Travelogue of Czech Republic, Austria, and Hungary in Summer 2019 (Part 1)
My son's university follows the Hong Kong academic calendar, where final exams end in early June, so summer break starts relatively early. We immediately began applying for Czech visas, went to the Guangzhou visa center to submit fingerprints, and got the visas in about ten days. Then we confirmed the previously booked flights and hotels. In late June, our family of three, along with my mother-in-law, set off.
Days 1 & 2: Zhuhai - Hong Kong - Doha - Prague
In the afternoon, we took a ferry from Zhuhai Jiuzhou Port to Hong Kong Airport's SkyPier, checked in and dropped off luggage, then entered Hong Kong Airport to board a flight, transiting through Doha to Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic.
On the morning of the second day, we arrived at Václav Havel Airport Prague. The hotel driver was waiting for us at the exit. We first went to the currency exchange counter in the terminal to exchange some Czech koruna for cash (about 0.3 RMB per koruna).
We arrived at the Prague Junhao Hotel, where we would stay for the next few days, at 9 a.m. The hotel was in a very old Baroque-style building, with a small entrance, a compact but clean lobby, and a lounge. Check-in was only available in the afternoon.
After storing our luggage, we walked to Prague Main Station, not far from the hotel. This is the largest railway station in the Czech Republic, old and beautiful, built in 1871, originally called Franz Joseph Station after the Austro-Hungarian monarch Franz Joseph I, now known as Praha Hlavní Nádraží.
The station has many restaurants, cafes, supermarkets, and travel agencies. The main hall has ticket vending machines and a ticket office, as well as booths selling subway tickets and city transport passes. The waiting area is small with few seats, with a large screen and several small screens showing departing train platform information, usually only available 15 minutes before departure.
Public transport in Prague includes buses, subways, and trams, all using a unified ticket system. Adult fares: 24 CZK (30 minutes), 32 CZK (90 minutes), 110 CZK (24 hours), 310 CZK (72 hours), etc. Children (6-15) and seniors (60-70) get half price, while toddlers (under 6) and seniors (over 70) travel free. When entering the subway, you must validate your ticket in a yellow box to stamp the entry time. If you forget, and a staff member checks upon exit, you face a fine of 800 CZK.
There is a subway station connected beneath the main station. Prague's metro has three lines: green A, yellow B, and red C. For a small group, taking the bus is economical, but for our party of four, it was more convenient and cost-effective to call a taxi.
We bought tickets to Kutná Hora and Vienna at the ticket office, confirming dates and seats. For the Vienna ticket, seat reservation required a fee depending on availability; the journey took about four hours. We secured four seats facing each other near a luggage rack. The ticket to Kutná Hora was valid for two days with no fixed train, allowing us to choose any train. The ticket clerk kindly printed a timetable for us. The station has no gates, allowing free access to platforms; passengers must check the platform information themselves before boarding.
After touring the station inside and out, we walked to the nearby State Opera, which was under renovation and could only be viewed from outside.
Further ahead was the National Museum, consisting of an old building and a new one. The old building, the main National Museum, had a platform facing Wenceslas Square, where a majestic equestrian statue of Saint Wenceslas stood.
Entering the main building, we asked about tickets. The clerk patiently explained the various exhibits and prices. We chose a ticket that allowed visits to nine museums within five days: adult 260 CZK, student 170 CZK, free for seniors over 70. The museums included: the main National Museum, the new National Museum, the Naprstek Museum (of Asian, African, and American cultures), the National Museum of Ethnography, the National Monument at Vítkov, the Lapidarium (stone sculpture museum), the Czech Museum of Music, the Antonín Dvořák Museum, and the Bedřich Smetana Museum.
The main National Museum was built in 1885 after the French Revolution, designed by the renowned Czech Neo-Renaissance architect Josef Schulz. The building resembles a palace, with exquisite sculptural decorations. At the entrance stand statues of the gods of history and natural history, showcasing Neo-Renaissance architectural style.
The museum suffered damage from multiple wars, leaving scars that evoke reflection. After years of extensive restoration, it reopened, and we were fortunate to visit. It houses nearly 14 million items in natural history, history, art, music, and library collections, also covering archaeology from the Neolithic to the 10th century.
By the time we finished, it was past noon, and we were too tired to visit the new building next door. Since our hotel was nearby, we decided to rest and return to the new building later.
We descended the steps of the main museum, crossed the street to Wenceslas Square, the most important and bustling commercial and social center of Prague. Originally one of three markets planned by Charles IV when he founded the New Town, Wenceslas Avenue (750m long, 60m wide) and the square form the heart of the New Town. This avenue is called Prague's Champs-Élysées, lined with elegant classic buildings from the early 20th century, surrounded by numerous hotels, restaurants, and shops, crowded with tourists.
Walking along this historically significant modern street, we saw young street performers, and the square had lawns and benches for resting, as well as kiosks selling various snacks. We had lunch at a restaurant called Vytopna Railway. The restaurant was on the second floor of a modern building, and we wondered why it was called a railway restaurant. Inside, we understood: beer and drinks were delivered by miniature electric trains.
Miniature trains ran along tracks between tables, delivering drinks directly to customers. Compared to human service, this whimsical method was efficient, fast, and novel, prompting guests to take photos—sometimes so long that the train left without them collecting their drinks! Typical Prague dishes include roast duck leg, roast pork knuckle, beef stew, and sausages—honestly, the food was unremarkable, but the house-brewed beer was excellent. We sampled several different flavors.
Around 4 p.m., satisfied, we walked back a few hundred meters to the hotel, checked in, showered, rested, and adjusted to the time difference. By the next morning, we had recovered our spirits.
Day 3
The hotel's ground-floor restaurant was quite large. Although the breakfast selection wasn't as varied as in Chinese hotels, it was sufficient for us.
The day was sunny with some clouds. After breakfast, we called a taxi to the National Museum of Ethnography, passing by the Dancing House (also known as Fred and Ginger, named after the dancers Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers). Standing out among Neo-Baroque, Neo-Gothic, and Art Nouveau buildings, the Dancing House is a famous and representative structure in Prague, also called the Drunken House.
