A Mom-and-Child Journey Around the Seto Inland Sea: 11 Days, 10 Cities – First Half Art, Second Half Fun

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A solo trip with my little one

This was truly a solo trip with just mom and child.

At first, when everyone heard about my travel plan, their mouths all formed an 'O' shape.

What? A mom and a child?

What? In a foreign country?

What? Eleven days?

What? Ten cities along the way?

Yes, just like me. Friends who saw my pre-trip plans know how anxious, dramatic, and emotional I was before leaving.

But now, I'm back, and I'm being interviewed by a forum reporter.

----- Interview Divider -----

Reporter: So, how does it feel traveling with just mom and child? Is it stressful? Exhausting? A trial?

Author: No, no, no! None of that! My real feeling: It was so much fun!

Reporter: Who do you think is the best travel companion? A partner? A bestie? Parents?

Author: No, no, no! None of those! My best travel companion: My son!

Reporter: ??? (Three shocked faces)

Having someone travel with you, but who listens to everything you say, lets you plan the entire itinerary, arrange all the timing. He goes with you to see what you want to see; he eats with you what you want to eat; when you want to shop, he even pushes the cart. For exhibitions, dining, accommodation, getting around... you have someone to share the experience, someone to chat with, someone to wait with. No pitying looks from others that solo travelers get; instead, you get priority treatment because of it.

Wow, truly a dream super travel companion!

How about it? Tempted, parents? Get your little ones and set off together, go go go!

---- End of Interview Divider ----

When out with mom, the little boy put away his usual whining and spoiled demeanor, and adopted the manner of a little man. I let him do everything he was capable of doing on his own. When he was shy or timid, I patiently encouraged him. Ordering food, returning dishes, asking where the restroom is; sharing luggage, watching over belongings, tidying the room; checking maps, identifying directions, finding lockers... even going to fetch stored luggage from somewhere else.

These things are trivial to adults, but to a child, every time you see his excited smile after accomplishing something, you realize how important it is.

After having a child, I used to be afraid of death. Seeing those random incidents in the news, or natural disasters, I feel how unpredictable life is. Even if we behave ourselves and live uprightly, we can't control all events in life, nor can we predict its length. So I just cherish the present, live each moment well, and accumulate as many beautiful memories together as possible.

In that moment, I was there.

And I have no regrets.

While writing this travelogue, my husband, having just finished checking out a game console, was watching our child and asked me: "Every day feels like playing a video game, right? You send him out in the morning, pick him up in the evening, and every now and then need to level up, fight monsters, and prepare various gear?"

I couldn't help but smile. He's right, and what's harder is that the outcome is unpredictable—even if you've made thorough preparations and done your best, the result, the future, we can't foresee.

This time, we spent 11 days traveling along the Seto Inland Sea, visiting 10 cities.

Yayoi Kusama's red pumpkin

The yellow pumpkin unnoticed under the blue sky

Becoming a magical little sorcerer

(Shodoshima Olive Park)

Experiencing a silent feast

(Shodoshima House of Silence)

Returning to the source of life, finding your true self

(Teshima Teshima Art Museum)

Playing with the fluffy sheep

(Kobe Mount Rokko Pasture)

Joining an Awa Odori dance gathering

(Tokushima Awa Odori Kaikan)

A child experiencing the joy of hands-on creation

(Kobe Mount Rokko Pasture)

Seeing plants that lived alongside dinosaurs

(Awaji Island Miracle Star Museum)

Viewing all Western 'artworks' in one place

(Naruto Otsuka Museum of Art)

Climbing a 500-year-old Japanese castle

(Himeji Himeji Castle)

Watching various marine creatures dance together

(Osaka Kaiyukan Aquarium)

Looking up at that stage belonging to nature

(Awaji Island Yumebutai)

Alright, that's the preview.

The main feature begins soon.

The Setouchi Triennale, held once every three years, was the reason for this trip.

I can't remember exactly what first planted the idea of the Setouchi Triennale in my mind,

but having experienced it deeply, I can't wait to recommend it to you.

Each island is like a fairy of the Seto Inland Sea, with its own unique charm.

The art-filled Naoshima, like a witch fallen to earth Shodoshima, the serene and gentle Teshima far from the bustle.

Spending an average of 10 hours a day in close contact, one can't help but fall in love with this place,

so much so that I had to dedicate a separate travelogue to record every minute of those three days.

After reading the Triennale section, please continue the journey with me.

The usual way to travel is to base yourself in Takamatsu, going back and forth between Takamatsu Port and the islands each day. We were no exception.

When we set out from Osaka, the sky was still overcast. By the time we reached Takamatsu, it had started to rain. My plan to visit Ritsurin Garden first had to be adjusted.

Since the bus terminal is right at Takamatsu Port, we decided to go to the hotel first.

A wet Takamatsu Port, Takamatsu Station still 'smiling'

After lunch and hotel check-in, the rain was still falling. We decided to go to the Takamatsu Art Museum. Following the main road along the port, it's about a 15-minute walk.

On the second floor of the museum, there's a dedicated children's art workshop, offering various books, handcraft tools, colored pencils, markers... Children can freely use their imagination to create their own artwork, or follow the provided instructions to complete small projects.

On the first floor, there was an exhibition of works by Toshiko Nakagawa, a memorial show organized by her children in her honor.

I don't know if she was famous or accomplished. From the exhibition brochure, I only knew that Toshiko Nakagawa was an elder born, raised, and living in Takamatsu, a pottery enthusiast. Through her works, I could see her love for life, and from the exhibition layout, the children's love for their mother. I think she must have been a happy person.

Many of us have never left the city where we were born and raised, never ventured far, yet carry poetry in our hearts and carefully cultivate our lives. Yet, few get the chance to exhibit their own works. I think Takamatsu must be a warm city.

Come, look at her work—can you guess which Chinese Tang poem it depicts?

Our half-day in Takamatsu passed leisurely like this. Then came three days of island-hopping for the art festival. Though filled with emotion and rich rewards, it also left us longing for more. I think I'll come back here again.

Leaving Takamatsu, we took a very slow little train, leisurely enjoying the rural scenery of Japan (I won't tell you it was because I realized the night before that the bus couldn't get us there, researched overnight, and hastily changed to JR, picking the earliest departure time without noticing it wasn't the fastest).

Exiting JR, right outside was the bus stop, and a bus was waiting. Hardly any people; we chose seats by the window.

