Luoyang, the Ancient Capital: Quick Travel Notes for Your Next Vacation

📍 Luoyang · 👁 305 reads

I love history and enjoy measuring a city by following in the footsteps of historical figures.

If you want to know the rise and fall of ancient and modern times, just look at Luoyang.

A girl from Luoyang lives across the street, barely fifteen with a charming face.

Having visited the temple, I stay overnight in its peaceful surroundings.

Spring is beautiful in Luoyang city, but the talented men of Luoyang grow old in distant lands.

Why do ancient and modern poems seldom mention Luoyang autumn?

Whose jade flute sounds secretly in the night, spreading through the spring breeze filling Luoyang city.

Luoyang's soil is most suitable for flowers, and peonies are especially unmatched in the world.

Only the peony is truly a national beauty, blooming in the season and stirring the capital.

Luoyang, the ancient capital of thirteen dynasties, has witnessed thousands of years of change, carrying a sense of historical vicissitudes. With peonies renowned as the best under heaven, spring is naturally a must-visit time.

I had long talked about seeing peonies, like Yao Huang and Wei Zi in Strange Tales from a Chinese Studio, and the Peony Fairy in Flowers in the Mirror. Mythological novels always have all kinds of stories about peonies. I had to come to Luoyang to see them. In April, I managed to squeeze out two days for a vacation.

Taking the high-speed rail from Chengdu, it takes 4 hours to arrive, more convenient than flying. Get off at Luoyang Longmen Station.

It's even more convenient and faster from Xi'an, Zhengzhou, and other nearby places.

Within the city, taking a taxi is quite affordable, and many scenic spots are relatively concentrated, so it's fine to take a taxi back and forth.

I recommend the Huamao Chunsong Hotel near Luoyang Longmen Station.

The hotel's name comes from Cao Zhi's "Ode to the Luo River Goddess":

Light as a startled swan, graceful as a swimming dragon.

Glorious like autumn chrysanthemums, luxuriant like spring pines.

Seemingly like light clouds veiling the moon, drifting like snow swirling in the wind.

Viewing from afar, bright as the morning sun rising over rosy clouds.

Observing closely, dazzling like a lotus emerging from clear ripples.

Huamao Chunsong means a figure as luxuriant as a spring pine in the breeze.

The name has an origin and ancient charm, and the hotel's interior decoration is also in a modern Chinese style, quite classical.

Day 1: Luoyang Ancient Tombs Museum - Performance "In Search of the Luo River Goddess" - Lijing Gate - Night View of Heaven and Bright Hall (Hanfu Check-in) - Cross Street Night Market - Stay at Huamao Chunsong Hotel

Day 2: Luoyang National Peony Garden (Hanfu Check-in) - Watch peonies for a whole day - Return trip

Luoyang has so many museums: Erlitou Xia Capital Site Museum, Luoyang Museum, Sui-Tang Grand Canal Culture Museum, Luoyang Zhou Royal City Museum of Tianzi Jia Six, Sui-Tang Luoyang City Yingtianmen Site Museum, Luoyang Ancient Tombs Museum, all worth seeing.

As a museum enthusiast, I have already visited several of them, including the Luoyang Museum. This time I came to the Ancient Tombs Museum because I like tombs, and it also has a mural hall. In April, the peonies at Jingling Mausoleum in the museum were in full bloom and very brilliant.

There are both above-ground and underground structures here, creating a full atmosphere. Some people came in replica Hanfu to check in. The murals were absolutely worth seeing, exquisite and unmatched.

The peonies are mainly concentrated in front of the Jingling Mausoleum, so it's a two-for-one deal of visiting the museum and enjoying flowers.

After visiting the museum, I was actually tired, so I returned to the hotel and checked in.

Legend has it that during the time of Fuxi, a dragon-horse emerged from the Yellow River in Mengjin County, northeast of Luoyang, carrying the "River Map" and presenting it to Fuxi. Based on this, Fuxi derived the Eight Trigrams, which later became the source of the I Ching.

The thing at the hotel entrance is probably that dragon-horse, a kind of auspicious totem.

Sui, an underestimated dynasty that connects the past and future, its excavation of the Grand Canal promoted northern and southern economic exchanges, marking a epoch-making significance.

