#Huxi's Sky#: 14-Day Kansai Free Travel Diary – D4: Shirahama One-Day Tour, Sandanbeki, Senjojiki, Engetsu Island, etc.

May 26, 2025. Today I started using the Kansai Wide Area Railway Pass. Destination: Kii-Katsuura, with a stop in Shirahama for a one-day tour.

Since I couldn't get reserved seats on the limited express train, I took a local train to Shirahama. I chose an early train (departure at 6:04 AM; this route requires a transfer at Kii-Tanabe Station, but the transfer time is only 2 minutes, and the platform is right next to it—no need to cross the bridge to another platform) to avoid peak hours and arrive in Shirahama as early as possible. That meant leaving the hotel before 5:00 AM (missing a nice buffet breakfast). Luckily, the sky gets light early in Japan, so it didn't feel like traveling in the dark.

At 5:50 AM, I waited on the platform and saw the legendary Panda Train (fully reserved seats).

Two hours later, I arrived at Shirahama Station.

After exiting, I went to the self-service luggage storage room nearby and stored two 24-inch suitcases for 600 yen per bag per day, then set off light.

The loop bus arrived. I bought a one-day pass from the driver for 1,100 yen.

The front of the pass has scratch-off numbers for year, month, and day; scratch the corresponding numbers to activate the pass.

The back shows all the bus stop names and codes for easy reference. When getting off, just show the pass to the driver.

At 9:00 AM, we reached the first scenic spot—Sandanbeki.

Sandanbeki is a cliff about two kilometers north of Shirahama, with a depth of about 60 meters. It is named after three different rock types: igneous, metamorphic, and sedimentary rock.

Billions of years ago, underwater volcanic activity formed this magnificent cliff. The roaring waves of the Pacific Kumano Sea have carved out a variety of erosion landscapes. Especially during spring tides, the rising tide, pushed by the northeast wind, crashes into the cliff, creating spectacular splashes—truly amazing.

This is also one of the most famous rock fishing spots in southern Honshu, known for large black sea bream in winter and early spring. Anglers often gather under the steep cliffs, and you can sometimes see intense battles between humans and fish.

Lipstick Monument—a poignant legend, a stone bearing witness to a vow.

After visiting the captivating Sandanbeki area, the next stop was Senjojiki, just a ten-minute walk away.

Senjojiki is a geological formation that resembles many layers of tatami mats stacked together. The sloping rock protruding from Seto-zaki towards the Pacific has been eroded by violent waves, creating a majestic landscape—like a piece of art co-created by the land and the sea.

Nature is so magical; you can't imagine such beauty until you see it in person.

Around noon, we headed to the next stop for lunch: Toretore Market, by bus.

A dazzling array of seafood—so many choices, I wanted to try everything.

Freshly cut tuna attracted many customers.

WeChat Pay was accepted. My portion cost 2,350 yen (118.8 yuan). Maybe it was a different part of the fish; compared to Kuroshio Market, the texture was slightly less impressive.

Then we picked some staple foods and sushi for 2,900 yen (146.6 yuan), and we were full.

Toretore Market also has a dedicated barbecue area on two floors.

After lunch, we took the bus to Shirarahama (White Beach).

Shirarahama is known as one of the most beautiful beaches in Kansai, famous for its 620-meter white sand beach and clear water. The sand is fine and white, specially imported from Australia.

Summer is the peak season, and visitors can enjoy swimming, sunbathing, diving, beach volleyball, beach biking, and surfing.

In May, the water is still too cold for swimming; just playing in the water is fine.

Since there was a landslide on the mountain road near Engetsu Island and it was under repair, the bus couldn't enter. But it wasn't far from Shirarahama—just about two stops away.

[Image: road under repair seen from a zoomed-in view]

Ofune Foot Bath is a free foot-soaking hot spring. After walking most of the day, it was perfect for relaxing tired feet.

Soaking your feet while enjoying the view of Engetsu Island—what a pleasure!

After the foot bath, we still had some time to explore other parts of Shirahama.

From a distance, it looked like an amusement park, but it turned out to be a luxury hotel.

Amashirazu Bridge offered a different scene—clean mountains and clear water.

Seagulls were not afraid of people.

Time was almost up. We took the bus back to Shirahama Station, completing the mission of the one-day pass.

Took a quick photo at Shirahama Station.

Took the 5:20 PM limited express train to Kii-Katsuura.

Waiting on the platform. The train was delayed, arriving at 5:43 PM.

Arrived at Kii-Katsuura Station. Found the booked hotel (Blue Pier Business Hotel, just a few minutes' walk from the station) and checked in smoothly.

The room was decently sized, L-shaped, with twin beds and full amenities.

After settling in, we went out to find dinner. The streets were quiet; by nearly 8:00 PM, surprisingly, all the nearby shops were closed, including the supermarket.

Kii-Katsuura Station was also empty.

We passed by this restaurant (photo taken the next day; it was too dark that night).

We went in. The owner said they were closing at 8:30 PM. If we could finish our meal within half an hour after it was served, they could cook for us. Of course we had to finish in half an hour—otherwise we'd go hungry tonight.

Due to the time constraint, we quickly ordered a set meal and a regular meal.

I never expected such a rushed dinner in Kii-Katsuura—a special travel experience, indeed.