Suddenly, the world before us transformed from countryside to fishing village, from fields to seaside, from green to blue.

Soon we arrived at the planned destination. Not many got off. We stopped at an intersection, pondering:

Should we brave the scorching sun, drag our luggage, and search for the Naruto whirlpool sightseeing boat, however far it might be? Or enter the art museum, cool off, eat, and enjoy the artworks?

Evan chose the latter without hesitation.

Across the street was the museum's main entrance: Otsuka Museum of Art.

Built in 1998, the Otsuka Museum of Art is the world's first porcelain-panel reproduction art museum. It displays over 1,000 reproductions of Western masterpieces, fired onto porcelain plates made from sand from the Naruto Strait. From ancient murals to painting treasures collected by more than 190 museums in 26 countries, all are shown at their original size.

Recently, Evan and I have been reading art history together, and most of the works mentioned in the book are displayed here. Although these are not the originals from major museums or heritage sites, the 1:1 reproductions still left a strong impression. No matter how many images from every angle and detail we see in books or online, standing before the artwork and taking it in directly is far more powerful. The reproductions are extremely detailed—some show the artist's brushstrokes. Beyond paintings, there are also murals from churches, chapels, and even tombs, faithfully reproducing environmental wear like peeling walls.

The museum has five floors. Entering from the main entrance, you're greeted by an ultra-long escalator. Going up, you don't reach the first floor but B3. Here there's a restaurant, museum shop, and the starting point for the systematic exhibition—a highlight of the museum. Arranged chronologically, it traces the evolution of Western art from ancient times to the present. From B3 to 2F: [Medieval, Ancient], [Baroque, Renaissance], [Modern, Baroque], [Modern], [Modern]. All the familiar works are here.

Mona Lisa and Girl with a Pearl Earring

The vain Sun King

The legendary play of light in The Night Watch

One corner of B3 is a circular exhibition hall dedicated to demonstrating the porcelain-panel production process, with staff explaining. You can touch the vivid works.

Another feature is thematic displays, grouping works of the same theme to show how different eras depicted similar subjects.

Raphael and Botticelli of the Renaissance

Van Gogh's seven Sunflowers—the most visited spot; we had no chance to linger, only snapped six of them hurriedly.

Our favorite painter: the Impressionist Monet. There's also an outdoor display area with an entire wall of Water Lilies.

But I still preferred seeing the five genuine Water Lilies at the Chichu Art Museum on Naoshima. There, it was just pure viewers: no photos, no noise, no one striking poses in front of the paintings.

Vivid, lifelike Ophelia

Abstract Picasso

Soon we reached the first-floor outdoor area. The lawn was impeccably kept, like green velvet. Perhaps it was the weather; sitting here with a drink would have been lovely.

This scene at the dining table blends painting and reality perfectly, reminiscent of the Forbidden City treasure 'line painting perspective'.

By now, we had covered almost all the highlight routes and all the paintings we wanted to see, and time had quietly slipped away. The electronic board in the hall showed the bus schedule to Tokushima. The next one was in 5 minutes, and the one after that in an hour. Realizing even if we sprouted wings we couldn't dash out, retrieve our luggage, and board the bus in 5 minutes, we decided to sit down, have dinner, and take the later bus.

By the way, the Café Vincent here had good food, was very convenient, and reasonably priced. More on that in the 'Eating Along the Way' section.

The souvenir shop had many art-related items, but what caught our eye was this: a Japanese edition of 'Katie and the Sunflowers', a picture book we had read together many times. The text is warm, the illustrations beautiful—a great art enlightenment book.

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Otsuka Museum of Art

OTSUKA MUSEUM OF ART

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Admission: Adults ¥3,240 | University students ¥2,160 | High school and under ¥540

[Official suggestion]

The full viewing route is about 4km and can take a day. If time is tight, the highlight route takes about 1 hour 20 minutes.

[Personal sharing]

We mainly followed the highlight route, but we took our time, viewed carefully, and also saw things outside the highlights. Including meals, we spent 4 hours, which used up the entire afternoon—sadly missing the Naruto whirlpools.

1. Wheelchairs and strollers available for rent.

2. Coin lockers at the entrance.

3. Audio guides available: ¥500 each, covering about 100 artworks.

1. 9:30–17:00

2. Closed: Mondays

Traveling from Naruto to Tokushima, it happened to be the eve of a Japanese holiday, and the road was jammed. It took a bumpy hour and a half. Fortunately, the hotel was right at the station. After check-in, we left luggage with the front desk guy and rushed to the Awa Odori Kaikan. The guy kindly drew a map, but it didn't help much—we arrived just 5 minutes before the show.

Awa Odori is a traditional dance popular in the Tokushima area. During the annual Obon festival, Tokushima holds a city-wide dance celebration. Various Awa Odori troupes perform on streets and stages, and residents join in the streets, watching and dancing along. Many tourists from afar also come to take part. That's why accommodation in Tokushima was extremely tight these days—I only managed to book this one night. If you want to experience this event, you must book early.

Of course, besides the Obon period, the Awa Odori Kaikan in central Tokushima holds daily performances, both daytime and evening. Even though I arrived the night before Obon, I could only enjoy an indoor show.

At the start, a senior Awa Odori dancer came on stage to warm up the audience. He cheerfully asked where everyone was from. When he heard the front row were tourists from Taiwan, he was delighted, but when he learned they didn't understand Japanese, he was disappointed.

Then, the host led everyone in learning the basic Awa Odori steps—the whole audience joined in, very lively and fun.

The final segment invited everyone onto the stage to dance with the performers. At the same time, professional instructors would pick out the best dancers from the crowd. The instructor might have seen me dancing very enthusiastically and signaled a few times, but I was focused on interacting with Evan and didn't respond, missing the chance. The winner who remained was an older lady. She received a certificate and a gift. Interestingly, she rushed back to get her phone, saying she wanted to take a selfie to send to her husband. I really liked her attitude toward life. Most of those who went on stage were young people and parents with kids; rarely did older folks go up—perhaps out of shyness or fear of being laughed at. But this lady went up naturally, danced gracefully, and even took a selfie under everyone's gaze with poise, neither awkward nor noisy, with a joyful smile on her face.

After the show, walking the streets of Tokushima, it was quiet but not deserted. Stages were being set up everywhere, posters hung, colorful lights strung, and the distant sound of Awa Odori music could be heard. One could imagine the joyous sea of celebration the next day.

