My Solo Trip to Luoyang

We took a hard-seat green train from Sanmenxia to Luoyang. It took a little over an hour, and the ticket cost 19.5 yuan. Luoyang is located in the central part of the nine ancient regions, spanning the north and south banks of the middle reaches of the Yellow River. To the east it borders Zhengzhou, to the west Sanmenxia, across the Yellow River to the north it meets Jiaozuo, and to the south it connects with Pingdingshan and Nanyang.

Today we start our 4-day tour in Luoyang. First we head to the White Horse Temple. We took a retro bus costing 1 yuan from the train station to the White Horse Temple. The temple ticket is 35 yuan, but seniors enter for free. There are many tour groups today, and it's incredibly crowded. The temple is located 12 km east of the old city of Luoyang, Henan Province, in the White Horse Temple Town of Luolong District. It was founded in the 11th year of Yongping of the Eastern Han Dynasty (68 AD). It is the first ancient temple in China, a world-famous sangharama, and the first officially built temple after Buddhism was introduced to China. It is known as the "Cradle of Chinese Buddhism" and the "Source of Sakyamuni's Teachings," with a history of over 1,900 years. The existing ruins and relics are from the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties. The temple preserves many precious dry-lacquer statues from the Yuan Dynasty, such as the Buddhas of the Three Ages, Two Heavenly Generals, and Eighteen Arhats. In 1961, the White Horse Temple was announced by the State Council of the People's Republic of China as one of the first batch of National Key Cultural Relics Protection Units. In 1983, it was designated by the State Council as a key national temple for Han Buddhism. In January 2001, it was named one of the first batch of AAAA-level scenic spots by the National Tourism Administration. In the 7th year of Yongping of the Eastern Han Dynasty (64 AD), Emperor Ming of Han, Liu Zhuang (son of Liu Xiu), dreamed of a golden figure six zhang tall with a shining head flying around the courtyard while sleeping in the Southern Palace. The next morning, the emperor told his ministers about the dream. The scholar Fu Yi said, "There is a god in the West called Buddha, just as you dreamed." The emperor was overjoyed and sent ministers Cai Yin and Qin Jing and more than ten others to the Western Regions to seek Buddhist scriptures and teachings. In the 8th year of Yongping (65 AD), Cai and Qin left the capital on a ten-thousand-mile journey to seek the scriptures. In the country of Dayuezhi (present-day Afghanistan and Central Asia), they met the Indian eminent monks Kasyapa Matanga and Dharmaratna, saw Buddhist scriptures and a white felt image of Sakyamuni, and earnestly invited the two monks to go east to China to spread the Dharma. In the 10th year of Yongping (67 AD), the two Indian monks agreed and, together with the Eastern Han envoys, carried Buddhist scriptures and statues on a white horse back to the capital Luoyang. Emperor Ming was very pleased when he saw the scriptures and statues, treated the two monks with great respect, and arranged for them to stay temporarily at the "Honglu Temple," the office in charge of foreign affairs. In the 11th year of Yongping (68 AD), Emperor Ming ordered the construction of a monastery outside the Xiyong Gate of Luoyang, three li to the north of the imperial road. To commemorate the white horse that carried the scriptures, it was named "White Horse Temple." The character "si" (temple) originated from the "si" of "Honglu Temple," and later "si" became a general term for Chinese monasteries. Kasyapa Matanga and Dharmaratna translated the "Sutra of Forty-two Chapters" here, which is the first Chinese translation of a Buddhist scripture. After them, many Western eminent monks came to the White Horse Temple to translate scriptures. In the 150 years following 68 AD, 192 scriptures totaling 395 volumes were translated here, making the White Horse Temple the undisputed first translation center in China. In the 2nd year of Jiaping (250 AD), the Indian monk Dharmakala came to the White Horse Temple. By then, Buddhism had spread from the deep palace to the common people. Dharmakala translated the first Chinese Buddhist monastic code, the "Sanghika Vinaya." Around the same time, the Parthian monk Dharmasatva also translated the "Dharmagupta Vinaya" at the temple, regulating monastic community life. Thus, the precepts and monastic organization were complete, paving the way for those in China to become monks and practice the precepts, marking the beginning of the Chinese monastic tradition. In the 5th year of Ganlu (260 AD), an ordination ceremony was held at the White Horse Temple, an event destined to be deeply engraved in Chinese Buddhist history. On that day, Zhu Shixing, following the "Karmavacana," ascended the ordination platform and knelt before the Buddha, becoming the first monk in Chinese history to formally receive full ordination. From then on, the Confucian tradition of "the body, hair, and skin are received from parents and dare not be injured" was broken. The entire process of Buddhism taking root and spreading in China during its first 200 years was closely linked to the White Horse Temple. It was the product of China's first journey to the West for scriptures, the residence of the earliest missionaries to China; here the first Chinese Buddhist scripture and first monastic code were born, and the first Chinese monk was produced. In short, the White Horse Temple is tightly connected with many "firsts" of Chinese Buddhism, making it truly the cradle and source of Chinese Buddhism.