Its architectural style seemed out of place with the surrounding buildings, and it was used as a hotel restaurant. The building received more criticism than praise from planning to completion, with its designer, Frank Gehry, often called an alien American architect who ignored local context and imposed American experiences. Czechs jokingly called the glass tower on the corner a twisted Coca-Cola bottle, and many considered it the second bomb dropped by the US in Europe after WWII, a symbol destroying the city's texture.
The driver dropped us off outside a yellow building, which we later learned was Kinský Summer Palace, surrounded by Kinský Gardens. This building was not a museum but appeared to be a rehabilitation center for the disabled. Going through a side gate, we saw a white two-story building, the real National Museum of Ethnography.
Founded in 1896, the museum collects unique traditional folk cultural artifacts from the Czech Republic and other European countries. It now has a permanent exhibition of folk culture from Bohemia, Moravia, and Silesia, displaying folk costumes, handicrafts, and fine arts, as well as related customs. The rural exhibition showed us daily life in Bohemian villages at the end of the 19th and early 20th centuries.
After leaving the museum, we walked down through the large garden, encountering many students on field trips and picnics.
We sat on a bench by the street outside, enjoying the street view while waiting for a taxi.
Soon, we took a taxi to the Smetana Museum on the Vltava River, right next to Charles Bridge. The scenery was beautiful, and there were many tourists.
A statue of Smetana stood at the museum entrance.
Inside were displayed works, letters, and photographs of the famous Czech composer, conductor, and pianist Bedřich Smetana, detailing his life story. He was a passionate patriot who promoted national music, a founder of Czech classical music, a pioneer of Czech national opera, and the founder of the Czech national music school.
In 1874, he became deaf but continued to create. His most famous works include the symphonic poem cycle Má vlast (My Homeland), consisting of six independent symphonic poems, and the String Quartet No. 1, From My Life.
Charles Bridge was built from 1357 to 1400, measuring 520m long, 10m wide, with 16 arches, spanning the Vltava River in Prague.
The bridge was commissioned by King Charles IV of Bohemia, hence its name. It is one of the oldest surviving bridges in the Czech Republic and a vital connection between Prague's Old Town, Lesser Town, and Prague Castle, part of the Royal Route (Coronation Route).
Modeled after Rome's Ponte Sant'Angelo, Charles Bridge is a perfect blend of Gothic bridge-building art and Baroque sculpture.
At one end stands a full-body statue of Charles IV, flanked by Gothic gate towers with Baroque reliefs.
The bridge's stone railings feature 30 statues of Catholic saints and protectors, in forms of goddesses, warriors, human-headed animals, and animal-headed humans.
Some parts of a bronze statue have been polished shiny by tourists' touch.
The eighth statue on the right, of Saint John of Nepomuk, is the bridge's guardian. A golden cross in the railing marks the spot where he was thrown into the river.
Charles Bridge, with its long history and unique architecture, is one of the most famous landmarks in the Czech Republic.
On the bridge, you can watch artists perform and craftsmen creating works, making it a showcase for Prague's art. You can also buy artworks, watercolors of Charles Bridge, puppets dressed in traditional Czech and court costumes, and more.
Crossing the bridge and passing through the Lesser Town Bridge Tower, we entered the Lesser Town. On the roadside was a shop selling bread and ice cream, with a long queue. We joined the line and watched as chefs made hollow bread on the spot, then filled it with various ice creams. The bread was still warm when handed to us, while the ice cream inside was refreshingly cool.
After enjoying the cool ice cream and sweet bread, we arrived at the square of the Prague Monastery, next to a wall covered in graffiti, where many people were taking photos. This was the Lennon Wall. Originally an ordinary wall, people began writing John Lennon-style graffiti and Beatles lyrics on it in the 1980s. In 1988, the wall became a source for Czechs to vent their anger against the Husák communist regime. Today, the Lennon Wall is a symbolic expression of youth ideals.
Then we walked to the Czech Museum of Music, navigating through small streets and lanes while admiring the various Baroque buildings, which was quite pleasant.
The Czech Museum of Music is housed in a typical 17th-century Baroque building, with a beautiful courtyard inside, offering a picturesque and comfortable environment. It was founded in 1976.
The museum displays a vast amount of historical materials on Czech and European music culture, including archives, private collections, rare manuscript copies from the 16th to 20th centuries, and old printed scores. It also collects records published by Czech companies over decades.
The collection includes over 2,500 musical instruments, such as violins, guitars, lutes, trumpets, flutes, and harmonicas, some of which are unique Renaissance pieces from the 16th and 17th centuries, showcasing the history and relationship between humans and musical instruments.
The Czech Republic is one of the more developed countries in Eastern Europe for music culture, having produced world-renowned masters like Smetana and Dvořák, and having welcomed geniuses like Mozart.
After the visit, we headed toward Lesser Town Square, passing and visiting the Church of Our Lady Victorious. This church has a side altar dedicated to the Infant Jesus of Prague. It originated in the 17th century, when people had special devotion to the infant Jesus born in a manger—the Son of God. Therefore, God bestowed many special graces on those who honor the Infant Jesus.
The statue of the Infant Jesus of Prague, made of wax, comes from Spain, 19 inches tall, dressed in royal robes and a beautiful jeweled crown. The right hand of the little Jesus is raised in blessing, while his left hand holds a globe, symbolizing God's infinite authority.
We arrived at a restaurant called U Glaubicu near Lesser Town Square. It was very busy, but luckily a small table's guests had just finished and kindly offered it to us. The food was unremarkable, but the beer was excellent.
Across from the restaurant was the Church of St. Nicholas, with a bell tower soaring into the sky. The entrance to the bell tower was not through the main church door but through a side door, directly opposite the restaurant where we had just eaten. After lunch and a short rest, we bought tickets and climbed the bell tower to enjoy the beauty of Prague from above. The old bell tower, slightly restored, still retained its original interior. The location was good, facing the Vltava River, but obstructed views meant we couldn't see the main span of Charles Bridge. The viewing area at the top was small, but the scenery was excellent.
