Central Europe Journey – Czech Republic (Prague, Český Krumlov) Independent Travel Guide

I started planning this Central Europe trip six months in advance. First, I had to see how many days my daughter could take off, and finally decided: depart on October 7, return on October 21. Enter through Prague, Czech Republic, and exit through Vienna, Austria (a somewhat rushed decision; the most time-saving would have been exiting through Budapest, Hungary).

My daughter was in charge of buying plane tickets; the earlier you buy, the better the price. We compared services of various airlines and finally chose Emirates, with a layover in Dubai.

I then began planning the itinerary. After reading many friends’ travel guides, our Central Europe trip went smoothly. Grateful! Three months in advance, I started booking accommodations and transportation tickets. Booking OBB (Austrian Railways) tickets early can save half the price.

Round-trip airfare: TWD 35,427 (approx. CNY 7,864). We already selected seats online; Emirates charges for seat selection.

Special notes:

1. Visa:

Czech Republic is a Schengen visa country. Visa-free entry to Schengen area, with a maximum stay of 90 days within any 180-day period.

2. Czech currency:

1 Czech Koruna (CZK) = 1.37 TWD = 0.30 RMB (fluctuates). Taiwan banks cannot exchange it; you need to enable overseas withdrawal function on your bank card. Bring some Euros; you can exchange Euros for Koruna locally, but the exchange rate is poor and a service fee (commission) is charged. Each bank charges different fees, about TWD 100. The best way is to withdraw from ATMs. Never exchange money with strangers on the street. Credit cards and Apple Pay are widely accepted in Prague – almost all shops, restaurants, and cafes.

3. Personal safety:

Prague is one of the most popular European cities for Asian tourists. Compared to Hungary and Austria, pickpockets are more common, so don’t carry too much cash and keep your belongings safe.

4. Tips and museums:

Prague has a tipping culture; remember to tip 10–15%. Don’t casually enter museums; some are very small with little to see.

5. Voltage and time difference:

Czech voltage is 220V–240V; plugs are the European round type. Summer time difference with Taiwan/China is 6 hours, winter is 7 hours, and in October about 6.5 hours. So Taiwan/China time – 6/7 = Czech time.

6. Internet:

If visiting more than one country, buy a pan-European SIM card for more stable signal.

7. Language:

Tourist restaurants, hotels, and attractions have signs in English and a few in Chinese. In Prague, Český Krumlov, and other tourist cities, many people speak English fluently.

8. Public transportation:

Prague’s metro is very simple, with only three lines. Attractions are scattered, but once you reach the vicinity of an attraction by metro, you can walk there. Trams are very convenient, going to places the metro doesn’t reach. They have electronic displays and announcements for the next stop, and newer trams have credit card payment machines that accept Apple Pay.

9. Accommodation:

Prague is large, with traditional stone roads. Choose accommodation close to a metro station. If you don’t want to be too far from the city center, you can stay near the Mustek or Náměstí Republiky metro stations in the Old Town, or near the main train station. Not recommended to stay in the Castle District or Lesser Town due to slopes, inconvenient transport, and safety concerns.

Czech Republic (Czech: Česká republika), commonly known as Czechia (Česko), is a republic in Central Europe. It is a landlocked country bordered by Poland to the north, Germany to the northwest, Austria to the south, and Slovakia to the southeast. Today’s Czech Republic mainly comprises the traditional provinces of Bohemia and Moravia from the Austro-Hungarian Empire, plus a small part of Silesia.

The Czech Republic is a unitary parliamentary republic, a developed democratic republic with an advanced, high-income market economy incorporating both socialist and liberal elements. It has a comprehensive social welfare system, universal healthcare, and free university education. The Czech Republic is a member of the UN, NATO, EU, OECD, OSCE, and the Council of Europe.

Prague (Czech: Praha; German: Prag) is the capital and largest city of the Czech Republic, the 14th largest city in the EU, located in the Central Bohemian Region on the Vltava River. It lies in the center of the European continent, historically important for transportation, closely connected with neighboring countries (especially geographically between Berlin, Germany and Vienna, Austria).