The next day it rained heavily, so we went to Luoyang Guanlin (Guan Yu's Temple). It is located north of the Sui-Tang ancient city, south of the Longmen Grottoes, west of Luolong Avenue, and east of the clear Yi River. It is one of the three major Guan Yu temples in China and the only ancient architectural complex in China that combines "tomb, temple, and forest" in one. It is also a national AAAA-level tourist attraction. The ticket is 30 yuan, and Henan Province is generous: seniors over 60 enter free. For more than 1,780 years, Guanlin has been famous for burying Guan Yu's head. The buildings are towering, with ancient cypresses, and visitors in white and black robes enter as if into a solemn palace, creating a strong Guan Gong cultural atmosphere. In the 20th year of Wanli of the Ming Dynasty (1592), on the original site of the Han Dynasty Guan Temple, it was expanded into a vast sacred area for worshipping Guan Gong, covering over 200 mu (about 13.3 hectares) with four courtyards and more than 150 halls and corridors. The photos below show: the "Thousand Autumns Mirror" tower standing in the square, which was once the place for shadow plays and storytelling about the rise and fall of dynasties; the Ming Dynasty stone lions on both sides of the main gate, crouching majestically with an inviolable dignity. The main gate, full of feudal significance, is studded with 81 golden nails, reflecting Guanlin's lofty status and Guan Yu's posthumous glory. On both sides of the ceremonial gate are iron lions weighing over 3,000 jin (1.5 tons), relics from Ming Dynasty devotees of Guan Gong. Despite over 400 years of wind and rain, they remain solemn and imposing. The plaque "Weiyang Liuhe" (Prestige Extends to All Directions) above the ceremonial gate is the imperial brush of Empress Dowager Cixi, dignified and precious. The stone lion imperial road connecting the ceremonial gate and the worship hall is unique among Guan temples at home and abroad. The balustrade pillars are topped with 104 stone lions, each with a different expression, round and vivid, without any stiffness of stone carving, representing the highest achievement of central plains stone carving art during the Qianlong period. The dance tower (also called the Thousand Autumns Mirror Tower), main gate, ceremonial gate, worship hall, main hall, second hall, third hall, imperial stele pavilion, and Guan Yu's tomb form the grand architectural layout of Guanlin. The main buildings have the largest number of dragon heads in the central plains. The imperial stele pavilion, built during the Kangxi period, has an elegant structure, an octagonal pavilion with elaborate colored decorations and exquisite wood carvings, all joined with wooden tenon-and-mortise joints, reflecting the amazing creativity of ancient architects. The photo below shows: Guan Yu's tomb. It dates from the end of the Han Dynasty and is now covered with green grass, towering and otherworldly. Though the dynasty has changed, the ancient tomb remains. "Guanlin Green Cypresses" is one of the "Eight Small Scenes" of Luoyang. Thousands of ancient cypresses, lush and intertwining, when heavy rain suddenly stops and the sky clears, clouds and mist rise like smoke, like curling incense, drifting around the tomb—a fantastic scene that astonishes everyone. For thousands of years, Guan Yu, as the embodiment of loyalty and righteousness and a moral model, has been widely revered by the people. His "loyalty, righteousness, benevolence, and courage" embody the spirit of the Chinese nation. The special cultural phenomenon of "Guan Gong worship" formed from this has become a bridge and bond connecting Chinese people at home and abroad. Every year on September 29, the Guanlin International Pilgrimage Festival is held here, when overseas Guan temple groups and clan organizations gather at Guanlin for grand worship ceremonies. Guanlin has become a holy place for Chinese people at home and abroad to pay homage and a world-famous tourist attraction. Bus routes 15, 55, 58, and 69 terminate here. It is located at the intersection of Luolong Road and Guanlin Avenue, 300 meters east.