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Awa Odori Kaikan

あわおどりかいかん

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Access: 15-minute walk from JR Tokushima Station

Admission: Adults ¥1,000 | Junior high and under ¥500

[Daytime performances]

Times: 14:00, 15:00, 16:00 (11:00 only Sat, Sun, holidays)

Duration: 40 minutes

Closed: 2nd Wed in Feb, Jun, Oct (if holiday, next day), Dec 28–Jan 3

[Evening performances]

Time: 20:00–20:50

Duration: 50 minutes

Closed: 2nd and 4th Wed (if holiday, next day), Dec 21–Jan 10

All in Japanese.

Arriving on Awaji Island, it was already noon. We had come to store luggage but suddenly discovered a world of plants: the Miracle Star Botanical Museum.

True to our principle of always checking out new and interesting things, Evan dragged me in.

While the famous Yumebutai is well known, Miracle Star is less so. Actually, Miracle Star Botanical Museum is part of Yumebutai, and the famed 'Yumebutai' you see in photos is actually the Hyakudanen (Hundred Step Garden), another part of Yumebutai.

Entering Miracle Star felt like stepping into a giant greenhouse. In a space three stories high, different themed areas display: plant exhibition, tropical garden, life surrounded by flowers and greenery, healing courtyard, flower show area, fern exhibition, atrium, outdoor garden, and a special exhibit: Plants of Yunnan Province.

Mainly tropical plants, so the greenhouse was very warm. The museum thoughtfully provided ice packs—grab one at the entrance. There were blowers everywhere to keep air moving; many people stood in front of them to cool off.

The first area we entered captivated us: huge cycads, ancient plants that lived at the same time as the plant-eating dinosaurs, as mentioned in the Magic School Bus. No wonder the sign below said "Dinosaurs might have eaten it"—it immediately grabbed a child's attention.

This was the plant exhibition area, with large desert plants, and drought-loving succulents at their feet, surrounded by similarly styled three-dimensional decorations. The lifelike elephant calf adorned with succulents—the whole space had a unified, distinct theme, giving the child an immediate sense of the desert.

Here was a three-dimensional display area with various interesting carnivorous plants, looking strange and a bit scary, but it was the familiar pitcher plant, something he'd read about many times in books and finally saw for real—many kinds, perfect for his class presentation later.

What fascinated me most was this next hall: a lifestyle intertwined with plants, nature, and the environment. It showcased a very fresh and elegant Japanese-style countryside garden, with different types and shapes of plants decorating the ground, walls, fences, everywhere—full of inspiration, the dream Japanese garden.

The largest exhibition area was below: a space where flowers and people, people and people, could intimately connect. Sunlight poured through huge glass windows like a vast garden. Here, concerts, parties, weddings, celebrations could be held. People and plants coexisted harmoniously. If only community gardens were this beautiful; with less smog and more fresh air, children could play outdoors more and fall ill less. In such an environment, stress would dissolve, body light, spirit free.

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Miracle Star Botanical Museum

KISEKI NO HOSHI BOTANICAL MUSEUM

きせきのほししょくぶつかん

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Access: Public transport

[From Osaka]

1. Take highway bus from Hankyu Sanbangai (approx. 60 min), get off at Awaji IC, then taxi (approx. 8 min)

2. Take highway bus from Namba OCAT (approx. 70 min), get off at Awaji IC, then taxi (approx. 8 min)

[From Kobe]

1. Take highway bus from Shin-Kobe or Sannomiya Station (approx. 40 min), get off at Yumebutai-mae.

Admission: Adults ¥600 | Junior high and under free

Time needed: half an hour

1. Wheelchairs and strollers available for rent.

2. Coin lockers at the entrance.

Seeing Yumebutai was an accidental discovery; coming to Awaji Island was a necessity.

Because of accommodation, I had to pass through here, but only had half a day to explore.

Of course, in sweltering summer afternoons (the most generous sun of the year), half a day was enough.

Rumor has it that from May to October it's always this scorching. Most flowers had already withered, cicadas chirped incessantly, and overhead the sun was a full-powered solar panel.

Already an offbeat destination, with this weather, visitors could be counted on ten fingers. But gazing at the sweeping greenery, the boundless blue in the distance, breathing the fresh air, the hot heart found some solace.

Even the child was thrilled because there was space to play: Mom, let's play hide-and-seek!

Yumebutai—the images we see online are mostly of this place: Hyakudanen, a hillside covered from top to bottom with concrete steps, in between large flower beds planted with various species. It's part of the Yumebutai complex, designed by renowned Japanese architect Tadao Ando.

Once, the mountain here was stripped bare to reclaim land for Kansai Airport, leaving exposed bedrock. Ando designed a transformation, but before construction began, the 1995 Great Hanshin Earthquake struck, killing over 6,000. Ando later redesigned it, hoping that through human effort, the damaged nature could be restored to a vibrant forest, that architecture could return to nature and life.

Going up and down the mountain, we passed through Round Plaza, Corridor of Rings, Kai-no-Hama, and Cascading Terraces. Everything was simple concrete; even my child exclaimed, 'This looks like Tadao Ando's design.' Yet perhaps due to clever design or the natural backdrop, wandering among the concrete structures with no one else around, we didn't feel cold or eerie—truly marvelous. These plain concrete buildings, like the mountain's own color, were solid and weighty. All the vitality, all the brilliant colors came solely from nature: flowers, grass, leaves, sea, sky—as if only nature existed here.

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Awaji Yumebutai - Hyakudanen

あわじゆめぶたいーひゃくだんえん

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Access: Public transport

[From Osaka]

1. Take highway bus from Hankyu Sanbangai (approx. 60 min), get off at Awaji IC, then taxi (approx. 8 min)

2. Take highway bus from Namba OCAT (approx. 70 min), get off at Awaji IC, then taxi (approx. 8 min)

[From Kobe]

1. Take highway bus from Shin-Kobe or Sannomiya Station (approx. 40 min), get off at Yumebutai-mae.

Note: Through the Westin Hotel, take the elevator next to the restaurant and gift shop up to the main entrance of Hyakudanen Park, then take the elevator there.

Time needed: half an hour

The park has a restaurant and gift shop selling Awaji Island specialties. The milk here is fantastic, fresh and not greasy; pastries made with it are super delicious. Don't miss them—I didn't find them elsewhere.

Another bright day, carrying the little gift from Awaji Island, we set off for Mount Rokko Pasture.

PS: Anyone played with this little toy?

