18-Day Self-Guided Tour of Xi'an, Luoyang, Yuntai Mountain, and Kaifeng in Autumn

Total cost for two: ¥8k = homestay 3k + flights and high-speed rail 1k + long-distance buses 1k + food 2k + tickets 1k

Total 18 days: Xi'an 6 nights, Luoyang 5 nights, Yuntai Mountain 3 nights, Kaifeng 3 nights

D1: 2020-10-09 Friday October

Departed at 8:20 by express ride ¥182, 61km, arrived at Beijing Daxing International Airport at 9:10. Self-check-in kiosk, checked one suitcase. First time at Daxing Airport; the octopus-shaped architecture by Iraqi designer Zaha Hadid is quite distinctive.

"Boarding" 1: Orange fish octopus lands at Daxing, curves graceful against the sky screen; Peng birds take off and land across the seas, all continents cloudy but here sunny alone.

11:20 boarded, 12:00 cabin door closed, China Eastern MU2256, shared with China Southern and Xiamen Airlines. Aircraft type A330, dual aisle, seats 2+4+2 per row, capacity 300. Load factor 95%, ticket price ¥350/person. 12:20 took off, 14:00 arrived at Xianyang Airport. Exited airport by scanning Xi'an health QR code via WeChat. 15:00 took airport bus ¥25/person, arrived at Xi'an North Station (high-speed rail) at 15:40; transferred to Metro Line 2, got off at Anyuanmen Station, arrived at Beishaomen Gongyuan Mei Apartment at 16:30.

Along the roads and pedestrian streets, the entire Wei Yang Street had many sections under construction digging and repairing sidewalks, making the city look untidy. Checked into a 20th-floor homestay-style apartment, electronic door lock, password sent by manager via WeChat. Building area 45m², usable area about 30m². Xi'an metro and buses can be paid by scanning the bus QR code in WeChat app.

Booked online tickets for the Qin Shi Huang Museum - Terracotta Warriors for Saturday 10-10, entry time slots 8:30-10:30; 10:30-12:00. Standard ticket ¥120/person, half price for seniors over 65 and students. At that time, 5k tickets remained online; next day had over 6k, indicating fewer tourists.

Left apartment, walked 800m north to a 4th-floor commercial building. 17:30 had a large platter: one serving of Saozi noodles (6 small bowls) ¥23, three roujiamo ¥18, one green bamboo shoot with mushrooms ¥19, total ¥60. Basically two people were full.

Went out, took bus No. 37 south 5 stops, ¥1/person, got off at Zhonglou North Station at 18:30, walked west into Huimin Street, enjoyed night views and old city residential areas. The alleys in the old city are narrow, only one car can pass, somewhat dilapidated. Probably not on main roads, the government lacks funds to demolish old houses. Walked back to Anyuanmen at 19:50, took bus No. 228 for 2 stops to Beishaomen.

"Qin" 2: Xianyang Weiyang passes through Bell Tower, Anyuan tower high spans millennia; Qingzhen lights bright, crowds bustling, lamb paomo flavor endless.

D2: 2020-10-10 Saturday October

Woke up 6:30, left apartment 7:40, took Metro Line 2 then Line 1 to Fangzhicheng Station ¥4/person, 8:45 transferred to You5 (306) bus ¥5/person, 1h ride, arrived at Terracotta Warriors - Mausoleum of Qin Shi Huang Museum at 9:45. Visited Pit 1 at 10:10, Pit 2 at 10:55, Pit 3 at 11:15, Bronze Chariots Hall at 11:50, left museum at 12:05.

Took shuttle bus to Lishan Garden, i.e., the Mausoleum of Qin Shi Huang, ticket included. Entered Lishan Garden at 13:00, met a free guide No. 66, male, about 55? Northern Chinese. Gave a detailed explanation of the Qin Mausoleum.

"Imperial Tomb" Ying Zheng's soldiers and horses over millennia, the spirit of tiger and wolf has been passed on. Unified writing and tracks, peace under heaven is the hope.

The location of the Qin Mausoleum originally belonged to Lintong County; after the terracotta warriors were discovered, it was taken over by Xi'an city and became Lintong District. Now the mausoleum is directly under national management, revenue goes to the state. The mausoleum area is 56km². It has been confirmed that there are 619 burial pits underground, only a few have been excavated. Current archaeological technology cannot effectively protect unearthed artifacts after excavation, such as color oxidation. The original mound soil was brought from Handan, Henan, and was fried; originally no plants could grow on the mound, and no animals. The mound height was said to be one zhang for each year of the emperor's age; Qin Shi Huang died at 49.5, so the mound should be 50 zhang, equivalent to 115 meters in modern units.