Prague is a famous tourist city with numerous buildings from various historical periods and styles: Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Neoclassical, Art Nouveau, Cubist, and ultra-modern. Baroque and Gothic architecture are particularly dominant. Prague’s buildings are noted for their varied and colorful rooflines (red tiles, yellow walls), earning nicknames like “City of a Thousand Spires” and “Golden City,” and is claimed as one of Europe’s most beautiful cities.

Taipei (TPE) “Taoyuan International Airport T2”

Dubai (DXB) “Dubai International Airport T3”

Czech Republic (PRG) “Václav Havel Airport Prague T1”

Departure. The crew of this Emirates flight comes from 18 countries, speaks 16 languages, and has Chinese in-flight announcements. The flight, including transfer time, took 18 hours. We had three meals on the plane. They looked decent in pictures, but the taste was not impressive.

After 8.5 hours of flight, we landed at Dubai International Airport at 4:10 AM Dubai time (October 8).

At 13:30 Prague time on October 8, we walked out of the arrivals hall at Václav Havel Airport Prague, but the pre-arranged driver holding a sign with our name was not there. We called the driver; he was a local who didn’t speak English, so communication was impossible. We wasted half an hour. Fortunately, the airport has an Uber service counter.

My daughter ordered a car to the hotel, while I looked for an ATM to withdraw some CZK cash. To the right of the exit, there was a row of about 5–6 ATMs, but none worked for some reason. Only one ATM was available. Before the trip, someone online said this ATM had a very poor exchange rate, and indeed it was much worse. No choice; we were in a hurry and needed cash for Uber.

We stayed in a serviced apartment in Prague’s Old Town, 100 meters from the Prague Astronomical Clock, 150 meters from Old Town Square, 600 meters from the Municipal House, 650 meters from the Powder Tower, and 600 meters from Charles Bridge.

Ericsson Palace – Malé náměstí 144/1, Prague 110 00

Today the sky over Prague was very blue. After checking in, we immediately went out and followed the streets to Old Town Square. Attractions in Prague’s old city are all around the square; just follow your line of sight and wander. Prague is a world-class tourist city, with visitors from all over the world everywhere.

Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí) – An ancient square in Prague’s Old Town, featuring a statue of Jan Hus, a religious reformer persecuted by the Roman Catholic Church for selling indulgences, leading to the Hussite Wars. Because it is Prague’s most famous square, it is often simply called Prague Square.

Old Town Hall / Prague Astronomical Clock (Pražský orloj) – A medieval astronomical clock mounted on the southern wall of the Old Town Hall. It is the oldest still-operating astronomical clock in the world, and the third oldest overall. It has three main parts: the astronomical dial representing the positions of the sun and moon in the sky, showing various astronomical data; “the Walk of the Apostles,” with figurines of the apostles and other moving sculptures on the hour; and a calendar dial below representing the months. The background of the astronomical dial shows the earth and sky, with four main moving elements: the zodiac ring, a rotating outer ring, a sun symbol, and a moon symbol. Every day at noon, the twelve apostles appear one by one from the clock, six turning left, six turning right. After a crowing sound, the windows close and the bell chimes.

The tower of the Old Town Hall offers panoramic views of the Old Town and the astronomical clock. To climb, enter through the side door next to the clock, follow signs upstairs to buy a ticket, then take the elevator or spiral staircase to the top. Opening hours: 11:00 AM – 7:00 PM. Ticket: CZK 300, elevator: CZK 100.

St. Nicholas Church (Kostel svatého Mikuláše) – A striking white Baroque church in the northwest part of the Old Town, dedicated to St. Nicholas, patron saint of sailors. Highlights include lavish interior decorations, the organ, and frescoes of St. Nicholas and St. Benedict.

