European Journey: From Český Krumlov to Prague (Part 2)

Accompanying the Balkan tour group, after finishing our visit to St. Vitus Cathedral, we moved on to St. Wenceslas Chapel. Compared to the earlier silver tomb of St. John of Nepomuk, St. Wenceslas Chapel shone with dazzling splendor. From the murals to the spire of the sacrament house, everything was adorned with gold accents, making it a work of great artistic value. Externally, the Gothic St. Vitus Cathedral displayed many classic architectural features, such as the ornate archways and flying buttresses around its grand entrance.

St. George's Church (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Behind St. Vitus Cathedral stands the red twin-towered St. George's Church, the best-preserved Romanesque building in the Czech Republic. Completed in 920, it was expanded several times, with the last major reconstruction taking place at the turn of the 20th century. The church's foundation and two towers have survived since the 10th century. Adjacent is St. George's Convent, Bohemia's first convent. In the 18th century, it was demolished and turned into barracks, but now it houses the National Gallery, showcasing Czech art from the 14th to 17th centuries, including Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque paintings.

Dome Paintings (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The newly renovated Prague Castle Picture Gallery, which requires a separate ticket, houses a vast collection of classical paintings. The earliest works date from the 16th century, with a focus on 16th- to 18th-century art from Italian, German, Dutch, and other European artists, numbering over 4,000 pieces. The gallery is built on the site of the former castle stables. During its conversion, the oldest church in Prague Castle—the Church of the Virgin Mary—was discovered, and parts of its remains are now displayed within the gallery.

Museum (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The Powder Tower at Prague Castle, like the one in Old Town Square, originally served as a defensive fortress and later as a gunpowder store. In the 16th century, the king allowed alchemists to live here, experimenting with turning lead into gold. In the 18th century, it became a treasury for the sacred vessels of St. Vitus Cathedral. Today, it is a museum displaying medieval art, astronomy, and alchemy artifacts.

Golden Lane (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Tucked between St. George's Church and the Toy Museum is the Golden Lane, a narrow alley lined with tiny, colorful houses that look straight out of a fairy tale. It's Prague's most picturesque street. Originally a place where servants and craftsmen lived, it later became home to alchemists who worked for the king, hence the name.

Shop Windows in the Lane (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

However, in the 19th century, the lane turned into a slum. In the mid-20th century, it was redeveloped, and the former dwellings were turned into small shops. Today, each shop offers different souvenirs and handicrafts: No.16 sells wooden toys, No.20 sells tin soldiers of Prague, No.21 features hand-painted clothing, and No.19 is a charming little house with a lovely garden, the most photogenic of all.

Photo at No.22 (Photo: Gu Jianping)

Every visitor to the Prague Castle district will inevitably stroll down this lane, which is less than 100 meters long. Compared to the majestic churches and palaces nearby, these houses seem humble and lowly. In 1883, at No.22 of this tiny street, Franz Kafka was born into a family dominated by a 'tyrannical' father.

Golden Lane No.19 (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Kafka's literary career might never have reached such heights without the influence—and 'help'—of his father. As a child, Kafka often stood on the high platform near the castle, gazing out over Prague's red rooftops, as if to escape the claustrophobic confines of No.22 Golden Lane, his father's strictness, and his authoritarian rule, to find a small world of his own.

One-Foot Lane (Photo: Wang Jue)

After finishing our tour of Prague Castle, we made our way through the streets to the famous Charles Bridge. Along the way, we passed a very narrow alley called One-Foot Lane; despite its narrowness, it even had a pedestrian traffic light—quite amusing. Charles Bridge is an ancient structure connecting the castle area with the Old Town, spanning the rushing Vltava River. The bridge was crowded with tourists and vendors, creating a lively atmosphere. At each end stand tall bridge towers that once served as crucial defensive structures. From the top of one of these towers, the entire city of Prague unfolds before you.

Under Charles Bridge (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Charles Bridge was begun in 1357 and completed in 1400, spanning the Vltava River. It was built on the orders of King Charles IV, hence its name, and is one of the largest surviving ancient bridges in the Czech Republic. It connects Prague's Old Town, Lesser Town, and Prague Castle. This narrow, winding street is packed with the highlights of the Old Town and was once part of the coronation route.

Photo on the Bridge (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Modeled after the Angel Bridge in Rome, Charles Bridge is a perfect blend of Gothic bridge-building techniques and Baroque sculptural art. At one end, a full-length statue of Charles IV stands, flanked by Gothic gateways with Baroque reliefs. Along the stone balustrades, there are 30 statues of Catholic saints and patron deities, ranging from goddesses and warriors to figures combining human and animal forms. With its long history and unique architecture, Charles Bridge is one of the most famous landmarks in the Czech Republic.

