The Mysterious, Ancient, and Understated Divine Capital of Nine Dynasties—Luoyang
Since my son went to college last year, us empty-nesters have felt increasingly bored and listless. The chaotic scenes that once erupted over his studies have, in these empty-nest days, turned into memories that bring a smile to my lips. The emptiness needs filling, life needs enriching—though we’re not exactly financially free, we can still follow our whims.
We planned a three-day trip (mid-March). Left Tianjin on Friday morning, took about 4–5 hours (a bit long, but it’s one of the few transport options) to arrive at Luoyang Longmen High-Speed Rail Station. After exiting, you can go underground to catch a taxi, just follow the signs. Since I wasn’t familiar with the station’s layout, I didn’t hail a ride-hailing car, afraid I wouldn’t be able to pinpoint the pickup spot accurately and waste time. A taxi ride to Longmen Grottoes costs about a dozen yuan and takes about ten minutes (you might encounter a taxi driver’s less-than-pleasant face because the trip is short—I totally understand the “wait 30 minutes for a 10-minute drive” disparity). Since Longmen Grottoes is very close to the high-speed rail station, this arrangement is economical and reasonable, unless you arrive in Luoyang too late.
Longmen Grottoes is an absolute must-see; otherwise, visiting Luoyang would be a waste. An in-depth tour is naturally the ultimate goal (do homework, read history, hire a guide...), but snapping photos and checking in is the most basic need of travel—no one can escape that. I visited about a dozen years ago, so this is a revisit. I didn’t hire a guide; I found some audio guides on Ximalaya. Many of the relatively famous caves have explanations and introductions, which perfectly achieve the golden rule of “30% seeing, 70% listening.” As it’s one of Luoyang’s most famous attractions, there were quite a few tourists, but still within an acceptable range. I strolled for about two hours, stopping now and then. There are many steps to climb up and down, so it does require some basic physical fitness. !!!Safety tip: Never stare at the scenery or play with your phone while not watching the steps!!! On the opposite bank of the Yishui River, there are some more caves and sights, but due to time constraints (honestly, physical fatigue), I didn’t go see them. Note: At this point, you’ve exited the Longmen Grottoes area (the ticket grants one entry only).
Around 4 p.m., I took a taxi from Longmen Grottoes back to the city center to check into the hotel. When leaving, I didn’t cross the Longmen Bridge (the calligraphy for “Longmen” was by Marshal Chen Yi; this bridge is a majestic arch bridge spanning the Yishui River) but instead walked straight out along the main road. The taxi ride to the city was quite long, costing about 30-something yuan. The driver was very talkative, knowledgeable about and fond of Luoyang. He chatted freely about historical allusions, folk legends, and city planning. I’ll share two tidbits: 1. Because certain scenes in "Chang'an: The Three Thousand Miles" were set in Chang'an (Xi'an) rather than the actual Luoyang, the film is not well-received among Luoyang residents (note: unverified). 2. Luoyang is actively learning from the operation model of Xi’an’s Tang Dynasty Ever-Bright City; they have invited directors to Luoyang to build a “Luoyang Never-Night City” based on Luoyang’s Divine Capital Central Avenue (note: unverified, but I’m looking forward to it). 3. “Buliangren” is a common term in Luoyang—I learned it from the TV drama "Wind from Luoyang"; hearing it from the driver’s mouth had a unique flavor. Arrived at the hotel, rested, ate, and enjoyed the night scene... I was very tired from walking, and also tired from writing. Let’s stop here for Part 1. To be continued in Part 2.
