Encountering the Little Joys of Macau 2020
Many years ago, I had a rushed two-day trip to Macau. Back then, I thought Macau was nothing more than a place of extravagance and dissipation, no need to savor it with heart, nor to measure it with steps or record it with eyes. In 2020, the world slowed down, and the pace of travel shifted from far to near. The slower time made people start paying attention to their surroundings and willing to explore the beauty nearby. Thus came this trip to Macau, and it was this very journey that dissolved my misunderstanding of the city, making me truly fall in love with the Macau behind the glitz.
The safety concerns that arise every time I travel were even more critical this year. Let me first answer the most worrying questions in detail:
1. To date, Macau has never had community transmission of COVID-19, with over 200 consecutive days of no local cases. It can be said to be a very safe travel destination.
2. Tourism truly took a heavy hit this year, and places are cautiously promoting recovery. I was also worried before departure, but after going through the entire process—exiting customs, flying, landing and clearing customs, traveling and sightseeing—my worries gradually eased. Because I could see with my own eyes Macau's rigorous and unrelenting efforts in COVID-19 prevention, as well as the universal compliance of never removing masks. Being able to enjoy such a trip in the toughest year of 2020 actually moved me.
3. Documents required for entry into Macau:
A. For the travel permit and endorsement: I started from Beijing and already held a permit. I made an appointment at the Beijing exit-entry hall in advance. Only manual processing channels were open, and it took 5 working days to process the endorsement.
B. Now, mainland China has resumed individual travel to Macau nationwide, and mainland tourists meeting certain conditions can travel to and from Macau without quarantine (depending on the dynamic development of the epidemic, tourists from some areas need quarantine). I fully understand this quarantine policy, because not only Macau but all places now have this policy, and it has proven to better protect us.
C. Nucleic acid test report (within 7 days before entry). Both hospitals and institutions are acceptable, with or without a red stamp. But you must calculate the time carefully, as it is only valid for 7 days. If it expires, you need to make an appointment locally for testing and get the report to exit customs (it's actually convenient and cheap, but for a short trip, one test report is enough if you plan well). For example, my flight was on November 19. The hospital collected the sample in the afternoon and gave the report 12 hours later, but the paper report could be printed the next day. So I had the sample taken on November 17 afternoon, picked up and stamped the report on November 18. The validity starts from the sampling time, so I could fly back before the 24th. Besides the nucleic acid test report, you also need to apply for a Macau health declaration code (scan QR code and fill in on your phone). When you check in for your flight, there will be staff on site to guide you through the form.
Before departure, I was worried it would be inconvenient after landing in the dark, so I specially booked an airport pickup. But it turned out that taking a taxi directly from the airport was easy and cheaper! Considering the excellent service of the pickup, I'll stop worrying about the extra 200 yuan... Sigh. After landing and checking into the hotel, the Sheraton was as expected—neither surprising nor disappointing. But I have to say: the price, price, price! Oh my, hotels in Macau are now so cheap, so cheap that you doubt whether you're staying at a star-rated hotel for a chain hotel price. And importantly, I'll say it three times: On the Macau Government Tourism Office's official WeChat account, there is a campaign called "Heart of Macau Departure" offering free 50% hotel vouchers, general consumption vouchers, etc. It's a straightforward double discount, you know!
Waking up in the morning with the gentle Macau sunshine—while Beijing was already chilly in autumn wind, I could still flaunt a flowing dress here, so my mood was already beautiful. In my memory, Macau was a mix of luxurious hotels and weathered, mottled old streets. Probably because of my attachment to old streets, my first stop was still the Ruins of St. Paul's.
The Ruins of St. Paul's are the remains of the front facade of St. Paul's Church, which stood firm after three major fires. This wall has weathered a hundred years of wind and rain and the passage of time, becoming Macau's iconic landmark—a unique Chinese-Western stone wall in the world, named for its resemblance to traditional Chinese memorial archways. In the past, the wide and long stone steps were crowded with tourists, couples taking photos, and people basking in the sun. Today, only we were there posing in various ways. In fact, there are many angles to capture a different view of the Ruins, such as the side steps, small paths, the Fortress, and under the big trees. But unfortunately, the beautiful time slipped away... When the crowd began to gather, we had to leave regretfully. Believe me, before 10 a.m., this place is all yours.
Adjacent is Love Lane, another must-visit spot. The warm tones of light pink and light yellow, combined with the influence of some films and TV dramas, make many couples stop here to take photos. Actually, the Portuguese name of Love Lane contains "Paixão," which simply means "passion," commemorating Jesus' sacrificial love for humanity. But a translation error created today's Love Lane, and this beautiful misunderstanding even gave rise to the legend that walking through Love Lane will soon lead to love. Whether misunderstanding or wish, we all need some expectations and hopes.
If the cobblestone streets of Prague's Old Town are winding paths full of Central European colors, then the stone-paved roads of Macau's old streets are winding trails exuding Portuguese charm. Walking straight up, you'll find one quiet or noisy alley after another. Many old streets have a wealth of food and souvenirs for you to choose from, as well as time-honored shops worth visiting.