Afterward, we took a taxi to the Czech State Opera House on the Vltava River, hoping to catch a performance. The State Opera House has a long history, a magnificent building, and a luxurious interior. It has also staged the most traditional Czech performing art—puppet shows. The most famous opera performed here is Mozart's Don Giovanni.
We went to the ticket office in the square behind to check the schedule. We wanted to see a symphony concert, but the staff told us there were no symphony performances at that theater recently; instead, we should go to the Smetana Hall in the Municipal House. He told us it was about a 15-minute walk down the main street. Along the street were many shops, restaurants, bars, and churches. We went into a church, rested in its courtyard, and then continued until we saw a tall tower—the Powder Tower.
This tower was once a gate in the city walls built to protect the Old Town, one of the original 13 gates. In the 15th century, a tower was rebuilt on the site of the old gate as a coronation gift from the city council to the king, not primarily for defense. In the 17th century, it was used as a gunpowder store, hence its name. In the 16th century, the king allowed alchemists to study there, and in the 18th century, it stored sacred vessels from St. Vitus Cathedral. From afar, the Powder Tower appears completely black.
But up close, the building is decorated with exquisitely beautiful reliefs, mostly statues of Bohemian monarchs and Czech patron saints. The design was inspired by Charles Bridge. It now serves as a small museum exhibiting medieval art, astronomy, and alchemy artifacts. The black Gothic spire of the Powder Tower is 65 meters tall, one of Prague's landmarks, and remains the starting point of the Coronation Route to the castle, a main entrance to the Old Town. Next to the Powder Tower is the magnificent Municipal House, a concert hall and landmark in Prague, important both architecturally and politically. Construction began in 1905 and was completed in 1912.
This Art Nouveau building was a crystallization of Czech nationalism at the time, decorated by top Czech artists. Above the main entrance is a large ceramic semicircular mosaic, a painting titled Homage to Prague, flanked by allegorical sculptures by Ladislav Šaloun. The interior is also decorated with murals by masters, all on nationalist themes.
The main space in the Municipal House is the Smetana Hall, used for concerts. On October 28, 1918, the Smetana Hall was where the independence of Czechoslovakia was declared. At the ticket office, we were lucky to get tickets for a concert at 7:30 p.m. by Fazıl Say, one of the world's greatest living pianists and composers.
There were two restaurants on the ground floor of the Municipal House. We chose the busier one for dinner and paid after eating, then entered the hall. The Smetana Hall was simple and elegant, with a large pipe organ on stage.
A huge Steinway piano rose slowly from below the stage. Fazıl Say performed with the renowned Prague Symphony Orchestra, a strong lineup. The program consisted of Say's own compositions. Even I, a musical layman, could feel the wonderful imagery of mountains, rivers, forests, and oceans, while my son, a violinist in his school orchestra, was mesmerized.
The audience in Prague had high appreciation, expressing emotions with applause in sync with the music's atmosphere and rhythm without disrupting the performance. After the final piece, the entire audience stood and applauded rhythmically for a long time. Say returned for an encore. It was truly a musical feast.
The hotel was only about 800 meters away, so we walked back after the concert. Although the shops along the street were closed, their window displays were still glamorous, and the lights were dazzling.
Day 4
Sunny with some clouds. After breakfast, we took a taxi to the Lapidarium (stone sculpture museum), located in the exhibition area, which was full of palace-like buildings.
The Lapidarium was founded in 1898 and now houses over 3,000 stone sculptures from the 11th to the 19th centuries, showcasing the highest achievements of traditional stone carving in Bohemia.
Then we took a taxi to the Naprstek Museum, founded in the 19th century, which collects and displays many anthropological artifacts from Asia, Africa, and the Americas, showcasing the unique cultures and histories of indigenous peoples.
After the visit, we walked through beautiful small streets to the Old Town Square, passing the Church of St. Giles, which stood among crowded Baroque buildings, with only its spire visible.
We went inside and saw exquisite bronze statues, reliefs, and interior decorations reflecting the church's long history.
Walking through interesting alleys, we arrived at the Old Town Square, bustling with restaurants, cafes, souvenir shops, food stalls, and crowds of tourists.
Prague's Old Town Square was one of the most important trade markets in Central Europe from the 11th to 12th centuries and the site of political events that determined national history, with a 900-year history. The square is surrounded by landmarks such as the Old Town Hall, Týn Church, and St. Nicholas Church.
We entered the Old Town Hall, built in 1338 and once a royal palace. When the royal family moved to Prague Castle in the late 15th century, it was abandoned for centuries until 1911 when it became a cultural center.
Above the main entrance of the Old Town Hall is a mosaic by Špilář titled Homage to Prague, depicting Prague's history. The Smetana Hall in the town hall often hosts concerts. On the southern exterior wall is the famous Astronomical Clock (Pražský orloj), a medieval clock that still keeps accurate time, an exquisite self-striking clock. The clock tower was built in 1410, designed according to the geocentric principle, consisting of three main parts: the astronomical dial, the Walk of the Apostles, and the calendar dial.
The astronomical dial represents the positions of the sun and moon in the sky and shows various astronomical details. The Walk of the Apostles is a clockwork mechanism that shows apostles and other moving figures every hour. The calendar dial has medallions representing the months. The upper dial completes one revolution per day, the lower one per year.
The Astronomical Clock chimes on the hour. Around noon, more and more tourists gathered to watch the 12 o'clock chiming. The twelve apostles appear from the side windows, six turning left and six right, and when the rooster crows, the windows close, and the chime sounds.
There is a side door to climb the Old Town Hall Tower, from which you can overlook the entire Old Town. My son wanted to climb, but the wait was two hours, so we gave up.
In the center of the square stands a statue of Jan Hus, built in 1915 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the birth of Jan Hus, rector of Charles University.