【Best time to visit Luoyang】: Autumn and April are the best seasons to visit Luoyang. Luoyang has four distinct seasons: cold winter with little rain or snow, dry and windy spring, hot and rainy summer with concentrated rainfall, and clear and sunny autumn with long daylight. The annual average temperature is 14.86°C. The best season to visit Luoyang is undoubtedly autumn, "on the ninth day of the ninth month, we climb high." The autumn sky is clear and the air is crisp, perfect for climbing mountains and enjoying chrysanthemums. April has warm weather, and you can enjoy the spectacular sight of countless peonies competing with each other. Especially during the "Peony Festival" from April 1 to May 10 every year, the city is crowded with people and filled with flowers. From late April to mid-May, there is a "Cherry Festival." Luoyang's unique cherries are large, with thick flesh and pure sweet taste. They were a tribute to the imperial court and a fruit for ancestral temple sacrifices during the Han, Wei, Jin, Tang, Song, and earlier dynasties. Go to the "Ten-mile Cherry Valley" to taste the delicious fruit and enjoy the beautiful scenery—you will forget to return.

The next day, we went to the Luoyi Ancient City. It is located in the old city district of Luoyang, full of ancient charm and many historical relics. "Luoyi" was the ancient name of Luoyang. Having been the capital of thirteen dynasties, it has accumulated a deep layer of Chinese culture. Strolling through the Luoyi Ancient City, you see overlapping eaves, orderly arranged city walls, ancient courtyards, old trees, and every corner evokes endless memories. Pavilions, terraces, towers, small bridges, and flowing water add a touch of tranquility and beauty. The Wenfeng Pagoda, Confucian Temple, Tuoling Temple, and other ruins reflect Luoyang's profound historical and cultural heritage. Here, all the banners are fake ones that say "Century-old Shop" and "Intangible Cultural Heritage," clearly made and paid for by the shop owners themselves. Otherwise, how could there be so many "century-old shops" and "intangible cultural heritage"? ... The Luoyi Ancient City, known as the "Central Plains Ferry," is located in the old city district of Luoyang, Henan Province. The scenic area includes the Wenfeng Pagoda, Henan Prefecture Confucian Temple, Tuoling Temple, Four-eye Well, and the ruins of the Jin and Yuan dynasty city walls, among other protected buildings from various historical periods. It is a comprehensive cultural tourism area integrating sightseeing, entertainment, dining, accommodation, and shopping. "Luoyi" was the old name of Luoyang, and from ancient times it has been a representative of Chinese civilization. As the capital of thirteen dynasties, it is called the "Cultural Holy City." For thousands of years, nurtured by the people of Henan, the Luoyi region gradually formed a cultural characteristic of harmony between Han culture and multi-ethnic cultures, interweaving northern and southern cultures, and coexisting rural and court cultures, adding a profound and broad regional humanistic spirit to the forest of Chinese culture. Surrounding the Luoyi Ancient City scenic area, technology and innovation are combined with traditional culture. With protected sites like the Wenfeng Pagoda, Confucian Temple, Tuoling Temple, and Four-eye Well as nodes, and the Xin Tan (New Pond) and moat waterways as links, classical and modern are organically integrated. The goal is to not separate old buildings from new ones while reflecting both the traditional cultural heritage of Luoyi Ancient City and modern flavor. The park is scientifically divided into functional zones, showcasing the charm of the thousand-year-old city. Inside the park, dining, tourism, accommodation, and commercial service areas are dotting the landscape. Every step offers a