The 67th Macau Grand Prix in 2020 was held as scheduled from November 20 to 22, featuring five exciting events: the Macau Formula 4 Grand Prix, Macau GT Cup, Macau Guia Race, Macau Touring Car Cup, and Greater Bay Area GT Cup. This was one of the reasons we chose this time to visit Macau. But honestly, this was my first time watching an international car race up close, and I was a bit excited inside. After all, as an annual motorsport event, the third Thursday to Sunday of November every year is a carnival for racers and fans. If I say I'm neither a racer nor a fan, would you be curious about why I'm here? I... I'm just here to feel the speed!
Starting early from the hotel, the weather was overcast. I secretly rejoiced that I avoided the scorching sun for the race. Upon arriving at the track, I first exchanged my electronic ticket for a paper one—just scan the QR code and it's done. The race had several grandstands: the Main Grandstand, Lisboa Bend Grandstand, and Reservoir Grandstand. I initially thought the close-up view from the Main Grandstand would be best, but it turned out the Reservoir Grandstand with its curves was also really good.
But early in the morning, my mind was still wandering, and I circled the entrance to the Reservoir Grandstand twice before finding it. Luckily, I met a kind-hearted person who was also heading to the same grandstand. Worried that I, a directionally challenged person, would keep getting lost, they led me all the way to the entrance where we had our temperature taken, passed security checks, received wristbands and earplugs, and finally after showing me the best seat and making sure I sat down, they left with peace of mind (the grandstand ticket was not assigned to a specific seat; you could sit anywhere and enter and exit freely throughout the day). At that time, the qualifying session for the Guia Race was underway. The racers sped by in their cars, the roaring of the powerful engines right in our ears, the sharp screeching of tires against the road... Huh? It was actually pleasant—what's going on? I fell in love!
This year, due to the pandemic, many racers couldn't attend, but that didn't stop new talents and veterans from gathering on the track to challenge the legendary Guia Circuit. Why legendary? Because it once bore the dazzling footprints of countless famous drivers like Senna, Schumacher, and Häkkinen. As one of the world's oldest street races, and the only one to accommodate both car and motorcycle races, it features high-speed straights and tricky bends, with the narrowest section only 7 meters wide. It is widely regarded as one of the most challenging circuits in the world. The Grand Prix is truly worth experiencing!
Speaking of car racing, because my dad is a fan, I do know a little bit about it. For example, racing is divided into circuit racing and non-circuit racing, both with over a hundred years of history. The earliest races were on intercity roads, and the first racing competition in the world was held in Paris. When I was a child, my dad would watch the broadcasts of major races, and I would sneak a peek next to him (sigh, my childhood was filled with ball games, car races, and spy dramas—how could I ever be a quiet princess?). Rallies, off-road races, formula races—my mindset back then was probably: as long as I don't have to study or do homework, watching races is the greatest joy in life.
The 6.2-kilometer Guia Circuit is a unique track in the world. Cars flew past at nearly 300 km/h, sweeping through straights and corners, scraping walls, chasing, overtaking. At that moment, the drivers' adaptability to the track and focus on racing allowed no room for slack. The spectators in the grandstands either cheered or fell silent according to the rhythm. The only idioms I could use at that point were probably "chasing the wind and electricity," "wind and clouds driving," "fast as lightning"... My vocabulary ran out. Notably, the venue repeatedly broadcasted announcements and videos about "wear a mask, wash hands frequently," reminding spectators of epidemic prevention measures during the race. The audience was very cooperative, wearing masks throughout except when drinking or eating.
What to do when you leave the track still wanting more? Keep exploring! Besides the Grand Prix events, there were many side activities: Winter Carnival, Music Party, Racing and Passion, and more. The first stop was Racing and Passion at the Macau Fisherman's Wharf. As a European-style nostalgic leisure and activity center, Fisherman's Wharf is originally a must-visit spot combining a theme park and shopping mall. With the exhibition of race cars and luxury cars next to the world-famous Guia Circuit, it was a huge boon for enthusiasts. You might think that the collision of paint jobs and nostalgia would ignite passion to the fullest—no, no! Because even more thrilling were the drift team performances and the offline finals of the mobile game racing simulation. It was said that the top three highest-scoring players would get a ride in a drift car (I'm very curious whether they would get sick while drifting in a real car, haha).
Event dates: November 20 to November 22
Location: Roman Square, Macau Fisherman's Wharf
I heard there was also a Winter Carnival among the side events. Don't ask me about the definition of winter for northern and southern kids; I only know that as a child, my mom would tell me to wear thermal leggings, and now I don't dare go out without fleece-lined pants. So what was in this Winter Carnival? It turned out that next to the Macau Tower, the organizers created the only outdoor real snow park in Macau. The site featured multiple game booths, a large inflatable track popular with children, and fun stage game interactions, all incorporating creative designs related to car racing. If the races thrilled the adults, this place was where children cheered with joy. It was quite rich and fun.