Crossing the square, we visited Týn Church, which must be entered through a small alley in the middle of the square. Týn Church, also known as the Church of Our Lady before Týn, is a dominant building of Prague and the capital, and the main church of the area since the 14th century. It is the oldest building in the Old Town Square, with a dark exterior and two 80-meter spires shaped like burning torches, easily visible from any point in the square.
The Church of Our Lady before Týn is nicknamed the Church of the Devil due to its resemblance to a ghost town in fairy tales, with a mysterious dark gray exterior. Originally built in Romanesque style, it was later Gothicized, and by the 15th century, it took its present form. According to legend, the two towers represent Adam and Eve. After 1620, the church's appearance and altar decoration gained Baroque features, including famous sculptures and paintings of Jesus.
Walking along the northeast street of the Old Town, we found a distinctive small restaurant for lunch. The roast pork knuckle was good, and the beer was still excellent.
After lunch, we took a taxi to the Dvořák Museum, located southwest of Wenceslas Square, in a Baroque villa designed by the famous Prague architect Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer.
The museum commemorates the most famous Czech composer of the 19th century, Antonín Dvořák, the first Bohemian composer to gain worldwide recognition and a leader of the Czech national music movement. The exhibits include clippings, photographs, manuscripts, and instruments like a piano and violin, showcasing the master's life story.
On the second floor were a piano that Dvořák played and a few rows of seats for the audience. There was also a room where visitors could play recordings of his works.
We rested for a while in the garden courtyard downstairs before walking back to the top of Wenceslas Square to visit the new building of the Czech National Museum, located next to the main museum. This modern building was once the headquarters of Radio Free Europe. As the collection grew, the main building could no longer accommodate all items, so many exhibits were moved here. We stayed until closing time.
A ten-minute walk brought us back near the hotel. Exhausted from the day's sightseeing, we chose a nearby restaurant for dinner and then returned to the hotel to rest.
Day 5
It was a cool, sunny morning with some clouds. After breakfast, we called a taxi to Vyšehrad.
Vyšehrad was founded in the 10th century on a hill by the Vltava River, with a cliff on the river side.
As the birthplace of Czech royal power, legend says that Princess Libuše of the Bohemian dynasty fell in love with a handsome farmer and gave birth to a son, founding the Přemyslid dynasty. For centuries, all Bohemian kings were crowned here. In 1883, Vyšehrad became a district of Prague, and together with other parts of Prague, it has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Unlike the bustling city center, Vyšehrad is quieter and more serene. Its elevated position offers a great vantage point to overlook the entire city of Prague.
We got off at the parking lot nearest to Vyšehrad, crossed a stone bridge, and passed through Leopold Gate, built in 1670.
Vyšehrad is protected by thick walls built of bricks several meters wide. Walking along the wall allowed us to admire the city of Prague and the Vltava River from all sides.
Inside the gate, we saw the oldest of Prague's only three surviving Romanesque rotundas: the Rotunda of St. Martin, a small, cylindrical, and charming structure.
Further ahead, we saw the Gothic double-spired Church of Saints Peter and Paul. On the north side of the church lies the famous Vyšehrad Cemetery, where Dvořák, Smetana, and many other famous Prague artists, writers, and musicians are buried. The tombstones are mostly elaborately decorated with sculptures, some by famous artists, exuding a strong artistic atmosphere.
On the south side of the church is a large grassy garden with four groups of male and female statues, all characters from Bohemian legend.
We viewed the historic city of Prague from various positions in Vyšehrad. The bridges over the Vltava and the natural scenery were especially beautiful.
Half a day passed quickly. When we walked out of the gate and waited for a taxi at the parking lot, we saw a large group of motorcyclists zooming out, presumably heading to some gathering.
We drove to the foot of Vítkov Hill, where the National Monument stands at the top. The giant statue of the Bohemian commander Jan Žižka can be seen, evoking an exciting history. In 1420, it was here that Jan Žižka led local soldiers and civilians to defeat the powerful Crusaders.
We intended to go up, but the long steps discouraged us.
After strolling around the nearby streets, we took a taxi to the U Fleků restaurant for lunch. U Fleků has been a famous brewery and restaurant for over 500 years. From the street, we saw a sign with a clock bearing the name U Fleků. The entrance was small and unremarkable, with nothing special.
There were a few tourists walking by, but once inside, we found it bustling. At the back of the restaurant was a large courtyard. The tables and benches, both inside and outside, were long wooden ones, like those in a canteen, where people sat on both sides, making strangers quickly become familiar.
Tourists from all over the world gathered here. The waitstaff wore green aprons and ran around carrying large trays. We found an empty table and sat down. Occasionally, a waiter would walk by with a tray full of black and yellow draft beer. We signaled for two glasses each of black and yellow beer—refreshing! There was also a small glass of the famous absinthe. We had a few glasses; it was sweet with a hint of bitterness, similar to whiskey, and quite strong—too much could make you dizzy!
As for food, we ordered various types; Western food was all the same, with meat, vegetables, and staples.
During the meal, two middle-aged men walked around the tables, playing music: one playing the accordion and the other the tuba. Happy guests gave tips, creating a joyful, warm, and beautiful atmosphere!
After the meal, we strolled along the old streets back to the nearby Wenceslas Square. My wife wanted to go shopping; my mother-in-law was tired and asked my son to accompany her back to the hotel. I reluctantly accompanied my wife. She never tires of shopping. Eventually, I got tired and sat on a bench in the pedestrian zone, watching some young street performers. They seemed quite talented, and tourists occasionally gave them small change.
In the middle of the street, there was a bread-and-ice-cream kiosk, its aroma enticing. I got up and bought one, and the change I received could be given to the young street performers, who really worked hard.
As I was eating the ice cream, the sky suddenly darkened. Soon, large raindrops began to fall. I quickly took shelter in a nearby shop. Fortunately, the rain stopped in less than ten minutes, coming and going quickly. The sun shone brightly again. Not until sunset did my wife reluctantly finish her shopping. We returned to the nearby hotel, picked up my rested mother-in-law and son, and went out to find dinner.
