Enshi's Freshness, Three Gorges' Grandeur — A Self-Drive Tour of Hunan and Hubei (Part 2)

D1 8/30 Beijing-Qufu 544km Qufu Kongfu Atour Hotel

D2 8/31 Qufu-Hefei 498km Anhui Parkview Hotel

D3 9/1 Hefei-Wuhan 377km Wuhan Donghu Hotel

D4 9/2 Wuhan-Yueyang-Changde 206+182km Changde Liuyuan Jinjiang Hotel

D5 9/3 Changde-Zhangjiajie 168km Pullman Zhangjiajie

D8 9/6 Zhangjiajie-Fenghuang 231km Fengyu Chenxi Hotel

D10 9/8 Fenghuang-Enshi 405km Enshi Xuanyu International Grand Hotel

D13 9/11 Enshi-Yichang 294km Holiday Inn Express Yichang Yangtze

D15 9/13 Yichang-Yichuan 574km Holiday Inn Express Yichuan Binhe

D16 9/14 Yichuan-Luoyang 34km Luoyang Luoyin Hotel

D17 9/15 Luoyang-Xinxiang 188km Xinxiang CC Zhizhen Hotel

D18 9/16 Xinxiang-Beijing 630km

To celebrate emerging from the shadow of the epidemic, Hubei Province waived admission fees for all A-level scenic spots from August to the end of the year. We took the opportunity to visit several scenic spots in Hubei, starting with Enshi. National Geographic describes Enshi: 'The Qingjiang River is a river full of mystery. From its source, it plays hide-and-seek with people, now visible, now hidden, now above ground, now underground. According to incomplete statistics, there are 87 underground rivers in the Qingjiang River basin, 58 of which are longer than 2 kilometers. In Lichuan's Tenglong Cave, the Qingjiang River drops from an aboveground river into an underground karst cave, with a drop of more than 20 meters. The sound of the water is like thunder, forming a magnificent 'Crouching Dragon Swallowing the River' waterfall. On both sides of the river, there are majestic gorges with towering cliffs and precipices. In addition, the entire Qingjiang River basin is dotted with stone forests and peak clusters, alternating mountains and hills, coexisting karst and Danxia landforms, with peculiar peaks, strange caves, odd gorges, and flying waterfalls everywhere.' We arrived at Enshi at noon. Online we found Shua Ba Ren Flavor Building. The shop was clean. We ordered a pot of stewed chicken and a few dishes. It was quite delicious, especially the potato rice, which not only had Enshi small potatoes but also carrots, green beans, etc. It was cooked with lard, making it especially fragrant. We each had second or third helpings. The shop also provided honeydew melon and watermelon. Although free, the quality was not shoddy. In the afternoon, we strolled to Tusi City. The Jiujin Hall was like a castle, quite large in scale, carefully built with exquisite carvings, especially the extremely fine wood carvings. The structure inside was quite complex, with many twists and turns and countless stairs, exhausting. After the visit, we took a taxi to Zhangguan Hezha. Hezha is a very famous local dish. It was the first time we heard of it in Enshi, so curiosity drove us to try it. The shop was large with many people. Low tables and small bamboo chairs should be a local feature, but it was a bit uncomfortable to eat. We could only order a hot pot set menu, 60 yuan per person. We ordered one portion of meat, and the rest was provided by the shop. Each dish could be replenished, and we cooked many vegetables. In addition to the dishes for cooking, they also gave many cooked dishes. The roasted potato slices were very tasty. More than ten kinds of dishes filled the table. Like hot pot, hezha was also served in a pot on the table heated over a fire. It was minced meat stewed with tofu curd. After stewing for a while, the meat flavor would infuse the tofu, making it delicious. Both meals were around 200 yuan. The next morning, we set off for Earth Heart Valley. Originally, we wanted to go to Enshi Grand Canyon, but we called in advance and found that two of the three major attractions in the Grand Canyon were not open, so we had to replace it with Earth Heart Valley. Earth Heart Valley is nearly 100 kilometers northeast of Enshi. It should have been built by the local government and does not belong to the national park. Although we booked tickets online in advance, we still had to pick up tickets at the entrance. The ticket office was small, with many people queuing, extremely chaotic. Only two of the three windows were open. We queued in two lines at the same time. The staff had to enter ID information into the system to issue tickets, but the network seemed slow. It took a long time to issue one ticket. Soon my queue stopped moving. I heard the computer had a problem. The staff said they would call someone to fix it, and then used the third window's computer to issue tickets. Soon a queue formed at the third window. Relying on our numbers, we also joined that queue. Perhaps for convenience, the staff later directly took IDs and issued tickets from the third window. My queue immediately erupted, the noise almost lifting the roof. We luckily