A Place You Can't Help But Fall in Love With – Prague
After living in Germany for a while, I decided to visit Prague, mainly because the Czech Republic borders Germany, though I knew very little about the country. I had heard the name Prague before, like Jolin Tsai's song "Prague Square" and Xu Jinglei's film "There Is a Place Only We Know," which gave me the impression that Prague was a rather literary and artistic place. In my mind, Western Europe was developed and civilized, while Eastern Europe was backward and unsafe, so my travel destinations were mostly limited to Western Europe. The Czech Republic is in Central Europe, and I thought it was worth a visit, so I booked a week's accommodation.
Then I began to truly understand this country and city. The Czech Republic is located in the center of Europe. Though not large, it is considered a developed country, ranking around 25th in the world. It lies in central continental Europe, bordering Germany, Poland, Slovakia, and Austria. Its land area is much smaller than major countries like the UK, France, and Germany, but larger than the Netherlands and Switzerland. It is a member of the European Union, but the language is Czech, and it still uses its own currency (the Czech koruna).
The history of the Czech Republic is rich. In ancient times it was the Kingdom of Bohemia, served as the capital of the Holy Roman Empire, was the center of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in modern times, was occupied by Nazi Germany during World War II, and later occupied by the Soviet Union after the war. It followed the socialist path and later transitioned to today's capitalism. Therefore, Czech culture is very diverse.
One obvious aspect is the diversity of architectural styles. The capital, Prague, is the first city in the world to be designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site as an entire city, known as a museum of architectural art. You can see all architectural styles from the 11th to the 21st centuries, including Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Neoclassical, Neo-historicism, and more. It seems that Prague suffered no severe human damage during historical wars, so these ancient buildings are well preserved. Although wars didn't destroy them, centuries of weather, floods, and other natural disasters could have ruined these monuments. The preservation of historical sites depends mainly on people's awareness. It is precisely because the Czech people and government are fully aware that history and culture are precious assets that they meticulously protect and maintain them. In the city center, there are over 2,000 nationally protected historical sites, which are continuously maintained and restored, keeping them authentic, exquisite, and beautiful. A straightforward experience is that in central Prague, you don't need to plan a route to take photos; just wander around, and every road, every bridge, and every building offers a great view. The most famous is the Charles Bridge, built in the 14th century, with 30 unique sculptures on both sides, each depicting a religious story, earning it the nickname "open-air Baroque sculpture museum." However, what tourists see now are replicas; the originals are in museums.
Beyond architecture, the city's art also highlights its history and culture. Prague is one of Europe's cultural hubs. It has about 80 museums of all sizes and types, including the grand National Museum, the Jewish Museum (related to history), the Museum of Communism, museums of science and technology, literature and art, biographical museums, and smaller ones like the Apple Museum, Sex Machine Museum, and Coffee Museum. Prague also has about 20 art galleries. Music is another hallmark of Prague. Year-round, concerts are held daily in concert halls of all sizes, from large venues to small ones in churches. Some are formal and require dress suits, while others have no dress code. You often see people carrying musical instruments on the streets, and performances by street artists on bridges and roadsides. Musicians play and sing outside restaurants and bars, and the air is filled with an artistic atmosphere. One weekend afternoon, right below our apartment on a regular street, a small musical was performed by a few people. In the evening, a simple stage was set up in front of a small bar, turning into a mini concert that attracted many passersby.
Prague's history and culture are long, rich, and charming, shining not only in magnificent halls but also flowing through the streets and alleys among ordinary people.
When traveling, my primary consideration is scenery and climate. No matter how good Nordic countries or Canada are, I'm not tempted because I can't stand the cold. The UK is great in summer, but winter has too many cloudy and rainy days, which is a drawback. That's why Brits love to vacation in Spain; the warm, sunny coast is indeed attractive. The Czech Republic has a temperate continental climate with four distinct seasons. We arrived in mid-August, and it was a bit hot then, but most homes don't have air conditioning, just a fan. The heat probably doesn't last long, and temperatures aren't too high. Germany is similar. In winter, it drops below freezing, usually around -5°C at the lowest, often hovering around 0°C. This January there were several heavy snowfalls, but often mixed with rain, so it didn't accumulate. News said the last January snowfall like that was ten years ago. Then in February, a once-in-a-decade heavy snow and cold wave hit, with nighttime lows of -19°C, which gave us plenty of fun playing in the snow and taking photos. November-December is the worst weather; cold is acceptable, but rare sunny days are really off-putting.