Passing through the square between the main museum and the new one, we saw the complicated tracks and overhead wires of Prague Main Station from the bridge behind. Across the bridge, on the street corner, was a restaurant called Ztráty Nálezy, with rustic decor. As always, the beer was memorable.
When we walked back, the lights were already on. The main museum was illuminated, looking even more magnificent, and Wenceslas Square was more colorful than ever.
Day 6: Kutná Hora
According to the plan, today we visited Kutná Hora, about 70 km from Prague. The day was still sunny with some clouds. After breakfast, we walked to the station waiting hall.
Our train number had not yet displayed platform information. About ten minutes later, the platform appeared on the big screen. We went to the platform with other passengers. The platform display showed where each carriage would stop. We waited at the corresponding spot. Soon the train slowly approached. We boarded and sat wherever we wanted; it was a compartment with six seats. In about an hour, we arrived at Kutná Hora main station, but this was not yet the town. We had to transfer to a two-carriage local train to reach the town.
The local train stopped at a small station called Sedlec, which was as small as a bus stop. This was the closest stop to the Sedlec Ossuary (Bone Church). Getting off, we walked along the road beside the railway for a few minutes and saw a church blending Baroque and Gothic styles: the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and St. John the Baptist.
Crossing the road, there was a ticket office. After buying tickets, we walked a bit further to the Sedlec Ossuary. The church was built in the 14th century, with an ordinary Gothic exterior, but the interior was decorated entirely with human bones.
Due to the Black Death in the 14th century and wars in the 15th, over 30,000 graves appeared here. In the 16th century, a monk began moving bones into the church, piling them into pyramids. Because there were so many bones, someone eventually used them as decorative materials, creating the Bone Church. It is more of a Bone Museum than a church.
At the entrance, a chandelier was made of at least 120 human bones. The ceiling was lined with limb bones, and the wall patterns were also decorated with bones. The altar was built from different-sized bones, with patterns inlaid with ribs.
Everywhere you looked, there were crosses, crowns, and sashes made from various bone parts.
Under the stairs hung an ultra-luxurious bone chandelier, and there was a Baroque altar composed of four small skull towers.
On the ceiling above the altar lamp hung strings of skulls, all facing downward. Around the hall, there were four structures like furnaces built from skulls and large bones, each containing tens of thousands of people, all placed beneath the crown and throne of God.
Candlelight in the cave fell on the white bones. Other decorations included bone curtains, crosses, a papal crown, etc. The church exterior was under renovation, surrounded by flowers and tombstones.
After the visit, we also went to the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and St. John the Baptist, which was very tall and spacious, with simple interior decor. Since it was Sunday, many believers were attending Mass, and we listened to the bishop's sermon.
We didn't understand, so we checked the train timetable and returned to the small station ten minutes early to wait for the train to Kutná Hora town. In less than ten minutes, we arrived at the town station.
The town's buildings were built along a hill. We walked up the old streets.
The town was peaceful, serene, and picturesque. When we reached a spot not far from the Italian Court, we saw a procession of people dressed in medieval costumes, beating drums and blowing trumpets, walking toward us.
The procession ended at the Italian Court. We followed it inside.
In the courtyard stood a small fountain with a statue of a miner in the middle. In the 14th century, Italian craftsmen were the most skilled, so many Italian masters were invited here, giving the place its name.
Town residents in various medieval costumes kindly took photos with tourists in the open space in front.
The Italian Court is a complex Gothic building, with a history dating back to the late 13th century, when it served as a castle, a warehouse for silver ore, and fortifications.
Originally used as the central mint, for a long time the Italian Court was the economic center of the country. It housed the royal mint and a temporary palace for the Bohemian king. After a fire in 1770, the mint moved away, and the town hall moved into the Italian Court.
Now it is open to tourists, but the interior rooms are not.
Behind the Italian Court was the tall, dark Gothic Church of St. James. Not far ahead was the Silver Mine Museum, originally a 15th-century palace.
The museum exhibited the history of silver mining, the source of Kutná Hora's wealth.
After buying tickets, we toured with a guide. Besides seeing exhibitions and mining tunnels,
we changed into white robes similar to medieval miners, put on helmets with lamps, and descended 500 meters into a medieval mine, exploring under the town. There were two guides: a young lady led the way, a young man stayed at the back to ensure no one was left behind. In the hot summer, the mine was pleasantly cool. It was a novel and interesting silver mine tour.
After the tour, we had lunch at a restaurant on the town's street and then continued to St. Barbara's Church. The church is named after Barbara, a nurse in a church hospital. To honor her devoted care for miners, she was canonized as the patron saint of miners after her death. This church was not built with church funds but led by mine owners and contributed by miners, making it a church themed on silver mining.
However, it is also a famous unfinished project. The first stoppage lasted nearly a hundred years, the second over 500 years. Although the main structure was completed around 1905, it is only the main part; even today, some details remain unfinished. Still, the church is magnificent, with a unique fusion of Bohemian and Gothic styles. Its three spires look like three huge tents, and 27 spires on the exterior sides rise above flying buttresses.
Inside, there are high and deep net-like ribbed vaults and delicate rose windows. On a column, there is a statue of a miner holding a kerosene lantern, a work from 1700. The church has a large altar, eight radiating chapels, a choir, etc.
In this silver-mining-themed church, many medieval frescoes depict the mining of silver, coin minting, and silver crafting, recording the city's mining history.
In the hall, there are beautifully carved and crafted church benches. Climbing a staircase to the top, we saw a huge pipe organ decorated with golden sculptures.
We exited through a passage beside the seminary. The base of the stone railing along the passage was adorned with delicate sculptures, and the passage was lined with food and souvenir stalls, bustling with activity.
We returned to the station via a different street, passing a small square called Rejsek in the town center, where there was a stone structure shaped somewhat like a crown: the Gothic Stone Fountain, built in the 15th century, designed by architect Matyáš Rejsek.
