Strolling Through Macau, Recalling the Past

At the mouth of the Pearl River lie three jade-like islands: Macau and its two outlying islands, Taipa and Coloane. Over a hundred years ago, the vast Qing Empire submitted to the distant tiny nation of Portugal, reluctantly ceding this territory. Due to silt accumulation, Macau Island gradually connected to the mainland, forming a peninsula. In early autumn this year, I was invited to give lectures for two weeks at a university in Macau. The accommodation provided by the school was in a high-rise building on the northwest corner of the Macau Peninsula. From the upper floors, facing east, I could overlook the entire Macau Peninsula, with a distant view of the Pearl River estuary where the sky and water merged, and the construction site of the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge was fully visible. At night, the area was ablaze with lights. During my free time after class, I strolled around the island. It has the extravagance of neon lights and the opulence of money, but just around a corner, you might step into a tunnel of time and fall into the depths of history, where the vicissitudes and past humiliation of Macau hit you squarely.

One hundred and seventy-three years ago, Wangxia should have been an obscure fishing village in Macau. The name Wangxia (meaning 'looking toward the summer palace') reflected the remote southern barbarians' yearning for the central plains and their identification with China. Yet it was here that the humiliating Treaty of Wangxia was signed with the United States. Taking advantage of my free time, I went searching for historical traces. On Wangxia Hill, the trees were lush, birds sang, and flowers were fragrant. Close up, everything was green; in the distance, the view was azure blue. The fortifications and bunkers built by the Portuguese garrison still stood on the hilltop. Climbing the steps, I saw that the former barracks had been converted into a tourism school. Jogging paths and amusement parks had been built in the hills, where the elderly and children could play and exercise. The former military stronghold had become a leisure area for residents, exuding a harmonious and warm atmosphere.

So I went down the hill to visit the Kun Iam Temple. Inside, the incense smoke curled, and the temple was bustling with worshippers. It is said that prayers there are very effective, bringing peace to devout men and women. In the stone pavilion behind the main hall, the Treaty of Wangxia—named after this place—was signed. How could the enshrined deities not have shown their power back then to prevent the desecration of China? Actually, the deities also understand that without a strong national background, they themselves cannot find refuge amid the smoke of gunpowder. On my way back, I saw a street vendor watching the grand opening of the 19th National Congress of the Communist Party of China on TV, and the television in a shop was also broadcasting it live. The sun was shining brightly on the road, and I believed that tomorrow would still be a splendid sunny day.

One weekend evening, with plenty of time after class, I wanted to see Ruins of St. Paul's, the symbol of Macau. When I arrived, I saw a massive crowd surging, so I fled and didn't join the hustle and bustle. Turning into a small alley, it was deserted and quiet. After a few steps, I came across the site of the first pharmacy opened by Sun Yat-sen in Macau. The old building had been excavated, renovated, and converted into an exhibition hall. I gently knocked on the modern glass door, which automatically opened, and stepped into a distant past over a hundred years ago. The exhibition hall restored an unforgettable experience of Sun Yat-sen here. On the third floor were some books related to Sun Yat-sen. I sat down and casually picked up "The International Development of China." Over a hundred years ago, Sun Yat-sen worked for the country and its people, overthrowing the Qing, fighting warlords, and striving for a strong nation, drawing up a blueprint for national reconstruction. However, it is today's China that has truly realized and surpassed his vision. Today, the 19th National Congress is being held in Beijing, and the two centenary goals are inspiring the great rejuvenation of the Chinese nation. Gently opening the title page, I felt as if I were truly in a time tunnel. Not only because this book was written over a century ago, but also because on the title page was stamped the seal of the Malu Library in Jiading District, Shanghai. Was I in a quantum space? Unbelievable. But on second thought, at this moment, I am at the intersection of history and time. From the International Development of China to the two centenary goals, from the cession of Macau to its successful return, the Chinese nation's pursuit of the great rejuvenation dream has never ceased for the past hundred years. Today, because I am here, time and space have joined hands. Such a coincidence is rare. Could it be that because I questioned the Kun Iam Temple two days ago, it deliberately arranged this to restore my faith in it and express its apology for its powerlessness back then?

Of course, I had to visit the Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial House, where Sun Yat-sen's family once lived. It is now a memorial hall showcasing Sun Yat-sen's magnificent life. Today, we are enjoying a prosperous era—something that Sun Yat-sen dreamed of. On the way back, I passed by the Lin Fung Temple, where Lin Zexu stayed during his inspection of Macau. One hundred and eighty-seven years ago, Lin Zexu received Macau-Portuguese officials here. I also paid homage to the former residence of General Ye Ting, where he lived for seven years in Macau. The statues in the courtyard vividly depicted the harmony and warmth of General Ye Ting's family.

Macau is truly small. As a fitness and hiking enthusiast, I had no need for transportation; I measured every inch of the Macau Peninsula on foot, deeply feeling the vicissitudes of this land and its longing for the mainland. For over a century, the Chinese nation has experienced many hardships. The historical sites scattered across Macau are like a string of pearls connecting China's ancient, modern, and contemporary history. They have endured humiliation and recorded struggle, becoming a microcosm of time, reminding us of the difficulty of today. They also serve as an index to history, allowing us to see that the great rejuvenation we strive for today had so many martyrs who went before. If I have the chance to visit Macau again, I would like to see the Macau Basic Law Memorial Hall and the Macau Handover Gifts Museum, to feel the transformation of the world. October 26, 2017