Pushing a Wheelchair to See Peonies – Luoyang Accessibility Guide

After deciding to visit Luoyang for the peonies, I searched for a guide on accessible travel in Luoyang but couldn't find one. So after my own trip, I decided to write this, hoping that friends with physical limitations will bravely go out.

Self-introduction: I have a level 3 physical disability – I can walk a short distance on my own, but I mainly rely on a wheelchair. I traveled to Luoyang with my husband. We believe in comfortable travel, so we kept the itinerary relaxed and leisurely.

This year has been very busy with work, but since we hadn't traveled for three years, I wanted to take a few days off around the Qingming holiday. I happened to see on my phone that Luoyang's peonies were blooming earlier this year, and the early-blooming varieties were already at their peak. Checking the date, I could book high-speed rail tickets that very day, so I finished arranging tickets, hotels, and leave all in one day.

This is my first travel journal, so I'll write it chronologically – six days in total.

Day 1: Tianjin to Luoyang by high-speed rail

Train accessibility is now quite decent. We took a Didi to Tianjin West Station, got through smoothly, and boarded with ID card scanning. Since we didn't get seats in the same carriage, I told my husband: "You handle the luggage and the wheelchair; I'll just get myself on board." The wheelchair folds up and can be stored in the luggage area or behind the last row on some trains. If that doesn't work, you can ask the attendant for help.

We ordered takeout in Shijiazhuang and had it delivered to the train during the stop. But the food was cold – a bit disappointing.

Arriving at Luoyang Longmen High-Speed Rail Station: We took the elevator to the waiting hall and asked a staff member at the service desk to open the door for us. From experience, accessible exits often lead to the entrance instead, as exit gates usually lack accessibility facilities – a bit frustrating. Outside, we saw taxis in the drop-off lane. With a police officer nearby, we asked for help, and the officer flagged a cab for us. Note: It's best to ask for help if you see a police officer; many drop-off lanes don't allow picking up passengers, so drivers may be reluctant.

Our destination was the Home Inn Neo on Tanggong Middle Road. The hotel itself has no ramp, but luckily the Bank of China next door has one, so we didn't have to lift the wheelchair to get in and out. Home Inn was as satisfactory as always, but due to my condition, I didn't choose a wheelchair-accessible room (I'm not sure if they have them).

For dinner, we went to Jiankun Luoyang Water Feast and ordered the representative dishes: Peony Banquet Dish, Meat Slices in Soup, and Hawthorn Drink. As an outsider, it's hard to appreciate this kind of soupy food – just a try. The basic flavor is similar to Spicy Soup (hulatang).

Day 2: Longmen Grottoes

Admission is free for people with disabilities, but you have to exchange your ticket at the ticket center. If it's crowded, it's not friendly for a solo traveler, but I had my husband. The Longmen Grottoes are located on both sides of the Yi River (called Yishui in ancient times). Early morning, there were few people, and it felt very pleasant.

The west bank is the main scenic area. Steep cliffs are carved with countless Buddha statues of various sizes, very vivid in form – not like the clay statues found in temples today. Truly awe-inspiring. The main path below is fine for wheelchairs; it's gravel, so standard wheelchairs can pass, but it's difficult for very small wheels. Some statues are right along the path, while others are on higher ground – you'd have to climb stairs to see them or zoom in with your camera, so I gave up. However, at the Vairocana Buddha (Lushena), I managed to climb up – about two or three flights of stairs – because you can't see the whole figure from below. If you really can't walk at all, you can only view it from a distance.

I've wanted to see her since I watched a documentary as a child, and I finally fulfilled that wish.

After the Vairocana Buddha, the west bank basically ends. We had to cross a bridge to the east bank. There were a few steps leading to the bridge, but fortunately a nearby staff member saw us and proactively opened the ramp gate. The east bank also has grottoes, but they require climbing. Opposite the Vairocana Buddha, there is a viewing platform where you can see the full view of the giant Buddha. Many people come here in the evening to see the lights, but we were there in the morning, so we skipped that part. After that, there are no more accessible attractions. There's something called Xiangshan Temple, which is very steep. Then there's Bai Garden (Bai Juyi's garden) – I thought it was just a garden, but it also required climbing stone steps, so we gave up. We paid our respects from afar to the great poet buried there. After exiting the east gate, there are buses and waiting taxis. Tired, we took a taxi back.

Breakfast: Oh, I forgot to mention – breakfast here is basically soup. They say there are eight kinds, but the most common are beef soup, lamb soup, donkey soup, and tofu soup. You soak shredded pancake or bread in it. Prices start at 10 yuan, with 15 or 20 for extra meat. Plenty of choices and fair prices, but after a few days of drinking soup every morning, we started to get tired of it. We found a wonton shop, but online it said it doesn't open until 10:30 – it seems wontons aren't considered breakfast in Luoyang.

China National Garden of Peonies: In the afternoon, my husband was worried because some peonies had already begun to wither, so we rushed to the China National Garden of Peonies. We entered from the north main entrance, which not only had a gate tower but also artificial steps. Fortunately, there was a ramp on the side, but the guard insisted on seeing a physical ticket. So my husband had to go to the ticket office to exchange our online tickets for paper ones before we could enter – point deducted. Also, I don't think they offer free admission for the disabled, or maybe we didn't ask. Later, I saw the south gate, which seemed to have no steps.