got our tickets from the third window and quickly fled the scene. After entering, there were two paths: the glass bridge cost 80 yuan, and the mountain path was free. The scenic area was designed as a one-way route; visitors could only walk along the plank road until the exit. The scenic area shuttle cost 30 yuan and ran from the parking lot to the entrance, quite a distance, so we had to take it. The 'Sky Magic Carpet' was a conveyor belt between two mountains, costing 35 yuan. One could also walk down the mountain path. We chose to take the magic carpet. The plank road first ran along the cliff halfway up the mountain, then descended to the water's edge. From the cliff, one could overlook the river. There were several peculiar rocks shaped like humans, apes, and tigers, nothing particularly special. At the bottom of the valley, the style changed dramatically. Both sides were lined with high cliffs covered with lush green plants. Near the water, the stone walls were cut into strips and layers. The air was moist. The river sang happily, its flow sometimes fast, sometimes slow. Where fast, white waves rolled; where slow, a pool of thick green. There were also several small cascading waterfalls. By some stagnant pools, garbage and foam had accumulated, spoiling the beauty. The stone walls on both sides were eroded into various swirl shapes, some smooth white, some covered with green moss, and some perhaps stained brown by minerals in the water. Large and small stone caves gaped like skull eye sockets looking up at the sky, formed by water erosion. This was the first time I had seen such a landscape. Earth Heart Valley got its name from a heart-shaped deep pool. Further on, the water surface widened. There was a water swing hanging quietly in the air. This internet-famous spot was now closed to visitors; otherwise, one could take a raft and swing on it. At the end of the valley plank road, there was a thousand-year-old crape myrtle sacred tree. Crossing a stone bridge led to the Ba-Yan Ancient Road. A mountain showed clear, neat diagonal textures, probably formed by uplift at one end. After climbing a section of mountain path, we took the sky magic carpet to the exit. Back in Enshi, it was already afternoon. We found a Sichuan restaurant to fill our stomachs. The portions were large, strong in flavor, and spicy. At 140 yuan, we couldn't complain. In the evening, we went to Daughter's City to enjoy the atmosphere. This place is famous for the 'bowl-smashing liquor.' We didn't eat there but entered a restaurant to feel the vibe. I think it was Tujia Courtyard. Even before entering, we heard a tumult. On stage, a folk song and dance performance was underway. Beside the tables, Tujia-dressed girls were urging guests to drink. I couldn't hear what they said, but several people cooperated. The person being urged seemed to be someone of status, already red-faced and stammering, barely holding on. After drinking, naturally, they smashed the bowl. There were several groups of urging girls. I don't know how they targeted customers. This should be a way to increase income. The debris on the ground testified to how much liquor had been drunk. We strolled casually along the street. A few clothing shops had some character. The handicrafts were not high quality. There was a local specialty exhibition, half exhibit half sale. Many snack stalls existed, but we were already full. We only bought two glutinous rice cakes to try. They were grilled on an iron rack for a few minutes, then sprinkled with brown sugar or something to add flavor. They were mediocre. While eating the rice cakes, we waited for the folk performance to start. A line of actors next to us was ready. The leading old man had an extraordinary demeanor; he should be playing the bride's father, a leader, or a village chief. The performance was set at a cross street. Already several layers of people surrounded it. By the time the bride's father, mother, and attendants walked to the center of the venue, we could see nothing, only hear the deafening music. This was a wedding scene. Afterward, they would walk along the street to the bridal chamber in the north. It was said they would pick a groom from the tourists. We didn't watch to the end and left. On the third day, we went to Suobuyi Stone Forest. After exiting the expressway and driving a short way on a county road, two cars ahead collided, scattering debris and broken glass all over. My husband was afraid of a flat tire and insisted on not going forward. We gave way, and the cars behind all drove over. We waited a long time for the police to handle it, but no one cleaned the road. My husband described the dire consequences of a flat tire several times and said, 'Let's go back.' Although I was reluctant to turn back only 10 kilometers from the destination, I knew his