House of the Minute (Dům U Minuty) – Located at No. 3 Old Town Square, next to the Old Town Hall. The writer Franz Kafka and his parents once lived here. Legend says it takes one minute to walk from this building to the Town Hall, hence its name. The sgraffito on the wall, created around 1615, depicts biblical and classical mythological stories. Although monochrome, the shading makes the figures vivid.

House of the Stone Virgin (Storchův dům) – A colorful building opposite the Astronomical Clock, built in the late 19th century in Neo-Renaissance style. Named after the statue of the Virgin Mary on the corner (the Virgin was regarded as a talisman against the Black Death in Bohemia). The wall painting depicts St. Wenceslas leading a religious army.

House of the Unicorn (Dům U Bílého Jednorožce) – Orange-red building where Kafka participated in philosophical discussions during his student days. Students debated works by Kant, Hegel, etc.

House of the Stone Lamb (Dům U Kamenného Beránka) – Blue building, classic Bohemian Renaissance townhouse. The ground floor retains a Gothic arched corridor, while upper floors feature Bohemian characteristics. Named for the relief of a shepherdess and a one-horned lamb above the main door. Now houses a Starbucks; the adjacent triangular space is Malé náměstí.

The House at the Two Golden Bears – Enter the alley opposite the House of the Minute and you’ll see the striking “Sex Machines Museum.” Behind it is the House at the Two Golden Bears, named after the two golden bears on the archway. This carved door is said to be the most beautiful Renaissance decoration in Prague.

Church of Our Lady before Týn (Kostel Matky Boží před Týnem) – A representative building of Prague’s Old Town, the main church of the area since the 14th century. The bell towers are 80 meters high with four small spires. In 1679, lightning caused a fire that severely damaged the vault, which was later rebuilt in a lower Baroque style. Renovations occurred in 1876–1895, and a long exterior restoration was done from 1973–1995, followed by interior work still ongoing. The two towers are of different sizes because one had insufficient funds during restoration, becoming a “shrunken” version. Its dark color earned it the nickname “Devil’s Church.”

After more than ten hours of flight without proper rest, we chose a nearby pizza place for dinner in the evening.

Today’s itinerary was relaxed. We walked from the hotel to the Powder Tower, passing by a Czech specialty dessert: chimney cake (Trdelník). The word comes from “trdlo” (wood). It is similar to the Hungarian chimney cake, but more expensive in Czech and with more fillings; Hungarian ones are usually plain.

Powder Tower (Prašná brána) – A Gothic tower gate in Prague’s Old Town, one of the city’s landmarks. Built in 1475, it was one of 13 city gates. Originally connecting to the royal palace via a small bridge, it was used as a gunpowder storage facility in the 17th century, hence its name. Designed by architect Matěj Rejsek, it imitates the design of Charles Bridge’s Old Town Bridge Tower by Peter Parler. It is the only surviving gate of the old city walls.

Unfortunately, the Powder Tower was under renovation, so we could only take a photo from a distance.

Municipal House (Obecní dům) – Next to the Powder Tower, a concert hall and landmark building in Prague, important in the architectural and political history of the Czech Republic. It stands on Republic Square between the Old Town and New Town. The main space inside is the Smetana Hall, named after composer Bedřich Smetana. On October 28, 1918, the Smetana Hall was where the independence of Czechoslovakia was declared.

Hybernia Theatre (Divadlo Hybernia) – Opposite the Municipal House, a modest 17th-century Baroque building hosting daily classical music concerts, operas, and musicals, mostly works by Mozart, Smetana, Dvořák, and Vivaldi.

Lunch was at Restaurant Mlejnice near the Old Town Square. Opening hours: 11:00 AM – 11:00 PM. Reservation available (website).