Mount Rokko lies in the northeastern outskirts of Kobe, a bit far from the city. From the mountain, you can overlook the whole city, famed as the 'Million Dollar Night View.' Adjacent is Mount Maya, both rich in nature, a great place to escape the bustle. The best spot for a family outing here is Mount Rokko Pasture.

Mount Rokko Pasture offers a place for people, animals, and nature to meet. With rolling green hills, dense woods, blooming flowers, it houses various farm animals: besides sheep roaming freely, there are goats, rabbits, guinea pigs, ducks, cows, and even sheepdogs. Children can see them up close, touch them, feed them, take photos. There are also animal shows and hands-on activities.

From Kobe, we took JR, then a bus to the foot of Mount Rokko, waiting for the cable car up.

Ding, ding, ding~ The cable car is here~

The Mount Rokko cable car runs on tracks, like the one up Victoria Peak. Some sections are steep, passing through dense woods. Some cars are closed, others open. Mount Maya also has a cable car, but there one section is like Mount Rokko's, and another is suspended.

Dang, dang, dang~ Up we go.

This isn't nighttime, so no million-dollar view—worth just a hundred thousand?

Mount Rokko Pasture, here we come~

The classic zoo activity: feeding animals. Nearby was a vending machine selling animal feed.

Goats are quite clever; such a small hole, yet they knew to tilt their heads back, horns first, when pulling through.

Truly, with age comes wisdom—those with beards are different.

A bunch of 'heroes' from Bolt, huddled together in the shade, a huge fan cooling them.

The Ugly Duckling, or the White Swan?

Past the sheep pens, horse stables, and various animal houses, we even took a photo with a fake one.

My favorite hydrangeas, but missed the full bloom—regret. Saw someone's photo of them in full bloom just two days before we arrived.

At a green high point in the pasture, my child actually asked to take a photo. After the Shodoshima Olive Park incident (see the Triennale section), I was both surprised and delighted.

Haha, this little green patch turned out to be quite photogenic.

Photographers have it tough—after snapping, they dash off.

Encountered an elegant lady sheep? So the way the deputy mayor sheep walks in Zootopia isn't fictional.

This whole area was sheep territory, relatives and friends roaming everywhere.

Drinking time, they all came trotting over, except one straggler who took his time, like that kid in every kindergarten who's in no rush to eat.

Finally got a drink.

This little log cabin in the woods is the sheep's home.

Can you guess what the place above is?

The sheepdog show area. There's a performance every weekend and holiday. We thought we'd miss it, but the Japanese holiday that had affected us all along brought us luck—we caught a show.

The pasture also thoughtfully set up a play area for kids (freeing the adults), aptly named Kids' Wood Village. All equipment made of logs: slides, climbing frames, ropes. I really like Japan's outdoor kids' play structures. Whether it's the wooden seesaw in Kyoto, the iron slide on Shodoshima, or here—not overly padded, no garish colors, just ordinary wood or coated iron frames, giving children more freedom and being sturdy enough for parents to accompany.

Mount Rokko Pasture promotes interaction with animals and nature, so of course there are hands-on activities: horseback riding, feeding sheep, cows, rabbits, and also workshops.

The venue? Inside this little house.

The workshop offered four activities: ice cream, butter, cheese, frozen yogurt.

In scorching summer, ice cream was the most popular. We missed a spot by just one person, so we chose butter. But it turned out well—fewer people, plenty of materials, and the instructor could give attention.

The staff were prepping inside; we waited outside to change shoes.

Little Evan was already itching.

The instructor explained the method.

Step two was crucial: shake repeatedly, shake hard, shake fast. How precisely? Check the video demo.

Next to us, a Japanese mom with a little girl. The girl shook so gently—we finished while she was still shaking. Her mom watched with a gentle smile, unhurried, not urging, not looking at her phone. When Evan excitedly showed her the finished butter cookies and shared his joy, she responded warmly, and the little girl watched happily, still shaking at her own pace. Lovely! I admired their calm, natural state.

Here's a clear manual.

So cute, easy to understand even without Japanese.

Stepping out, we came across the photogenic little slope again, with a few sheep wandering. Evan wanted to touch one.

1. Sneak up quietly.

2. Nah, maybe not.

3. Gather courage, give it a try.

4. Whoa, I touched it!

5. Really touched it!

Finally, the dairy cow shed, where you could bottle-feed calves, but Evan wasn't interested.

Feeding experiences are scheduled daily—check the times, limited spots, first come first served.

A happy end to the Mount Rokko trip with a cow.

This must be a cow with a story. We stared at each other for over a minute, unblinking, motionless, like a staring contest.

Look at those eyes, dark and bright, as if full of untold tales.

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Mount Rokko Pasture

ROKKOSAN PASTURE

ろっこさんまきば

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Access: Public transport

1. From JR Rokko Station, take Kobe bus 2, 16, 18, or 106 to Rokko Cable Shita Station.

Fare: one way (adult ¥210, child ¥110)

2. Then take the Mount Rokko cable car to Rokko Sanjo Station.

Fare: one way (adult ¥590, child ¥300); round trip (¥1,080, child ¥540)

3. After cable car, outside take bus No. 2 to Mount Rokko Pasture stop.

Fare: one way (adult ¥300, child ¥150); round trip (¥600, child ¥300)

This route: consider a Mount Rokko-Maya 1-day pass, adults ¥1,700, child ¥850, cheaper than buying separately.

[From Kobe]

Besides JR to Rokko Station and the above route, there are express buses from Kobe city directly to the cable car station.

Route: Sannomiya Terminal-mae - Subway Sannomiya Station-mae - Shin-Kobe Station-mae - Maya Cable Shita - Rokko Cable Shita

Admission: Adults ¥500, junior high and under ¥200 (1-day pass gives ¥100/¥40 discount)

Time needed: most of a day; with small kids, you can spend a whole day. If also visiting Mount Maya or elsewhere, half a day works.

Hakuro Castle, real name Himeji Castle.

Along with Matsumoto Castle and Kumamoto Castle, it's one of Japan's three great castles.

Its main keep, all white, resembles a white heron taking flight—hence its nickname White Heron Castle.

Everyone knows Toyotomi Hideyoshi was lord of Osaka Castle, but few know he once ruled Himeji Castle, serving as lord for three years and constructing the three-story keep before moving to Osaka. Unlike Osaka Castle, which is a modern reconstruction, Himeji Castle is the real deal, having survived the war. During WWII, Himeji was reduced to rubble by air raids, yet the castle miraculously stood. In 1993, it became Japan's first World Heritage site, a national treasure. From 2009, the main keep underwent renovation, but only for exterior restoration and earthquake reinforcement; everything else remains as it was.