The Terracotta Warriors pit was discovered in 1976 by 7 male villagers digging a well. The well mouth was 5 meters in diameter, and they unearthed the head of a high-ranking general. The villagers were terrified due to superstition, thinking they had dug up the Earth God, hurried home, brought incense and worshipped at the well. That night, one villager took the unearthed head to the local county cultural center, which then reported to municipal and provincial cultural heritage departments.

The relevant department gave the villager 40 work points, equivalent to about ¥60. But when he returned to the village, the villagers ostracized him and his family because he had offended the Earth God, bringing bad luck to the villagers. Even his children were rejected by teachers and couldn’t attend school. He had to move out of the village to a remote dilapidated house. It wasn’t until a foreign president visited the Terracotta Warriors and wanted to meet this villager that people found him again. They asked him to sign, but he only had second-grade education and couldn’t write well. He drew a circle and pressed his thumbprint in the middle.

Later, internal reports reached the central government. The state proceeded with further excavation, thus discovering the Terracotta Warriors pit.

14:20 left Lishan Garden, returned the same way. Originally planned to visit Huaqing Pool, but gave up due to time. On the way back, You5 (306) bus took 1.5h to reach Fangzhicheng metro station. 16:45 arrived at Chaoyangmen Station on Line 1, walked to Yongxingfang Food Park, ate rice noodles ¥12/bowl, not tasty. Had a plate of lamb dumplings, 26 pieces ¥48. 18:30 walked outside the Shaanxi Provincial Government building. Took bus No. 238 for 4 stops to Beishaomen. 19:30 returned to apartment.

Checked Gaode Maps for tomorrow's trip to Qianling, bought tickets online ¥95/person, ¥7 less than normal price.

D3: 2020-10-11 Sunday October, drizzle

Woke up 6:40, left 7:40, Beishaomen Station, Anyuanmen Station, took Metro Line 2, Beidajie Station, transferred to Line 1, Hancheng Road Station, arrived at West Bus Station 8:45, took slow minibus ¥22/person, arrived at Qian County at 11:00, transferred to Qian County bus No. 2 ¥1, arrived at Qianling, exchanged for paper tickets at ticket office, took shuttle minibus ¥30/person, traveled between scenic spots. Rented a taxi for drop-off.

12:00 Tang Prince Zhanghuai’s Tomb, 12:15 Qianling Museum, 13:30 Tang Prince Yide’s Tomb, 13:45 Qianling, left Qianling at 14:50.

"Qianling" 3: Tang Gaozong and Empress liked her, born beautiful and pitiable. All nations come to court under the sky, a tablet without words passed for generations.

Went to Qian County high-speed bus station, but the earliest bus back to Xi’an was at 19:00. Returned to slow bus station, bus departed at 16:00, arrived at Xi’an West Station at 18:10. Took Line 1 to Beidajie, transferred to Line 2, Zhonglou, walked to Xiyangshi at 18:55, walked the entire street, couldn’t find a restaurant selling stir-fry dishes. Ate a bowl of biang biang noodles ¥28, cold jelly ¥10, returned to Beishaomen apartment at 20:15.

D4: 2020-10-12 Monday October

Woke up 7:30, had breakfast at apartment, left 9:00, took bus No. 609 ¥1, arrived at Qujiang Pool Relics Park at 10:20, no ticket, no online reservation needed. The city appearance in southern Xi’an is newer and tidier than the north, with fewer construction sites. Scenery is acceptable; the lake is similar to Yuyuantan Park.

Visited Han Yao Relics, Wang Baochuan’s former residence?

13:10 left Chongyang Square, took bus No. 609, got off east of Big Wild Goose Pagoda, visited the green area around Da Ci’en Temple, viewed the pagoda.

14:00 left, took bus No. 609 back to apartment, 15:15 nap until 16:15, bought a small bottle of Erguotou 56° 2 liang ¥7 at a convenience store, went to Haidilao Hot Pot on the 3rd floor of Longshou Impression City ¥234, finished 18:15. Took metro Line 2-Line 1-Line 4, arrived at Tang Paradise (5A scenic spot) at 19:00, needed advance free online reservation for 19:00-21:00 tour. Climbed the tower to view the scenery, beautiful.

"Night" 4: Tang Paradise truly national beauty, pagoda exquisite sleepless night. Rainbow-feathered garments weave purple willows, lotus flower lake reflects tower lights.

It’s hard to find home-style or Sichuan restaurants in Xi’an, i.e., ones serving stir-fry dishes; most are noodle shops.