Charles Bridge (Karlův most) – A famous historic bridge spanning the Vltava River in Prague. Construction began in 1357 under King Charles IV and was completed in the early 15th century. Until 1841, it was the only bridge across the Vltava, connecting the Old Town with Prague Castle and the surrounding area, and making Prague an important trade route between Eastern and Western Europe. Initially called “Stone Bridge” or “Prague Bridge,” it was renamed “Charles Bridge” in 1870. It has three bridge towers, two on the Lesser Town side and one on the Old Town side. The Old Town Bridge Tower is considered one of the most impressive secular Gothic structures in the world. The bridge is lined with 30 statues, mostly Baroque, erected around 1700. However, the ones seen today are replicas; the originals are in the National Museum.

Havel’s Market (Havelské tržiště) – A famous open-air market in Prague, one of the three large markets. Though only 150 meters long with about 30 stalls selling fruit and souvenirs, it is the most convenient market in central Prague.

Today we were heading to Prague Castle, but unfortunately the weather was not cooperative.

We walked about five minutes from the hotel to the metro station, took Line A (green), direction Nemocnice Motol, got off after one stop at Malostranská station.

Exiting the metro station, we turned left, walked about 100 meters to a city park with a stairway path about 300 meters long leading to the entrance of Prague Castle.

Prague Castle (Pražský hrad) – Successive kings of Bohemia and presidents of Czechoslovakia have worked here. The Bohemian crown jewels are kept here. It is the largest ancient castle in the world, covering 70,000 square meters, 570 meters long, and about 130 meters wide on average. The complex consists of large palaces and ornate churches, as well as Golden Lane where Kafka lived.

Ticket types and coverage:

Circuit A: Castle history, castle guard presentation, Castle Gallery, Rosenberg Palace – CZK 300 / CZK 200 (concession)

Circuit B: St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane – CZK 450 / CZK 300

Circuit C: St. Vitus Cathedral South Tower – Observation Tower – CZK 200 / CZK 150

Most tourists choose Circuit B. Tickets can be purchased online to avoid queues; concessions for visitors 65+.

Entering the castle from the right side of the map, the main sights are the four light-blue circular areas.

It was very windy today. My daughter joked: “We came to Prague Castle to be princesses, but instead everyone became a crazy woman!” Haha! The picture above shows a cafe.

St. Vitus Cathedral (Katedrála sv. Víta) – An early Romanesque rotunda built in 925 by Duke Wenceslas I of Bohemia. Expanded into a Romanesque basilica in 1060. In 1344, Charles IV ordered the construction of a Gothic cathedral on the same site, which was completed only in the early 20th century. The stained glass windows replaced in the 20th century are works by Alfons Mucha.

St. Vitus Cathedral is the cathedral. The two spires rise 97 meters. To enter, scan the barcode on your ticket.

Inside, the first thing you see is beautiful stained glass, depicting stories of saints. The arcade pillars feature lifelike carvings of saints and bishops of Prague. The Last Judgment stained glass, magnificent Gothic architecture.

Tomb of St. John of Nepomuk (Sv. Jan Nepomucký) – The saint depicted in the statue with five stars on Charles Bridge. He was thrown into the river after refusing to reveal the queen’s confession to the king; his tongue was cut off. The silver tomb concept uses twenty thousand tons of silver, with angels pulling back a deep red curtain representing pulling St. John from the river. On the tomb, an angel holds a shield with the saint’s tongue.

Trinity stained glass window depicting the Father, Son, and Holy Spirit.

Old Royal Palace (Starý královský palác) – Next to the cathedral is the Third Courtyard and the Old Royal Palace, which has been the residence of Bohemian kings since the 12th century. Major state events like presidential elections and coronation ceremonies are held here. The architecture combines Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance styles. The main highlight is the Vladislav Hall, once the largest hall in Europe, with a beautifully vaulted ceiling. Photography is not allowed inside. From the balcony you can overlook Prague’s skyline.

[Entrance is on the left of the photo; no photography inside; costs CZK 50 to take pictures.]