That morning, after a little toy got scratched—surprise, sorrow, anger, panic, a good cry—we finally set off. By the time we reached Himeji it was noon. Ice cream and cold drinks were essentials for survival.

At the entrance, vending machines sold drinks and ice cream—drinks even had an 'add ice' option, a heat-beating weapon. I suggest stocking up on water, but absolutely do not buy ice cream!

(Don't ask how I know—I won't tell you that just as we opened the ice cream we were at the gate, and right after buying tickets we found eating inside is forbidden. So we stood there gobbling ice cream like nobody's business.)

Himeji Castle represents the pinnacle of Japanese wooden architecture. Perhaps for preservation and safety, entering the main keep requires limiting visitors and removing shoes.

Once visitor numbers are limited, queues are inevitable. If you come in this season, you'll understand my advice to bring enough water. If you forget, soon after entering you'll see a stall selling water, run by staff, with a sign: 'This is the last water point.'

Believe them.

It really is the last one, with only two kinds, and slightly pricier.

Of course, queuing has its perk: you can stroll through Himeji Castle, carefully seeking the traces of the past—gates, walls, tiles, moats, towers, hidden rooms, high windows, narrow slits... to explore its history and the clever defenses.

The wooden structural model of the main keep.

Leaving Himeji Castle, we caught the loop bus again—twice, actually—to go to the Himeji City Museum of Literature.

Why twice? We missed our stop the first time.

Why? Because except for Himeji Castle and Koko-en Garden, few people get off. When the electronic display shows a stop, if no one presses the bell, the driver just drives past.

The literature museum really let us down.

When we took the loop bus a second time, pressed the bell promptly at 'Himeji Literature Museum,' walked through the alley, asked an elderly man working in his garden for confirmation, and finally reached the end of the road, we were greeted only by these words in the bottom right corner:

Today, it was closed.

Looking at this architecture, can you guess why we came?

Some sights just aren't meant to be.

And some are.

We passed this place twice, but in the end, we didn't miss it: Koko-en Garden.

Koko-en lies next to Himeji Castle, just a wall away, built to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Himeji City's municipal administration.

A classic Japanese garden—secluded, elegant, similar to Chinese gardens yet distinct.

The little bridge over the pond was probably a photo hotspot; photographers from different countries gathered, contorting into bizarre positions to find unique angles.

The models worked hard, too. Even without a common language, they knew to queue and wait their turn.

Mom's iPhone couldn't compete with professional gear, so just a keepsake.

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Himeji Castle

ひめじじょう

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Access: Public transport

From Osaka or Kobe, take JR to JR Himeji Station. Walk or take the loop bus to Himeji Castle.

Admission: Adults ¥1,000, children ¥300. Combo ticket with Koko-en: adults ¥1,040, children ¥360.

Time needed: 2 hours

Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan—everyone coming to Osaka knows it; everyone with kids comes here.

It's said to be one of the world's largest aquariums, famous for its giant whale sharks.

Is it the largest? I don't know. We've seen giant whale sharks at Chimelong in Zhuhai. Most creatures here aren't rare.

But for children, small animals are reason enough. The living, real ones, jumping out of their books, are what they love. The rest is just fame.

What amazed me most was the massive tank, five stories high, where different deep-sea creatures coexist. You can spiral down from the top, getting so close, from various angles, seeing different life at different depths.

Don't wonder why I took so many photos of the aquarium's exterior—it's because I was forced to wait in the plaza so long.

The wind was strong, but not enough to blow away the blazing sun or the swarming tourists. The entrance so near, yet we approached and retreated several times, because of row after row of barriers to manage the crowds and control flow. One queue to buy tickets, another to enter.

To prevent heatstroke, staff handed out cooling packs and large blowers were blowing. This gave me a chance to closely observe the exterior—the lifelike marine animal patterns weren't painted on the wall but were small plastic canisters that moved with the wind.

Finally, after tracing several Z-shaped queues, we entered. We bought a stamp rally booklet and began our happy aquarium tour. At the entrance, staff offered to take group photos, using both their camera and ours. Their photos were quickly printed, hoping you'd buy one. If not, they still took our photo carefully.

Evan really wanted one, and we had almost no photos together, so I bought it. Behind us was a family of three. The child, seeing this, was excited and happy to get one, but the dad perhaps thought it pricey or objected to the commercialism, glared, and sternly scolded, 'So expensive, a rip-off! Buy what?' I clearly saw the child's face instantly flash shock, hurt, and hidden embarrassment and endurance.

I understand the dad's reasoning. As adults, we're familiar with such tourist traps, but we overlook the child's feelings. The little heart might be curious about instant printing, delighted by a family photo, or simply expecting because others were getting theirs.

Of course, we don't have to indulge every wish, but we can gently explain, 'Dad understands, but he has his reasons.' I think a child who feels respected and understood, even without fully agreeing, will try to understand.

Darting about, impossible to catch 'Dory' the blue tang.

The ocean giant, the whale shark.

The favorite 'leopard print'.

A ray that seemed to be flying.

The famous Japanese spider crab, featured in the children's book 'Maps' under Japan.

The ugly-cute stonefish, with a 'whatever' attitude.

A school of fish clustered for rest.

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Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan

おおさかかいゆうかん

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High school & up ¥2,300 | Elementary ¥1,200 | 4+ ¥600 | 60+ ¥2,000

* Combo ticket with Legoland Discovery Center: high school & up ¥3,800 | elementary ¥2,700

Time needed: 1.5 hours

After the aquarium, we headed straight here: Legoland Discovery Center Osaka.

Like the aquarium, it's located on Osaka's waterfront, an indoor attraction. Nearby is the Tempozan Ferris Wheel, also hugely popular. There are combo tickets. Unsure if Evan would like it, I didn't buy in advance. At the aquarium, I asked his preference, and we chose the combo with Legoland. Tickets can be bought at the counter—hence the two queues at the aquarium.

Having chosen a huge shark plush at the aquarium as a gift, he happily ran along carrying it.

Legoland Discovery Center is a Lego-themed indoor playground with rides, a play area, Lego model buildings, and most importantly, endless bricks for kids to play with.

