European Travels: From Český Krumlov to Prague (Part 1)
The journalist's Balkan tour's final country was the Czech Republic. Speaking of which, this was already the second visit to this country since the trip started. On the evening of June 28, 2018, the fifth day of the Balkan tour, the group had passed through Poland to Brno in the Czech Republic for an overnight rest; but since it was just a transit stop, there was no time to explore.
Český Krumlov (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
At 6 PM Czech time on July 11, 2018, after finishing the visit to Melk Abbey in Austria, the Balkan tour group drove 129 km and crossed smoothly into the Czech Republic, arriving in the town of Český Krumlov. Český Krumlov is a charming small town in South Bohemia, and one of the most beautiful cities in the world. The town was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1992.
The town castle (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
On the way to the attraction, Shen Chenwei gave a brief introduction about the Czech Republic. The Czech Republic is a landlocked country in Central Europe, covering an area of 78,866 square kilometers. Its predecessor was Czechoslovakia, which peacefully separated from Slovakia in 1993. Among Eastern European nations, the Czech Republic boasts a high Human Development Index and is a member of both the EU and NATO.
Impressive arch bridge (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Walking into the ancient town of Bohemian Český Krumlov, what first catches the eye is a multi-arched structure perched on a high slope—this is the castle's connecting bridge. Seeing this familiar sight instantly reminded the journalist of the Segovia aqueduct in Spain, visited not long before. Although not as grand as that elevated waterway, it has a similar charm.
Overlooking the ancient town (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
At the foot of this stone bridge, climbing the upward path to the viewpoint, a magnificent panorama of nature and human creation unfolds.
Town photo (Photo by Wang Jue)
The entire town is embraced by the horseshoe-shaped, wide, winding Vltava River, and across the valley lies the medieval city centered around the castle, stretching endlessly, breathtakingly beautiful.
Old town castle (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
At the viewpoint, Shen Chenwei recounted the town's history: the history of Český Krumlov began in the 13th century when the powerful Vítkovci family of South Bohemia built a castle here; by 1374, there were only 96 houses. In the 14th century, the Vítkovci family died out, and the Rosenberg family took over as rulers. In the 16th century, the town reached its zenith of prosperity. Then in the 18th century, the Schwarzenberg family took control, and these families left a profound impact.
View through the stone window (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
On the outskirts of Český Krumlov, you can see the somewhat gaudy castle tower, the tallest building in town and its most distinctive landmark—it is the second largest castle in the Czech Republic, after Prague Castle.
On the old town streets (Photo by Shen Chenwei)
The elements that make the town a UNESCO World Heritage site—cobblestone streets, flowing water, bridges, embankments—all form the essence of this ancient place. The massive castle bears witness to the glorious deeds of noble families.
Architecture on the arched bridge (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The castle is a masterpiece of Renaissance and Rococo art, with opulent interiors; the stuffed bear lying on the floor, the golden carriage in the exhibition room, the walls covered in victory flags and family crests—all tell endless tales of past times. The castle gardens are a perfect resting spot. Climbing the highest tower, you see the whole town below: the houses along the riverbanks all have orange tiled roofs, their curves gently stretching, elegantly arranged, with the church steeple standing tall among them.
Colorful houses (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
It's fair to say that Český Krumlov deserves its reputation as one of the most beautiful small towns in the world. In the 13th century, it gradually prospered due to its location on an important trade route. Most buildings date from the 14th to the 17th century, hence predominantly Gothic and Baroque in style.
Town photo (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Descending from the viewpoint into town, along cobblestone lanes, you first cross a small bridge. On the right stands St. Vitus Church, built in the 14th century and sharing the name with Prague's St. Vitus Cathedral; it is also a landmark of the town. On the left are riverbank restaurants and cafes, where the shimmering Vltava River flows quietly and endlessly beneath the bridge.
Church by the river (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
At that moment, the beautiful scene suddenly reminded the journalist of the famous symphonic poem "Vltava" from Bedřich Smetana's "Má vlast." In fact, the composer's piece really is connected to the Vltava River in Český Krumlov.
The Vltava River (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
In that work, with lyrical flutes and orchestral harmonies as a prelude, the composer paints a majestic and moving melody that depicts the river flowing past many Czech landmarks, including Český Krumlov, and finally into Prague, as two small streams merge into a calm, ordinary river. The trickle emerges from the forest, the stream flows through cold, whispering woods, joining into the Vltava, heading into the distance. It flows past forests echoing with hunting horns, across harvest fields.
Riverbank scenery (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The sounds of a cheerful village wedding reach its banks. Under the moonlight, water nymphs sing enchanting songs as they play on its waves. The Vltava rushes out of the St. John's Rapids, roaring and spraying foam along the banks. Near beautiful Prague, its bed widens, carrying its billowing waves past the ancient Vyšehrad... The beautiful melody graphically and vividly captures the Vltava's charm, becoming a classic handed down through the ages, evoking nostalgic feelings—truly a great contribution by Smetana.
Handicrafts in town (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Entering the town, the diverse little shop facades are full of character. Life in Český Krumlov is peaceful and leisurely; every household grows flowers, blooming and fading in quiet contentment.
Shop windows (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Here, you can easily touch, see, and even smell this beautiful old town filled with nostalgia. The stone streets, the meandering Vltava, the mottled walls, the laughter drifting from little pubs—all remind you of the richness of time, the length of the years.
String trio (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
At the town center is a bustling square with a distinctive fountain. Nearby, a few artists were performing a string trio by the fountain. Walking further into the lane, you see Český Krumlov Castle towering on the hill.