St. George’s Basilica (Bazilika sv. Jiří) – The oldest church within Prague Castle. Founded by Prince Vratislaus I of Bohemia in 920, with a Benedictine convent of St. George added in 973. Rebuilt after a fire in 1142. Its Baroque facade dates from the late 17th century. The Gothic chapel of St. Ludmila contains the tomb of the saint. Vratislaus and Boleslaus II are also buried here.

Golden Lane (Zlatá ulička) – A protected medieval lane. The name comes from 16th-century alchemists who supposedly tried to create gold here. The street is charmingly cute with fairytale facades, pastel colors, small doors and windows, low roofs, and many chimneys. (Entrance fee required.) It now has galleries, shops, and exhibitions, including a 14th-century heraldic exhibition. The famous Czech Jewish writer Franz Kafka rented apartment No. 22 for two years because of the quiet environment for writing.

[Golden Lane is not on the main path; follow signs.]

The narrow alley was crowded. It started drizzling, so we quickly walked back. Upon exiting the castle gate, on the right there is a small observation platform belonging to a tiny cafe. We had coffee and enjoyed the view while waiting for the rain to ease.

After visiting Prague Castle, it was almost 2:00 PM. We had lunch at Restaurant V Kolkovně near the Old Town Square. The bar is on the ground floor; dining is in the basement. We ordered the local signature pork knuckle (huge), Caesar salad, and potato soup (tasted terrible).

On the way back to the hotel, we saw the famous Prague dessert ice cream (Angelato). The flavors change slightly daily: strawberry, raspberry, blackcurrant, apple, pear, plum, apricot, cherry, mango – fruits popular in European gelaterias. Angelato’s signature is pistachio.

Today was rainy again. We had a reservation at 8:30 AM for breakfast at a famous Prague restaurant.

Café Imperial – One of the world’s ten most beautiful cafes, located in the same building as the Imperial Hotel, built between 1913 and 1914. The cafe is decorated with colorful tiles and mosaic ceilings featuring floral and animal motifs, blending cultural arts from many regions.

[Reservation required online; dining time maximum 2 hours.]

Today we travel from Prague to Český Krumlov (often called CK town). You can take the “REGIOJET” bus (Student Agency). Purchase tickets on their official website and select seats in advance. It’s like a long-distance bus; journey takes about 2.5 hours. Boarding point in Prague is “Praha, Na Knížecí” bus station.

Because of rain, we took a taxi to the bus station. If taking the metro: take the yellow line (B) direction Zličín, get off at Anděl station, then go up the escalator on the right, pass the small kiosk, go straight. On the left you will see the yellow sign of Student Agency; turn left up the stairs.

The bus has free Wi-Fi and a toilet. It stops at České Budějovice (CB town), Český Krumlov, SA (CK town), and Český Krumlov, AN (main bus station). Most passengers are tourists going to CK, so they get off at the main station.

Český Krumlov (German: Krumau an der Moldau) – Formerly called Krumau, meaning “uneven meadow” in German. The name comes from the German for “bent meadow,” referring to the S-shaped bend of the Vltava River. The town has about 14,100 inhabitants, located in the South Bohemian Region. It is the most beautiful medieval town in the Czech Republic. The old town center is largely preserved since medieval times and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We arrived around 3:00 PM. After getting off, we walked up the small hill opposite the station. Though the sky was gloomy, the scenery was breathtaking. We could see the Castle Tower (Zámecká věž); heading toward it, it took another 10 minutes to enter the old town.

[The roads in CK are all cobblestone, very painful to drag luggage.]

CK old town attractions: Town Square, Church of St. Vitus, cultural events, browsing shops and galleries, tasting Czech traditional food.

CK castle area attractions: Moat Bears, Castle Tower (Zámecká věž), Cloak Bridge (Plášťový most), excellent viewpoint overlooking CK town, Castle Garden.

If you need to exchange money in CK, the best rate is at “N. 59,” but not as good as Prague. To go from old town to castle district, cross the bridge and walk along Latrán Street.

Our apartment was in the old town, very beautiful with a retro palace atmosphere – the most satisfying accommodation of this Central Europe trip. Though dragging luggage up and down slopes was tiring, seeing the interior made it all worthwhile.