Event dates: November 12 to December 27 (every Friday to Sunday and public holidays, with additional special sessions on December 7, 9, and 10, 2020)
Time: 13:00-22:00
Location: Macau Tower Street (next to Macau Tower)
Admission: Free entry to the park; snow area and games have additional charges
After a day of races and fun, it was time for my favorite market time. During my days living in Southeast Asia, visiting markets seemed an indispensable part of life. Such large activity centers combining eating, drinking, and playing always awaken your desire for things. If Southeast Asian markets are a way to experience the city's lively atmosphere and quickly integrate into local culture, then Macau's Tap Seac Creative Market is the smoke that comforts ordinary hearts.
Handmade creative talents invited here gathered, each exhibit radiating unique brilliance. Time lost its concept here, making you linger amid creativity, wandering through Macau's streets.
Time: Friday 17:00-22:00, Weekend 15:00-22:00
Location: Tap Seac Square
For a long time, in my mind, Macau cuisine was just a bowl of rich beef offal and a dozen smooth egg tarts, plus chewy egg puffs. But coming to the Food Festival made me realize how poor my knowledge of Macau's culinary culture was—I felt ashamed of my foodie heart. As a diverse modern city, besides traditional Macau flavors, there are Cantonese and Portuguese cuisines. This makes Macau, gathering numerous international cuisines, called the "City of Gastronomy."
The 20th Macau Food Festival, lasting 17 days, was truly a foodie's paradise. It is said to be the most anticipated feast for food lovers every year. This year, as usual, the festival invited about a hundred local famous restaurants to showcase Macau's unique Chinese-Western culinary culture, explore more culinary creativity, and bring fresh dining experiences to visitors. The food festival was divided into five themed areas: Chinese Restaurant Street, European Cuisine Street, Asian Cuisine Street, Local Delicacies Street, and Dessert Street, allowing people to eat and drink to their heart's content, savoring Macau's diverse food culture.
When we took a taxi there, the driver said that in previous years, the food festival was so crowded with people and cars that you couldn't get inside, and to taste all the food, you had to squeeze through. This year, due to the pandemic, there would be fewer people. But when I arrived at the entrance and saw the crowd, I was a bit dazed... Was this really the "fewer people" they talked about? What would it be like when it was crowded?
Wow, Chinese-style roasted chicken and pan-fried buns, seafood and Japanese cuisine, lobster and steak, desserts and snacks—everything you could think of and couldn't think of was here. One food festival allowed you to taste world delicacies.
To add to the festive atmosphere, there were multiple game booths with prizes, allowing diners to eat and play. Every evening, a series of wonderful performances were arranged. But I think none of these could rival the Macau Tower's attraction for me. While people leisurely strolled and ate, bungee jumpers on the tower were thrillingly going up and down. In my younger, more reckless days, I also jumped off once. Now... I just watch and say nothing.
Even though it was a food festival, epidemic prevention measures were not slack. The health code and temperature checks at the entrance were strict. Inside, besides requiring masks, there was a dining area with over 600 tables sufficient for two to three thousand people. Everyone, except when taking photos and briefly removing masks, cooperatively took their food to the dining area.
Event dates: November 13 to 29
Time: Monday to Thursday 17:00-23:00, Friday to Sunday 15:00-24:00
Location: Sai Van Lake Square, in front of Macau Tower
The old streets of Macau Peninsula and the hotels of Cotai combine history and luxury, but I prefer the quiet and reserved Coloane Island. It takes only half an hour to walk around the island, yet it concentrates most of Macau's colors. Long, ancient alleys, quiet and mottled old houses met me unexpectedly on a lazy afternoon. Time seemed to have pressed pause here. I took two boxes of Lord Stow's egg tarts, leaving both the taste and the memory.
After exploring old streets, watching races, and tasting food, I couldn't miss the globally popular TeamLab SuperNature space. When you step into the three-dimensional interactive space with varying heights, immersing your body in the ever-changing collision of digital technology and art—whether it's the intricate lights and shadows or the rapid laser beams—you feel as if you've transcended reality and time. Every sensation draws you in, letting your body indulge.
Walking through a sea of flowers, witnessing the blooming and withering of a year, your every move determines the blooming and fading of each flower. Stepping into a sea of spheres, touching freely floating spheres—high or low, rising or sinking—the space changes as the spheres move, with your body weaving through the gaps. Traversing a sea of light, 11 laser beams change unpredictably, constructing new spaces through planar assembly, enveloping and immersing the body in a world of light.
Event dates: September to December, closed on the second and fourth Wednesdays of each month
Location: The Venetian Macao, Cotai Expo
Admission: Starting from MOP/HKD 238
November in Macau is absolutely worth experiencing, and many more events will be held in Macau. It is said that travel is healing enough. Through 2020, from panic to anxiety, from relief to calm, people's lives gradually returned to order. Under the normalization of epidemic prevention, life goes on. There are no long journeys, no poetry, but we must give ourselves some surprises—such as getting to know ourselves, and getting to know Macau!
Travel notes index:
1. [Preface]
2. [Epidemic prevention safety information]
3. [Weather-beaten old streets]
4. [Racing and passion side by side]
5. [Unmissable city of gastronomy]
6. [Fresh and colorful Coloane Island]
7. [Dazzling surreal space]
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