Prague Memories
Though it was during the pandemic, no one knows what tomorrow holds, so if you can travel, just go—only there are some details to mind to lower the risk: Give each place more time, don't rush, as overexertion can weaken your immunity; walk as much as possible, avoid public transport; steer clear of peak hours at tourist spots; book an apartment to avoid hotels crowded with other travelers; dine outdoors at restaurants when possible; and if you're particular about cleanliness, bring disposable compressed towels and bed linens.
When we arrived in Prague armed with disinfecting wipes and several large packs of masks, the scene was like this:
Everywhere, glasses clinked, laughter and chatter filled the air, crowds of visitors weaved about—a scene of carefree merrymaking. So we simply relaxed and decided: when traveling, luck is what counts.
From eight or nine in the morning, the square gradually filled with people. Horses’ hooves clip-clopped on the smooth cobblestones, and group after group of tourists gathered beneath the Astronomical Clock right on the hour, heads tilted back, waiting for the mechanical figures to parade out and back. The open-air seats around the square slowly filled up, beer foam sparkling in the sunlight, and sausages from the stalls giving off an irresistible aroma. What you eat didn't matter anymore—people come here to feast on the atmosphere.
The air was also sweet with cinnamon—the scent of Prague’s special trdelník, a chimney cake. A little shop selling them popped up every few steps, and no matter how much you worried about your blood sugar, one of those shops would eventually break your resolve.
Young people zipped through the crowd on electric share-scooters like the wind, tourists held up phones to snap photos from every corner of the square, and there were girls searching for the Wishing Fountain… The bustle didn't fade until well past two in the morning. Only the ancient church and the solemn statue of Jan Hus stood silent, witnessing the joys and sorrows of generations as the seasons cycled by.
The apartment we rented was right next to St. Nicholas Church, with a full view of the square’s charm. The building itself was over a hundred years old; the current owner’s ancestor was the famous architect Jan Koula, who designed and built it for his wife.
The World of Kafka and Mucha
When you mention Prague, people think of The Unbearable Lightness of Being, think of Milan Kundera. But in this city you'll hardly find a trace of Kundera—this is almost entirely the world of Franz Kafka.
This Jewish writer born in Prague over a hundred years ago (1883–1924) is hailed as one of the most influential authors of the twentieth century. With obscure, absurd strokes, a jumpy rhythm, and language rich in allegory, he portrayed the loneliness, fear, struggle, and helplessness of ordinary people in the real world.
No visitor to Prague can ignore Kafka’s presence: his old residence in the Old Town, the short-term rental at 22 Golden Lane in the Castle District, his frequented Café Louvre in the New Town, and his grave in the Jewish Quarter. His busts and statues are scattered on street corners. Kafka Café, the Kafka Museum, Kafka Square… In some corner of the city, travelers inevitably run into him, feeling the life and emotions he once had. In his own way, he still 'lives' here, deeply influencing the people of this city.
As time shuttled, I met Kafka at Café Louvre, sitting in the seat he once occupied, and suddenly thought of the beetle he wrote about.
Another national treasure is the painter Mucha (1860–1939), whose style is unique and is hailed as 'a master of aesthetic art and the source of inspiration for today's manga.'
Throughout Prague’s galleries, churches, and exhibitions, his works are everywhere. Every gift shop in the tourist area certainly sells keychains, glasses cases, trays, fridge magnets, and cosmetic cases featuring his art.
Prague has a wide variety of museums, but many are tiny—it feels like having just a handful of odds and ends they call it a museum, so don’t set your hopes too high.
In my opinion, Prague itself is a perfect architectural museum, especially in the Old Town and Lesser Town, where Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Neoclassical, and more converge.
Walking through the Old Town, you’ll feel overwhelmed by a feast for the eyes. Buildings of different colors blend with paintings and sculptures; eaves, window cornices, and door lintels are adorned with flowers, animals, or vividly expressive figures in varied poses. Arcades, inner courtyards, passageways—it’s a delight to lose yourself in this beautiful labyrinth.
The Baroque St. Nicholas Church, completed in 1737. The Wishing Fountain many people search for is right on the corner next to it and Paris Street.
Charles Bridge, a stone bridge built in 1357, is adorned with 30 statues. To capture the bridge’s most beautiful view and the same shot as Jay Chou’s, you need to go before 5 or 6 a.m.—it’s simply too crowded later.
The Strahov Monastery houses a magnificent library. Even though it took a long uphill walk to reach the monastery and I could only peek from the doorway, I still found it well worth it. The exquisite and lavish interiors are breathtaking. I really wished I could pull out a medieval magic book and spend half a day here.
St. Vitus Cathedral, a Gothic church built in 1344 on the site of an earlier one, features stained-glass windows designed by Mucha, depicting the origins of Catholicism in Bohemia.
Main event: big plates of meat and big gulps of beer
The local cuisine is meat-heavy: pork knuckle, braised beef brisket, duck, rabbit... and the beer is super cheap. Friends who love both should hurry over.
Four friends who had been to Prague before all said, 'Oh, three days in Prague is enough.' But I spent six days there and still felt I hadn't fully enjoyed it.
Travelers, slow your hurried steps. Don't rush for that fleeting glance, only to then brush past and miss it. Go listen to a classical concert in the church of the Clementinum. Visit the Kafka Museum to see his manuscripts. Spend two hours losing yourself in the beautiful eyes and brows of Mucha's women. In the evening, take a boat ride to see the golden Prague, and at night, be sure to go to Old Town Square, immerse yourself in fine food, drink, and waves of joy. You will hear the city breathe, understand her stories—the thousand years of vicissitudes, sorrows, and joys.