Pension Nostalgie – Masná 137, Český Krumlov, 38101

Opening the window, we could see the town’s famous Castle Tower and St. Vitus Church.

After settling in, we strolled around. [Our accommodation is in the house at the bottom of the slope.]

Town Square (Náměstí Svornosti) – The commercial and administrative center of Český Krumlov, with a tourist information center and a plague column (Kašna a morový sloup). The top of the column features the Virgin Mary, surrounded by eight patron saints, commemorating the end of the Black Death. The original column was completed in 1714.

Dinner was at an Asian restaurant run by Vietnamese.

No matter where you go in the town, you can see the Castle Tower.

Vltava River (also known as Moldau) – The longest river in the Czech Republic.

In the morning, the sky was still gray. We left the old town and headed to the northeast “Castle District.” Latrán is one of the busiest streets in CK, the main street of the castle district, with aristocratic paintings on building facades: “House of Alchemy,” “House of the Painter,” “Spojovací chodba” (connecting corridor), etc.

Castle District – Divided into the upper castle (where the palace is) and the lower castle (political and military center). The castle was originally a 13th-century fortress built on a hill, bought and turned into a castle by a wealthy family in the 14th century, and became state property in 1948.

Castle Tower (Zámecká věž) – With 147 steps, it is the tallest building in Český Krumlov, standing on the castle hill. Built before the 13th century, the lower two floors are Gothic, the third floor and above are Renaissance. The frescoes on the tower were painted using the trompe-l’œil technique (illusion painting) starting in the 16th century to create a three-dimensional effect.

[Enter through the first castle gate – the Red Gate (Červená brána), a red arched gate, to reach the courtyard in front of the Castle Tower.]

Tickets for the Castle Tower are sold on the second floor near the souvenir shop. You can also buy tickets for the castle guided tour. After buying, scan your ticket at the passage and start climbing. A ticket costs CZK 50, one-time entry. Due to bad weather, we did not go up.

Český Krumlov Castle (Státní hrad a zámek) – Built around 1250 by the Lords of Krumau. After the Krumau family declined in 1302, the estate was bought by the Rosenberg family (Rožmberk), ushering in CK’s golden age – the 300-year “Red Rose” period (1302–1602). During this time, the family incorporated Italian Renaissance and Baroque decorations, giving the castle its aristocratic style. The five-petal rose coat of arms of the Rosenbergs is seen everywhere in CK.

Cloak Bridge (Mantelbrücke / Plášťový most) – A bridge crossing the moat of Český Krumlov Castle. Originally a wooden drawbridge in the 15th century, it was rebuilt in stone in 1686 as a three-tiered bridge supported by huge stone pillars. Different levels connect the castle to the fifth courtyard, the castle theater, the park, etc. The top three floors were added later. The Cloak Bridge and the castle are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

After crossing the Cloak Bridge, on the left is the enclosed “Fifth Courtyard.” The wall has 26 openings for photographing the town from unique angles; each opening offers a different perspective of the old town.

We continued to the Castle Garden (Zámecká zahrada). Walking up a small hill, we enjoyed the view over the town. Along the way, we passed a small cafe with a viewing platform. A short walk brought us to the garden, a Baroque garden built in the 17th century with an outdoor theater.

On the way back, we stopped at the viewpoint near Hotel Ruže, a popular lookout in the inner town, located in Seminární Zahrada park, opposite the hotel.

Around noon, we had to leave. The sky cleared and the clouds dispersed.

Itinerary:

1. Oct 7-8: Taoyuan Airport – Dubai Airport – Prague Airport

2. Oct 8: Prague Old Town Square

3. Oct 9: Powder Tower – Charles Bridge – Havel’s Market

4. Oct 10: Prague Castle

5. Oct 11: Café Imperial – Český Krumlov

6. Oct 12: Český Krumlov – Hallstatt

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