different view, with a strong humanistic atmosphere. The park develops and inherits the original cultural landscape and humanistic atmosphere of Luoyi Ancient City, making it a highlight for the protection, revival, and inheritance of Luoyang's traditional culture. Luoyi Ancient City is the ancient name of Luoyang, located in the old city district with convenient transportation. It includes the Henan Prefecture City God Temple, Wenfeng Pagoda, Four-eye Well, and other historic sites. The moat surrounds the city, and the pavilions, terraces, and small bridges are reflected in the calm water—"peach and plum trees are more charming in the wind, willows are gentler. Let's enjoy music and a romantic tour, and not worry about idle sorrow." At night, lights are brilliant and dreamlike. It is another scenic spot worth visiting in Luoyang. Luoyi Ancient City is a replica ancient town, but there are also real relics. It reproduces the prosperity of the Tang Dynasty. The warm sunset, willow catkins floating, a mini version of Nianhua Bay. Famous Luoyang snacks: peony swallow noodles. Hanfu can be seen everywhere; you'll feel awkward if you don't wear one. The "Jinyiwei" (Imperial Guard) officers are sunburned and posing for photos. The young men are always complained about the most. The sugar-figure stall is still the favorite of children. "Luoyi" is the old name of Luoyang, representing Chinese civilization from ancient times. As the capital of thirteen dynasties, it is called the "Cultural Holy City." A relatively famous attraction here is the Wenfeng Pagoda. But this Wenfeng Pagoda is different from another famous one of the same name; there is no connection. At the foot of Wenfeng Pagoda, red ribbons are tied, bearing the good wishes of people from all over the country. There are also cosplay enthusiasts shooting short videos under the pagoda. The architecture here is ancient and elegant, reflecting deep cultural heritage; you can take great photos with ease. I have to say, Luoyang pays great attention to traditional culture. Every day, you can see many children in Hanfu shuttling through various scenic spots, receiving education, forming a unique landscape. The ancient city is not too large, but you can still wander around. You need to swipe your ID card to enter and exit. The daytime scenery is a bit inferior, but the night view is quite beautiful. It is a leisure block integrating eating, drinking, entertainment, and accommodation. You can also rent Hanfu. There are many girls wearing Hanfu for photos during the day and night, full of ancient charm. At 9 p.m., the light show at Wenfeng Pagoda is superb, magnificent and very worth seeing. After the show, there are song and dance performances nearby. When visiting the ancient city, don't miss the light show at Wenfeng Pagoda. From the ancient city, you can also walk to Shizi Street and Lijing Gate, etc., and it is also close to the famous Nan'guan Small Bowl Beef Soup, very convenient. Free admission to the newly built ancient city scenic area; you need to show your ID card at the entrance. It is similar to many so-called ancient cities rebuilt on original sites across the country. They are all imitation ancient buildings, not original ancient ones. Actually, it is more like a garden. The Wenfeng Pagoda at the park entrance is basically an original building, but the buildings around it are gone, turned into a small square. The architecture and layout of the scenic area are quite distinctive, with good composition and views, and photos look very beautiful. Especially at night, it feels magical. In the imitation ancient buildings next to the Wenfeng Pagoda, professional dancers perform in ancient costumes at night. It might be better if these imitation ancient buildings were utilized and enlivened with a sense of life. We ate wontons together. Admission: free.