Two rides were fun: the 'Kingdom Quest' where you ride a track vehicle and shoot monsters and knights on screens, rescuing a princess; and 'Merlin's Apprentice,' similar to Dumbo at Disney, but due to safety checks taking time, queues were long.

The 'City Play Area' is like a ball pit, open at set times. Just queue up—remember, socks are required, no bare feet. If you forget, the service center sells them.

But what captivated Evan most was the 'Build & Test' area: a long track where kids use various Lego bricks to build their dream race cars and compete.

A wheel here, a brick there, placing it on the start line again and again, retrieving it from the finish.

Honestly, the mother in me found it hard to understand.

But the joy on his face was undeniable. This was where we spent the most time, playing until closing time.

Yes, closing.

So I guess this was his favorite place on the trip.

During a meal break, we stumbled upon an interactive classroom: 'Master Builder Academy.' They taught kids to build a small house with Lego, with staff demonstrating and explaining. Afterward, each child got a certificate.

After that, we returned to the race track battle, concluding our delightful journey around the Seto Inland Sea.

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Osaka Legoland Discovery Center

Legoland Discovery Center

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Free for under 2.

On-site: ¥2,400

Online: ¥1,700 (must buy day before)

* Combo with aquarium: high school & up ¥3,800 | elementary ¥2,700

Time needed: 1.5 hours to unlimited

When planning, I grumbled about the early morning flight, having to take the first bus or train from Osaka to Kansai, leaving the hotel in the dark, waking my child in a daze...

That's why I carefully chose the hotel for the night before. I wished I'd booked a flight the night before or a later one.

But as it turned out, everything was perfect.

On our return day, Typhoon No. 10 made landfall in Japan, and all flights after ours were cancelled.

And Typhoon No. 9, Lekima, had just left Dalian, with rain the whole previous night.

We somehow perfectly missed the typhoons, slipping right through.

I mistook the landing time 10:15 as Japan time, told the child's dad to pick us up at 9:15, and that day the plane actually arrived at 9:15 China time, a whole hour early. And I never realized my mistake.

The flight attendant once excitedly announced before selling goods: 'I just came from the cockpit. Our captain is Korean, and he's flying very fast—we'll arrive an hour early.' I still doubted: 9:15 isn't early. Then the broadcast repeatedly said we'd arrive early at 9:15. Half asleep, I still didn't catch on. Just thought: 9:15, yep, sure.

At baggage claim, I overheard a tour guide from our flight, also shocked: 'Never happened, a whole hour early.'

Hmm, that made me think again.

Finally, on the way home, while excitedly exclaiming about dodging the typhoon, it struck me: the landing time 10:15 was China time! Not Japan time.

I, I, I...

Here's a collage of all the foods we ate on this journey.

Given the length, I won't detail everything, just a few highlights.

Local specialty: Kobe beef

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Redrock

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Specialty: Roast beef bowl and steak bowl

Redrock has two shops near Sannomiya. We went to the main one, a bit hidden, under the elevated tracks in an alley, behind street-front shops. We arrived early, before 5pm, not crowded. Self-order at the machine, cash only, with Chinese-speaking staff to help. Ordered signature roast beef bowl and steak bowl. Meat not fully cooked but fresh, tender, no gamey smell. We who never eat raw had no problem; we loved it.

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Shingen Kobe Beef

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Specialty: Yakiniku (grilled) Kobe beef

Under the JR Sannomiya elevated tracks are many restaurants, mostly Kobe beef yakiniku places. This one was closest to our hotel and best rated, a designated Kobe beef shop. Usually reservations are needed, and many platforms offer paid booking services. Maybe it was late (7pm) or just luck, but we didn't queue and went straight into a small private room. Each room had bamboo curtains, airy yet private. They offer various grades of beef; the most recommended is a 5-kind platter or a whole-cow set. But with just two, we consulted the Chinese-speaking staff and ordered a single sirloin steak, with salmon ochazuke. Look at the marbling—fat and lean, snowflake-like, marble-like. Just a quick sear on the grill, melts in your mouth. Truly the famous Kobe beef.

Because the meat is so fresh and well-marbled, just a few seconds each side—overcooking makes it tough.

Local specialty: Takamatsu bone-in chicken

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Yoseitori Bird

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Specialty: Takamatsu bone-in chicken

Bone-in chicken is chicken leg with bone, in two types: young chicken (tender) and old chicken (chewier). Yoseitori is a famous local spot, open only for lunch and dinner. We arrived just as dinner started. Seats at the counter were available; the main area was almost full with locals—office workers, students, gathering. Ordered young chicken, salmon ochazuke, chicken meatballs. At first worried he wouldn't like it, I ordered little. But he alone devoured the young chicken and half the meatballs.

Must-try: Himeji donuts

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Mister Donut

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Specialty: Donuts

Never expected to find delicious food in Himeji, but a greedy little one kept saying he was hungry, leading me to donuts twice. It completely changed my prejudice against donuts. Turns out donuts aren't bad; I just had terrible ones before. First at Starbucks (never seen donuts there, also had a great matcha iced drink), then at Mister Donut in the Sanyo Department Store near JR Himeji. So many varieties, each looked super tempting and tasted even better—fragrant, sweet, delicious.

Must-try: Western casual

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Café Vincent

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Specialty: Chicken rice plate

As mentioned, we spent most of the day at Otsuka Museum, eating both meals there at Café Vincent. Their popular chicken plate: a whole smoked chicken breast with potatoes, veggies, salad, onion rings, and a dessert bread with pesto. I had it for lunch, and Evan loved it so much he ordered it again for dinner. He had the roast beef sandwich for lunch—thick, soft bread with tender roast beef, lettuce, and crispy chips.

Must-try: Ice cream

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Mount Rokko Pasture

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Specialty: Ice cream made with their own milk

I've always loved products made with Mount Rokko Pasture milk—pastries or ice cream, all distinctive, rich milky flavor. We tried strawberry and original; I recommend the original, creamy and aromatic. Even if strawberry is just artificial flavor, my child stuck to his favorite.

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Shodoshima Olive Park

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Specialty: Olive ice cream

Cream wrapped with olive oil adds a thick, mellow richness. No icy bits, just pure creaminess with a light olive fragrance, dancing on the tongue.

Accommodations:

Since traveling with a child, for safety, convenience, and practicality, I chose hotels all the way, located near transport hubs, within a few minutes' walk from stations. Though I fancied many minshuku and traditional Japanese houses, that'll have to wait.