temperament and had to agree. I suggested not wasting the day and going to Tenglong Cave instead. Everyone agreed. Tenglong Cave is said to be either the largest cave in Asia or the world, about fifty kilometers long, with about 6 kilometers currently open to tourists. We arrived near noon, and there were few tourists at the entrance. After walking in for a while, we reached a huge space where a Tujia song and dance drama was being performed. We found seats in the dark. I think there were at least a few hundred seats. The performance was also about marriage. We watched for a while and then came out. The dream laser show was further inside, so we didn't go deeper. Tenglong Cave, apart from its vastness, had little to see. It was still under renovation and improvement. If they added boat rides on the underground river, it might be more interesting. Before entering the cave, we saw a restaurant on Lichuan street celebrating its opening with drums and gongs. So after coming out, we ate there. Although it had just opened, the floor, tables, and bathroom felt greasy and dirty, but it was spacious and bright, and the value for money was decent. Enshi has developed through tourism. New streets and bridges have been built. Along the Qingjiang River, there are some high-end residential buildings. The Xuanyu International Grand Hotel where we stayed was by the river. The old city and streets looked shabby. Five- or six-story residential buildings without elevators were dusty. The department stores had a last-century feel, selling relatively low-end goods. Vegetable and fruit prices were not low. We bought a pound of chestnuts for over 20 yuan, comparable to Beijing. The hotel we stayed at was not the best in Enshi but should be among the top. Coincidentally, a conference had filled the hotel, and our two rooms were not on the same floor. Breakfast was also quite full. There were many breakfast items, mainly Chinese food, but the quality was the worst among the hotels on this trip. After concluding the three-day Enshi itinerary, we headed to Yichang. We arrived at noon and first looked for a restaurant. No.1 Fishing Port seemed to share a parking lot with other units. No parking spots were available, so we had to park in front of another car. There weren't many customers inside. We wanted to sit in a brighter area, but the waitress asked us to sit near other customers for her convenience. The restaurant was quite large, but the lighting was insufficient. The signature fat fish was nearly 200 yuan per pound, not cheap, but truly delicious. After eating the fish, we cooked some vegetables. The dried crucian carp was also tasty. The recommended 'fire cake' (huoshao mo) was mediocre. After lunch, we checked in and headed straight to the Three Gorges Dam. Yichang's streets were clean, with good greenery. They built a dedicated Three Gorges Highway to the dam, a fully enclosed road easy to drive, but there were too few entrances and exits, requiring detours. The speed limit was 60-80 km/h, too conservative. There was a checkpoint verifying booked tickets, ID cards, and vehicle permits. We set the navigation to Three Gorges Dam. We passed the visitor center, hesitated, but continued following navigation. Just as we were about to arrive, a checkpoint blocked the way. The person in the booth said we could not go further and had to take the scenic area shuttle. We had to return to the visitor center. The visitor center was large, with a building on the north side of the road and a parking lot plus food stalls on the south side. The parking lot had one entrance and one exit. Pedestrians could only walk through a central passage flanked by stalls. Whether you bought or not, you had to pass through the smell. Parking cost 10 yuan. I don't know what the first floor of the north building was used for. We went up to the second floor to board the shuttle. The elevator only went up, not down. The shuttle cost 35 yuan. The large bus first stopped at Tanziling, where one could overlook the dam and enjoy a panoramic view. There were open-air elevators to the platform. From the other side, going downhill and taking an elevator, we reached the five-step ship lock with two channels. No ships were passing. West of Tanziling was the 185 platform, named for its altitude of 185 meters, right next to the dam. Between the two points, one could walk or take an electric cart for 10 yuan. From the 185 platform, buses returned to the visitor center. One could also visit the Dam Closure Memorial Park and look up at the dam. It was said that each closure stone weighed 25 tons, and the heavy dump trucks used to carry these stones were imported from the United States. My husband didn't want to go, so we went directly to the parking lot and drove back. This scenic spot was unusual, under military-style management, low on