Stepping into the Luoyi Ancient City, the ancient capital of thirteen dynasties, the Wenfeng Pagoda rises into the clouds, catching the eye. The old city walls, ancient courtyards, towering old trees with lush foliage, pavilions, terraces, towers, small bridges, and flowing water give a feeling of Jiangnan but not exactly Jiangnan. It adds a lot to the charm. Walking along the street, the ancient charm is strong. The eaves are layered and orderly. Many historical relics (Wenfeng Pagoda, Confucian Temple, Tuoling Temple, etc.) remain, further reflecting the long historical and cultural accumulation. The night light show is also a highlight, worth a visit. Only the Luoyi Ancient City in the old city district allows you to experience the ancient historical relics and immerse yourself in a rich historical style and cultural atmosphere. Luoyi is the old name of Luoyang. Free admission with an ID card. The entire ancient city is a commercial street. Strolling on the gray brick streets of the old city, with small bridges, flowing water, pavilions, and towers, climbing the Wenfeng Pagoda, visiting the Confucian Temple, or watching a show, you feel like traveling back in time to the Great Song Dynasty. Luoyang Old Street is also called Laoji, extending from Lijing Gate in the west to the Drum Tower in the east, with the central part being Shizi Street. Here you can experience the bustling scene of old Luoyang today and taste various local delicacies, the most famous being Luoyang Water Feast. This is almost Luoyang's food paradise. The old street culture was formed in the Jin Dynasty's Zhongdu (1214 AD), built on the site of the eastern city of the Sui-Tang eastern capital. It has a history of over 3,050 years. This is a microcosm of Luoyang's urban history and culture. Besides Lijing Gate, the Drum Tower, Octagonal Tower, and Wenbi Peak still standing on the streets, the commercial areas on East Street and West Street also retain traditional storefronts. Most of these shops are in the style of the Ming and Qing dynasties, with shop banners hanging outside. Here you can feel the local life. Below is the Drum Tower. Luoyang Drum Tower, properly called "Qiaolou," is on Luoyang Old Street. From Lijing Gate, walk east along West Street for about 1 km. The Drum Tower was originally built on Zhongzhou Road in front of today's Youth Square, and was moved to its current site in the 42nd year of Wanli of the Ming Dynasty (1614). Unlike Xi'an's Bell Tower and Drum Tower, which face each other from a distance, Luoyang's Bell and Drum Tower are combined. After years of changes, it still stands on East Street, witnessing Luoyang's development. The Drum Tower was used in ancient times for telling time during the day and night watches, i.e., the "morning bell and evening drum." In the 34th year of Jiajing of the Ming Dynasty (1555), this drum tower's bell was cast at the same time as the White Horse Temple bell. Because the casting parameters were the same, they resonate, forming one of Luoyang's Eight Scenic Spots, "White Horse Temple Bell Sound." The drum tower's bell and the White Horse Temple's bell are such that whichever is struck, the other will ring in response. The folk saying goes, "Strike the bell in the east and it sounds in the west; strike the bell in the west and it sounds in the east." The old street largely retains its original appearance: bluestone slab roads, brick storefronts, and a wide variety of goods sold, from snack shops and handicraft shops to clothing stores and hardware stores, everything, full of life. At night, the night market opens with outdoor tables and chairs, Luoyang Water Feast, and bustling crowds. This is not a tourist spot; it is the living area of Luoyang people. Lijing Gate, Shizi Street, and Luoyi Ancient City are all connected. When the lights come on, it is even more beautiful. Shizi Street seems to have more barbecue. Going in from Lijing Gate, the main things are Bufan Soup and Peony Crisp. Luoyi Ancient City requires a reservation; on-site reservation is very convenient! The Drum Tower and Wenfeng Pagoda have some age; it's okay to stroll around at night. I bought 50 yuan per catty of cooked beef, which tasted good. I remember over 50 years ago, during the Cultural Revolution's great link-up, I bought a "Daokou Braised Chicken" here for 7 jiao. It tasted good. Handmade wooden bracelets: how many can one make in a day? It's obviously just for show, faking it.