The fountain's exterior was decorated with Gothic-style patterns, beautiful and novel. It once served as a public reservoir, providing drinking water to nearby residents through side outlets.
Most of the way back was downhill. The town's Gothic and Baroque buildings were built according to the terrain,
distinct yet harmonious, pleasing to the eye.
We returned to Prague by train in the evening. Although our mood was happy, our bodies were tired. We had dinner at Sherwood restaurant, diagonally across from the station, and then returned directly to the hotel to rest.
Day 7: Prague Castle
After breakfast, we set off to visit Prague Castle. The sun was shining brightly. It is located on the western bank of the Vltava River on Letná Hill, consisting of St. Vitus Cathedral and various palaces.
The castle was built in the 7th century, originally the residence of the Bohemian royalty. From a distance, one could see creamy yellow buildings, iron-gray churches, light green bell towers, and white spires. Prague Castle has been the office of successive presidents, hence also called the Presidential Palace.
Here are buildings in Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque, Renaissance, and other historical styles, with functions including churches, palaces, galleries, halls, statues, fountains, etc.
We took a taxi to the top of the hill, then walked through security check, passing through a hillside garden and a stone bridge in front of the castle, arriving at a tall gate.
There were two guard booths on each side of the gate, with two tall, handsome honor guards standing upright. After taking photos with them, we entered a large courtyard. Looking up, the spire of St. Vitus Cathedral stood prominently behind the cloister. There was a visitor center where we bought tickets. There were two types: one for 4 attractions, and another for 9. We chose the 9-attraction ticket.
Entering another courtyard of the castle, St. Vitus Cathedral loomed before us. Because it was so close to the second courtyard wall, it felt overwhelming, emphasizing the cathedral's height. St. Vitus Cathedral underwent three expansions. Its predecessor was a Romanesque rotunda of St. Wenceslas built in 929. In 1060, it was expanded into a basilica. The current Gothic building was begun in 1344, took over 600 years to complete, and was finished in 1929. It is also the site of coronations and the final resting place of Czech kings.
A long line of visitors stretched from the cathedral entrance into the square on the right, reminiscent of the queue at Beijing's Tiananmen Square for Chairman Mao's Mausoleum.
From the outside, the Gothic St. Vitus Cathedral has many classic architectural features, with the Great South Tower soaring into the sky, and the archivolts and flying buttresses above the door richly decorated. We queued and entered.
To the left, the colorful stained glass windows were the work of the famous Czech painter Alfons Mucha, adding a modern touch to this thousand-year-old cathedral.
Passing behind the altar, we saw the ornate silver tomb of St. John of Nepomuk, a Counter-Reformation figure from 1736. He was buried in St. Vitus Cathedral, with a magnificent silver decoration in his memory.
Further on was the Chapel of St. Wenceslas. Compared to the silver tomb, this chapel glowed with gold, from the frescoes to the spires, all gilded, of great artistic value.
To the south of the cathedral is the Waldstein Palace, now the office and residence of the Czech president.
To its east is the Old Royal Palace, once the residence of Bohemian kings. Different monarchs renovated various parts. The palace is roughly divided into three floors. The entrance leads into the high Vladislav Hall, the centerpiece of the palace.
Upstairs, the New Land Hall contains many early books and paintings; downstairs are the Gothic Charles IV Palace and a Romanesque hall. Most rooms were damaged in the great fire of 1541, so parts are reconstructed ruins.
Further east, we began visiting the Prague Castle Story exhibition, which tells the history of Prague Castle and displays related artifacts.
Behind St. Vitus Cathedral, the red church with twin towers is St. George's Basilica. It is the best-preserved Romanesque building in the Czech Republic. Completed in 920, it was expanded multiple times,
the last time in the late 19th and early 20th century. Its foundations and two spires survive from the 10th century.
Next door, the Convent of St. George was the first convent in Bohemia, demolished in the 18th century to make way for barracks.
It now houses the National Gallery, with Czech art from the 14th to 17th centuries, including Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque paintings.
Continuing east along the street, we reached Rosenberg Palace (Rožmberský palác), the only private building in the castle. It now houses the Lobkowicz Collections, the largest and oldest private art collection in the Czech Republic.
Exhibits include world-famous paintings, musical instruments, and manuscripts of 17th-19th century composers, such as Beethoven and Mozart.
Inside, a beautiful concert hall offers classical concerts to the public, and there are commercial galleries and a café. After touring the interior, we went downstairs to the café and enjoyed lunch in the courtyard.
In the afternoon, we continued touring the castle. Golden Lane is a commercial street selling handicrafts, narrow but lively. During the Roman Empire in the 16th century, many alchemists (metallurgists) lived here, so the cobblestone street was called Golden Lane.
The lane is tiny, with small, colorful buildings, like the dwellings of elves in fairy tales. Some have become miniature museums showing the daily life of servants and craftsmen, while others are unique shops selling expensive souvenirs.
No. 22 Golden Lane, a light blue house, was Kafka's residence over a hundred years ago, now a small bookstore. A small doorway between 23 and 24 leads to a passage along the castle's defensive wall, now a medieval weapons and armor exhibition, with many loopholes in the outer wall. Inside this small courtyard, there are a few ancient cannons and a large crossbow, and a basement that was an alchemist's workshop.
At the end of Golden Lane stands Daliborka Tower, once a prison. Now it displays instruments of torture and weapons. Next to Daliborka is a large observation deck with a panoramic view of the whole city.
After the visit, we descended from the castle's east gate, enjoying the beautiful scenery of the Vltava River and Prague's Old Town.
Not far downhill, there was a metro station. We wanted to experience Prague's metro, so we took the green Line A back to Wenceslas Square.
The metro station was deep, with fast escalators and clear signage. We bought tickets and validated them upon entry. Sure enough, upon exit, staff checked our tickets.
For dinner, we went to a restaurant called Kantýna on the street where our hotel was located. This restaurant was very busy. At the entrance, you had to get a card similar to those used in dim sum restaurants.