Bridge Tower (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

After crossing Charles Bridge, we entered the streets of Prague's city center, passing through Old Town Square and arriving at Wenceslas Square in the bustling commercial district of the New Town. This square has a 600-year history. It faces the National Museum, and nearby stand the former royal churches, such as St. Nicholas Church, a prime example of Prague Baroque religious architecture built in the 17th and 18th centuries, and the St. Anna Church. These are mostly Baroque-style palatial buildings. The area is characterized by narrow, winding streets and is also the site of the famous 'Prague Spring' events.

Children on the Square (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Wenceslas Square is Prague's most important and busiest trade and social hub, active day and night. Originally one of three markets planned by Charles IV when he founded the New Town to stimulate commerce, over time it evolved into a forum for public discontent. The square has witnessed many protests against the government and events defending national independence and against invasions, giving it a unique historical significance.

City Street Scene (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The last stop in Prague was its most famous square, Old Town Square. This central square has existed for over 900 years and has long been a gathering place. At its center is the statue of Jan Hus. The Old Town Hall, a Gothic building dating from 1338, stands on the square. To the south is the historic Karolinum, the oldest building of Charles University, and nearby is the famous Bethlehem Chapel. The Powder Tower is the only surviving gate of the original 13 city gates.

Jan Hus Statue (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The name Prague comes from German, while locals call it 'Praha,' meaning 'threshold.' This is said to refer to a rocky rapid in the Vltava River that resembles a threshold. According to legend, when the city was being founded, an architect came to survey the area and met an old man carefully sawing a wooden threshold. Deeply moved by his meticulous work, the architect named the city Prague after the threshold.

Old Town Týn Church (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Some quiet, secluded lanes in the Old Town still retain their medieval character, with cobblestone streets, old-fashioned gas lamps, and houses adorned with religious murals. With modern traffic, many of these streets have become too narrow, allowing only one-way car and tram traffic.

Photo at Old Town Square (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The most distinctive ancient structure on the square is the astronomical clock on the tower of the Old Town Hall, installed in 1410. Although the tower's outer plaster has partly peeled away with age, the clock itself is world-famous for its exquisite craftsmanship.

Photo in Old Town Lane (Photo: Wang Jue)

Every visitor to Prague makes a point of seeing this ancient clock tower in Old Town Square, and locals passing by often pause to check their watches against it.

Sightseeing Carriages (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

On the hour, the clock's little windows open, bells ring, and twelve figurines of saints appear one by one, bowing to the crowd. This intricate and fascinating clock was built in the mid-15th century by a locksmith using just a hammer, pliers, and file. It still keeps accurate time and remains a treasured sight.

Tourists Waiting for the Hour (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Shen Chenwei remarked that in the evening, Old Town Square is bustling. Grab a coffee at a street café, sit in a corner of the square, and watch the sunset. On the hour, the unique astronomical clock puts on a show: wooden figures of the Twelve Apostles appear in rotation, while a figure of Death below pulls a bell. The whole performance ends with a rooster's crow.

Performance on the Square (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

At night, Prague becomes a city like an elf's realm. Old-fashioned carriages carrying curious tourists clop through the square, their horses' hooves echoing on the cobblestones. Castle towers flicker with lights, as if a princess from a fairy tale might appear at any moment. The lively music and clinking glasses from taverns create a warm and intimate atmosphere.

Photo by the Vltava River (Photo: Wang Jue)

In moments like these, you feel transported to medieval Europe or a fairy-tale world. Visitors instinctively forget about time, as if falling into a time tunnel and getting lost in Prague's Old Town Square.

Prague Waterside Scenery (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

On July 13, 2018, at 9 a.m. Czech time, the Balkan tour group finally concluded its 21-day journey. They took a final group photo at the Michael Hotel in Prague before departing for Václav Havel Airport Prague. They boarded Hainan Airlines flight HU7938 at 14:45 Czech time for the journey back to China.

Final Group Photo (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Václav Havel Airport Prague is the international airport of the Czech capital and the country's largest. Originally named Prague Ruzyně International Airport, it was renamed in 2012 to honor Nobel Peace Prize laureate and former President Václav Havel. Located 14 kilometers from the city center, it is the main civilian airport and the hub of Czech Airlines. Opened on April 5, 1937, it handles about 12 million passengers annually and is one of the busiest airports in the EU, having been named the best airport in Central and Eastern Europe in 2005 and 2007.

Prague Airport (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

In the airport departure lounge, I briefly reflected on the entire trip. The Balkan tour group set off from Beijing Capital International Airport's Terminal 2 at 13:00 Beijing time on June 24, 2018, aboard Hainan Airlines flight HU7937. We first arrived in Berlin, Germany, at 16:00 local time on June 24. From there, we traveled through 13 countries: Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Serbia, Macedonia, Albania, Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Austria, Slovenia, and the Czech Republic—a full 21-day journey. By rough count, we visited 16 UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage sites, leaving countless unforgettable memories and making the trip immensely rewarding. (Text and photos: Feng Ganyong)