Town bridgehead (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The statue of Jesus on the bridge and the castle complex behind it. At the Shanghai Restaurant on one side of the square, the group had another Chinese dinner. After dinner, the tour concluded the visit to Český Krumlov and drove 11 km to the Adle Hotel in the town of Budweis for a pleasant overnight stay.
Town square (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
At 9 AM Czech time on July 12, 2018, the Balkan tour group began its last stretch. From the hotel in Budweis, they headed 150 km to the Czech capital, Prague, for sightseeing. First, they visited Prague Castle on the western bank, including the Old Royal Palace, St. Vitus Cathedral, St. George's Basilica, and Golden Lane; then they saw Charles Bridge; followed by Wenceslas Square (site of the "Prague Spring" events) and the National Museum; and finally the Old Town Square: the Astronomical Clock, the Jan Hus statue, the Church of Our Lady before Týn, and other famous Czech sights.
Prague scenery (Photo by Wang Jue)
As the capital, Prague is a city with a long history. Over a thousand years ago, it was already the political center of the Czech Kingdom. From the 13th century, when it became the first royal city of the Czech dynasty, it has over 700 years of history. From the 13th to the 15th century, it was an important economic, political, and cultural center in Central Europe. Nestled between hills and rivers, the city abounds with historical sites, with over 2,000 nationally protected monuments.
Prague street scene (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
It is no exaggeration to say that in every street and alley of the Old Town, you can find buildings of various styles dating from the 13th century onward, such as the famous St. Vitus Cathedral begun in 1344, the Charles Bridge over the Vltava (with its priceless statues, built in 1357), the Charles University (founded in 1348, the oldest university in Central Europe), the resplendent Prague Castle, and the historic National Theatre.
Castle hill (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The first stop, Prague Castle, is situated on a hill overlooking the Vltava River. It is the Czech fortress. In the 9th century, the Prince of Prague first built a castle on the hill above the Vltava, and from there he ruled his Czech people and lands—it remained the seat of Prague's royalty.
Vltava River scenery (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Over centuries and many expansions, it preserves many majestic buildings and historical relics, and today still serves as the residence of the Czech president. Prague Castle features a diversity of architectural styles, from ancient Romanesque foundations to post-modern wartime additions, each era leaving its mark.
Overlooking from the castle (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Inside the castle, Shen Chenwei explained: After its construction, Prague Castle was repeatedly renovated, decorated, and refined by domestic and foreign architects and artists, so it concentrates the artistic essence of various historical periods and is one of the most attractive tourist destinations in the Czech Republic. Once the palace of emperors and kings, today it is where the Czech president receives foreign heads of state and accepts ambassadors' credentials. From the castle, you can enjoy panoramic views of the entire city.
Castle courtyard (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The castle contains three courtyards, several old streets and lanes, galleries, gardens, and St. Vitus Cathedral, the largest Gothic church in the Czech Republic, begun in 1344. Its largest halls are the Spanish Hall and Vladislav Hall. The Spanish Hall is used for presidential awards ceremonies and state banquets; Vladislav Hall is the site of presidential inaugurations and major political events. In 1992, Prague Castle was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Castle architecture corner (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The Czech royal residence consists of St. Vitus Cathedral and various palaces. The castle was founded in the 7th century, originally as the Bohemian royal palace. Seen from afar, the cream-colored buildings, the iron-gray church, the light green bell tower, the white spires— Prague Castle has housed all presidential offices, hence also called the Presidential Palace. It contains buildings in Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque, Renaissance, and other historical styles.
Presidential Palace (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Covering 45 hectares, Prague Castle encompasses one palace, three churches, and a monastery, spread over three courtyards. For centuries, it has been the political heart of Prague and still houses the president and state offices.
Photo in front of Presidential Palace (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
For over 60 years, presidential offices have been located within the castle, so it is also known as the "Presidential Palace." The main attractions within the castle include the Old Royal Palace, St. Vitus Cathedral, St. George's Basilica, Powder Tower, Golden Lane, and the Prague Castle Gallery.
Old Royal Palace courtyard (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
First, the Old Royal Palace, once the residence of Bohemian kings, was renovated by different rulers. The building is roughly divided into three floors. The entrance leads to the high-ceilinged Vladislav Hall, the centerpiece of the palace; the upper New Land Hall displays many early scribes' images; the lower floor houses the Gothic palace of Charles IV and a Romanesque palace hall. Most rooms were damaged in the great fire of 1541, so parts are later reconstructions.
Church corner (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Leaving the Old Palace, you come to St. Vitus Cathedral, the most important landmark of Prague Castle. Besides its rich architectural features, it is where royal coronations took place and where royals are buried.
Stained glass (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The cathedral underwent three expansions: the Rotunda of St. Wenceslas from 929, enlarged to a basilica in 1060, and in 1344 Charles IV ordered its construction, but it wasn't completed until 1929. Key highlights include the 20th-century stained glass windows, the Tomb of St. John of Nepomuk, and the St. Wenceslas Chapel.
Inside the cathedral (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
At the entrance, the colorful stained glass on the left is the work of the famous Czech painter Mucha, adding a modern touch to this thousand-year-old church. Behind the altar, the ornate tomb of St. John of Nepomuk, made of pure silver and lavishly decorated, commemorates the anti-Reformation figure of 1736, who is buried in the cathedral with this magnificent silver memorial. (Photos and text: Feng Ganyong)