D5: 2020-10-13 Tuesday October, drizzle

Woke up 6:30, had breakfast, Xi’an pastries, instant coffee, left apartment 7:30, took Metro Line 2 from Anyuanmen, transferred at Beidajie to Line 1 to Fangzhicheng Station ¥4/person, then bus You5 (603). Arrived at Huaqing Palace at 9:15.

It was raining; shoes were already completely wet when leaving home, so had to take off socks and wear shoes barefoot. Summer breathable hiking shoes are not suitable for rainy season. Strange, October in Xi’an is actually rainy season, drizzly and continuous, unlike Beijing where autumn rain, even if it rains, doesn’t last a week of light rain.

10:25 Bingjian Pavilion, 11:15 Laomu Palace, 12:00 Shangshan Pool, 12:20 Beacon Tower, descended from southwest side, not the same path as ascent, 12:50 Tiger Roar Bridge, 13:00 Liju Pavilion, 13:05 Shiweng Temple, 13:10 Chunv Prayer (Sheshen Cliff), 13:20 Yuxian Bridge, 13:37 Sun and Moon Pavilion, 13:40 Bingjian Pavilion, 14:00 Haitang Pool, Lotus Pool, Star Pool. 14:35 left Huaqing Palace.

"Huaqing Palace" 5: Drizzle steps on Li Mountain misty, in forest climbing peak exploring secrets. Stone tells of Bingjian thrilling night, imperial concubine’s skin like jade after bath. Wishing to see far beacon fire, Tiger Roar Shiweng water mist thick. Visiting Chang’an seeking old places, Taibai Wei River northwest wind.

14:50 took You5 (603) ¥3, returned to Fangzhicheng Line 1, took Line 2 to Longshou Station, had dinner at Impression City Meizhou Dongpo Restaurant ¥179, dry-cooked yellow croaker, stir-fried pork with pointed peppers, sweet potato leaves, 3 bowls of rice.

Ctrip: Homestay booking confirmed: Host has confirmed your order, total ¥795, stay dates: 2020-10-15 to 2020-10-20, 5 nights, Baolong City Plaza G Block Warm Small Home, address: Luoyang Luolong District Dingdingmen Street and Kaiyuan Avenue intersection Baolong City Plaza.

D6: 2020-10-14 Wednesday October

Woke up 9:00, had breakfast, went to Daming Palace Relics Park, entered at 11:00, free; middle part charged ¥60/person, peripheral park free. Exited at 13:50, returned to apartment to rest.

Woke up 17:00, went to residential area, Longshou South Road, ate lamb paomo ¥35/bowl + cold dish platter ¥12.

D7: 2020-10-15 Thursday October

Woke up 7:00, had breakfast, left apartment 9:00, took Metro Line 2 ¥3/person, arrived at Xi’an North Station 9:45, 10:15 G656 departure ¥175/person second class, arrived at Luoyang Longmen Station 11:40.

Took bus No. 75, arrived at Baolong Plaza, G Block Room 2016, ¥159/night, staying 5 nights, building area 45m², looks spacious, double bed better than Xi’an apartment, has internet TV. Went to Shengluoba Seafood BBQ Buffet ¥72/person, ate from 13:15 to 15:00, many diners.

Returned to apartment for afternoon nap. Left at 17:10, took bus No. 75 ¥1/person, went to Sui-Tang Relics Botanical Garden, arrived at Luo River bank at 19:00. 19:35 took bus No. 37, 10 stops, returned to apartment.

D8: 2020-10-16 Friday October, cloudy

Woke up 7:00, 8:00 breakfast at a small shop: hulatang ¥6/bowl, scallion pancake ¥4/serving. 8:45 took bus No. 99 ¥1.5/person, to Longmen Grottoes ¥90/person ticket, but free for 60+. Estimated 1k visitors, about half retirees.

11:45 walked to Xiangshan Temple; 12:15 walked to Bai Garden (Bai Juyi’s tomb).

Bought flower cakes, 14:00 left park, took bus No. 99 back to apartment. After nap, 17:00 went to Sichuan Restaurant, steamed perch ¥50, stir-fried celery with bacon ¥38, garlic stir-fried bok choy ¥13, rice ¥2/bowl x2, prices lower than Xi’an.

19:00 after dinner took bus to Laoji, got off at Xili Gate 19:30, walked pedestrian street, many people, mostly selling food, looked like locals. Residential buildings in old town very old, mostly 5-7 floors without elevator. 20:20 took bus No. 76 ¥1/person, returned to Baolong Plaza G Block.

D9: 2020-10-17 Saturday October

9:05 took bus No. 58 ¥1.5/person, arrived at White Horse Temple 10:20, free for seniors.