To the left, there was a counter with raw meat; you told the chef what you wanted, and they weighed and prepared it, giving you a numbered tall bone to place on your table; the cooked food would be brought to you later.
Further inside, in the middle, there was a long high table like a bar counter, with tall round stools on either side. On the left, a counter displayed various cooked dishes served on wooden trays for self-service. On the right were fresh draft beers, both light and dark.
Customers pointed at what they wanted, staff marked the card, and then we collected food and beer. The food was good,
and the restaurant was so interesting that we dined there for the next two evenings.
Day 8: Český Krumlov
We booked a one-day tour of Český Krumlov through Ctrip. After breakfast, we waited at the hotel at the agreed time. A small car soon arrived to pick us up. The weather was sunny. The car took us to a parking lot near the train station, where we transferred to a large coach.
Český Krumlov is located in the Bohemia region of southern Czech Republic, on the upper reaches of the Vltava River, about 170 km from Prague Main Station. It is one of the most beautiful small towns in the world.
The town prospered in the 13th century because it lay on an important trade route. Most buildings were built between the 14th and 17th centuries, mainly in Gothic and Baroque styles.
The entire town is embraced by the wide, meandering Vltava River, which forms a horseshoe shape. A majestic castle stands on the riverbank, showcasing Central European charm. From a height, the medieval castle-centered town is fully visible, its beauty impressive.
After about three hours, we arrived at the parking lot in the castle gardens, which are Baroque style. In the center of the garden was a waterfall fountain. The garden was built during the Eggenberg family era and renovated in the 20th century according to the original design.
From a side gate in the garden, a path led up to Český Krumlov Castle.
Our guide led us up the path to the castle, the second largest castle complex in Bohemia after Prague Castle. It was founded in the 13th century and gradually expanded, creating a large complex blending various architectural styles from different periods.
The oldest part of this east-west castle is called Hrádek, which can be seen after passing through the Red Gate into the first courtyard, with a tower building. The castle has five courtyards, with a bridge between the fourth and fifth.
The main parts of the tour include the castle, the painted tower, and the museum.
In the Middle Ages, the castle was the residence of the lords of Krumlov.
The painted tower, besides offering a climb, is itself very artistic and worth admiring.
The castle preserves the Bohemian royal crown, a Baroque theater, and some original sets and props, and houses over 4,000 paintings from the 16th to 18th centuries by Italian, German, Dutch, and other artists.
After the guide gave us detailed explanations in the courtyard, we were free to visit the museum and climb the painted tower.
The museum interior was lavishly decorated, with rooms displaying ceramics, musical instruments, walls hung with victory flags and family crests.
Climbing the painted tower, we enjoyed the view of the river embracing the town below. The houses along the riverbanks all had orange roofs, their curves stretching lightly, arranged in a pleasing disorder, setting off the towering church in the center against the blue sky and white clouds—a breathtaking sight.
After visiting the castle, the guide led us down into the town.
From the banks of the Vltava, looking up at the castle and painted tower, we felt a sense of beauty.
Then the guide took us to a restaurant called U Dvou Maryí, which had a very small doorway.
Once inside the courtyard, the space opened up. Tables and chairs were placed by the river, and it was very pleasant to enjoy lunch while admiring the river view.
After lunch, the guide told us the meeting time and place, and we had free time.
We walked through the old streets and first came to St. Vitus Church, standing on the Vltava River, its spire soaring into the sky. It was built in the late Gothic period (1407-1438) and later renovated and fused with Baroque style. It is the spiritual center of the locals and the origin of the city's development.
Inside, there are 15th-century frescoes, stone pillars, a sanctuary, and a delicate dome.
On the second floor, there is a large Baroque pipe organ made in 1716.
We rested on the church benches for a long time before leaving. We arrived at the town's central square, Svornosti Square,
which connects to all parts of the town.
On the west side of the square is the Town Hall, a clean, imposing white three-story building with the Czech national emblem, town coat of arms, and the crests of former ruling families on its walls. Around it were many souvenir shops, cafes, and bars.
The town hall originally used 14th-century Gothic architecture, and in 1597, a neighboring structure was added, making the building more spacious and grand. It was once the residence of wealthy families, now housing the town hall, police station, and newspaper distributor.
On the east side of the square stood a plague column. At its base was a hexagonal fountain surrounding the column. Above the base was a group of human statues: in the lower row were St. Wenceslas, St. Vitus, St. John the Evangelist, etc.; in the upper row were St. Jude Thaddeus, St. Francis, St. Sebastian, etc.
In the Town Hall's cellar was a torture museum, dimly lit and eerie. It displayed ancient instruments of torture and photographs, with many simulated scenes, realistic wax figures, and surround-sound effects, making it seem as if the torture processes were happening before your eyes—thrilling and terrifying!
The town had many churches and museums, but we didn't intend to visit all of them. It was already pleasant to wander through the small streets.
Watching tourists kayaking on the river, we felt tempted but feared getting our clothes wet, so we just watched.
It was almost time to gather. We went to the small wooden bridge over the river, a necessary passage to the castle gardens, with a sense of history. The view from the bridge was unique. We bid farewell to the painted tower and the castle, and said goodbye to the town!
By the time we returned to Prague, the sun had set. We went directly to the restaurant we had eaten at the previous evening for dinner and then returned to the hotel.
Day 9: Jewish Quarter (Josefov)
Sunny with some clouds. After breakfast, we took a taxi to the Jewish Quarter, also called Josefov after Emperor Joseph II. Here lies the unique Old Jewish Cemetery, with thousands of tombstones in Renaissance and Baroque styles. The famous writer Franz Kafka had his home and birthplace here. The quarter has many attractions: Pinkas Synagogue, Klausen Synagogue, Maisel Synagogue, Old-New Synagogue, Spanish Synagogue, and the Jewish Town Hall. The Jewish quarter has existed since the 11th century, long considered a slum with poor public facilities and sanitation. In 1890, the Prague government ordered the renovation of the Jewish Quarter. At that time, Art Nouveau was popular, so many new, simple-style buildings emerged, with mostly simple, Cubist-style statues of figures.