"Without visiting Lijing Gate, you haven't been to Luoyang." If you ask Luoyang locals where to go at night, nine out of ten will recommend Lijing Gate. It is a bit like Yangzhou's Dongguan Street. I wonder if Emperor Yang of Sui once watched lanterns from this gate on the Lantern Festival and draped silks and satins on the trees here... It must have witnessed the prosperity of the eastern capital Luoyang. If you want to taste Luoyang's characteristic Water Feast, you can also enjoy Luoyang Swallow Dish, Soup with Meat Slices, Crispy Fried Meatballs... Feeling hungry, I asked Luoyang friends and learned that even one person can enjoy a small Water Feast. "Without visiting Lijing Gate, you haven't been to Luoyang." Lijing Gate was first built in the Sui Dynasty and is the west gate of Luoyang ancient city, known as the "First Gate of the Ancient Capital." The current Lijing Gate scenic area was rebuilt on the original site of the Luoyang municipal government, comprising the gate tower, barbican, arrow tower, city wall, Lijing Bridge, and moat. It is also the location of Luoyang Old Street. Visitors can climb the gate for views, taste local snacks, and learn about the long history of Heluo culture. The Tang Tri-colored Pottery Museum is free. The Luoyang Sancai Art Museum is located in the barbican of Lijing Gate. The second floor is the museum, displaying many wonderful tri-colored pottery artworks, handicrafts, and paintings; the first floor is a shop where you can buy tri-colored pottery souvenirs. The Sancai Museum has an exhibition area of over 600 square meters and has collected nearly 1,000 pieces of Luoyang tri-colored pottery. The museum uses modern display equipment and methods, allowing visitors to both closely view Luoyang tri-colored pottery art and experience the hands-on operation of tri-colored pottery craftsmanship. Tri-colored pottery was first discovered in Luoyang, so it is called Luoyang Sancai, characterized by brilliance, brightness, transparency, and fluidity. Luoyang Sancai is not just Tang Sancai; it includes artistic treasures from other dynasties as well. "Tang Sancai" is only one period and important stage in the development of Sancai.

Luoyang National Heritage Park of Sui and Tang Dynasty City: ticket 120 yuan, free for seniors aged 60 and above. This area was the core of the palace city ruins of the Sui, Tang, Five Dynasties, and Song Dynasty. Among them, the famous ones are the Hall of Brightness (Mingtang) and the Hall of Heaven (Tiantang) built during Empress Wu Zetian's reign. The Hall of Brightness is located on the central axis of the Sui-Tang city of Luoyang and was the main hall of the palace, an important venue where Emperor Gaozong of Tang and Empress Wu Zetian ruled the empire. The prototype of the giant Buddha in the 2013 film "Detective Dee: The Mystery of the Phantom Flame" directed by Tsui Hark is here. Dreaming back to the Sui and Tang, soul returning to Luoyang, unfortunately time was too tight. The hurried trip made me wish I could stay longer and see more of the Sui-Tang world. Every city has representative tourist spots, and Luoyang, the thousand-year-old capital, is no exception. What left the deepest impression was another kind of beauty: Sui architecture. If you look closely, isn't the ancient architecture of Tokyo, Japan very similar? And isn't the Tang sword very similar to the Japanese samurai sword? Same origin, I suppose. The Hall of Brightness has a unique octagonal shape, thick and stable. Below is the original site. But after being destroyed during Wu Zetian's time, she rebuilt it, and later it was destroyed again by the Jin dynasty—truly heart-wrenching. Such a beautiful city crushed by history. The Hall of Heaven was towering and majestic. Empress Wu built it to the extreme for her belief in Buddhism, to reach the pure land. Ancient people were so amazing, the craftsmen were incredibly skilled. Unfortunately, there was no guide; I just walked and looked, recalling the history I had learned. The Sui and Tang were so great.