Osaka: Centurion Hotel CEN Osaka Namba

Location: Very convenient, close to JR Namba, OCAT, Nankai Electric Railway, Osaka Metro Namba—within 6-7 minutes' walk, handy for me with luggage and child.

Room: A bit small, just right for one adult and one child. Luggage can be opened, amenities complete.

Service: Chinese-speaking front desk, also English. They gave kids' toothbrush set and slippers—Evan loved them.

Surroundings: Nearby a public green space with a slide; a large supermarket for supplies.

Takamatsu: JR Clement Takamatsu

Location: Right at Takamatsu Port, with the pier on one side, JR and bus station on another, Tamamo Park and Kotoden station nearby.

Room: Spacious, several suitcases can be opened. Large window bright and airy, though not sea view, overlooking the terrace restaurant below, lively at night. Mattress a bit soft, and the edge seemed worn. Room had a portable smartphone for hotspot and calls.

Service: Front desk spoke very fluent but hard-to-understand English, with an international, superficial warmth.

Surroundings: Floors below are restaurants, 1F buffet, a pastry shop on the side. Outside, various eateries; a 7-Eleven across from the main entrance—breakfasts here solved.

Tokushima: Daiwa Roynet Hotel Tokushima-Ekimae

Location: Right in front of JR Tokushima Station, bus terminal downstairs. 10-minute walk to Awa Odori Kaikan. Front desk on 5th floor; enter through the door next to 7-Eleven, take elevator.

Room: Reasonably sized, comfortable bed. Strangely, double room had one pillow on the bed and the other on a rack by the door—odd but interesting.

Service: A very enthusiastic Japanese-only-speaking lad tried hard in Japanese; other staff spoke fluent English. Kids got a welcome gift, small toy, slippers—very thoughtful.

Surroundings: 7-Eleven downstairs, handy for snacks after the Awa Odori show and before the early bus to Maiko.

Kobe: Hotel Villa Fontaine Kobe Sannomiya

Location: Closer to JR Sannomiya Station, just a straight walk under the elevated tracks.

Room: Very spacious, with a capsule coffee machine, free capsules and tea, plus a portable phone. Yukata (cotton robe) was super comfortable—Evan wanted one at home. Slippers had a unique cotton material, soft like cotton pads.

Service: Check-in done by staff at the counter using a machine, transparent process.

Surroundings: Vending machines, microwave for food, designated smoking room on the lobby floor. Near an eating street with all sorts of food; convenience store nearby.

Transportation:

This trip spanned multiple cities (10) and regions (Kansai, Shikoku). Except Takamatsu, we stayed no more than two days per city. Main transport was bus. The dizzying array of Japan transport passes were useless (I studied them). No need to buy in advance; just follow the itinerary.

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【Osaka】 - 【Takamatsu】

1. Fare: Adult ¥4,100 | Child ¥2,050. Round trip adult ¥7,400 | no child round-trip discount.

2. Duration: 3.5 hours.

3. JR Namba Station and OCAT in same building, take escalator to 2F: one side ticketing, other side waiting area.

4. Tickets for Takamatsu can be bought in advance, also changeable. I worried we'd oversleep, so bought a 9:30 ticket, but we arrived at 8:30, changed easily to 8:55.

5. Bus passes via Awaji Island to Takamatsu, with a 10-min rest stop on Awaji (service area has FamilyMart).

6. Terminus is Takamatsu Station; port, JR, highway bus all within 7-8 min walk. If island-hopping and staying near port, get off at terminus. If touring Takamatsu city, bus also stops at Ritsurin Park, Kencho.

[Awaji] Murotsu

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【Takamatsu】 - 【Naruto】

1. Tourists usually go to Naruto for the whirlpools and Otsuka Museum. The highway bus only goes to Naruto Nishi, far from these, so must take JR.

2. JR Takamatsu - JR Ikenotani - JR Naruto. Fare: Adult ¥1,460 | Child ¥730

3. Duration: 3 hours; accidentally took a very slow local train, more like a bus, stopping at countless stations, some for up to 10 minutes—allowed a leisurely view of countryside.

4. Buy ticket to Naruto; at Ikenotani, change trains. Small station, cross a footbridge (stairs only, no elevator) to the other platform.

5. Writing this, I checked: there seem to be Limited Express trains faster; note for those interested.

6. At JR Naruto Station, exit to Tokushima Naruto bus stop, take bus to Otsuka Museum-mae, across the street.

7. Fare: Adult ¥280 | Child ¥140

8. Duration: 13 minutes.

Board at Itano-cho Osaka, Itano-cho Kawabata, then passing through various stops.

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【Naruto】 - 【Tokushima】

1. Take Tokushima Naruto bus back, boarding right outside Otsuka Museum; timetable shown on museum's electronic board.

2. Fare: Adult ¥710 | Child ¥360

3. Duration: normally about 1 hour 20 min.

4. This bus is like intercity mini-bus, from city outskirts to center. That day, holiday eve rush, we were stuck on Naruto Bridge a while; Evan dozed off, I watched the sunset.

5. Terminus at Tokushima Station; bus and JR together, less than 5 min walk to hotel. Checked in, left luggage, dashed to the kaikan, just in time.

Tokushima City, Kamisuke-cho

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【Tokushima】 - 【Awaji Island】

1. Take the bus from Tokushima to Kobe, get off at Kosoku Maiko.

2. Fare: Adult ¥3,000 | Child ¥1,500

3. Duration: normally 1 hr 20 min.

4. Ticket office right at the hotel's left entrance. The lady was very enthusiastic; upon hearing 'Maiko', she referred us to a gentleman. He cheerfully helped, confirming pronunciation (I said maico, he said miyaco).

5. Hotel's ground floor is the bus terminal, different platforms for different routes. Our bus waited in a small building with cool AC, timetable on wall, electronic board displaying departures, and a staffer managing queues.

6. Kosoku Maiko is an elevated multi-level station. Disembark on 5th floor, take elevator down to 4th, then another up to 5th to cross the road.

7. Go to platform 2, take bus to Higashiura Bus Terminal, get off at Yumebutai-mae. When you get off the elevator, you might see a long queue—those are for platform 1. Just go to the back; different platforms have separate queues.

8. This bus may be delayed; we waited an extra half hour. Due to the wait, a staffer let waiting passengers sit while keeping queue order. But he skipped us when asking destinations. Later, with more people, he asked again and tried to put us at the back. Luckily, a lady in the same situation explained, and he rearranged us to the front—saving me from digging for Japanese words.