fun, and lacking in technical explanations. Originally there was a documentary, but it was suspended due to the epidemic. The staff had poor attitudes, shouting at people like prisoners. The next day, we went to Three Gorges People. This is a highly rated 5A scenic spot located in Xiling Gorge, consisting of three areas: Mountain People, Water People, and Streamside People. This time we understood. We went directly to the transfer center. The parking lot was large and free, but the surface was uneven, and stalls were scattered everywhere, like a flea market. Again, to buy tickets and board the bus, we had to go upstairs, climbing from outside. I really don't understand why they can't make it convenient for tourists. The combined ticket for bus and boat was 50 yuan. We took a long winding bus ride to the dock, then took a boat across the river. The weather was bad, spoiling the scenery, but tourists still scrambled to take photos. After crossing, we first went to the streamside area, the most photogenic. The water was an intense emerald green. Bamboo groves leaned over the water surface. There were stone bridges, fish nets, water wheels, white geese in the water, and cormorants on rafts. Female performers in red clothes stood on small sailboats holding umbrellas, occasionally singing folk songs. Male performers in yellow stood on bamboo rafts playing flutes. Laundresses pretended to wash clothes while loudly inviting visitors to watch folk performances. Smoke was sprayed intermittently along the shore. It was very suitable for photography, but too repetitive to capture anything new. There were too many tourists, all herded onto a single path along the plank road, very crowded. We crossed the Magpie Bridge and turned back. Here there was another wedding performance. The sounds of blowing and beating, along with tourists' cheers, could be heard from far away. We happened to see the bride and groom descend from upstairs for the ceremony. Trumpeters, matchmakers, maids, etc., flanked the newcomers, passing before my eyes one by one. Only the groom wore a mask, probably a tourist playing the role. Back at the stone bridge, after walking along the river for a while, it was the uphill path. If we wanted to take the cable car up the mountain, we had to go to the other boat dock. Seeing the mountain was not very high, we decided to climb. The uphill path was steep, not easy climbing, but there was no turning back. In the midst of the strenuous climb, we heard a melodious flute sound. Searching around, we found it came from a small pavilion on a solitary mountain opposite. I didn't see any tourist on that mountain. This performer probably saw no one all day. I greatly admired his professionalism. We continued to Dengying Stone. From here, one could take the cable car down, but would miss various performances in the stockade: Nanyin (southern music), ironwork, Nüshu (women's script), shadow puppetry, sorcery, ancient instruments, wedding performances, etc., all scheduled at specific times. After the epidemic, performances had not fully resumed. We only caught the latter part of a Nanyin performance: five people each holding an instrument, singing while playing, somewhat reminiscent of Suzhou Pingtan. We also encountered a group dressed as salt porters resting by the roadside. On our return, we had an afternoon meal at a restaurant called 'Zijiren' in a downtown commercial building. It was good value for money. In Yichang, we chose the Holiday Inn Express Yichang Yangtze. The large balcony overlooked the Yangtze River. The outdoor view was excellent. Indoors, it was unremarkable, with simple facilities and low-quality materials. The drain leaked. The welcome fruit was one apple, a carton of yogurt, and two small snack packs. It would be better not to give such stingy gifts. The room was spacious and bright, which we were satisfied with. Breakfast had few varieties but was palatable. My husband had two dinners in the hotel, very simple set meals. The hotel seemed reluctant to serve, saying they had a banquet and no time to serve him. They barely fried one dish to get by. Nevertheless, it was worth the 249 yuan per night. After leaving Yichang, we headed to Luoyang. Since the Longmen Grottoes are in southern Luoyang, we decided to stay overnight in Yichuan first to avoid backtracking. My husband said gasoline in Henan contains ethanol, so we had to fill up before leaving Hubei. At the first gas station, we thought it was too early and planned to fill up at the next one. Unexpectedly, we immediately entered Henan. No matter, ethanol is fine. We arrived at a service area, but it was closed. We had to drive on. When we reached Nanyang, a big city, we thought there would be no problem. The service area was open, but the gas station was out of service, directing us to cross the road to the