The Yingtianmen (Gate of Responding to Heaven) Site Museum has one underground floor and two above-ground floors. The exterior is a Tang-style gate, composed of the gate, city wall, gate tower, and watchtowers. Inside the city platform, wall, and watchtowers are areas for site protection and display. The archaeological excavation of the gate passage, column bases, etc., are preserved and displayed in situ. Inside the gate tower and watchtowers are exhibition areas, mainly displaying the evolution history of the site and some artifacts unearthed from the Sui-Tang Luoyang city archaeological excavations. The Silk Road Culture Square is 110 meters long from east to west and 160 meters wide from north to south. Three bluestone-paved paths about 6 meters wide lead directly to the three main gates of the gate tower. On both sides of the square are green spaces, small bridges, flowing water, green grass, and cedar trees, giving a leisurely and elegant feeling. This gate was the main gate of the outer city of Sui-Tang Luoyang, located on the central axis of the city. From the Sui Dynasty when the eastern capital Luoyang was built, it was successively used as the main gate of the outer city by the Tang, Later Liang, Later Tang, Later Zhou, and Northern Song dynasties, until it was gradually abandoned at the end of the Northern Song. It served as the main south gate of the outer city for 530 years, making it the longest-used ancient city gate discovered in China. From the outside, it looks like a five-story tower, but inside it has nine levels, probably symbolizing the supreme status of the emperor (nine being the highest yang number). The scene inside the tower is quite impressive. You can rent Empress Wu's costume and sit on her throne to experience it. At that time, a woman was already on the throne experiencing it; from walking up to sitting down, many people were taking pictures, almost like a red carpet event. I wanted to try it myself but didn't want to be the center of attention, so I gave up. I took the elevator to the ninth floor to overlook the entire building; it was really worth seeing.

The Hall of Heaven site is located within the Sui-Tang Luoyang City National Heritage Park, north of the Hall of Brightness site. It was Empress Wu Zetian's Buddhist hall and, together with the Hall of Brightness, was the tallest building in the eastern capital Luoyang. The Hall of Heaven is located on the west side of the palace city axis and was built under the supervision of Xue Huaiyi. There is no exact record of its height in history. The "Old Book of Tang" mentions: "Climbing to the third level of the Hall of Heaven, you can look down on the Hall of Brightness." It was the tallest all-wood structure in the world during Empress Wu's time. The Hall of Heaven is also the prototype of the giant Buddha in Tsui Hark's film "Detective Dee: The Mystery of the Phantom Flame." Inside the Hall of Heaven, there was a huge dry-lacquer Buddha statue. According to documents, the Buddha's "little finger could hold dozens of people," implying it was several times larger than the Vairocana Buddha at Longmen Grottoes. However, when Xue Huaiyi fell out of favor, he set fire to this skyscraper in 695 AD, leaving only the circular foundation base with five layers. The new Hall of Heaven is built in Tang architectural style, shaped like a pagoda, with five outer floors and nine inner floors, symbolizing Empress Wu's status as the supreme ruler. Including the platform and the rooftop finial, the total height is about 80 meters. Inside the two-layer platform is the exhibition hall of the Hall of Heaven ruins. Through the glass floor, you can see the Hall of Heaven and its surrounding drainage ditches, water channels, column bases, and rammed-earth foundations of the surrounding corridors. The main building is divided into multiple exhibition halls on different floors, displaying historical introductions, archaeological excavations, and restoration research related to the Sui-Tang Luoyang city and its palace area. On the second floor of the hall, there is a 22-meter-long mural "Ten Thousand Nations Come to Court," created by contemporary mural masters Professor Wang Yingsheng and Professor Sun Jingbo from the Central Academy of Fine Arts, among others.

On the last day, we joined a one-day group tour to Laojun Mountain. Seniors paid 85 yuan, free admission. Also, since I have visited Longmen Grottoes twice before, I didn't go again this time, while my companions went on their own. Luoyang's famous "Dao Xiao Mian" (knife-cut noodles). Eating in restaurants costs about 30 yuan per person for dishes. The Luoyang trip is over. Finally, we flew back to Shanghai from Zhengzhou Xinzheng Airport. The 14-day trip, ramblingly, ends. Since I am 72 years old, all scenic spots gave me free admission, and I spent 3,150 yuan. My companions are all between 65 and 69 years old. They paid half price in Gansu Province and free in Henan Province, so their expenses were about 3,300–3,350 yuan. This of course includes the chartered car fare from Pudong Airport to each person's home. The itinerary was: Shanghai fly to Lanzhou, transfer to Jiayuguan. Jiayuguan chartered car to Jinta, train to Zhangye. Chartered car to Bals Snow Mountain, train to Wuwei. Soft sleeper train from Wuwei to Sanmenxia. Chartered car to Shanzhou, train to Luoyang. Group tour to Laojun Mountain, chartered car to Zhengzhou. Fly back to Shanghai.