Kyoto, a Timeless Beauty

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As a first trip to Japan, most people's first thought is bustling Tokyo, cosmopolitan Osaka, or the winter resort of Hokkaido. Like many, I initially thought Kyoto would just be a transit stop between Kanto and Kansai on our seven-day, six-night itinerary, so I didn't have high expectations. Visiting in winter, without the cherry blossoms of spring or the colorful autumn leaves, and even the Sagano Romantic Train suspended—what could we do in Kyoto? But after visiting Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto, Nara, and Osaka, my family unanimously agreed that Kyoto has the most charm and best reflects Japan's traditional character. Without further ado, let's get right into it.

Arriving in Kyoto, a must-visit is Arashiyama. Located in the western suburbs of Kyoto, Arashiyama is a scenic natural area that includes the area around Togetsukyo Bridge and the Sagano region. Its cherry blossoms and maple leaves are famous, and the beautiful Sagano Bamboo Grove also exudes a unique Kyoto charm. Additionally, there are many well-known temples and shrines scattered throughout Arashiyama. The most famous attraction here is the steam-powered sightseeing train—the Sagano Romantic Train—which offers a romantic way to explore Arashiyama and the Hozugawa Gorge. However, upon arrival, we were told it was temporarily suspended. With elderly parents and a child in tow, I had to choose another mode of transportation: a boat ride downstream.

Rafting in Japan during winter was unexpected. As it was the off-season, there were few tourists, with only four boats per day. After patiently waiting for over an hour, we finally boarded a boat setting off from the Hozugawa River. Once on board, the boatman introduced his team in broken English: the captain—the helmsman; crew member No. 1—the pole operator; and himself—the rower. He then asked about the passengers. Among the 15 guests, only one was Japanese, accompanying her Taiwanese boyfriend; the rest were from around the world. After a simple and humorous icebreaker, our wooden boat drifted downstream.

After passing Hozu Bridge, the current alternated between slow and fast. When it was slow, we could admire the beautiful scenery on both banks. The trees on the hillsides were lush and dense, standing close together in rows, competing to grow upward. Their straight trunks, over ten meters tall, had no branches, with crowns like hats perched on top. Colorful stones dotted the riverbank, and the boatman would occasionally point to one and use simple English words to describe its shape—remarkably vivid. Wild ducks, egrets, mandarin ducks, and other waterfowl inhabited the river, swimming or foraging, some playing in groups, others meditating alone. As our wooden boat passed, the birds skimmed the water's surface and took flight, creating a peaceful, natural scene. Delighted, I quickly grabbed my phone to capture the beauty, but the boatman warned of rapids. Just as it seemed the boat would hit a rock on the side, before I could even scream, the boatman used his pole to adjust our direction, and in an instant, the wooden boat shot through a narrow gap between rocks, rushing downstream with the rapids. Water splashed, and the passengers cheered and laughed, their voices echoing through the gorge.

Thus, we drifted with the current, enjoying the scenery while chatting and laughing. The boatman occasionally performed unique tricks: twirling his pole, walking a tightrope along the gunwale, plunging the pole into the water and then smoothly catching it... Soon, the rafting trip neared its end. After passing the last rapid, the water gradually widened and calmed. In the distance, we saw a bridge spanning the river. The boatman said that was Togetsukyo Bridge, once visited by Premier Zhou Enlai. Realizing we would soon disembark, I eagerly asked the boatman if I could try rowing. He happily agreed and taught me and my son the technique. A few strokes were enough to realize it's not easy work—no wonder they were sweating even in winter. Good times always pass quickly. After docking, we reluctantly got off, bidding farewell to the boatmen.