other side. When we went there, there was no 95-octane gasoline. By then, the fuel gauge was in the red zone. Panic set in. My husband complained incessantly. The navigation showed the next gas station over 30 kilometers away, a small station. To reach a large station would be 70-80 kilometers. The weather was hot, we needed air conditioning. Luckily, the road was good. We drove cautiously, not accelerating, coasting at 80-90 km/h. Finally, we made it to a large gas station and filled up with 95-octane gasoline. Everyone breathed a sigh of relief. This was the most thrilling experience of the trip! Yichuan is a small county town. The central area was well-developed. The roads along the Yi River were wide and beautiful. We stayed at the Holiday Inn Express Binhe, by the river. The building seemed new, very clean, with few guests. Breakfast was also abundant, and we got to try hulatang (pepper hot soup). In the evening, we went to Old Luoyang Noodle House for local specialties. It opened at 6 p.m. The staff were very enthusiastic. They recommended the signature dishes: hutu noodles (mushy noodles) and jiang noodles (sour noodle soup). We ordered two more dishes. Very home-style and comfortable. I liked the mild, soft, and smooth hutu noodles. For 71 yuan, four people were full. The next morning, we went to the Longmen Grottoes. There seemed to be two parking lots, one on each side of the river. We were already on the west bank, and there are more Buddha statues on the west mountain, so we parked at the northwest gate parking lot. From there, we had to walk almost a kilometer to reach 'Longmen.' The visitor center had just been built, again a commercial street, not yet leased out. The scenic area's desire to make money is always undisguised. The grottoes were first built during the reign of Emperor Xiaowen of the Northern Wei, flourished in the Tang, and ended in the Qing. Over 1,400 years, two-thirds of the niches were built during Wu Zetian's era. The most famous Vairocana Buddha was carved according to Wu Zetian's features. It can be said to be a royal grotto. When the niches were built, they were painted. Now only a few places show faded colors. Despite severe damage, there are still 2,345 niches and over 110,000 statues on both sides. Some niches are under renovation. Passing through Longmen, after the unremarkable Yuwang Pool, we first arrived at the Binyang Three Caves, representative of the Northern Wei royal caves. Only the middle cave was completed. The statues in the north and south caves were added in the Tang Dynasty. Further on was the Ten Thousand Buddhas Cave, with over 15,000 small Buddha statues on both sides, most of them unrecognizable. Then came Lotus Cave, etc. Further on was the Vairocana Buddha. Not far past the big Buddha, there was a bridge to the east bank. Climbing the east bank was strenuous, and there were not many statues to see, so many gave up. I don't understand Buddhism and couldn't distinguish which Buddha or Bodhisattva each was. What attracted me was the variety of postures and expressions of the statues here, completely different from the stereotype of monotonous Buddha statues. There were ones with wide eyes, whether frightened or shy; ones beaming with laughter; ones with muscular bodies but awkward poses; ones with fat faces and double chins like Tang dynasty court ladies; and of course the 'V-sign' hand. It was said that the original gesture was thumb, index, and middle fingers pointing up (a type of mudra), but the thumb broke off, resulting in the peace sign. One niche had cracked, and a small grass grew right next to the Buddha's head. The face of the Thousand-Armed Guanyin was unclear, but each finger was visible. Taking time to savor was quite interesting. My husband was tired and hungry. I asked him to exit through the east gate and wait for us at the parking lot, then we would all go to eat at Dongshan Hotel. The grotto ticket cost 90 yuan, and we had to swipe tickets four times for four areas. Urged by my husband, I hurried through Xiangshan Temple. The temple was first built in the Northern Wei, rebuilt under Wu Zetian. Bai Juyi lived here in his later years and donated to repair the then dilapidated temple. Chiang Kai-shek and Soong Mei-ling also resided here. No time to visit Bai Garden. I rushed to the west gate parking lot, drove to the east gate to pick him up, and went to eat. Dongshan Hotel had a beautiful environment, suitable for conferences. In the vast dining room, only our table was occupied. The environment and service were naturally good. The dishes were not cheap. I searched the menu and ordered four low-priced dishes for 260 yuan. The taste was quite good. In the afternoon, we checked into Luoyin Hotel in Luoyang. This new-style hotel is located in a creative park transformed from the former Yituo factory