Okinawa and Osaka Free Travel Part 4: Kyoto, Kyoto Imperial Palace

When traveling to the Kansai region of Japan, especially on a self-guided tour, not visiting Kyoto would really be a waste of airfare. From the moment we decided to go to Japan, we started planning our Kyoto trip. There are many attractions in Kyoto, but we only had one day. After some deliberation and following friends' advice, we chose the route of Kinkaku-ji, Kyoto Imperial Palace, and Kiyomizu-dera. Among these, the Imperial Palace recommended by friends was the most anticipated. The Kyoto Imperial Palace was the former imperial residence. Visits are strictly controlled—limited to specific times and numbers, and you need to make a reservation with the Imperial Household Agency in advance. Therefore, regular group tours from China usually do not go there. Since this was a free and independent trip, we wanted something different from group tours. So, we booked an online reservation for the 1:30 PM one-hour tour of the Imperial Palace on the 26th.

We set off for Kyoto at 9 AM. We were excited because we were looking forward to visiting the Kyoto Imperial Palace.

In the morning, we first went to Kinkaku-ji. With a detailed route plan made by a friend, we took the Hankyu Line from Umeda to Karasuma Station in Kyoto, then transferred to Bus 102. We arrived at Kinkaku-ji smoothly a little after 10 AM. There weren't many visitors, and the scenery was beautiful. We strolled and took photos all the way. Compared to Shinsaibashi the day before, this was truly relaxing and enjoyable.

This photo at the entrance of Kinkaku-ji can be seen everywhere, so I'm posting it to show that we were there too.

Kinkaku-ji is so classic that there's no need to say much. After an hour of sightseeing, we headed to the Imperial Palace.

After leaving Kinkaku-ji, we took Bus 59 from the roadside bus stop to Karasuma Imadegawa, which should take us to the Imperial Palace. But we went one stop too far and got off at the back gate. That turned out fine—we took a stroll around the Imperial Palace grounds, which is actually a public park.

Scenery around the Imperial Palace.

The lady in the distance later led us to the main gate of the Imperial Palace.

It seemed that many Japanese people weren't very interested in the Imperial Palace and didn't know you could go inside. Here we asked a young Japanese woman, who looked like a college student, how to get to the main gate for a visit. But she said this was the Imperial Palace and you couldn't visit inside. When we showed her our approved reservation application, she still seemed skeptical.

The surroundings of the Imperial Palace were quiet, simple, and understated. There were no tall buildings and almost no shops. The nearby residential houses were quaint, reserved, and calm. A few restaurants (the Japanese call them 'shokudo', which I think is more appropriate) were hidden among ordinary homes, with no storefront signs to be found. Only the inconspicuous small signs with handwritten prices for lunch set meals—2,500 yen, 5,400 yen, 12,000 yen—made you realize that this was an upscale neighborhood, the neighbors of the Emperor.

The tour time was 1:30 PM. The permit notice advised arriving 20 minutes early. With only fifteen minutes left, we quickly went to a hotel opposite the Imperial Palace and each had a slice of cake and coffee to stave off hunger.

Photos taken through the restaurant's floor-to-ceiling windows of the hotel garden, very exquisite. A ukiyo-e painting over one meter tall in the hotel lobby. The whole atmosphere was very elegant. If we had had more time, we would have loved to stay longer.

After a quick lunch, we hurried to the Imperial Palace. During our entire seven-day trip in Okinawa, Osaka, and elsewhere in Japan, we hadn't seen a single police officer until we saw two at the Imperial Palace gate. There were two police officers and some staff from the Imperial Household Agency on duty at the gate. We handed over our visit permit and were allowed in.

The Kyoto Imperial Palace office handles reservations and other matters. Once inside, we learned that arriving 20 minutes early meant going to the rest area to watch an introductory video, and we could also buy some souvenirs. At exactly 1:30 PM, we followed the guide (all in Japanese) for the tour. There were about 60 people in our group. [We saw] the ministers' residences.

The Imperial Palace has five such external gates.

This roof does not use tiles; it is made of wood. The roofing material is wooden and can last 20 years.

We went to the Emperor's back garden, which was extremely beautiful.

A photo with the 'Imperial Guard' of the Imperial Household Agency. This guard was definitely a master photographer; he took the best photo of my wife and me during our entire trip. I suppose he got a lot of practice from taking photos for visitors.

At 2:30 PM, the guide concluded the tour on time. The one-hour tour was very compact. We didn't get to go inside the buildings. It is said that the current Emperor still stays here when he comes to Kyoto. In fact, we were just playing in the Emperor's courtyard.

Visiting the Kyoto Imperial Palace felt really great. The unadorned wooden buildings, the wooden roofs without tiles, the small and exquisite imperial garden—all allowed us to experience Japanese culture and aesthetics up close. And it was free. Can you believe it? The souvenirs here were also not expensive, ranging from a few hundred to just over 1,000 yen. We bought a few souvenirs, feeling very satisfied, and then took the bus to Kiyomizu-dera.

Upon arriving at Kiyomizu-dera, the atmosphere was completely different from Kinkaku-ji and the Kyoto Imperial Palace. The hillside was packed with tourists—foreigners, Japanese, Chinese, and people from who knows where—all people. Both sides were lined with shops selling local souvenirs, creating a strong commercial vibe, much like the City God Temple in Shanghai. We bought tickets and entered the temple. The famous 'stage' was under renovation, which was disappointing. We followed the crowd, looked around, and then exited. We then walked along Sannenzaka (also called Sanneizaka) and Ninenzaka all the way to the end, without feeling particularly impressed. Maybe it was because we had already seen Kinkaku-ji and the Imperial Palace, or maybe we were tired. We didn't buy any local products. My wife had wanted to buy some Kyoto pickles, but after tasting them, she gave up. Kiyomizu-dera was just a 'been there, done that' kind of visit.

A Japanese couple praying for blessings.

A maiko. I didn't dare take a photo from the front. Learning a bit of Japanese culture during the trip—don't make others uncomfortable.

It was getting dark. After descending from Kiyomizu-dera, we took a bus to Kyoto Station for dinner. Then we wandered around the shopping mall at the station for a while, ending our one-day Kyoto trip around 8 PM and returning to Osaka.

Kyoto represents ancient Japanese culture. The city has a quaint, steady, and culturally rich atmosphere. Temples, World Heritage sites, and historical monuments are everywhere. Admission fees are generally low—around 300 to 500 yen, just a few coins—hardly requiring banknotes. Even the Emperor's backyard is free for you to visit.

In comparison, our country has a huge gap. Visiting a random ancestral farmhouse with a pond in front can cost 50, 60, 70, or 80 yuan. And if it's a World Heritage site, a 100-yuan note probably won't cut it. In recent years, the so-called development of tourism economy has resulted in people being shocked by the ticket prices when they see any scenic spot. To promote culture, the culture of wine, tea—all have turned into the culture of money. But these are digressions.

Limited edition souvenirs bought at Kyoto Imperial Palace and Kinkaku-ji: 1,200, 900, and 600 yen.

Tomorrow we go to Kobe. After returning, I'll report to interested friends about the taste of Kobe beef.