12:00 left White Horse Temple to Myanmar Temple scenic area.

13:00 took bus No. 16 to some valley, 13:30 returned from White Horse Temple by bus, 14:30 back to apartment. Rest until 17:00, went to Old House Water Feast, ate yancai, 3 dishes total ¥108.

D10: 2020-10-18 Sunday October

9:00 took bus No. 37, 9:30 Luoyang Museum, free, left 13:10.

Took bus No. 37 to Wangcheng Park, entered 13:50, finished 14:40.

Took bus No. 99 back to Baolong Plaza.

17:50 Youxiang Restaurant, Hangzhou cuisine, but actually Henan-ified, mainly salty, restaurant environment hardware decent. 3 dishes ¥125.

D11: 2020-10-19 Monday October

Took bus 4 stops, arrived at Guanlin (tomb of Guan Yu’s head) 10:00, free. Nothing special. Left 10:45.

Went to China National Garden (Peony Garden) 11:40. Garden large, east-west gate about 2km apart, mainly peonies. Almost no tourists. Nice environment. Left 12:30.

Went to Lijingmen West Street, bought peony flower cakes ¥25/jin (bought 2 jin). Drank a bowl of Bufan soup ¥20/bowl (with beef, vegetarian ¥10/bowl), won’t have a second time.

D12: 2020-10-20 Tuesday October overcast

8:15 left apartment, took bus No. 909 ¥2/person, to Luoyang Bus Station, took Luoyang-Jiaozuo long-distance bus ¥38/person. Gaode Maps suggested getting off at Wuxiu County, but I thought fewer transfers there, so bought ticket to Jiaozuo. Later proved correct, from Wuxiu to Yuntai Mountain is 15km extra. Luoyang departed 10:30, 130km, arrived at Jiaozuo Bus Station 12:45. There was a tourist minibus to Yuntai Mountain for ¥20/person, but waiting long due to few tourists. Switched to taxi, 36km, ¥80 for the car, if carpool 4 people ¥20/person. Arrived at Yuntai Mountain scenic gate, Anshang, 14:00, homestay twin bed room ¥160/night, bargained to ¥120/night, stayed 3 nights.

Had lunch, Muxu Pork ¥38 + Eggplant with long beans ¥35 + rice ¥3x2 = ¥79 for two. At scenic gate, showed ID card, free for 60+ (ticketing system online, swipe ID card to enter), bought bus ticket ¥60/person. Took scenic bus to Red Stone Gorge, entered 15:20. About 100 people in gorge? Not many, but a bit noisy, some shouting, loudspeakers constantly playing announcements or introductions, too noisy. Air visibility about 3km, air pollution index 130, exited gorge 16:30, took bus back to homestay.

Originally planned to visit Wanshou Temple, but closes at 17:00, will go later.

D13: 2020-10-21 Wednesday October, clear with light haze, 21C-8C

Woke up 7:00, had breakfast outside: baozi, youtiao, millet porridge, soy milk ¥12 + Bufan egg yam cake ¥6.

8:15 took shuttle to Yunxi Valley 8:35, checked in at Xiaozhaigou, including: 8:45 Spring Waterfall Gorge, only 4 tourists when we arrived; by the time we left, more were coming; 11:15 Tan Waterfall Gorge; 12:45 Macaque Gorge; 13:10 downhill. Returned to homestay to rest.

15:10 left, took bus to Wanshou Temple 15:20, descended 16:20.

Had dinner, Henan braised noodles, wide noodles in clear broth ¥18 lamb braised noodles/bowl, ¥15 beef braised noodles/bowl, side dish ¥10.

Booked on Ctrip a homestay apartment for 3 nights from 10-23 to 10-26, ¥105/night, building area 60m², has washing machine, can cook. Location: west of Qingming Shanghai River Park, very close.

D14: 2020-10-22 Thursday October, sunny with haze, pollution index 125, air not clear

Woke up 6:45, went out to take photos, breakfast at restaurant ¥16: tofu pudding, soy milk, baozi; 7:40 took scenic shuttle, 8:20 arrived at Zhuyu Peak check-in, climbed Zhuyu Peak, reached summit 9:15, altitude 1279m; descended, reached Glass Walkway at 10:50, top of cable car, level with check-in. Visitor density low, suitable for sightseeing. Asked staff, most guests stay only 1 night, few stay 2, often they don't climb to Zhuyu Peak summit, just take a look and leave. 11:40 exited check-in, 12:00 took shuttle downhill, 12:40 arrived at Anshang service area, returned to homestay to rest.