This was our first time seeing large patches of peonies in Luoyang. We were thrilled and kept taking photos! Maybe because it was afternoon, the crowds were bigger than the flowers. There was also a construction site cordoned off. I'm not sure if we took the wrong path or it was due to construction, but the area didn't feel very large. It struck me that peonies have a very short blooming period – some hadn't opened yet, while others had already withered. Tourists can't possibly see all varieties!

Day 3: National Peony Garden: Since some peonies had already withered the day before, we decided to visit a peony garden on the mountain. A quick background: online, I read that mountain peonies bloom about 5 days later due to lower temperatures. We chose this garden because it's said to be a traditional peony breeding base.

Accessible entry, free for disabled – they didn't even ask for my ID when they saw my wheelchair. We were in awe! Large stretches of peonies and cherry blossoms – absolutely beautiful, plus few people in the morning – an excellent experience. By the way, what they call "mountain" is just higher ground – you can drive all the way up. This mountain is the famous Beimang Mountain. The only issue is that the garden is divided into north and south sections by Mangling Road. To go from north to south, you have to cross a pedestrian bridge. I could only walk across, leaving my poor husband to carry the wheelchair. And the south section's peonies weren't as nice as the north's – I regretted crossing too early. The so-called "millennium peony" is just a gimmick – not a single peony bush is a thousand years old; it means peonies have been cultivated in this area for a thousand years. I found green peonies, but they were still buds – probably open in a couple of days. Yellow peony buds were still tiny.

The Museum of the Son of Heaven's Chariot and Horse Pits: It displays the chariot and horse pits of the Zhou kings. No accessibility at all – we had to descend a long flight of stairs as soon as we entered, and reportedly many more stairs inside. We just took a photo at the entrance and gave up.

Xigong Small Street: A trendy food street, accessible, but we didn't find any local food worth recommending. At noon, there was already a long line for the pan-fried dumplings. Lazy as we are, we gave up.

Cross Street (Shizi Street): From Lijing Gate to the Drum Tower, it's not much different from pedestrian streets in other tourist cities. There are ancient buildings interspersed with imitation ancient ones. Lijing Gate is free if you don't climb it. The only problem is that the distance between bollards is too narrow for a wheelchair to pass, so I had to get off repeatedly and let my husband lift the wheelchair over – quite troublesome. There were many tourists in Hanfu costumes, which added to the scenery!

Day 4: White Horse Temple: It was Saturday, so very crowded. The temple itself is accessible, but you can't enter the main halls. Just for a quick visit, we only walked around where the wheelchair could go. Incense was very strong. The Southeast Asian-style buildings nearby were rather gaudy; I preferred the simple Indian style. When leaving, I forgot about the pagoda – apparently there's a pagoda and the Mahavira Hall to the right of the entrance. I only found out later – studying a guide beforehand would have been helpful.

The Erlitou Xia Capital Museum: I initially didn't want to go because it's far, but out of respect for the Xia capital, we went. The museum is fully accessible – excellent! Many exhibits, mostly pottery, plus bronze and turquoise jewelry. You can go to the excavation site afterward. There was a shuttle, but no driver, and my husband didn't want to go, so we returned. I recommend visiting – the site is significant for chronological history.

In the evening, we went to the popular "Shiwei Hutou Carp" restaurant. Many people, mostly tourists. The fish wasn't fishy, and the dishes tasted good, but I wonder if this is really a Luoyang local's go-to dish.

Day 5: Sui-Tang Dynasty Relics Botanical Garden: Continuing to see peonies. My husband said he didn't want to see peonies anymore, but since we were leaving the next day, I decided on a farewell visit. Still many peonies. The garden's landscaping was more refined than the National Peony Garden, but perhaps because of first impressions, I still preferred the National Peony Garden. The garden is large, so it didn't feel crowded despite many visitors. There are also plum groves and gymnosperm areas, but the largest area is peonies.

Luoyang Museum: Right opposite the Sui-Tang Garden, accessible. It tells Luoyang's ancient history chronologically. The lighting was a bit dim – I kept worrying someone might bump into my wheelchair because everyone was focused on the exhibits. Compared to Erlitou, the design is a bit inferior. Exhibits are diverse, but basically end at the Tang Dynasty. Very few artifacts from later periods.

Day 6: Luoyang to Tianjin

Entering the station was smooth. One complaint: there are three ticket gates, but after entering, everyone goes through one door – why can't people just use any gate?

Also, at Tianjin West Station exiting: if you're in a wheelchair, you must take the elevator to the second-floor waiting hall and ask a staff member to open the door for you. Last time, I went to the exit gate and barely got through the revolving door, but then the elevator wasn't working (supposedly there's a phone number posted to call for someone to turn it on, but we didn't see it). I had to manage on the escalator – if someone truly couldn't walk, it would be very troublesome. And often the staff give incorrect answers.

This is just a straightforward account, and I hope it helps friends in similar situations.

By the way: I felt that the people of Luoyang were very warm, unlike some tourist cities that rip you off.

If you have related questions, feel free to leave a comment.