Leisurely Ancient Capital, Still Bustling - Luoyang
Luoyang, I missed the peony season, hoping to experience the long-standing Chinese civilization in this city.
Day 1: Evening flight Shanghai - Zhengzhou
Day 2: High-speed train Zhengzhou - Luoyang, Longmen Grottoes, Luoyang Museum, Heavenly Hall and Bright Hall (Tiantang and Mingtang), Luoyi Ancient City (hotel)
Day 3: White Horse Temple, etc.
Outside the grottoes is a folk village. Luckily, I bought a commemorative stamp album at the scenic area post office, which includes stamps and introductions of the grottoes from recent decades.
Listening to the introduction from a WeChat public account all the way, I quickly glanced through the various grotto clusters. Some had large Buddha statues with smaller attendant statues, others were clusters of Buddhas. I must say, every cave I passed was lifelike, looking down at the mortal world under soft lighting. Even with my nearsightedness, I inexplicably felt a bit uneasy. (Following the principle of not photographing Buddha statues, I only took distant views.)
Perhaps it was still the post-pandemic period, so there weren't too many tourists. "The carp leaps over the Dragon Gate" - the Longmen Grottoes exude imperial grandeur and Buddhist culture. Every grotto embodies Chinese virtues of filial piety, propriety, and benevolence. Of course, the Buddhist studies and grotto construction, which began in the Wei Dynasty and flourished in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, are inseparable from the shadow of Empress Wu Zetian, a nonconformist yet a heroine among women.
The entire Longmen Grottoes are divided into two parts along the banks of the Luo River. The first part (West Mountain Grottoes) mainly showcases the grotto clusters. After crossing the bridge, the second part (East Mountain Grottoes) has a more cultural and leisure style. Along the way, I visited Xiangshan Temple and Bai Garden.
Xiangshan Temple is located on the mountain. Its history of over two thousand years and the residence and activities of so many famous people attracted me. The entire building complex now might be more aptly called "Xiangshan Villa." With pavilions, terraces, and winding paths leading to secluded spots, it has the artistic conception of a Jiangnan garden within a dignified atmosphere. According to the introduction, General Yang was once confined here. Looking at the living conditions, they were quite good, but for a famous general unable to display his talents, what use is a beautiful view?
Bai Garden is the burial site of Bai Juyi. Actually, this garden is quite large, comparable to the four great gardens of Suzhou. Mountains, forests, streams, and pavilions complement each other, making it a nice leisure park.
The White Horse Temple, known as "China's First Temple," did not have the corresponding scale and incense in its main hall. What impressed me more were some historical relics thousands of years old preserved in the temple, protected by railings, silently telling the vicissitudes and changes of history at the temple's edge. On the contrary, the international temple area built by Thailand, India, and Myanmar within the White Horse Temple grounds brought a strange feeling.
The Qiyun Pagoda is another distinctive attraction of the White Horse Temple. This pagoda, weathered by thousands of years of wind and rain, is another imprint of Buddhist prosperity. And also Bao Gong (Bao Gong Temple), this prominent figure of the Great Tang Dynasty, began to appear in the itinerary.
I still followed the principle of not photographing inside temples, only taking exterior shots.
Limited by time, I hurriedly climbed to the top of the Heavenly Hall. Under the brilliant lights, like an internet-famous spot, I captured the view of the Bright Hall. In my mind, I imagined Empress Wu Zetian, draped in a dragon robe, striving alone for the prosperity of the Tang Dynasty. Perhaps, aside from her prominent status, she also had her helplessness?
However, to be honest, the ticket price likely covers the huge construction costs, which is expensive relative to its cultural and historical value. On the way back, I saw the Yingtian Gate, also resplendent with lights.
I stayed in Luoyi Ancient City. The clamor of the ancient city had passed, but the lights were still dimly lit, as if unwilling to fade into silence like all history.
A day and a half is not enough to fully experience thousands of years of Chinese history and civilization. It's just a glimpse. One thing I learned is that history and civilization are truly reflected in our daily lives; the relics and ancient sites are merely our remembrances.
Written on August 14, 2021
Travel Journal Directory: 1. Preface 2. Longmen Grottoes 3. White Horse Temple 4. Night at Heavenly Hall, Bright Hall, and Luoyi Ancient City 5. Conclusion
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