9. Fare: Adult ¥510 | Child ¥260. Pay in advance or when alighting. Yumebutai-mae stop right in front of the Westin Hotel Awaji Island; pass through to Yumebutai.

Kobe City, Higashi Maiko-cho

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【Awaji Island】 - 【Kobe】

1. Since we went from Tokushima via Awaji's Yumebutai to Kobe, we boarded the bus at the Westin, direction Shin-Kobe Station, got off at Sannomiya Station-mae. If coming from Kobe to Yumebutai, same bus, get off at Yumebutai-mae.

2. Fare: Adult ¥930 | Child ¥470.

3. Duration: 52 minutes.

4. Yumebutai wasn't the first stop, so bus was crowded. Seats full, we used the fold-down aisle seats—more comfortable than China's. Many got off at early stops near Akashi Kaikyo Park, so we soon got real seats.

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【Kobe】 - 【Himeji】

1. Take JR Tokaido-Sanyo Main Line from Sannomiya to Himeji.

2. Duration: 41 minutes.

3. In Himeji, use the Himeji Castle Loop Bus, buy a 1-day pass (Japanese: Himeji-jo Loop Bus 1-day pass).

4. Price: Adult ¥300 | Child ¥150.

5. This pass mainly circles Himeji Castle and connects to JR Himeji Station. Single bus ride is ¥100 or ¥200; if only going to the castle and willing to walk to/from JR, you can skip it. Otherwise, buy.

6. Loop bus stops also include Himeji Castle, Koko-en, Himeji Literature Museum (an Ando work), Hyogo Prefectural Museum of History, Himeji City Museum of Art (a beautiful red building). Spots marked with ?? on the map offer discounts. Stops 1, 2, 7, 8, 9 also served by local buses.

Kobe City, Nishi Maiko

Kakogawa City, Yoneda-cho

Kakogawa City, Higashi-Kanki-cho

Akashi City, Kazusaka

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【Himeji】 - 【Osaka】

1. Take JR Tokaido-Sanyo Line to Osaka Station, transfer to subway to Namba.

2. Fare: Adult ¥1,660 | Child ¥830

3. Duration: 1 hour 22 minutes.

4. Multiple subway lines go to Namba, choose according to your timing.

Shopping:

Originally no shopping plan—traveling with a child, who'd hope for that? But the super travel companion allowed a little shopping.

Himeji: Sanyo Department Store

1. Location: Near JR Himeji, 5-min walk, opposite loop bus terminus.

2. Brands: Cosmetics on 1st floor; Japanese brands like SK-II, CPB available, no discounts, but no queues—just buy at counter. Card, UnionPay, Alipay accepted.

3. Service: Beauticians spoke simple English, warm smiles, like traditional Japanese women—neat, soft-spoken. Evan looked around curiously; she just watched gently, like Ran looking after Conan.

4. Tax refund: On 5th floor, cash refund. Also LOFT on same floor.

Kobe: Kokokara Fine

1. Location: Many drugstores near Sannomiya. After Redrock, there's one directly across.

2. Brands: Not as extensive as Osaka drugstores; only one floor, but popular items were there.

3. Service: No service beyond tax-free counter; cashier expressionless, cold.

4. Tax-free: uniform discounted prices; Kao steam masks cheaper, some face masks pricier.

5. While I compared prices, Evan held the basket, figuring out how to fit everything, rearranging repeatedly without complaint. He was tired yet accompanied me. Maybe because last time Dad shopped with me, he learned by example.

Takamatsu: Daikoku Drugstore

1. Location: On the way from Takamatsu Art Museum to Hyogo-cho for Yoseitori, as it wasn't open yet, saw a Daikoku soliciting.

2. Brands: Daikoku has a wide range of cosmetics and daily items, but almost no counter brands. Prices were much higher than in Osaka.

3. Service: A Chinese-speaking assistant followed me. I asked about a mouth ulcer patch for my child, and she kept following, even after I politely refused, saying it was the boss's rule—maybe because no other customers.

Osaka: LOFT

1. Location: 12-22 Namba Senta Biru, Chuo-ku, Osaka, near Takashimaya. Uniqlo on 1F-2F, LOFT on 3F-4F.

2. Two full floors; we only browsed one, mainly trying pens. My child loved it—all sorts of pencils, colored pens, markers, pens, in different colors and materials. Also notebooks, planners, calendars, erasers, folders. We lost track of time, and when closing time came, we hurriedly bought and left, no time for Uniqlo downstairs.

Itinerary:

DAY1 Osaka: Namba stroll, overnight Osaka.

DAY2 Takamatsu: Osaka-Takamatsu, overnight Takamatsu; visited Takamatsu Art Museum, Hyogo-cho.

DAY3 Naoshima, overnight Takamatsu.

DAY4 Shodoshima, overnight Takamatsu.

DAY5 Teshima, overnight Takamatsu.

DAY6 Tokushima & Naruto: Takamatsu-Tokushima, overnight Tokushima; Otsuka Museum, Awa Odori.

DAY7 Kobe: Tokushima-Kobe via Awaji Yumebutai, overnight Kobe.

DAY8 Kobe: Mount Rokko Pasture, overnight Kobe.

DAY9 Himeji: Himeji Castle, overnight Osaka.

DAY10 Osaka: Osaka Aquarium, Legoland Discovery Center, overnight Osaka.

DAY11 Depart Osaka.

Concluding thoughts:

When I came back, I was all excitement and rosy-cheeked, not a trace of fatigue. A bellyful of emotions and words, bubbling up, so full they get stuck; and the unbelievable 1,000+ photos hogging my phone memory—normally, three of us together yield few photos, but just two this time produced so many. That stumped me, a non-editing procrastinator. I barely managed to write up the Setouchi Triennale section, the rest languished in the drafts box for months.

Now, a new mom-and-child journey is about to set sail, and the excitement wells up again, finally pushing me to record this trip.

I hope it gives a little courage, a little strength to those with similar wishes.

If you liked it, please like and bookmark.

Any questions, leave a comment below.

Travelogue contents:

1. Super travel companion here

2. Gains: Most important, the little boy's growth

3. Sneak peek

4. Art: Island-hopping in Seto Inland Sea

5. Painting: 'Masterpieces' on porcelain panels

6. Culture: Watching an Awa Odori performance

7. Plants: Stumbling into a plant world