We got off near the Spanish Synagogue. It is named for its Spanish Moorish architectural style. It is the youngest and largest synagogue in Prague, a blend of Art Nouveau and Moorish style. Its exterior was distinctive but not particularly eye-catching, but its interior was said to have unique Vienna Art Nouveau decorative paintings, unparalleled! It is now also used as a concert hall, unfortunately closed for renovation.
Not far away, on the street, there was a bronze statue of a person riding on the neck of a headless, handless giant. This figure represents the famous writer Franz Kafka.
Continuing, we turned right at the luxury goods street and saw the Old-New Synagogue. Visiting the synagogues required buying a ticket; we bought a combined ticket for several synagogues. The Old-New Synagogue is the most representative Jewish building in the area. This Gothic church was built in the 13th century, the oldest surviving synagogue in Europe. It has a rectangular structure, a saddle-shaped roof, a Gothic gable on the front, thick walls supported by buttresses, and a distinctive crenellated upper wall with loopholes.
Its main hall is the only surviving medieval one. The three sides of the main hall are surrounded by low annexes for the vestibule and women's section, with only small slit openings in the wall connecting the women's section to the main hall, allowing women to hear the religious activities through the slits.
In the vestibule, there are two Baroque-style donation boxes. The floor of the main hall is lower than the surrounding floor. In the center, there is a raised pulpit with iron railings.
Above the main hall hung some old brass branched chandeliers, and above them hung a flag embroidered with a Star of David.
Behind the Old-New Synagogue is the Jewish Town Hall, built in 1586 in Renaissance style, with a Rococo facade added in the 18th century. It was the main meeting place of the local Jewish community. On the rooftop tower, there are two clocks: one with Roman numerals and the other with Hebrew numerals, running counterclockwise (Hebrew is read from right to left). At the top of the tower is the Star of David.
Next, we visited the Pinkas Synagogue, which is also the entrance to the Old Jewish Cemetery. The walls inside are densely inscribed with the names, serial numbers, and affiliations of Jews who died in World War II.
77,297 victims are recorded here. Every one of them rests here for posterity to mourn.
On the second floor, there is a collection of children's drawings made during their internment in the Terezín concentration camp.
Entering the Old Jewish Cemetery, tombstones stand densely in a small space. It was used from the early 15th century until 1787.
The exact number of graves and buried people is unknown because there are multiple layers. About 12,000 tombstones have been discovered; an estimated up to 100,000 people may be buried here.
At the cemetery exit, on the left, is a three-story small chapel over 400 years old, once a funeral hall. It has survived many wars and is now a museum preserving many excellent Jewish cultural relics and precious artworks.
On the right of the exit is the Klausen Synagogue, built 1689-1694 in Baroque style. The church is simple and dignified, with very beautiful interior frescoes. In the center is the reading desk, in the middle are seats,
and around and on the second floor are cabinets displaying Jewish items, showing Jewish customs and traditions.
At noon, we had lunch at a restaurant called V Kolkovně near the luxury goods street. There were many people, mostly tourists.
In the afternoon, we continued our visit. Not far to the south, a street called Maiselova has the Maisel Synagogue, built 1590-1592, funded by the then Jewish mayor Mordecai (Mordechai) Maisel as a family synagogue. Initially Renaissance, it was rebuilt in Baroque style after the fire of 1689, and reconstructed in Gothic style in the 19th century.
After completing the Jewish Quarter tour, we continued south, walking again to the Old Town Square, where ornate horse-drawn carriages and colorful vintage cars were parked, waiting for tourists.
We went to the nearby Church of St. Nicholas, which shares its name with the one in Lesser Town Square. It belongs to the Hussite Church and is one of the oldest and most beautiful Baroque churches in the Old Town.
Originally built in the 13th century, it was not changed to Baroque until the 18th century. Its exterior is very striking: white building with a bronze roof.
Inside, we discovered clever use of natural light. The walls and ceilings were painted with frescoes about St. Nicholas, St. Benedict, and Old Testament stories,
along with many gilded carvings and decorations. This church was also where Mozart practiced the piano, so it frequently holds concerts.
We rested under the shade of a tree on one side of the square, eating ice cream and watching chefs grilling huge beef on food stalls.
Nearby, some tourists were happily feeding pigeons... until sunset. We went to the Town Hall again for a while, said goodbye to the Astronomical Clock,
and then strolled toward the Powder Tower. We had dinner at the same Kantýna restaurant as the previous evening before returning to the hotel, satisfied. These days left a deep impression on me for the taste of Prague beer, but the food was not particularly memorable.
Day 10: Prague - Vienna
After breakfast, we checked out, pulled our suitcases to the station waiting hall, waited a while, and when the platform information appeared, went to the platform. On the display screen, we found our carriage location and stood at the corresponding spot.
Soon the train arrived. Since we had reserved seats, storing luggage was smooth, and the seats were relatively independent and spacious. Many passengers without reserved seats were searching for empty seats; some would sit and then move when the seat owner arrived. Fortunately, there weren't too many people.
About four hours later, the train arrived at Vienna Central Station (Wien Hauptbahnhof). Our reserved hotel, Star Inn Hotel, was right across the street from the station's south exit. We would stay here for five days.
Vienna, the capital of Austria, is world-famous as the City of Music. It is surrounded by the famous Vienna Woods, with deep valleys and open plains to the south, and the Danube River flowing through the city. Forests, green spaces, swamps, and vineyard-covered hillsides are indispensable assets of the city. Vienna has numerous palaces, mansions, and museums, where glorious traditions and modern life are closely connected.
After checking in and resting in the room, we had dinner at a nearby restaurant called Goldener Löwe. The beer was okay but not as good as in Prague, and the food was similar to Prague's, nothing special.
(To be continued in Part 2)