area. It has good design. The public area on the first floor looks like a tropical garden. The rooms were spacious, the service warm. We could also watch free movies at the adjacent cinema. The only drawback was that breakfast was too simple. We suggested they cooperate with a restaurant in the park so guests could have breakfast there. In the evening, we strolled in the old town. Shops lined up, mostly selling peony cakes and various sweets supposedly made from peony flowers. Restaurants mainly sold noodles or water feasts (Luoyang-style soups). Business was sluggish. At the cross street, we found the 'Sweet Heart Xian Sheng' that others had reviewed. Excited, we went in to try and found it very tasty. This should be a Sichuan-style dessert shop combining ice jelly (bingfen) with ice cream, fruits, and various dessert elements. It was refreshing and cool. During the taxi ride, we chatted with the driver. They were basically the second generation of old state-owned enterprises. They experienced the glory days of state-owned enterprises as children, then various layoffs and buyouts. Now they live in old apartment buildings, using their savings to buy a car and work as drivers. They should be considered middle class, though some are better off, some worse. Tourism brings far less income than industry. They all have fond memories of Luoyang in the early days of the People's Republic, when state-owned enterprises dominated (Luoyang was then more prosperous than Zhengzhou), and they sincerely accept Luoyang today. Overall, Luoyang has low prices, a laid-back lifestyle. Streets and buildings are shabby. But Luoyang's old town seamlessly connects with its surroundings, ancient and modern interpenetrating. It is not for show; it is living. That's what I like. Of course, there is also a clean and beautiful new district. After some debate, the next day's plan was: morning at Luoyang Museum, lunch at a water feast restaurant, check out, then afternoon visit to White Horse Temple. Luoyang Museum is magnificent, with an Egyptian style. A jarring note was a garbage can placed in a prominent spot. Actually, no one needs to throw trash here, and even if they do, they shouldn't put it there. The museum has two floors. The first floor has three exhibition halls introducing Luoyang's history, with rich and exquisite exhibits. Volunteers provide guided tours at scheduled times daily. The second floor has several thematic exhibitions. The Han brick paintings were interesting. It seems improper to visit Luoyang without trying a water feast. We chose Luoyang Water Feast Garden because it was close to our hotel. The environment was okay, but hygiene was poor. Spacious but dim. The tablecloth was dark and had holes. The bathroom sink was not clean, and the water flow was weak. We ordered two signature dishes: Peony Swallow Dish (mainly radish, relatively light) and Sliced Meat in Soup (basically pepper soup cooked with meat, thick soup, very tough meat). Another fish fillet dish was okay, also sour and spicy. The egg pancake was crispy and fragrant. We all liked it. My understanding of water feast is that it starts with a big pot of pepper soup in the morning, and then all ingredients are cooked and ladled with this soup. Given the history of White Horse Temple, its status in Buddhism, and its existing treasures, it is a fitting final destination. Built in 68 AD, White Horse Temple was the first temple after Buddhism was introduced to China. It is revered as the ancestral temple and source of Chinese Buddhism. The temple's main compound is small, ancient, elegant, and quiet, without swirling incense smoke. The Ming dynasty gate, Song dynasty stone horses, and Yuan dynasty dry lacquer statues give the temple a weighty feel. Unfortunately, the Great Buddha Hall is not open, so we couldn't see the temple's treasure. The eastern part is the most scenic: a mountain, a lake, and a hall. The Qiyun Pagoda is delicate and pretty. The western part comprises newly built Indian, Thai, and Burmese-style temples. Apart from the architecture, they are empty inside. The two horses outside the mountain gate have lowered heads and meek expressions, seemingly contemplative, with a thinker's demeanor. We made a quick tour, encountering a sudden downpour. The ticket cost 35 yuan. After leaving White Horse Temple, we arrived in Xinxiang. We rested one night at CC Zhizhen Hotel, preparing for the long journey home the next day. The hotel was nice, clean, and comfortable, with a hearty breakfast. Unfortunately, there were too few elevators and too many floors. Waiting for an elevator was maddening. The return to Beijing went smoothly, except for a 40–50 minute queue at the entry checkpoint. Looking back at photos, I always see masks in corners, fully reflecting the characteristics of this special historical period.