Speaking of scenery, Prague is incredibly beautiful. If you want to visit a fairy tale world, come to Prague. Strolling through its streets and alleys, sometimes you feel reality, sometimes fantasy. There are hills, the Vltava River flowing through the entire city, Gothic spires everywhere—earning it the name "City of a Thousand Spires"—Baroque splendor, and most buildings are colorful with delicate carvings and decorations. Buildings along a street are almost seamlessly connected, but their colors and styles differ, yet they don't clash.
Prague's most famous landmarks are Charles Bridge and Prague Square. Strictly speaking, they are not enclosed attractions; no tickets are needed, and they are in the very center. You'll pass them many times while exploring Prague, but they are truly beautiful: 360-degree views—the colors and structures are pleasing from afar, and close up you see intricate details with stories. Some people come specifically for sunrise photos; the sunset is also stunning, and indeed never tiresome. Street vendors sell alcoholic drinks every few steps: beer in summer, mulled wine in winter. On a leisurely afternoon, holding a drink, wandering aimlessly on ancient stone bridges and streets, watching the sunset, swans, and seagulls, and occasionally enjoying a street performance—no wonder people say it's easy to fall in love in Prague.
The Vltava River meanders through the entire city, another source of its beauty. The city planning is very reasonable, with hotel boats and restaurant boats on the water between the banks, and greenery and buildings arranged harmoniously on the shores. The river is home to many swans, ducks, and seagulls, and children love to feed them, adding liveliness. There is also an animal in the river called a "hai li" (beaver?), which looks like a round, fat, long-haired large mouse, can swim, loves vegetables, and is very popular with people. The wide riverbanks are pedestrian walkways, great for walking, running, or biking while enjoying the scenery. There are various boat services on the river; we tried paddle boats and motorboats. A four-person boat costs about 100 RMB per hour—quite reasonable, isn't it? We also saw seven or eight young women renting a larger boat for a bachelorette party, drifting on the river, barbecuing, drinking a little wine, laughing and chatting—what a wonderful vibe. In the wider parts of the river, there are several small islands. The one next to Charles Bridge is especially beautiful, like a paradise: not only is the island itself gorgeous, but the view from the island to the bridge and the banks is a 360-degree scenic perspective. We visited in summer, autumn, and after winter snow—each season is beautiful in its own way. I rate it Prague's best attraction, and it's free. Jay Chou, a perfectionist, shot his wedding photos and three music videos in Prague, which shows his love for this city, and many shots were taken on this very island.
A beautiful place often has mountains and water, and Prague is no exception. Several hilltops offer panoramic views of the city. If the island in the river represents the artistic Prague, then the highest point of Letná Park offers the postcard-perfect Prague. Letná Park is a low hill, accessible from many locations in the city center. It's mostly filled with young people exercising, playing hockey, skateboarding, and there's a large ice skating rink. Many people use rollerblades as transportation. At the highest point is a metronome landmark, which used to be a large Stalin statue. The view is absolutely unbeatable, overlooking the river, bridges, and colorful rooftops.
When traveling to or settling in a new place, you pay attention to local income and cost of living. Switzerland, for example, is picturesque but not suitable for long stays because it's too expensive! Spain is a vacation destination thanks to its sunshine, climate, and low prices. One major advantage of the Czech Republic is that its cost of living is significantly lower than neighboring Western European countries. Daily expenses are very low. One reason might be that they don't use the euro, but their own koruna. Cost of living is directly related to income; Czech wages are relatively low, about two-thirds of the UK's. So compared to the UK, labor is much cheaper—taxis, car repairs, agents, etc., are all much cheaper. However, imported electronics and brand-name clothing are not cheap. As a famous tourist city, Prague's housing prices are also high.
When living somewhere, besides the cost of living, the most important thing is food. As a tourist, the top local specialties in the Czech Republic are pork knuckle, trdelník, and beer. Pork knuckle in tourist restaurants costs about 100 RMB per piece, very large, crispy outside and tender inside, rich in flavor. Trdelník is a hollow cylindrical sweet bread, baked on charcoal right on the street; you can eat it plain or fill it with ice cream. Beer is extremely popular in the Czech Republic, with dozens of varieties, and it's cheap—less than 20 RMB for a large mug in a restaurant or bar. Local people eat quite differently from tourists. Overall, Czech cuisine is somewhere between Eastern and Western, even leaning more Eastern. For those of us who don't like Western food, it's very agreeable. Ingredients for Chinese cooking are abundant: large pieces of pork, spare ribs, mixed pork and beef mince, salmon, and later we found small shops selling lamb spine, lamb ribs, oxtail, chicken hearts, chicken gizzards. Vietnamese and Korean supermarkets supplement East and Southeast Asian ingredients: chicken feet, pig trotters, large crabs, oysters, frog legs, durian, papaya, noodles, kimchi, various instant noodles (Korean instant noodles have many flavors and are very tasty; the instant jajangmyeon is excellent). Of course, my cooking skills are also good, so our meals are quite rich: oxtail soup, grilled lamb chops, sushi, fried pork loin, boiled pork slices, oil-splashed fish, spicy mixed hot pot, crab roe rice, dumplings, wontons—these are fairly regular hearty dishes. Both boys have gained weight.
