! Leaving the Hukou Waterfall, we ended our trip and returned to Hangzhou.