Tang, the height of ancient China's prosperity, attracted envoys from all nations, sent the Tang missions, witnessed Jianzhen's eastward journey to spread Buddhist teachings, and produced "The Great Tang Records on the Western Regions." The hotel's Sui-Tang culture theme really suits my taste, which is one reason I chose to stay here.

Sometimes what I choose is not a hotel, but life itself, the era I yearn for, the atmosphere of the life I like.

The details of the hotel design are breathtaking. On the back of the room card holder is a hand-drawn map of Luoyang's scenic spots, allowing guests to first get an idea of interesting places to visit. They can even follow the spots on the card holder one by one if they have time.

Time, if you squeeze it, always exists, right? If not this time, I'll come next time to check in.

The hotel is based on the "Ode to the Luo River Goddess," with functional areas named Light Cloud, Startled Swan, Archery, and Star Constellation, and rooms named Celestial Beam, Celestial Phase, and Celestial Palace. They are simple and elegant, showcasing Luoyang's cultural heritage vividly.

I checked into the Celestial Beam room. The room's color scheme was elegant, equipped with a bathtub, dry-wet separation, and bed linens of moderate softness and firmness. Even someone as picky as me could find no fault.

Sitting in the lobby to feel the cultural atmosphere or having a cup of tea at the bar are both good ideas.

The hotel's public areas include a bar, tea room, and gym, and it has the only rooftop garden cultural community in the Central Plains.

Next door, Dahehui has a variety of businesses, so you can stroll and eat. When I went, there happened to be a special exhibition on Erlitou Xia. They also hold exhibitions regularly, so if you bring children, there will be both leisure and entertainment options.

The aesthetic beauty of the library is absolutely stunning!

There's a reason it became an internet sensation—who wouldn't want to check in and take a lifetime photo at such a library?

You can take reflections from both above and below.

After a stroll and some reading at the library, I went back to the hotel to change clothes, preparing to watch the performance "In Search of Dahehui." I noticed the amenities were Jurlique, a very good brand.

The drinks in the mini-bar were free to drink, including local Luoyang beer. I tried it and it was pretty good.

The performance "In Search of the Luo River Goddess" takes place in Dahehui's Searching Theater, less than a 5-minute walk from the hotel. There are several shows every day, so you can choose according to your preference and schedule.

It's recommended to line up early. There are several photo spots on the first floor, especially one with mirrored images that's very photogenic! There will also be Hanfu-wearing young ladies for photos.

Then watch the performance—a technological immersive moving show. Between light and shadow, you can see the changes of the world.

The stage design is excellent. With 3 performance areas and 6 stories, it tells the legendary tales of the divine capital Luoyang. It is a feast for the eyes and ears.

At the end of the show, peony seeds were sprinkled from the air. I picked up a few, wondering what color peonies would bloom at home. Personally, I prefer dark purple, noble and cold.

After the show, it was still early. I went to Lijing Gate and walked along West Street. It was packed with people and extremely lively.

At night, there was a small market by the City God Temple. The peony-shaped fans were so beautiful! There were many peony-themed items, and even fresh peonies for sale!

If I were a local, I'd definitely buy some to grow at home.

Dinner was at the Cross Street Night Market. I ordered Luoyang's Eight Big Bowls—the Water Banquet was a great idea.

After arriving at Lijing Gate, I naturally had to visit the Heaven and Bright Hall site, the place where the only female emperor in Chinese history once ascended. I had to change into Hanfu and check in. There are many places around Lijing Gate for Hanfu styling; just pick one at random.

The night view was magnificent, and the peonies during the day were also beautiful. Opposite was Yingtian Gate. This divine capital Luoyang indeed has an imposing presence.

Returning to the hotel, I found the turndown service had been done—so thoughtful!

Milk and agarwood essential oil helped me fall asleep; I slept like a log.

Day 2: Luoyang National Peony Garden (Hanfu Check-in) - Watch peonies all day - Return trip

For peonies, there are early-blooming and late-blooming varieties.

National Peony Garden, International Peony Garden, Wangcheng Park, etc., all have different varieties. This time I chose National Peony Garden, which has a large area and abundant flowers.

For late-blooming varieties, you can go to the International Peony Garden near the airport.

I changed into Tang-style Hanfu and took photos with the peonies, fulfilling a dream of returning to the Tang Dynasty!

The garden is indeed huge, so you need to take the sightseeing bus to get around.

Luoyang, a city of culture, a city of history, left me with beautiful spring memories.