We ate at restaurants a few times early on, but later the pandemic became severe and they closed. However, Czech restaurants are great. The ones we visited were in the very center, in tourist areas, but they didn't seem to rip you off—good value for money. The first time, four of us ordered four dishes, costing about 400 RMB in total; we were so full but still had leftovers. From the second time onward, we ordered three dishes and couldn't finish them either. Czech businesses have a good habit of transparent pricing. Restaurant menus are very detailed, listing what's included in a dish and the weight in grams. Many restaurants post their menus on windows or on tables outside, very straightforward. Czech staples surprisingly include "steamed bread" and "dumplings," but they're not as good as the Chinese versions. Speaking of transparent pricing, it's not just restaurants; many service websites also clearly list prices and items. Compared to luring customers in and then negotiating prices, Czech people seem honest.
First impressions of Czechs: they seem serious, not very smiley, and rarely strike up conversations. This is a bit like Germans, so strangers on the street don't appear very friendly. But later, I found that Czechs are cold on the outside but warm inside. People you actually interact with are civilized and friendly.
After visiting more places, I increasingly understand that each place nurtures its own people. A region's history, level of development, and economic situation determine the character of its people. The US doesn't have a very long history, its society is diverse, its economy highly developed, and people are well-off, so Americans are very outgoing, free, optimistic, carefree, and bold. Britain's glorious history has instilled a deep-rooted pride in the British. Combined with their education, which respects the individual from a young age, although Britain is no longer the top power, it still has high public welfare and status in technology and culture, so the British remain confident. Germany, though advanced and developed today, still carries the heavy legacy of two world wars, so Germans are not as free and relaxed; they are more rigorous and restrained. The Chinese people's hard work and competitiveness also have their own origins. As a member of the EU and a moderately developed country, the Czech Republic borders the most developed countries to the west and is adjacent to less developed Eastern European brothers to the east. Its history is rich with diverse cultures; politically, it has undergone different systems. As a result, Czechs are humble, tolerant, and value freedom greatly, but they are not very confident, so they study and work harder. The so-called high tolerance may be due to its international nature and diverse population. On the streets, people wear and use all kinds of things, dress in many styles, and there is no particular trend or style, so observers are very accepting, and people don't need to worry about standing out. Locals speak Czech, but when you speak English with them, they try hard to speak English, so communication is not an issue. In short, the human atmosphere in Prague makes you feel romantic, relaxed, and comfortable.
There are few Chinese in Prague. Most Asian faces you see are Vietnamese, because Prague has a Vietnamese quarter, reportedly from the socialist era when many immigrated. Also some Koreans.
Our family—two kids and I—play soccer almost every afternoon. At the field, we have met about 50 fellow players. Through this group, I've truly felt the human atmosphere of Prague. It may be hard to believe, but for my two kids, the main reason they want to stay in Prague is the great soccer atmosphere.
The three of them love soccer. When we arrive in a new city, one important task in the first few days is to find a soccer field. In European countries, municipal facilities are well-equipped, and you can find public fields in every city. I clearly remember the first time we went to the field in Prague. Some people were playing. Our three stood nearby for only a short while before someone came over and invited us to join—we were flattered. In China or the UK, this usually doesn't happen. People usually play with friends, and if you want to join, you need to ask if you can. Also, few adults are willing to let kids play together. The first time was enjoyable, and we went again the next day. Different people were playing, including kids, and again someone warmly came to invite us to join. Over time, we realized this is the Czech culture of casual soccer: they are not at all exclusive; they welcome everyone, regardless of whether they know each other, adults, kids, or girls. On the field, people are friendly and play fairly. Adults are gentle with children. Through interactions with our soccer buddies, we felt even more that Czechs are cold on the outside but warm inside, all sincere and friendly. A small soccer field is also a miniature society that creates a certain atmosphere. The players on this field are good, serious, and civil, attracting more and more people. Gradually, more and more people speak English, and many foreigners come: Germans, French, Italians, Mexicans, Ukrainians, Slovaks, Kyrgyz... truly international. Especially during the pandemic, with few other options, daily soccer became a joyful time.
There are many angles from which to describe Prague's beauty, but for us, we directly "voted with our feet." We never thought we would stay so long in such a little-known small country, unwilling to leave. But indeed, Prague is beautiful and comfortable.
Looking back, I've rambled too much. I wonder if anyone besides my mom has the patience to read through all this ;)
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