After getting off, a light drizzle began. We followed the crowd to the head of Togetsukyo Bridge. The crossroad led to a traditional Japanese shopping street lined with shops offering a dizzying array of snacks, souvenirs, and fashion items. It was somewhat similar to Tokyo's Asakusa, but the streets were slightly wider, less crowded, and less commercial. The food also had more Kyoto characteristics, such as matcha-flavored cold drinks and various dishes made from tofu. In the misty rain, a few women in kimono holding umbrellas became highlights of the street. Occasionally, a rickshaw carrying tourists passed by, as if taking us back to Kyoto's streets decades ago.

We walked on and reached the Sagano Bamboo Grove. The bamboo was tall and dense, and the air in the bamboo forest was fresh in the rain. But honestly, compared to bamboo groves in Sichuan or Jiangsu-Zhejiang in China, this one was far less impressive. Passing through the bamboo grove led us to the back gate of Tenryu-ji Temple. Since the next day's itinerary was full of temples and shrines, we skipped Tenryu-ji.

Pressed for time, we reluctantly left Arashiyama and took a bus to our next stop: Kinkaku-ji. Officially named Rokuon-ji, it is commonly known as the Golden Pavilion because the main building's exterior is entirely covered in gold leaf. The temple was built in 1397 as the villa of Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu (the prototype for General Yori in the anime "Ikkyu-san"). "Ikkyu-san" was a cartoon that accompanied our generation growing up, so I already felt a fondness for Kinkaku-ji before visiting. Another unique aspect: after buying tickets, we received not admission tickets but paper talismans with blessings written on them.

Kinkaku-ji is surrounded by a pond. It is said that the garden, centered on the Golden Pavilion, represents the Pure Land of Sukhavati, with the pond called Kyoko-chi reflecting the pavilion—a iconic Kyoto scene. As the rain continued to fall gently, raindrops hit the pond's surface, creating ripples. The Golden Pavilion looked even more enchanting in the rain, unique and graceful. I couldn't help but think: Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu must have been happy living here!

The rain grew heavier, so we ended our visit to Kinkaku-ji quickly and drove to Kani Doraku for a delicious meal, starting the main event—our daughter's birthday dinner. The whole family sat together, enjoying crab cuisine and experiencing Japanese food culture, full of joy. After singing the birthday song and enjoying a handmade Japanese birthday cake, the perfect day in Kyoto came to an end.

Japanese cuisine is closely tied to its geography and culture. Japan has limited ingredients, unlike China's vast array of dishes. With simple cooking methods, exquisite plating, and modest portions, Japanese cuisine maximizes the natural flavors of ingredients while maintaining a cultural habit of resource conservation. In Kyoto, one must try local specialties. Whether it's the shopping street in Arashiyama or the Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka slopes in front of Kiyomizu-dera, they are crowded with various local delicacies. Strolling and snacking along the way, my biggest regret was having only one stomach.

Kyoto's most famous product is tofu. The tofu here is incredibly smooth. The fried tofu could be mistaken for fish cake, with a cheese filling that bursts—no wonder the queue was so long.

Tofu udon: a vegetarian dish with pure tofu broth, slightly sweet, paired with chewy udon noodles—smooth and not greasy.

It is said that matcha originated in Kyoto, so various desserts, cold drinks, and even tea served with meals are matcha-flavored.

In addition, we also dined at Kani Doraku in Kyoto. The dining environment and the taste of the dishes were excellent. They use various cooking methods to prepare every part of the crab, served with side dishes, course by course, creating a sense of ceremony.

Kani Doraku offers set meals at various prices, about 200–600 RMB per person. Although a bit pricey, it's worth trying once.

Due to time constraints, our Kyoto trip was a fairly superficial one, without time for deep appreciation. Also, because we visited in winter, we didn't see Kyoto adorned with cherry blossoms. Every trip brings gains and some regrets, but regrets are reasons and hopes for returning. I hope to visit again in spring when flowers bloom, to slowly savor Kyoto's thousand-year history, its bustling temples, Arashiyama's romantic scenery, Gion's traditional arts, and the street's local culture. Regardless, the brief stay in Kyoto was a delightful surprise of our Japan trip—a timeless beauty.

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